Installing Plywood Deck on Harbor Freight Utility Trailer
Join Steph as she adds a plywood bed and back end rail to the utility trailer!
For materials and written post visit: bit.ly/plybed
Full Trailer Assembly Playlist: • Playlist
This video is professionally closed captioned.
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FYI: We are not professionals, and we don’t claim to be. This is what we found worked for our project. Yours may need a little different approach. Safety first!
While counter sinking looks nice. You really need some washers on there. As that wood ages and things move around the deck of the trailer will end up popping over those bolts.
Nothing better than doing a project like this with your aging parents, memories and love❤❤.
You guys did a great job on the finishing of this trailer! Smart to let the board dry before painting it. Keep making these clear, concise and informative videos! Thanks!
Thanks! Will do!
HUGE THANKS for the suggestion of cutting a pencil down to fit inside the frame and mark the bolt holes from underneath... After reading their instructions I thought there HAS to be a better way. I searched "HF trailer deck install" and your video was the first one that came up. It was super easy!
That's great! So glad it was helpful!
Incredible. Beautiful, smart and sound methadology. Love seeing women who aren't afraid to roll up their sleeves, bonus points when they do it better than most men would. Well done.
So great to see that other female doing construction, assembling & using tools. Wonderful to c that Mom & Dad r there to help also. 👏🏽👍🏽
Couple tips from mine: I use heavy-duty screw eyes to lock the picket boards into the holders - they can be tightened or removed with a large screwdriver or pliers handle, then these eyes become tie-down attach points for your safety straps too. I took the axle and wheels to a service station and had the garage mechanic check and repack the wheel bearings the right way, brought the components back home and continued assembly. Not expensive and gave me peace of mind. Pickup truck bed-liner paint is great to weatherproof and ruggedized the plywood. Paint or coat the plywood before install. Instead of having to crawl under the trailer and undo/redo bolts for folding and un-folding, I have a threaded steel rod that passes thru the sides of the trailer at those square carriage bolt holes, and screws down tight with wing nuts and/ or locknuts. You can upgrade the casters to larger ones that roll easier and better, but may need to loosen one bolt on each side to help clearance when folding. No time in the vids was spent on installing the wiring harness. It's not complicated, but do it early in the assembly process for best/easiest access, and keep some slack in the wires between the folding sections, or you'll wear out or snap or pinch the wires when you fold and unfold the trailer. I used tubular plastic wire loom to contain and protect my wiring, and attached it all with zip ties, so the electrical system will flex without hanging down and catching against things on the road when under way. Also, spend time to scrape the paint away from the screw hole where the white ground wire attaches, for clean metal-to-metal contact, and make that connection TIGHT, or your lights will forever give you trouble. I added a couple more after-market picket pockets in key spots, so now my folding trailer doubles as a small boat-hauling trailer, by plugging in two simple carpeted bunks on the side pockets. I don't back this trailer into water, but remove the boat at water's edge for launch and recovery. The folding action lets the trailer tilt like a ramp to make this easy. After every trip, touch the wheel hubs lightly with your fingers, feel if they are hot: If very hot, you need to re-pack the grease in the bearings. Soon. PS: without much work, a carpet pad and folding tent can go on this trailer and make an easy overnight micro-camper. Be aware these trailers have lower speed limits than your car, and if you tow them a long way at 65 or 70, you will get into bad situations. They are ideal for cross-town/suburban, lower-speed use. For long interstate travel, maybe rent a u-haul.
For my HF trailer, I was at Home Depot last night picking the brain of an older clerk well-versed in wood and trailers--he was a trucker for 20 years. He said he wouldn't stain pressure-treated wood until 3-6 months of exposure to the weather, only after letting it 'cure.' He said that lag bolts are the most common method of securing wood decking to steel frames, but also said self-tapping wood/metal screws could do the job equally well, and thought the likelihood of the lag bolts 'spinning' is minor. He said Thompson's deck seal or a similarproduct with anti-UV and anti-moisture qualities is better than used motor oil, truck liner, and asphalt. He said that aluminum diamond plate sheeting is very flimsy, and would require underlying supports, and pallet rack wire shelving or steel grating (I forget official term) could work well, but are not typically galvanized and would require anti-rust primer/paint. After reading many helpful comments here, I thought I'd share this with you all.
Thanks for sharing!
You ladies, (and dad,) did a great job. Thanks for the great content.
Awesome video! I'm watching all of these to get some ideas and this is the most comprehensive. For people talking about the price, HF has 20% off coupons throughout the year--my 1720lb last week was 422$
Thanks for the video! Two suggestions: MDO (medium density overlay) plywood, which is used to make road signs, is very weather resistant, durable, and ready to be painted. Carriage bolts, in my experience, will fail over time (the square hole rounds out) and cannot be secured from above to tighten. Also, either nylon lock nuts, or using blue Locktite, will secure the nuts in place.
