Taig Lathe - Machining the Soft Jaws
2017 ж. 24 Там.
20 824 Рет қаралды
How to machine aluminum soft jaws on the Taig micro lathe. Also, my first youtube instructional video (well, 2nd attempt at this video). I appreciate any feedback, suggestions, and ideas for future videos - thanks!
Lathe Package: desktoplathes.com/1017-3
Cheap Metal Online: onlinemetalspartners.go2cloud....
Never thought of the steps, thanks!
Another thing you can do, since the jaws don't locate, is just snug the bolts a bit, load into chuck, clamp on something true like the reamer shaft, then finish tightening the mounting bolts. It takes a feel to tighten just enough, but with that way your as close as possible to repeatable with this setup. The jaws will locate against the almost tight bolts. If your ever remove the jaws repeat the procedure and do not mix them up. Might not even need cutting :)
Super helpful video! Any videos or pictures on how the quick change toolpost fits onto the lathe?
Great tutorial and descriptive editing
Thanks for sharing. Just purchased a Taig. This is the first task!
Very good repair my friend..i also did the same thing on my manual lathe sir👍👍👍👍👍👍🤝
I am just starting out with my TAIG lathe and this was super helpful - trued the soft jaws today. The dial indicator mounted in a spare tool holder on the Head-Stock was a great tip too! Thanks for posting this.
Appreciate the feedback, I plan to make a few more videos soon. Almost found the time, left it somewhere around here, gonna keep looking.
Totally agree! I just got a taig yesterday. I wasn't so sure of the instructions in the package, but this made it super clear, thanks.
desktoplathes open a patreon account. I am more than willing to send you 5$ a month to get a simple tutorial each week and i am sure many others would! Your explanations are at the perfect level of details for people who just start out!
Great video
Great video. This is exactly what I needed. I can't believe Taig hasn't made a video on this yet.
thanks for the feedback! let me know if you have suggestions for any other how-to videos. I'm trying to decide what to do next.
@@desktoplathes Can you do a video on how to set up and use a dial indicator?
Thanks for the detailed and clear tutorial. Much better than the single page instruction from Taig :)
Thanks! gotta love the minimalist character of Taig products, documentation is no exception :)
@@desktoplathes Yeah. Providing no manual is ...obscene when buying a machine tool.
Can't say that what I do is an improvement but I wonder if I can rely on the two screws to reset the jaws exactly there must be some clearance, so I use the two centre holes and line the jaws with short dowels, I think you will find the centre holes are .1875,
Nice video. Thinking of getting a Taig lathe and wondered how the machining of the soft jaws was done. Do you need to check that the washer is properly circular or does it make no difference as long as it is preloading each jaw? Is the registration of the jaws good enough after removal and refitting assuming you put the jaws back in the same slots of the chuck ?....and finally which is more accurate, jaws machined like this or a collet chuck adapter and ER16 collets ? Thanks Rob.
Rob Thank you! As long as the jaws can all clamp down I believe the washer just needs to be "round enough." I've not had any trouble with one being too out of round and have used a coin before as well. Registration seems good enough for removal and re-installation as I removed and re-installed when filing off the nub. However, I can't say why exactly. The only registration to speak of along the length of the soft jaw is by the two bolts and associated holes. There is a nice tight fit side to side however. If one wanted to bore them out without removing, the washer could be faced down a bit thinner and then wedged behind the soft jaws against the hard mounts, allowing for full boring and no nub to file off. One note about soft jaws... they might be off when holding stock but if you do all of your machine work in one setup, it makes no difference. However when you go to flip the part or need to turn concentric to the held surface, that's when things become critical. And in those cases, you can use a 4 jaw independent and manually dial it in each time (just takes more time). A Collet chuck adapter and ER16 collets would be more repeatable than the 3 jaw self centering but not as accurate as a 4-jaw independent when done just right. I should do a video on the 4 jaw... just need to find the time!
do you preload the washer on the jaws itself? or on the hardened metal behind the jaws
You can do either. I believe I used the jaw itself in this video which is why filing of the nub is required at the end. However the objective is to simulate the jaw positions when clamping down on a part. If they are fastened right to the hardened metal behind, there should be no difference.
I took the jaws from .003 runout to under .001, but when I removed the jaws for filing (one at a time) and replaced them the runout went back to .003, should I make more passes and try filing the jaws without removing them? Thanks and this was a great tutorial!
Yes, definitely do that. Filing the remainder without removing the soft jaw that is ideal. There isn't much of a precision registration for each soft jaw so removing and replacing can cause things to end up in a different position relative to the turning axis. If I were to redo this video I would file the jaws in place rather than removing and reinstalling. Most folks use a 4 jaw when higher precision is needed. I plan to do a video on using the independent 4 jaw soon. Thanks for the feedback!
@@desktoplathes Awesome thanks! I have a 4 jaw chuck on the way as well, but if I could get this back down to .001 it will be more than precise enough for my needs.
hi! the washer in the chuck is important do do the jaws machined?
yes! you want the jaws to be pushed out as they would be if they were clamping down on stock. The washer acts as simulated stock, ensuring the backlash in the scroll mechanism is removed.
What makes the auto feed stop when the carriage hits the depth stop?
Great question, your thumb acts as the clutch by coupling the hand wheel to the carriage. So when the depth stop is hit, there is a considerable force required to hold the hand wheel from moving relative to the carriage and so you let off the pressure knowing you've bottomed out. I might do a video some day just on the power feed as I find it to be a very clever design but it's not obvious how it works.
@@desktoplathes Thanks for that great description!
usualy you also make it that you can clamp pipes from the inside, on my channel you can also see how to true up hard jaws.
Yep, they can true the outside as well... I think a lot of beginners trip over needing to clamp the jaws down to get rid of backlash in the scroll. Hopefully this video will get them started. Nice lathe you've got over on your vids - sub'd!
when truing the outside you cant use the washer trick but you need to clamp the outside with a big hoseclamp to get rid of the backlash. thanks for the sub
happymark1805 right, backlash in the other direction!
@@desktoplathes Frontlash? :)
Cones and tapers...?
Say what?
What a great video! I bought the 3 jaw set and never got around to doing the truing up, so this really answered all questions and what a difference to be able to get to half a thou of run-out! I have been using the 4 jaw chuck but set up takes a while and now I can spend more time actually learning to make some starter projects. Thank You!
Rick Moskovits - Awesome! Thanks for the feedback. One thing to keep in mind is if you only have the one setup and don’t need to match other surfaces on the work, you can still get away with an un-trued set of soft jaws. But when you have to flip a part or remove and replace... all bets are off. 4 jaw is always the most accurate but often things won’t fit in the hard jaws or you need to match concentricity with an existing surface. Take care!
thank you!