3 Different Types Of Suits | Off The Rack, Made To Measure, Bespoke
Explore the made to measure suits in the He Spoke Style Shop: hespokestyle.com/shop/
When it comes to men's suits, you have a few different options--off the rack, made to measure (or custom), and bespoke. In this video, I explain each different type of suit, go over the pros and cons, show you an example of an off the rack, made to measure, and bespoke suit from my own closet, and give you advice on what type of suit could be the best fit for you.
00:48 - Off The Rack explained
02:30 - Made To Measure explained
04:10 - Bespoke explained
06:11 - Off The Rack example
07:35 - Made To Measure example
08:33 - Bespoke example
Here are the suits I'm wearing:
OFF THE RACK
▪ Z Zegna Suit (old, similar) → shopstyle.it/l/3HzT
▪ Michael Andrews Bespoke Shirt → hespokestyle.com/product/ligh...
▪ Brooks Brothers Tie → shopstyle.it/l/3HzY
▪ IWC Ingenieur → shopstyle.it/l/3Hz2
▪ Paul Evans Shoes → shopstyle.it/l/3Hz5
MADE TO MEASURE
▪ QG Custom Suit → hespk.st/1hW26cT
▪ Al Bazar Shirt (similar) → shopstyle.it/l/3HzF
▪ Gitman Vintage Tie (similar) → shopstyle.it/l/3HrM
▪ Drake's Pocket Square → shopstyle.it/l/3HzA
▪ Enzo Bonafe Shoes (similar) → shopstyle.it/l/3HzN
BESPOKE
▪ Edward Sexton Suit → bit.ly/2zY2eGZ
▪ Edward Sexton Shirt → bit.ly/2HLpoWj
▪ Drake's Tie (old, similar) → shopstyle.it/l/3Hzw
▪ Brooks Brothers Cuff Links → shopstyle.it/l/3Hzk
▪ Allen Edmonds Shoes → shopstyle.it/l/3Hzs
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#suits #bespoke #custom
The bespoke suit, commonly referred to as "Tailor made" back in the day, fully shows why they are the cream of the crop. The suit is beautiful..
Actually, a bespoke suit should be not only tailor made, but the entire suit should be made from the same bolt of cloth so there's no differentiation between the separate parts.
@@quietcritic7784 makes sense, no wonder the tailor would always pull out that huge roll of fabric for the complete suit.
I must be getting old ( 44) because this stuff is really fascinating to me now. I really don't think I had the confidence ( or money) to try and pull this off as a younger man, but REALLY want to try and express myself as a more mature gentleman with this kind of statement. Great content.
Hope you went for it brother
Don’t worry man I’m 16 and into this stuff because I need to dress up for hockey
Don't worry about age, I'm interested at 17 years old. Different things interest us at different ages
Some of us take longer or a different route to the same destination! But celebrate arriving there!
I am 15,so age it's not the thing
As my dad's career advanced he found 'his' tailor and started ordering bespoke suits. His 'power suits' (he'd wear to huge conferences, important meetings or if he needed to play mind games with other attendees lol) made me look at him in awe because it was so beautifully made (vs the normal suits he wore to the office) and made him look like he was a force to be reckoned with.
Daddy Nomad sounds like a real Legend More power to your pops
Draco Malfoy, is that you??
1st suit: Wow! It looks real cool. Maybe no need for the fancier ones. 2nd suit: Hmm. I can see the differences and why mtm is worth it. It looks very stylish yet casual at the same time. Quality. 3rd suit: Now that's a suit! Lapels, the buttons, the accessories they all merge into this gorgeous look. Wow! You get what you pay for, I guess. :)
The bespoke suit looks incredible. Drapes really well on you without any kind of pulls or areas that seem to be too tight. Made to measure is a great choice as well like you've mentioned the fabric pattern is great and would be hard (if at all possible) to find off the rack. Zegna suit looks fine, I've noticed the higher end suit makers tend to have better off the rack options. Thank you for the video as always great content!
Appreciate the comment!
@@hespokestyle @ both 9:15 & 9:26 you can clearly see that the shoulder is too narrow there by making the sleeve too tight. Where does "Drapes really well" come in?
