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Your brakes are only as good as the traction that your tires can provide.
always the other factor :)
You also have brake fade. You want to keep your rotors and pads as cool as possible
@@ThomasShelby-uq8czwhich is why drilled rotors are superior
@@2seep Negative. Porsche, Ferrari and others made by Brembo have holes cast into the rotor blank! Unless you buy a rotor made this way, drilled rotors will crack and FAIL!!! Slotted rotors are always better for the street application!
Bad brakes can lock up. Tire has no say.
Crossed drilled vented rotors help expel heat and gasses faster to prevent brake fade. This is obviously noticeable when driving spiritedly in the mountains and other hilly areas. I've run both plain and crossed drilled for years each (only crossed drilled since), and the difference in braking with crossed drilled in high heat producing situations like hilly, twisty canyon driving (particularly downhill) in Colorado is beyond obvious. Cross drilling (not "dimpling") does make a huge difference.
I installed some drilled and slotted rotors on my work truck. It made a huge difference. I was surprised for sure.
Awesome video, thank you for this info!
Great information and great explanation. Thank You Sir !
I love brake talk, initially it was hard to find good info. The recommended service life of rubber lines is something i try to preach, it's an interesting issue because the rubber lines will work for 30 years, but people can get to that point, start having problems and not even realize they should be replacing lines. But i find the most fun i have talking brakes is triggering people. You simply can't tell people drilled rotors aren't an upgrade on an open forum without someone taking it very personal. I've been super nice and super factual but still blocked on Facebook over it.
Wow! Wow, Wow, and Wow - the accurate, spot on, no B/S Truth about brakes! Super well done.
excellent video. Very informative and your not long winded.
Thank you for all the information, videos like this are a blessing.
You are so welcome
Very informative! Thanks so much for sharing!👍
This was the most beneficial video I've ever watched on breaks. I'm considering a big brake kit on a 2012 Raptor that I track on dirt a lot. I've been dabbling on road tracking it which is where I know I would be needing greater stopping power. Thank you for all of the detail add hard work that was put into this video
how can you spell "break" and then 5 words later spell it correctly?
Great video, man. Thanks for your hard work.
Very valuable information. My wife said it was very informative because she realized that she has horrible brakes on her BMW and she’s only using.three when she supposed to be using one.5.1
Great information,never knew a great deal about breaks ,now I know much more great explanations 😊
Glad it was helpful!
BRAKES
@@closg9309lol, still has more to learn.
Thanks. Great information
Good video but do you guys have modified hub centric rings to fit over sized rotors on my VW Tiguan??
Great video, thanks!
what would you recommend for a 2019 F150 4 x 4 with regular heavy towing?
Keeping the old brake fluid in the line or flush with fluid sitting on the shelves for a few years that once been opened?
Thanks for the video. I driving amg and driving fast all the time. Ceramics brake pads I will buy .
Actually, you might mention that stainless steel braided brake lines take the "Sponginess" out of braking because they don't expand and contract nearly as much as rubber brake line hoses do. This is particularly noticeable on Motorcycles, and yes it does increase confidence, making the bike feel more "Sure Footed". Also, heat dissipation is not a big factor when you have a Hybrid or Electric car with Dynamic braking as most of the energy in heat normally dissipated in the brakes instead goes back into charging the battery. Although I guess this channel is about automotive performance?
I love the feedback here this is what I would hope for is comments like this from other sides like Motorcycles. I 've always wanted to ride Motorcycles but my experience is in the automotive world. But this is great feedback, thank you and hope you enjoy the channel even as a biker.
@@talkingmods your mention of "increased confidence" when referring to stainless lines was all I needed to get the hint...😉
Pretty good job covering that stuff in a short time. You managed to get in a sentence on cross drilling and F1 cars which I thought was good. Cross-drilling is very important for motorcycles because with a solid rotor in the rain that is pucker time unless you constantly drag to front brakes. Waste of time/money for normal cars but it looks cool for guys who want that. Had some minor disagreement on organic pads - I don't think Tire Rack sells any organic pads so they're not in demand ?