I've had mine for 16 years. My deck is now shot. Loved the way you did yours. I will be following this video for my replacement deck
Very nice work! Bought the same trailer used and also did some mods. They are very nice trailers for us "part time" haulers and especially for us that only have a small car to tow with.
Nice work, I just finished building my trailer
Very well done ladies. It looks very professional and solid. Better than many so called professionals (men or women)
Great job, a big well done. They make a specialized wood, self tapping screw, designed for wood floors of flat bed trucks. They are expensive but for your project maybe $35. You simply cut your plywood to fit, then seal it with primer/exterior acrylic enamel or a good exterior wood stain (Olympic was a very good choice). Snap chalk lines on your metal stringers, then every 8 to 12 inches you screw the fasteners in. The self tapping screws go right through the wood into the metal and turn into small threaded bolts. I did my 1/2 ton flat bed pick up truck in a matter of hours, by myself. The screws were the way the factory had installed the wood bed originally when new. I'm very impressed with the skills and problem solving you ladies did and a very well done.
Very nicely done. I plan on something very similar soon.
You have infinitely more patience and resolve for spending more effort for better results than I do. Wouldn't have even thought to coat the wood
Marine plywood is a great upgrade, along with applying joist tape (as used on the top of deck floor joists,)wrapped around the edges also extends decking life.
Great work! ❤️
Good work on the floor and the stake unit. I'll probably use that stake design for mine, but all around.
I purchased one over 35 years ago and it’s still on the road
Well done! Thank you.
You and your mom pardon my French are badass just for your information I built the exact same trailer for the 2x4s that are used for the railing is best to keep those brackets off and bend them around the 2x4 to ensure a tighter fit but you gals did a great job
Well done!
I just ordered the 1720lb rated trailer.I am going to put an electric winch on the front. I do small engine repair and will be able to pull dead lawn tractors,etc.on to the trailer..Can't wait to get this but I am told it is a 4-6 week wait for it to arrive at the store.Thank you for the great video!
Thanks God I found you... this is prefect prefect for my 10,5 feet inflatable boat.. ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️...
Thank you for Sharing the size 3/8 1.5 inch helpful thank you ❤
Great vid , thanks
Looks very nicely done! Do be careful with that trailer jack, I used the same one on mine and it torqued the A frame arm and twisted it over time.
Rye - O - Be. Love your videos though, used them to help build me whole trailer. You were pretty much my instruction manual.
Good practical steps. However, I should have inserted this early on but the wire included in the trailer kits is too thin (16 g or smaller) and easily wears or breaks; I’ve had no problems since replacing it with Harbor Freight’s “Replacement Trailer Wiring Kit” made of durable 14g wire.
I have this same trailer. In the back and sides I have solid plywood walls as I carry mulch and such. But instead of a bolt like you used, I would recommend using an eye bolt as you can use that as tie downs for your loads.
🎉
3000+ miles on mine. Definitely re-pack the wheel bearings with quality grease, at least yearly. Watch those fenders if doing long hauls... the brackets fail and the fenders fall off - well documented - welded mine. The stock tires are rated to about 55 mph roughly, although i never had issues at 70 :) Have since changed to 145R12 radial tires rated to 80. Nice decking!
Thanks for the tips!
Nice video😊
Nice work...I like that you used lock washers but you should have flat washers as well. The flat washer then the lock washer then bolt.
Great video. I use old motor oil to treat my wood. It’s cheap if you have some laying around.
I was concerned about side rails cutting into the 4x8 measurements too. I went with a setup I saw from youtube . This used either mdf or plywood for the sides and cutting the shape of stakes in the bottoms. Then make stakes from 2x4s ripped down to fit in the remaining space in the pockets.
Can use it as a flat bed and use the rail holders as anchors for ratchet straps. Sides are only needed if you are transporting something like bricks. But since bricks fit easily in the car one wouldn't bother bringing the trailer. One thing to note, a guy told me his was side swiped because the trailer as a flatbed is hard to see by a car adjacent on a multiple lane highway. So if you plan on going on a highway you might want to put a couple of those flexible orange fiberglass poles with flags on them.
Good idea. Thanks!
Wish I'd bought the Harbor Freight trailer when you did, they're $500-$550 now depending on weight rating. I plan on building a tear drop trailer but will weld my frame rather than use the bolts as I won't need to fold it.
I just finished the wiring on my trailer....which by thee way, I bought for about 350 and it is now $499!!!!! thanks for the tips about finishing the bed. Great job guys!!! thanks again!!
