Updated How To Resole a Wooden Body Plane
This is a Stanley no.36 sent in by a viewer of the channel. The sole on this wooden plane was worn out, so today, we are going to repair the wooden sole and add on a new Rosewood sole. This process is often called resoling or doing a resole on a wooden plane.
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A Wood by Wright classic: very informative, educational, entertaining, relaxing, and a final touch of humor. Thanks, James!
Great job. Love the transitional planes
“Some really weird things“… “thank you” (as requested)… I really like your videos because you explain things so well. And I do like your aesthetic choices for a tricky repair… beautiful.
Rosewood was a great choice.
Thank You for the Tips and Teachings. BTW, the Dad Joked .... 🤣
Extend the life of the plane by adding a new sole. So that transitional plane will obviously be the life and soul of any woodworking party!
Wow nice attention to the details
If you keep adding sole layers to the plane it will end up looking like the band Kiss' platform shoes. Planes of the 80's.
Nice job :) One twist on a re sole of a wooden plane is to make a hardwood insert at the mouth as you did for the chip repair but with the end grain down ( showing at the sole when you turn the plane over. At ninety degrees to the rest of the sole) End grain down will not chip at the mouth and is very hard wearing where you really need it.
Having a pair of wood body planes, it’s good to know how to resole them. Thanks! That closing joke cut to the depths of my sole.
I have a No 29 transitional plane that I use as a jointer that could probably use this treatment, thanks!
Thank you, James!
Thanks for the video. Been thinking on getting a transitional for a while
Thanks from RSA
Ive been wondering how to go about resoling a wooden plane and then this video pops up. Awesome video yet again.
Now audio is great, thx for new upload! Cheers from Poland 🍻
Couldn't believe I uploaded the wrong file on that one. Lol
Excellent Work, as usual!
I really liked the way you fixed that chip on the soul. Pretty clever man
I would just like to say "Some really weird things." Thank you. I feel better for saying that. :)
I love the contrast between the rosewood and beech..
Nice.
Lovely project, left me with my mouth open 😂
Excellent video!! Thumbs up!!
Nice job
This was very good and timely for me. I have a number of transitional planes I want to get working. Thanks
What can I say???!!! Gorgeous.😊
Thanks for sharing.
Always enjoy your videos. They are informative and easy to follow. Have made a few of the kits you sell and they have turned out great.
Hello Sir... Just Love your videos here in India....❤
NICE job 👏.
Really beautiful work, James! It turned out amazing! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Nice save. :)
Nice job!
For the algorithm! Always appreciate the videos and methodology, thank you for your contribution to human kind.
Amusingly enough, KZhead didn't care to keep the posts in chronological order (at least for me), so now you just have a bunch of individual letters that no longer spell "comment down below".
Great video thank you.
James, Using a disposable saw is just not write of you. LOL. this video very interesting. I have a stanley no. 30 I need to get back to work on.
I've been experimenting with using a disposable saw for doing aggressive rough cuts where I don't care about the finish quality.
Thank you?
A have a transitional fore plane that I need to finish my rebuild on.
Even better 🎉
Thanks!
Looks great James! I have a longer Transition plane that needs help if you need the practice...
Great info
looks good, man!
Looks amazing. Well done 👍
I have two beautiful red haired daughters. I have a red beard and reddish brown hair. I love that I just watched a red haired man make a new sole. This video disproves the notion that Gingers don't have one.
Enjoyed!
Great video, James! I think ... I slept through some of it ... Not your fault! I'm just tired.
Wow!
2 questions. 1, does the sole need to be of uniform thickness to the top, where the metal parts screw onto? 2, if you were to make a project a month when would the wood wear down enough to need to resole it?
It does not need to be a uniform sickness. As long as it is flat and the iron can stick out uniformly across the blade that's all that matters. As to the second question that's a really gray area. It depends on what you want to use it for if you are planning a lot of figured woods then you need a fairly tight mouse. But for general use you can let the mouth get really big. Most people take it to around 3/16 of an inch.
Nice!
This was pretty cool, I have several transitional planes, some for firewood and some for restoring. Same process I would assume if you wanted to do a coffin plane or nice wooden jointer plane ???
Right on. It is the same for any plane.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo awesome, now I'll have to get me some decent wood and see what I can make out of some of these planes
why did you plane the sole in your tail vise?... it seems like it would've been ideal to clamp in your Patternmaker Vise...
The pattern makers vice has metal faces and would scratch it up. It's good when I'm working on a piece that is n't a finished face.
A question about glue, PVA vs epoxy. One old take about woodworking and glue ups is that with oily woods like rosewood, and others, is that you need to wipe the surface down first with acetone. I posed that question on one forum and basically every one said that is a myth, and the PVA glue works fine on even lignum. Any comments??? I have a couple of planes that I want to resole, or just do from scratch, and /or put a long wearing sole on, or build from scratch and then put a long lasting sole on to start with. Maybe another side question would be I have seen several videos on plane making where an end grain piece is put in cross wise on the plane, and it is very hard woods. I am guessing mostly for longer wear. Any comments?