Appreciate you watching! Well I don't know buy from Tire Rack, and we sell our brakes from multiple manufactures at www.ModBargains.com (I am the CEO) but to name a few brands that are organic based are like Pagid, Hawk HPS (uses carbon), I think EBC has a pad as well. In terms of Demand well most big brake kits come with an organic pad because they want the rotors to last, plus you won't get the squeaking. Hope that helps.
I recently bought some Brembo front brakes for my 2006 w220 s500, They both came with left side vanes. One side was appropriate, and the other was venting the opposite way. I purchased them from a reputable supplier and was told that's what's being sent out now. I wasn't very happy about that, but I installed them anyway.
They lied to you.
Great stuff. 👍
Not to get argumentative, But if heat is the enemy of brakes, Cross drilled ( chamfered) and slotted allow heat to dissipate much faster and avoid rotors from getting warped, glazed or damaged. Its much cheaper to replace your brake parts more frequently ( every 30-45k miles ) than not being able to stop in time and having a collision. I think you generalized too many things and inadvertently misinformed many in this video. I have seen and experienced substantial shorter braking distances ( much less brake fade) by utilizing carbon ceramic brake pads ( Hawk ) and cross drilled ( chamfered) and slotted rotors. I am in the auto service business and NEVER seen any warped rotors which have this design. Not true of solid rotors. Warping and fading is a common issue. I agree with you about the brake lines and brake fluid types for boil points,. The takeaway, is proper selection of brands, quality and type of use. Street, high performance street, track, etc.
Man, this guy is all over the place. If anyone really tried to make sense out of what he's trying to say , will end up in mental asylum
I would replace with similar to what it came with.
One factor is important to the choice of Brakes, the intended use. I see C6 ZR1’s with Carbon Fiber Brakes which , as you correctly stated are stupid money to replace. For the average street driving in North America, a total waste of money unless ( like the Criss Drilled Rotor fad) for bragging only. I drove my C6 (standard Brakes, mostly) on the German Autobahn extensively at fairly hi speeds and never had an issue with fading and such.
For average street driving In North America, huge fixed caliper brakes are also a complete and total waste of coin, and for bragging/bling only as well, especially for rides that will never see even open track lapping days. 😉
Earned a subscriber 👍
Hi, and THX for the basics of disc brake components. Very informative and well done. I have a 2021 Toyota Highlander V6 AWD. I like the vehicle but with only 40000 mi. it seems that I have rotor problems. 80% of this vehicle's mileage has been from the same 480 mile trip from Orange Co. in So. Cal. to El Dorado County in No, Cal. I almost always have 2 passengers and about 350 lbs. of cargo, at about 125 miles there is a 6 mi. 6% grade hill on I-5 where most lighter vehicles are generally starting their descent at about 70-77 mph. Well, doesn't take a doctorate in physics to determine that you need to use the brakes to keep the vehicle at or under 80 mph. Ive probably made this trip 18 - 20 times and now I've developed a light to moderate brake pulsation. Yes, I could have a hanging caliper at the root of the problem but the braking was very smooth until about 39-40K mi. and I would think that a hanging caliper would have produced some symptoms before 39K mi. My question is, in order to keep from replacing pads and rotors a bit more frequently than I'd like to, do you think that higher grade front rotors (slotted?) will make a significant difference. I'm truly dissapointed that this one big hill has caused warped rotors from heat build up but I'm planning on making this trip with the same frequency and don't want to keep replacing brake parts. Your thoughts, please?
Have you tried gearing down to use engine braking on the hills? This will save considerable brake wear, even if you only use it for the long downhill sections...
*Hi Ron: Another superb presentation. Always filled with pertinent, necessary info, your presentations are never too long!* *However, you neglected to mention: By virtue of their angle slots direct the gasses outward. These gasses are generated by hot chemical binders in the pads that otherwise are trapped between pad-rotor interface. Gasses are directed to rotor periphery and thence to the air stream. However slight, gasses have mass and like water are also subject to centrifugal force.* *Would love to see interviews with Brembo, Stop Tech and other industry leading technical specialists. Sadly, most engineers worth hearing from are usually reticent but non-engineering marketing types will talk your ears off.* *Your timing of this video is auspiciously spot-on. Thank you for directing me to Racing Brake. After careful assembly the slotted floater-discs work like a champ in this infernal rain. With fresh ECE 90-compliant ceramic pads, experience informs me they're just as wet-effective as the old, X-drilled and now-cracked discs. Price-worthy water pumpers supreme. Thank you again, love ya' and Cheers!*
Awesome glad you liked it! Great addition on the angle of of the slots. Very welcome sir :)
The direction the gasses go from slots is irrelevant as there is ample room for them to evacuate either way, even towards the hub side. Furthermore, slots are for slicing or shaving the pad, although they catch and evacuate gasses as well, that is not their intended purpose, that is what cross-drilled holes are for (which route the gasses towards the cooling vanes and out) You want the slot to tip-in towards the pads with the direction of rotation, not the way you suggested, in order to shave (clean) the pad properly. If one is concerned about out-gassing, you'd be looking at something with cross drilled holes as well as slots, as that is not what slots are for.