That made to measure suit is the bomb!!! Even the tie. They work really well with each other. I've been looking at brown/camel for my next suit or jacket and your suit just reinforced what I need.
Thank you! I wasn't even looking at suits or anything, but KZhead nailed the recommendation and now I'm a subscriber. I am all in on bespoke and learning more about studying my local market (when all of this blows over).
I started getting make suits made and tailored for me and fell in love with it. You have to save up for it but in the end it’s totally worth it. Great tips!
The made to measure suit is a brilliant fabric I adore it completely, I'm a bespoke tailoring student in London and am working on making a waistcoat in a very similar fabric style! The Sexton suit is absolutely classic and couldn't find fault in it ever, my only personal gripe is that the fastening buttons looked a tad too high for my taste but like you said the jacket itself is shorter for personal taste and that's the beauty of Bespoke, it's all personal and down to our own tastes! Absolutely brilliant video!
I love this video!! It is very informative! Best style channel !!! Thank you! Hope all is well! Hello from Atlanta.
This comparison is really amazing. Working up to the bespoke suit from the bottom in this way makes you keenly aware of the actual value. I didn't even know a suit was capable of looking that good.
New subscriber here, what a great video! My main take away from this as someone who's a little budget conscious is to not be afraid of off the rack but just make sure you go for the best quality you can afford. That off the rack suit you showed here was amazing and definitely looked to me like it was made to measure. And that's a great tip re the shoulder fitting, I'll remember that next time I buy a suit.
Whether off-the-rack is good or not really depends on your body shape. I happen to have a quite regular body shape, so most off-the-rack stuff fits me very well. Though for some reason my arms seem to be short because I very often have to have the sleeves made shorter.
Same. I get pretty darn lucky with OTR as well.
Same! I have very average measurements and many off-the-rack suits fit me well. The only thing that absolutely has to fit are shoulders. If shoulders are good, the rest will be good too. Cuffs, sleeves, drop adjustment - that's just basic stuff. A pinched waist sometimes helps and it's a bit trickier.
The most interesting thing about this video, for me, was the clear difference in fitting each suit showed. You can really see the improvements at each stage. The shoulders and lapels of the bespoke are superb! The best suit I had was a Canali I got from eBay which only cost £40. It was a single breasted navy blue which I was very lucky to have fit me very well. I always got admiring looks and one girl actually walked into a door lol. She wasn’t hurt but she made me feel ten feet tall. I put on a few pounds and so I gave the suit, with a tear in my eye, to a charity shop. I hope the gent who got it enjoys it as much as I did.
Thanks for this. Great info, and your delivery is easy to watch.
Thank you so much for your unbiased and professional presentation about choosing men suite, best so far!!
Great video, Brian. Best one I’ve seen covering this topic. Owning examples of all three, I cannot agree more with your advice.
Thanks so much! This one's been a long time coming.
Nice video.My first two suits are Off the Rack and I'm really looking forward for my first custom one,hopefully soon.Keep up the good work!
Many thanks, George! Good luck to you!
Great resume of RTW, made to measure and bespoke. And also liked the fact that you mentioned the house style and that each tailor has a certain style in regards to shoulders, chest, padding, canvas and the overall style and looks. I'll also add that bespoke is a living suit and that the last fitting is also possible after 1-3 times of wearing the suit/ jacket, because of the movements and the heat of the body it'll arrange itself slightly different from the times you were fitting it in front of the mirror with the tailor. Keep up the good work, best regards.
Watched some of your videos and it is possible to learn a lot about quality and measurement. Thank you for sharing your knowledge 👏👏👏
I concur with your recommendations. I work at a suit store and just got my first ever made-to-measure DB suit made from Holland and Sherry cloth, and I can say it is far better than the off-the-rack product I sell.
Thanks so much for the comment. Holland and Sherry cloth is wonderful.
I really appreciate the great information and inspiration! I’m a pastor so I wear suits a lot and share your taste! I watch your KZhead channel regularly and today we walked by a window with suits displayed. My 3 year old grandson said He Spoke Style papa! Is Brian there? I thought it was hilarious but it’s never too early to develop a style! Maybe do one on preschool style? Lol Thanks for the good work! Ed Lassley
I love the window pane suit, looks really classy!