I got mine Saturday (5/29) for $499, but was able to use their 20% coupon to get $100 off! :)
it's $549 now.... 😞
A really great video!!! Could you please help me check when levered, what is the hight from the ground to the top of the surface of channel where the floor would be installed? Thank you!
Question... The corner bolts... could you not have drilled through the plywood and just have the bolt go through the wood and secure onto the frame like the others? Instead of having to drill and small indent to make it sit flush?
Lock tight the bolts or drill the nuts tap and put a set screw in to keep things tight even drilling through the nut and bolt and putting a pin through works if the nut can not turn things can not loosen up
Interesting, I bought the "heavier duty" 1720lb HF trailer recently, and the cross beams are not the same as yours. Yours are U-shaped, mine have a tiny fold back on each side, making my brand new Milwaukee power tool too big and unable to reach the carriage bolts....
If you unhook the trailer from the ball hitch the lights will go out. I use the ground just to make sure you get a good solid ground. As sometimes the ball hitch will make resistance wall it's moving and usually rusty and the bulbs can burn out with a little flashing and a Not good ground to them. It's better to always use the groundwater especially if it's included and Therefore free...😂
Best Harbor freight trailer assembly video series on KZhead, hands down! Question, it looks like you have a gap in the center (between plywood sheets). I assume it is clearance so it would fold. Do you have that clearance handy?
Thanks! All we did was cut a 4x8 sheet of plywood exactly in half. We also cut out notches on the sides for the hinge.
Is it safe to pull these on the freeway?
those carriage bolts are going to be a headache when the plywood needs replacing and they just spin in place because the woods gotten soft & wont hold them anymore.
3/4 inch thick plywood?
i got the same trailer you can add more support in the frame,
Next, I suggest you fit 'Bearing Buddies' on the wheel hubs for easier bearing greasing. ;-)
Thanks, we will check that out for sure!
Was there pre-drilled holes on the frame for the six bolts that attaches the plywood to the frame? Great video by the way.
Yes
Can Harbor Freight link to this? Wouldn’t have been able to do this without
Hello -did you have to order the bolts? Can't seem to find the 3/8 x 1 1/2 galvanized.
No, just picked them up at Home Depot.
Great video. What did you use for the stakes? Regular 2x4s? I swear, the 2x4s I'm trying to use is just a hair too wide.
We used 2x4s and yes ours were a hair too wide too. We had to cut them down a little bit with a multi-tool. kzhead.info/sun/gNFtZp19moRng2g/bejne.html
@@MotherDaughterProjectsDIY , thanks for the feedback and the sanity check.
couldn't you put the 2x6 on the outside of the Stake pockets such that you still have the FULL 4'x8' without interference?
Do you have problems with to much bounce from the stiff suspension? I use mine to carry my kayak 🛶 and it's way to bouncy for the weight of my kayak.
I haven’t had any issue with anything not staying secure, but we do use ratchet tie downs for everything so it's not going anywhere. The fenders do make noise a lot so I would assume that is from bouncing. I have seen a lot of people retro fit these trailers to hold kayaks, so maybe they are doing something in their design to help with the bounce?
Just noticed your dad's sleeve... Awesome shirt! I did a trek there when I was younger!
Awesome! We actually all went as a family a few years ago when my dad volunteered out there. We all had a lot of fun! My dad and brother were both in boy scouts, and mom and I were girl scouts! -Steph
I did not countersink my bolts because the round bolt heads make it easier to load heavy sheets of ply wood
I didn't counter sink mine either. If I plan to get sheet rock I will put a square of Harbor Freight moving blanket on the floor of the trailer so the last piece of sheet rock doesn't get indentations on it.
Any idea on where to get the Rockler drill guide? Didn’t see a part number or vendor
www.rockler.com/rockler-portable-drill-guide
What's the overall width of the trailer?
I found the links (here). Thank You! Question: With the thickness (thick) plywood you used, does the trailer still fold-flat or if you did it again would you go a little thinner on the plywood? Some KZheadrs say it doesn't fold flat with the thickness you folks used. (My trailer is on order and I am trying to prepare for it). Excellent KZhead!
It folds completely flat cause we recessed the bolt heads. We did not have issues with the thickness. I would not go thinner as I want the deck to be able to hold a lot of weight.
@@MotherDaughterProjectsDIY OK. I'm going with you folks. Thank you so much for getting back to me!
I watched another video where someone reinforced the plywood floor with 2x3" boards cut to fit inside the frame underneath.
What thickness did you use for the plywood. Manual says to use 3/4 however I have heard issues with folding.
We used 3/4". No issues with folding, just had to cut out a little notch around the hinges.