I'm very interested in upgrading the calipers on my vehicle from floating to fixed because I am so beyond tired of them sticking and causing issues like warped rotors, overheating brakes, loss of acceleration, increased pad wear, loss of fuel economy, etc. I noticed that many of the fixed calipers have slots for rapidly changing pads, which I think is cool for a track, but I don't care much about that for a daily driven street car. I do care a lot about the pads retracting with the pistons away from the rotors though to prevent sticking pads or pads that are constantly in contact with the rotor surface. Because of the slide through design, I've noticed that a lot of the pads for fixed calipers don't come with metal springs or tabs that hold them in place against the piston like what is typically found in floating calipers. Because I wouldn't be tracking my car, ever, I would much rather sacrifice the ability to quickly change pads to have them fixed to the pistons and then just have to remove the caliper when I want to change pads (~30,000-50,000 miles). Do these types of brake pads, with metal springs/tabs, exist for fixed piston calipers? Thanks for posting this informative video for beginners!
What about high carbon rotors vs cast iron?
Bought my sweetheart a 2012 impala with 40k on it about 8 years ago. I apologize as this doesn't apply to super car brakes. Shortly after owning it, the front brakes needed replacing. Bought Decent rotors and pads from Napa. About 10k miles later, the rotors warped. Keep in mind I torque each lug nut and clean the hub with a wire wheel. Yes...I showed her how to manually down shift the tranny to take advantage of engine braking. We live in a hilly area similar to San Fransisco. So I upped my game and bought the best Napa sold and the rotors warped once again within 10k-15k miles. I then ordered some drilled and slotted rotors and supposedly matching pads online for a considerably higher price. They worked great until the pads wore out and ruined the rotors. I believe the drilled and slotted rotors/pads made it another 25k miles. I cheaped out and bought some cheaper....but not the cheapest rotors and pads and sure as shit...the rotors are warped again. UGH....I am truly tired of this. Turning rotors has become a thing of the past and I believe they will re-warp anyhow. I think it truly comes down to the manufacturing process. Vented rotors obviously have to be cast and I would surmise that pre and post heating for the casting process is the culprit during the process. Any thoughts or recommendations for my situation moving forward? Thanks for any advice!
warping can be caused by the parking brake when the rotors are still hot, that might be something if they're warping THAT often
In my experience, if you cut a warped rotor, they don't tend to warp again unless you really abuse them. It seems most (regular car) rotors develop internal stresses in the manufacturing process. The multitude of heat cycles seems to relive these stresses causing warping. I have had every set of parts store rotors warp, even name brands. I have been using power stop for some time now (initially because they came zinc washed) and haven't had any warped rotors. They seem to be well machined and precisely cast vs other regular street car rotors. I'm sure there are other brands that are affordable and comparable as well.
All Chinese rotors warp. Does not matter the brand. Voice of experience here...
Does anyone know of a product of similar quality to KVR Performance carbon fiber brake pads and cadmium plated cross drilled rotors? I bought a set of these for my front brakes in 2004 and they lasted the rest of the life of the car, which was 15+ years and almost 200k miles. KVR Performance closed down I guess.
Why no mention of semi metallic
I understand the reason behind drilling the rotorsbut I don’t drive like I’m in a race so I’m not hammering the brakes in my trucks. Heat is a big reason for warping rotors.
Yeah trucks carry a lot of weight in general, braking on them is going to generate heat far more then say most passanger vehicles, and the more heat that keeps getting put into it the likelihood of warping goes up.