I followed your advice and got a suit and several jackets from The Knot Standard. For the most part I had a very good experience and I'm going to try them for shirts.
Love your Chanel, good taste, very clean and very knowledgeable. Thank you for your work.
Thanks so much, Carlos. Appreciate the support.
The made to measure one is my favorite definitely between these three.
That is up to personal taste. You can choose your own fabric and style but the experience and the fit will never be as good, costs a lot more as well. Like he said, if you can afford it, you'll never regret it.
I’m interested in suits and new to this so this video really open my eyes on the difference. The bespoke looks absolutely beautiful beautiful compared to the of the rack. Lovely video 👌🏾
Appreciate your useful advisory for men suit. Dress for the occasion. Your presentation is so comprehensive from Off The Rack, Made To Measure and Bespoke. Indeed, fabric quality and body fitness really count, even it's from OTR at a budget as a work suit in the office with the keyboard. Thank you
Great video Brian! Actually I like that off the rack suit very much. It looks great. But ofc the other 2 are made for you so they fit very well. Cheers!
Thanks, as always, for the comment.
I agree. I like the style and fit of the off the rack suit most. The second two definitely looked more unique and fit great
That bespoke suit actually took my breath away when it appeared on screen.
Ah, thanks! You're very kind. It's super special.
The bespoke is legit.
rip
That's why pay the high prices. Bespoke is just amazing.
Although he should have shown the rear of the suit to see how short the jacket is from the back.
Great video and very informative. It's simple and to the point. Good job.
Brilliant commentary, a valuable resource!
Nice to see someone with actually a correct trouser length as you have on the Sexton bespoke, and not having them flapping around in the breeze at ankle level !!
Yeah, I couldn't do a Sexton suit and not get the Sexton look.
Excellent video! Great advice on the importance of getting the shoulder sizing correct. Nice clarification of the differences between Made to Measure and Bespoke suits/clothing. I think all of your suits look great on you. Having said that, I can immediately see the quality of your Made to Measure suit. Love the double breasted Bespoke suit! It’s beautiful. That suit will never go out of style and will last a lifetime. I wasn’t aware until recently that a 3 piece suit should be a staple in every man’s wardrobe. I agree with your comment about trying to avoid Off the Rack, if at all possible. I went to Macy’s recently and purchased one of their better grade suits, which I feel comfortable fit me fairly well, especially in the shoulders. Of course, I needed a tailor to assist with fittings. Much to my surprise Macy’s (Chicago, large suburban store), has no tailor! I felt like I was literally buying the suit ‘off the rack’ and expected to just roll up the legs, tug at the waist and strut out of the store in my new suit. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge/expertise and advice on options to consider when purchasing a suit.
Ed, thank you for taking the time for such a wonderful comment. Appreciate it very much. Cheers.
Great, helpful video. The folds on trousers are actually amazing and give a hard-to-ignore look.
Thanks, Zeeshan!
@@hespokestyle welcome buddy. The last time these cuffs were in vogue was when trousers were loose fitting, but with this slim trim shape, the trouser-cuffs are giving much needed fall and packing around ankles. I am getting my next suit on this pattern 😁. Thanks again.
Excellent video! Thanks for showing the differences, Brian.
You're very welcome, sir.
I did not search for this, but I did not know I needed this
Great video Brian!
40 Over Fashion many thanks, John!!
An excellent video Brian, keep up the good work!
Thanks so much Scott!
all i have got is Bespoke suits in my wardrobe, you're right that's much satisfying, i choose my style according to fabric and color.
Sharp looks! I had a bespoke suit made when I had little knowledge about clothes a couple years back and thankfully my tailor made some decisions for me that I still enjoy to this day. It's a navy 3-on-2 roll single breasted suit with spalla camicia shoulders, with the pants having belt loops and cuffed bottoms. As a bigger guy I have had okay experiences with RTW, but usually it came down to either the shoulders being too big or my belly pulling on the buttons. Normally I had no choice and had to go with larger jackets and get them tapered as much as possible. I tried MTO once when I was much larger and it was quite decent. I didn't get to choose too many options but the size was quite good (though I suppise if I took a look at the fit now, I would be able to find a lot of issues). So in all, I agree that bespoke will fit you best and I think you will walk out with something you will like regardless of the amount of knowledge you have. With MTO and RTW, I think the buyer has to be vigilant as to know what fits and works best themselves, in order to end up with a satisfying product. Anyway thanks to all who read this long comment, hope you have a nice day!