Yes. It is an old myth. It was more of a problem for hide glue, but even then it was not that much of a problem. And, yes. The end grain wears slower but if care is not taken it will chip off easier.
i was a meeting of the RMTC and a transitional plane caught my eye. Didn't need, but had to have it. I have yet to use it . This video is a great help as I've never used one. Thank you!!
Hi, James! An educational pleasure, as always! For about half a year ago, my inner slumbering woodworker finally came to life. Thus, I am throwing myself at different projects to explore new techniques and acquire the tools I need to fully indulge. Two big lilac trees (main trunks approx 25-30 cm wide), growing on our yard, fell in a recent storm. So, in progress is a Ruobo frame saw. My adaptation of the build you’ve showcased, limited by the hardware I could afford/acquire. It’s made of out of Scandinavian pine, which I had readily available. I’m planning to coat it with Shellac, mostly to get experience doing so. This finally leads us to the questions: - I didn’t see any linseed oil being applies beforehand. Don’t you typicallyBefore shellac? Depending on the wood being used? How much time do you typically leave the shellac to dry between coats? Most sources I’ve come across seems to suggest longer time than what seems intuitively necessary to me (several hours). I’ve onlybever used shellac to seal nots (before painting) before, but in that case, the first coat has seemed dry enough to apply the second within in a matter of minutes… Excuse this lengthy post. Just wanted to give a bit of background to the questions above as well as me saying how deeply and truly grateful I am for the amazing work you do, preserving and redistributing this fountain of human culture, knowledge and ingenuity. Furthermore doing it in such a comprehensive, yet condensed, and relaxed, humble way is just mind blowing. Cheers and best wishes from Sweden! P.S. How you will be able to appropriately take partial responsibility for the mess all of this inspiration has caused a hard working father of three small ones, having to juggle a manic urge for workshop matters with everything else, that is a matter for another day, good Sir! D.S.
Generally I don't apply boiled Lindsay oil before shellac. Sometimes I want to add that color from it. I usually only wait 45 minutes or so between layers of shellac. When it's thin there's no reason to wait long.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks for sharing your views on the matter!
👍
Sorry about that!
@@WoodByWrightHowTo errare humanum est, as the Romans used to say, shit happends, loosely translated
This was great James. I really enjoyed watching. My question is I have an old Jointer Plane that is twisted toe to heal. Is there any way of repairing it or is just now an ole wooden paper weight?
Sure. You can take the twist out of it just like you would I'm bored that has wind in it. He was winding sticks to make sure that you're hitting the high spot and then just playing the high spots. Bring it down until it's flat and true just like squaring off the face of the board.
Weird things rules :D
Not sure if I'm being abit silly but I'm wondering if using a stabilised wood could be a little more durable?
Not much more then Rosewood. It is an extremely durable wood.
A sole of a comment about what plane.
How do you expect me to cut a tenon when I can’t even cut a five on!
But can you cut the cheese?
Comment below!
Is it possible to re-sole a wood plan with no metal handle bit? Just the blade bit and a wood wedge that holds it in
It sure is. It's the exact same method.
Mamite but Rosewood
I don't understand, How does the size of the mouth opening affect the function of the plane? I'm not comprehending.
For most operations it does not. But when planing difficult grain it helps limit tear out.
Some really weird things. 😂🎉
Fantastic and timely! I just picked up a Stanley 76 with a chipped mouth and now I have a plan to fix it! I’ll try the inlay first, but if that won’t work, I’ll resole it. Thanks!
If you sanded the sole, would that have prevented the chip in the mouth that you had to fix?
No. The chip was because there was a defect in the wood grain.
Comment down below
Stand Up! oops you are
W
What did you update?
The first one had bad audio so you could not hear the voice over. I just uploaded the wrong file and had to reupload it.
I see a lot of these resoled by old-timers with brass or steel plates. Maybe they didn’t want to just buy a metal plane?
“Weird things”
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It’s a Frankenplane😅
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You did a poor job showing HOW you corrected the frog/throat misalignment. Did you have to cut down the throat or change the frog alignment? Or both?
Where is your video on this topic. How do you do it?
Unfortunately it's really really difficult to show that actual work inside. The camera just can't fit in there with the tool. I put the chisel on the frog and use it to reference and slide down until it catches. Anywhere where it hits just remove that material.
Saying really weird things (for the algorithm)
L
Another snide remark
You really should wear gloves when working with epoxy... keep safe.
Why?
@@Hansenomics because uncured epoxy resin is a very aggressive sensitising agent. It can give you awful contact allergies if you get it on your skin too many times.
Algorithm Boost here! 🦾
Nice!
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