*What model of Rolex are you wearing?*
I have a F-250 King Ranch, and I am pulling a large 5th wheel trailer @ 18,000 gvwr. , Justifiably towing that kind of load would require a one ton. However, I wanted to stay with my F-250, because it does the job of towing, and provides me with a run around pickup. Does the stock brakes on the F-250 need to be upgraded? Would it be worth the money to upgrade the brakes?
.....you is towing that much weight and asking people on KZhead what you should do with brakes and is it going to be worth it for you? You can't be serious
What you think it be better for my 2008 ford crown vic p71
I don't think there are a lot of aftermarket options for the crown vic, but for me to recommend depends on what driving is going to be done. Feel free to reach out to one of our ModExperts here at ModBargains
Thanks
Welcome
Hoped you might have some advice i have an audi tt mk3 and have order replacement pads from ebc but they came without a sensor attacked to the new pads can I still install them or should I send them back.
Why would you want sensor attack new pads??
@dkrawk8309 My bad, the old pads were so badly caked in break dust that I didn't realise the sensors just pull off 😆
You should be fine with the sensors that came with the pads :) Guessing you may have installed them already. Typically sensors are separately purchased.
What do you recommend for 2015 Lexus gs 350 f sport rwd? Couldn’t find any at the website
Recommend for what?
What type of brakes make the least amount of brake dust? And what type would you recommend for a Honda SUV/CR-V? Thanks.
Ceramic coated pads and rotors are way better than factory and cause hardly no brake dust .
@@bootskennedy6426 Thanks for the reply!
@@bootskennedy6426no one is putting ceramic rotors on a CRV. Ceramic pads on the other hand are easy and fairly cheap. Thing is they don’t brake quite as good as metallic and a CRV doesn’t have the best brakes to begin with. Won’t matter much in daily driving, but in an emergency a few feet could make a big difference.
I thought the crossdrilling was for additonal cooling? It also weakens the rotor contributing to cracking. You didn't mention that Dot 5 brake fluid is NOT compatible with 3, 4, and 5.1. You can switch between the latter 3 any time. The higher the number the higher the boiling temperature and also the more likely it will adsorb water. So, if you use the higher numbers of DOT brake fluid, you need to flush the lines more often.
Yeah cross drilling for cooling is a myth. All non sense to get people to spend. Knew this video would shake things that people know. I thought I mentioned the DOT fluid numbers but yes you said it perfectly on the benefit and drawbacks of it. I love the benefit over just having it to flush it out more often personally.
The information i got about slotted/ drill-slotted rotors is that thoes rotors dissabates Heat, which means the rotors will not heat up as much like standard roters ,which makes the pads last longer, nuff-said 😮😊
Thats a big myth on rotors. They don't make the pads last longer. I just might bring in a representative from Brembo down for this for you guys.
An error that you made is stating that slotted rotors wear pads faster. Not true of premium level rotors that have chamfered slots. I generally get 80-90,000 miles on a set of pads on F150, F250 and F350 pickups using slotted and drilled rotors and HD towing pads. The last set of pads on my F350 went 82K and where only replaced when the friction material broke off one of the steel backer plates. Three of the 4 rotors looked like new while the one with the failed pad could have been resurfaced and still be within limits. I replaced them all anyhow, just because I could. The other remaining 6 pads pads were only at a measured 50% vs the new identical brand part number
Yes, I wondered about that statement too.
what brand rotor did you use?
@@ajones8008 Powerstop - which I've used with great results along with their Z36 pads
Hi I've just bought a car that came with ceramic rotors, and I'm trying to understand if such rotors need specific pads. Somewhere I read they should be low metallic, but I don't know if that means semi metallic? When looking online for pads I never see clear information in the eshops, so I'm simply unsure. If someone could shed some light on this topic I'd be more than grateful.
Your rotors are most likely ceramic carbon composite. I would use pads of the same material, or the lowest metal content ceramic pads you can find. If you know the manufacturer of the rotors or a car manufacturer that uses such (Porsche, Alfa Romero, etc) I would reach out to them for a recommendation.
I'll have a look if I can figure out the manufacturer. It's an RS3, that much I know. I reached out to EBC, but they didn't seem to be able to help, I asked if could use their ceramic pads. I'm new to such rotors, and I haven't seen anywhere a clear statement saying "these are great for carbon ceramic rotors."