That's great! Thanks so much for sharing your experiences. Appreciate that very much.
Brian you and OG are the only youtubers that actually know what they are talking about. Very inspiring
Very kind of you to say. Thanks so much.
So happy to have discovered your channel.
Same! Glad to have you!
The second suit is gorgeous. Great video.
Great video! I always go with OTR suit and have it tailored to my needs.
Cheers. Many thanks for the support.
The Edward Saxton shirt looks great as well,, Happy Thursday
Many thanks, Brent!
Nice video! I really love your channel! I would be also interested in a video about some criteria of how to know if a suit fits. Like as you mentioned for off the rack suits most important is that the shoulders fit. A video would be great which covers how to see if the shoulders fit, how tight should be the buttons and so on.
Great video. Very educative. Thank you.
Oh man the bespoke suit words can't explain it beautiful
You're very kind, Ernest.
@@hespokestyle and you are very well-dressed brother
Love the bespoke. For me as a short man m2m has been a go to for years. Don't be shy on sharing the cost with us. People need to know value costs, and to save appropriately. The double breasted rocks, shoulders are impeccable.
I have to correct you on one point. There are no suits or any garments other than some seamless knits that are “machine made” and certainly no suit that is such. Almost everything we all wear was made in a factory, mostly in Asia, sewn piece by piece by people on a production line of some type. Most fabrics are laser cut on cutting tables but no “cut and sew” garment is made by a machine. I’ve been in apparel plants all over the world from my time in the fashion business and the key difference here is customization vs made to a uniform pattern. Thank you for your content - it’s enjoyable!
great video on a familiar topic - well done!
Great video. I own both off the rack and MTM suits. MTM suits are worth the money and you can customize most of the details with certain programs. The question becomes, with bespoke suits generally costing triple MTM suits, are they really 3x better? My answer is no. I have MTM suits that fit me like a glove. As you mentioned in your video, if budget allows and one cares for craftsmanship then a bespoke suit could be a good option. Personally, I would prefer 3 nice well fitting MTM suits for the price of one bespoke suit.
That's a great way to go!
Totally agree spot on.
Well said.
FACTZ I HAVE DONE THIS VERY THING. BUT I DO PLAN ON GETTING 1 FROM MY LOCAL TAILOR. HE HAS BEEN IN. BUSINESS FOR OVER 50 YEARS. SUITS RUN 800 PLUS. I PURCHASED 3 MTM FOR 847 TOATAL AFTER TAX
With some events... no second chances are possible. Opportunity cost runs high, bespoke becomes a: "I wish I thought about that".
That Edward Sexton suit is excellent. Absolutely beautiful navy colour, and lapels just the right width and shape for a powerful line. Nothing beats a big lapel - adds a lot of masculinity to a suit, and dignified masculinity is what menswear is all about.
Yes! I been looking for a video like this Thsnks!🙏
Thanks for going straight to the point!
This is amazing content. You need to make a video about types of shoes and your personal collection 👞👞
Good idea.
Damn all of the suits that you wear was all damn sharp!
You're very kind. Thanks for the comment.
As a massive Classic Menswear Fashion fan, I found this video incredibly interesting and informative. Keep up the Good Work Brian and stay tailored. Also as the owner of a Bespoke Tailored Suit, I can safely say that there's nothing quite like a garment that both looks incredibly elegant and timeless as well as being able to fit you perfectly in every way.
i just watched the intro and subbed seems like a fine channel to watch
wow its amazing to actually see how different MTM was from off the rack....im sure i will probably never own bespoke but MTM looks incredible...
Yes, you have more control and the fit will be much better.
If you ever in Thailand Chiang Rai Suit Centre Unlce there has been making Suit for 50 years and Price is by the fabric you choose and damn his good 200 US $ roughly
Man, your Bespoke suit is unbelievable. Gorgeous! Love those shoulders. WOW
Ordered myself a HUGO BOSS suit today for Homecoming, really excited to get into this kind of dressing! Great Content!
