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If you're watching this and considering buying a Z3, bo buy one. They are actually incredibly reliable cars. All those problems are true, but none are exclusive to just the Z3. Any old car can suffer from those issues. The most important thing to look for is the rear subframe rust issue because it can easily cost you $3,000 like he said. I have a 2001 3.0i 5 Speed manual. It's not perfect (a/c doesn't work, the roof leaks in colder months and when hit with high pressure water, the bushings in the seats are worn so it kinda slides back and forth under hard braking, and I also have the 5th gear lean). But I wouldn't trade it for the world. I have 2 other cars, a 2021 Tesla Model Y and a 2019 Mazda3 and I practically DAILY the Z3 since buying it. That's how much I like it. Get em' while you can.
Yeah I fixed that seat issue on my old seats but instead got buckets seats and Al the crack isn’t bad in my trunk and I replaced my detents already as well
Hey, so if I were to buy a softtop Z3, could I buy a seperate hardtop roof. So I could install it for the winter? Thanks!
@@aaronluijten8667 If you can find one at a reasonable price, yes. Unfortunately supply and demand has driven the prices of a good hard top to up to $4,000 for a good used example. I considered it for a long time but decided to spend my $4,000 on BC Racing coilovers, an exhaust, strut tower brace, and I fixed the aforementioned broken a/c instead. If you don’t mind spending the coin for a hardtop, I think it’s a great investment. Maybe next year I’ll look into one lol. But for now I just care for the one that I have.
@@aaronluijten8667 yes
@@KyleGreenSpeed3 I just bought a winter beater for $1,600. To hell with the hardtop, I’m just gonna put the whole car away inside my garage lol
I’ve not had any of those problems. 1998 Z3, 117,000 miles. I’ve owned it 23 years.
Didn’t even know the z3 had the same engine as my e36! I been daily driving my e36 for over 5 years and it’s been amazing!!
pretty much all of the problems here are common with older cars in general. slow windows, risky cooling systems, strut tower buckling, ect... my honda had a stuck thermostat and bad window motors when i bought it to. getting your rear subframe reinforced and a strut bar for the front struts will not only make it more durable but it'll handle better as well. because its a convertible/hardtop the over all structural integrity of the car is reduced because there are no roof pillars aside from the windshield which can cause the car to not handle so well. thats why when i eventually buy one of these cars im not going to cheap out on chassis stiffening like half cages and subframe reinforcement. thats way more important then coilovers or a loose shifter imo. it'll make the car feel more solid and it will be safer to.
that mazda cold start tho 😫
The window motor doesn’t get slower you need to lube the tracks. Trust me I replaced my whole door cuz it wasn’t fixable And one the new door all I have to do is lube it and it fixes it right away
Bet I’ll try that
@@KyleGreenSpeed3 yeah just take the weather stripping off the door and have the window rolled up. you could even take the window out but you shouldn’t need to to get to the tracks and the rollers
lube with what?
I had all those issues 🤣. except for the strut tower
If it's rubber, then you can lube with silicone grease.
I daily a 1997 1.9L Z3 with 225k miles. Turns right on. Just buy it!!
Heyy, what's your rear tire and wheel setup? I'm coming from the Honda world, so I must learn RWD tire and wheel setups 😎
What’s peculiar about the shift pins is it only affected cars starting in ~99 because of the MTF-LT-1 Fluid BMW specified destroyed the teflon coating on the pins. I have a 97 E36 w the ZF and it shifts smooth as buttah! The E36 specified and I only use ZF Lifeguard 5 ATF. Thats also what I will use on my M Coupe after I do the shift pin replacement.
I already replaced them anyways when I did my clutch job. Unfortunately I now have to replace my input shaft bearing as it’s making a loud sound idling and clutch releasing shakes the car and makes sounds in 5th gear. But I do want to replace the tranny fluid in it when I take it off so only use lifeguard atf fluid? I know it says to use atf
Water sealing from softtop. Slow window up and down. Cooling system. Thermostat replace? Water pump? … fan clutch replace or else it will mess up the radiator… shock mount and subframe buckling metal plate. In front. Subframe in boot rust.
Bruh I already know and fixed. It’s a video
My fuel gage is stuck on empty and the inside "dinging" stays on even with the key out of it. I have a 2002 Z3, very low miles as I rarely drive it.
The frame buckles and stuff but other than that you're fine 😂
Sickkkk that’s gonna suck when I LS swap it😂
First Gen/ 1996 has and issue (Specifically a manual gearbox problem) but the shifting and Brake systems being co-dependent has caused me headache. Can’t shift sometimes when idling in neutral. Also, has no one mentioned the ignition tumbler failing? Your key will just continue to turn in the ignition module. Keep a spare bobby pin handy until you actually replace it. Other than these gremlins, YES- they are incredibly fun cars to drive and I’ve had 2. Lighter than a 350Z, but you’re going to have a hard time breaking the rear tires loose with a 1.9 - Keep it sideways!!
Haha yeah I have a 2.8 whenever I get enough money down the road ima put a ls in it
How much does it cost to replace the ignition tumbler?
I got bc racing with the gold spring forgot what the springs are called but it’s the upgraded spring. It’s night and day also at first I have a after market rear sway bar and it was hanging from one side, it broke so I had to have it re welded and moved it to the looser setting and I added a front sway bar. It feels like a track car now
Yeah I’m getting bc racing with custom spring rates
@@KyleGreenSpeed3 swift springs ?
@@thedayhayfilms nah just stiffer custom springs probably 10k in front and 12k in rear
what seats do u have in there??
Did you fixed the input shaft bearing issue ? I have the same problem (my Z3 shakes a lot when im releasing the clutch at low revs)
Exact issue I have. Also it should make a sound at idle too
@KyleGreenSpeed3 okay, I will check the sound at idle. Mine is a little 1.8L 115hp
@@tintin2815 if the sound stops when pushing in clutch then comes back when idling with clutch released it’s input shaft bearing and usually u want to install another transmission rather than fixing it. It’s inside the tranny and with it being blessed up it could already be ruining other components in the tranny
Hey mate, what are those for seats? Do you mind to tell us? Thanks!
I made a video on installing the seats. Just scroll down and find it and everything’s in description
We have one that overheated now it won't start back, any idea of what to do
How long did you overheat the car
Hey cool video, where can I find that brace?
For the shock mounts?
@@KyleGreenSpeed3 yes.
@@keltechindustries20901 pretty sure on turnermotorsport.com or fcpeuro.com
What seats are those? I am looking to get better seats for auto cross
They are nrg 208 and sparco sprint seats
hey man should i buy it? please suggest
If you buy it from someone that’s fine maintenance hell yea lol
where did you get your hardtop
from a seller on offerup
"pretty worse"... LOL.
Ay don’t make fun of my speech impediment lol