@@mccap81for as much as you just spent on those rotors stick with the pads made to go with them. Don’t try to out engineer the company that made them to save a few bucks.
@seashackf1 Thanks for the reply. In the end I went for OE pads based on recommendation.
@@mccap81 smart move, ceramics are different than iron rotors. Mixing and matching isn’t as easy.
You forgot to mention that for the high end car manufacturers, they use rotor blanks with the holes cast in! Just drilling a blank rotor to get the holes will eventually cause them to crack and fail!!!
You are right, great comment! I see this in the aftermarket side too where some places are taking blanks drilling them, then slapping their name with no disregard for the quality of the brakes. Why this is so important people understand it.
When a car comes from the factory the brakes have to meet certain standards that are laid down by the country's DOT. They will exceed these by some margin. An SUV fully loaded at its maximum speed has to stop with ease and safely. The standard brakes will do this. Many years later the same cars brakes feel poor . When were they last stripped rebuilt with O E parts and had the brake fluid flushed through with new fluid ? When an " upgrade " is done with calipers ,slotted discs and high performance pads etc , they will feel great , you've just just done a rebuild. But with all these bigger components with different diameter brake discs and caliper pistons I never see that a new vital brake master cylinder mentioned , perhaps one of the most crucial parts.....Oh and good quality OE spec tyres play an enormous part as they transfer the braking force applied to the road. So before going mad on fancy stuff , try rebuilding your OE brakes to original spec and investing in high quality tyres you might be genuinely impressed.
Organic wears faster not slower than metallic
I want to break traction of the rear wheels really quickly :D
Thanks for the video. Right now I'm interested in knowing a g9d brand to buy for rotors on my 07 Honda Accord. I currently have Bosch front rotors and are putting where the pads sat. First time I've ever seen anything like that. Rotors are about 4 years old. Not buying Bosch again. Also, you should just focus on passenger vehicles instead of talking about exotic cars. I bet you 99.9% of the ppl watching this are passenger vehicle owners.
👍🏻
@13:19 '...brake fluid is what we're using to dissipate the heat'. Say WHAT?!? If that were true, where are the brake fluid coolers??
😂😂😂😂😂 they are under rear passenger seat man!
I always buy what is recommended for my vehicle, that way, I know that my vehicle will be in good shape
Aftermarket, from a good brand, are better than OEM in every respect for most cars, especially non performance cars.
I stopped watching when you started talking about heat dissipation and two piece rotors. Please give accurate information or don’t post. The video was wobbly before that and was most likely going to get worse. I did watch the second half and it did get worse! When you post this stuff people believe you and you have a responsibility not to talk absolute nonsense.
FFS, it's "BRAKES", people, NOT "breaks"! Cross drilled will aid de-gassing, which is why it's used, but the drillings are GREAT for promoting cracking of the discs, due to thermal expansion differences, and can even lead to the disc shattering/exploding!
What’s better 4 or 6 piston calipers kit for a daily driver/track?I can’t decide 🤦🏾♂️
13 piston
Dot 3, 4, and 5.1 are not the same as Dot 5 and the two groups are not interchangeable at all.
Bruh o have a Nissan Altima 🤷🏻♂️ not really worried about stopping form 120mph to 0 in 0.003 seconds
First off thank you for watching, but the next time it's time to get brakes, you can look at aftermarket to save some money and maybe still have a better performance, if you desire it, or have longer lasting brakes, or ones that don't dust as much.
I would say someone is biased about cross drilled rotors.
I want to upgrade my Lamborghini Diablo brakes , make an offer , I’ll be right with u , I mean it ❤️👀
I'm not going to watch this video again, but it was disorganized enough that I feel like I'd have to watch it three times to get the useful info out of it.
Site sucks, filtering for a specific car just shows universal parts like any other site, ima stick with the sites that actually work
Mostly good information. Weak information on function of brake fluid and purpose and why swapping to higher boiling point fluids are beneficial.
This is really useless for the guy that does his own brakes. I really needed info on brands and difference in rotors, not slotted etc., but just regular rotors. Warranties, how they are covered, when you can return, etc.