Hope you enjoy it! When you're ready for a custom suit, please consider our service: hespokestyle.com/shop/
I grew up in India and bespoke was the only option until early to mid 90s but they were regarded inferior to off- the-rack suits because OTR were expensive and were a status symbol. It was the other way around. Now, there are very few tailor shops and fashion houses left in India and every time I visit India, I bring a few bespoke suits with me. Bespoke are the best. You get a feel when you go for a rough trial and can alter anything that you don’t like.
Is it okay to wear a suit jacket unbuttoned?
They're all very nice, especially the houndstooth. I'd say an off-rack suit is fine for work. Good suit for a sales person, someone working at the office. The other suits are for more special or official occasions.
Thanks for the comment.
That last suit was excruciatingly excellent...impeccable. A substantial perforated, cap toe Balmoral would in my view have knocked the look out of the ballpark. The shoulders were excellent.
Many thanks, Weha. Sexton is definitely a look. I had my wedding dinner jacket done by him as well.
I love this channel already. I love your mastery on these matters. I will invest in some this year. Man got to dress properly.
Much appreciated!
When you walked out in the Edward Sexton, I actually laughed out loud. I could not control my emotions at how insane the suit was. My goal is to be able to get an Edward Sexton myself one day.
I really like that he didn’t use a poorly fitted off the rack suit to try and exaggerate the point. 3 great looking suits and you can see that they are 3 distinct levels.
Great content and great suits! Keep up the great work!
Many thanks, Marlon!
Nice roundup!
Thank you, for taking the time to explain and show the options in suits! Looking to get my husband a made to measure suit. I’m about to look through your content about Ties. Thanks again! Oh yea, “Every girls’, crazy about a sharp dressed man”. And can I say, you looked very sharp in your suits😛.
Very kind of you to say, Gladys.
What, if any, alterations did you have done to suit #1? It fits you well 👌🏼
Many thanks, Frank! Just hemming the pants.
You, sir, know how to be a real gentleman. The manner you spoke, the detail you expounded upon, and those suits! I aspire to be as classy as much as I can but I can only purchase off the rack ones. 😅 Great video! I liked and subscribed, too. 👍🏼 👏🏼
Thank you I needed this.
Thanks for this great video! I am in the beginning of the sartorial learning curve. I noticed the slight tension of the jacket at you waist area at 7:18. I have the same issue with my (rather high end) RTW suits. Do you think it’s normal for RTW suits? Can a MTM “corrects” the issue? Thanks!
MTM can definitely correct that issue since the suit is being made for you. The issue here is that the jacket is just a little tight on me. Coupled with the higher button stance, and you see the pulling. I could definitely have it let out a bit to correct, but I've just been lazy about it.
What if we already know exactly what all three are; are we still welcome to watch? 😉 Great video Brian! Please keep up the excellent work!
Haha! You're always welcome, Ben.
Thank you for explaining this 🔥
Edward is the best cutter in London. He used to come to Nashville in the 1980s. He made me the most amazing dinner suit that one could ever imagine.
My goal in the next year is to own a fully bespoke suit from one of the tailors at Savile Row (Gieves & Hawkes, Huntsman or Dege & Skinner are favourites). Nice video👌🏻
Wonderful! Good luck!!!
I wish you luck.....
Personally, I would also very strongly recommend Maurice Sedwell. Their suits are second to none and £5,400 to start when 80-95% hand sewn, £8,100 to start when 95-99% hand sewn and £10,800 to start when 100% hand sewn. Maurice Sedwell’s bespoke shirts (also second to none) start at £750 and are 100% hand sewn only. Top prices are 10 times that of starting prices, for what it’s worth.
The best part about your bespoke suit is that you can see the imperfections. There are some points on the jacket and shoulders that aren't perfect and that's why to me that bespoke suit stands out. Those tiny execution errors during the manufacturing process aren't seen on off-the-rack suits at stores. Personally, that's why I've loved bespoke tailoring my whole life. There's nothing like seeing these details that only come from the hand of your own tailor.
Thank you Brian for the guidance.