@@MotherDaughterProjectsDIY What would you say is the max thickness plywood that you could have used and still allowed the trailer to fold? Reason I'm asking is that I'm worried about 4x8 sheets being able to rest flat on the bed. It seems like the bolts on the folding hinges might sit higher than 3/4" plywood??? I'm wondering if the plywood could be furred higher to rest above the level of those two hinge bolts.
Thanks. But how do you drill a square hole for the carriage bolt?
You don't. As you tighten the nut, the carriage bolt will secure into the wood and create a square indent.
I was wondering were I can get the measuring device to check the depth of the nut?
My poor husband this his computer but it's Bonnie asking.
That's the Kreg Multi-Mark: amzn.to/2UkIPQ3
The plywood your using, is it 3/4, 3/8,1/2" what thickness?
3/4
Thank you. How thick was the plywood that you used?
3/4
@@MotherDaughterProjectsDIY thanks!
Maybe the front panel didn't fit exactly because tho manufactured holes are paired, the front and back are slightly different spacing. If the front is flipped or rotated, the holes would line up, but perhaps not as precisely as the better fit the other way.
Nice job ! I made a stake bed for mine , please be careful with pressure treated wood sawdust , even though they outlawed arsenic in the wood the "treatment" is still very toxic , always wear gloves & at least a dust mask when cutting & drilling , thanks for a great video !
Why did you say you would be using the creeper to take the bolts out every time you folded it up? Are you saying you have to take the deck off?
No, I do not take the deck off. The trailer can be folded in half for storage. There are 4 bolts that have to be removed to make this happen. We share that in this video: kzhead.info/sun/a9WQitiPaaiodas/bejne.html
I read that the trailer does not fold all the way because the 3/4” plywood interferes. Is this the case with yours?
Nope, it folds perfect. I did have to cut a notch out for the hinges, but that was it. kzhead.info/sun/a9WQitiPaaiodas/bejne.html
I ended up replacing my plywood bed with deck boards. It looks better for longer. My plywood aged quickly (the trailer stays outside in Texas)
Can you fold yours with the deck boards? I'm not sure if I'll ever fold mine, but if I ever decide I want to, wouldn't the boards be too thick?
Are you saying you use the Trex deck boards?
Wher did you buy the plywood at?
Home Depot
Is the plywood 3/4 inch thick?
yes
Is the trailer made in the us? Is it steel or aluminium?
China. Harbor Freight and Northern Tool both carry the steel. Northern Tool also has an aluminum version. Prices on them have been going up quite a bit
Rockler Drill Press Attachment $$$$ 🤑🤑🤑
How thick was the plywood?
Use 23/32"...(3/4") exterior
@@olheghtt can I just use flat screws and a countersink? or should I really use bolts
What was the size of the drill bit?
3/8" drill bit for the bolt holes.
I need to know the plywood thickness. Can you please let us know? thanks
3/4in
I don't know how those trailers are approved for the road.
wish they still sold the trailer i can't get my hands on one at all
I live in MA and they just got them back in stock. You may want to check with your local store. Also, the larger trailer can be pre-ordered.
Thanks Kardell!
I literally stalked the HF site daily for 2 months and then one day my local store had 4 in stock. I immediately drove over and they already had 2 on hold, one guy was coming from 70 miles away. I got the 3rd and the 4th was sold later that day. FWIW I got mine in May 2021 and the manufacture date was Nov 2020...
what is the ttickness of plywood?
3/4inch
Can i get away with using 1 1/4 instead of 1 1/2 bolts with 3/4 inch plywood.?
I don't think you would have enough of the bolt sticking out for the nut to attach to.
@@MotherDaughterProjectsDIY thank you.
Damn inflation I'm payin 550 this Wednesday for same trailer gonna build it out real nice
Hope its marine ply or its curtains after one season!
yes
Lock washers won’t last long on a vibrating trailer. The nuts will back off. Ask me how I know. Trailers bolts should all be nylock nuts.
Can't believe this trailer is $500 now
Why not buy a spray gun to help with the painting
girl bosses
yea...that trailer is now $549, since Harbor Freight liked to price gouge after the pandemic
$520 Now...
Trailers have gone up $200 in one year. Bummer.
I think 3/8 bolts to hold the floor on is really over kill.
Why pay 350 for a trailer? For 20 bucks you can rent Lowe’s or Home Depot’s vehicle and carry way more, safely. You can rent it and use it to haul heavy stuff like brush to the landfill. Plus who knows if your auto transmission was designed to pull a trailer., most are not. Many of us have no place to store an unsightly trailer.
You are correct, but many of us do have storage space, thus saving time in the long run of re-renting every time. It's a personal preference, why do you care?
This is one of the stupidest things i have EVER read on KZhead. Congratulations