I didn't realize I could like a person as much as you. Not talking about being poor or rich. But if I can afford it. Chapeau! Subscribed and liked. Going to watch more of your videos
Great video once again! Such quality content creators in Baltimore! Would you make a video on MTM companies that you recommend? Or companies that have nice interlinings in their suits?
Many thanks, Sebastian. I don't have a ton of experience with MTM companies, especially the online options. I'm considering setting aside some HSS money to do a side by side review of some of the biggest ones. Any in particular you'd like to see?
Have tried Suitopia with a cheep cloth, you get what you pay for. I payed full price but if you do not care to much about the cloth, they have like 25% off the price all the time. I can imagine that insted going with suitsuply for twize the price would have been worth it, and 100% wool. Then it is from $600 for a MTM. Pleas rewiev Suitsuply, that is the one I would consider in that pricerange.
@@Myrslokstok Just butting in, he made a video not too long ago: kzhead.info/sun/fZp6kciLfmZqlas/bejne.html Cheers!
@@hespokestyle I only had some shirts made via online MTM companies. This is a good and cost-effective way to get well-fitting shirts with interesting details. I went for taylorstore and hockerty to get some pin collar shirts. I'm happy with the result. There are some really cheap options too like itailor. I'm curious if they'd be worth the money for shirts. The cuts of their suits look awful even in the online customizer. Also, the customization options are too limited for me. Generally, it's very hard to find reliable reviews of MTM companies. I have a few local ones in Vienna, Austria, where I live, but I'm still reluctant to go for a custom suit. Why? Well it's a €600 - €800 investment and I have no way to tell whether the interlining will be decent, the fit ok and the details as I truly wish. It's also very confusing when you go to a company that has a good reputation but then in the ads they have in the store, the suits look uninspiring and some of the models are wearing pre-tied bowties.
that Edward Sexton is giving James Bond!!
Great video Brian. Liked the double monks.
Thanks so much. Appreciate the comment.
Great explaination!
Hey Brian could you give us the price point of each type of suit, ie, OTR, MTM, and Bespoke. The Sexton is beautiful xx
Bespoke in sweden starts at $3000 but then they are realy good. Even tough you cant try the stuff before I am very happy with my MTM shirts for $150. You usually wear them a lot because they are like 50% moore expencive but 25% better.
Hi! Love this video, big fan of the channel. I had a question about the bespoke process with Edward Sexton. Namely, how exactly did you manage getting to Saville Row for the measurement and multiple fittings? Did you fly back and forth each time, or was it something like taking a quick trip to get measured and a longer trip during which time you had four fittings? Or was there a US service? I’ve always wondered how folks here in the US get foreign-tailored suits
Most tailors make trunk show tours. Dominic from Edward Sexton comes to the NYC a few times a year.
He Spoke Style much appreciated! That makes sense, but I never realized they were so common! Thanks a lot!
side adjusters on the trousers, I'm stealing that one! better than the hidden suspender buttons but probably get both just in case...just .no more belt loops! thanks for calling out the 3 roll 2, always wanted to know the official terminology on that one...great info, keep it coming!!!
Thank you very much ,very cleared explanation!
The bespoke DB suit really stood out from the rest. That one is definitely an investment.
Unique details you can't get either OTR or MTM.
Any suggestions you have for made to order Brands? Thoughts on Tom James? Great video.
No experience with Tom James. I'm partial to Michael Andrews Bespoke, but they don't offer a MTM garment...yet!
Excellent Content 👏🏾
Great video 💝
Hi. Ain’t There an issue with the shoulders of the bespoke one? :-/ Especially the right shoulder
Had a bespoke suit for me 3 years ago, hardly put it on 4 times at all, given the price, afraid to wear it often, lol, but, man, bespoke is literally the second skin.
Oh, man, you should wear it more! A suit like that needs it. It will start to fit your body even better.
@@hespokestyle I bought it kind of a special occasion suit, and to be honest, so afraid that such a huge investment can be easily ruined if I wear it to often. I do understand on one side that it weighs like a dead weight if I do not wear it, and as I put on some weight, I won't be able to wear it some day, but on the other side, am afraid to wear it out of the fear to ruin it.
Very insightful video.thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You're very welcome. Thanks so much for the comment.