If you do your own brakes you can't return nothing and there is no warranty because you are not licensed mechanic and I don't believe there is a place in canada or u as of a where you are even allowed to work on your car which involves safety components
@@dkrawk8309 I have worked on my own brakes since 1965, on my first car a 1960 Corvair. I have returned brakes for warranty a few times with no problems. I also repair my own cars, change oil, etc. I currently drive a 2009 Honda Crv with 135,000 miles (bought new) and it has never been repaired. Front brakes went 88,000 miles, rears 108,000 miles. I also have a 2017 Toyota with 88,000 miles (bought new) and the front brakes have been replaced twice, once under warranty. My last car is a 1984 Mustang (bought new) has 75,000 miles and I don’t think the brakes have been done. Honda brakes usually last a long time, Toyota, I’m learning yet. When I started driving Hondas in 1996, I realized you drive them and not repair them. When Honda went to the small engines with turbos and CVT transmissions, I refused to buy them and I bought the Toyota. I was a Chevrolet man from 1965 to mid 1990’s. Then I switched, now I drive, but don’t repair. Repairing brakes on most regular cars is easy. You can find some good tutorials on You Tube. Replacing pads, shoes, pins, rubbers, rotors and hardware is not difficult. Most people that are handy can do this. I taught my grandson and he does most of my maintenance. Even my son-in-law was taught by his boss at work. I have lived in the Chicago area since 1955.
This just fine for someone like me who is replacing their rotors for the first time. Just wanna know what I'm looking at; specific reviews and tests will help me decide on brands.
I disagree with you about brake lines. Toyota and Lexus brake lines don't go bad in 5 years. That is probably Chevy, Ford and Mc vehicles.
Did I say the brake lines go bad? I think I said the service interval to brake fluid changes right.
Not true? I’ve believed cross-drilled rotors allow hot air to escape from under the pads during braking
The purpose of "drilled rotors" is specifically for cooling. I've have had the pads on my 2010 Mazda 3 since 2016 without changing them. In that time, we've put 60,000 miles on the vehicle. They are ceramic pads with drilled rotors.
Drilled rotors are for more friction and better cooling . And for better pad chewing
Better chewing yes, less life on pads.. Friction, not sure if I'd call it that. Cooling no. But for sure a way to get rid of water better :) Guys they are not for better cooling - I will bring in a manufacturer to do a sit down since my word isn't enough.
@@talkingmods drilled rotors don't cool better?? What's wrong with you? Why is there front vented rotors and rear solid rotors? Just because? Do you have your grade 6 in physics bruh?
This knowledge comes from me experiencing and talking with multiple people in the industry and who produce brakes, and plenty of race teams, from formula 1 etc. Go look up a formula 1 vehicle they are all about less weight and cooling of course, why aren't they using those rotors in races? But cross drilled will only show up on rain day type of days, because it expels water. I make these videos because I am in this every day, so to educate and cut through the myth and help you guys make better choices. But it sure creates for some good drama I guess and as I mentioned I'll bring in someone else for you guys in future so that you can hear it from someone else.
Organic are dogshit. Semi metalic or ceramic break pads are the king. Drilled rotors are the best cause they let break pad gases go away making the pads and discs to have better contact during racing or downhill breaking!
My advice is to shorten the wires from the sensor and don’t replace the pads! This is way cheaper! Also the brake light will never cum back again so no more annoying situations!
I don’t know much about brakes, but the whole “cross drilled” argument, they in theory are supposed to expel heat and prevent warping from them being cooler when hitting water.
When it’s an option for a Ferrari, you know it’s expensive.
What about carbon fiber ceramic brake pads, like power stop Z23 versions? Im also wondering if the rotors I bought for a 4runner were a good choice upgrade. Power Stop z23 drilled and slotted.. is this a good combination? I heard you say drilled was bad for integrity of the rotor. now I'm thinking I should've just got slotted. thoughts anyone?
If you had drilled the holes yourself, then there would be cause for pause. You bought them from a reputable manufacturer that has done the research to essentially eliminate that risk
Title of video. upgrading brakes. for who? racing enthusiast or daily driver? your all over the place. video should be one or the other not a rid bit of info for both. i walked away with many questions. OEM is best.
you mean pads and rotors . otherwise you just said redundant and more redundanter
Too bad you are not a brake specialist!!
I don't manufacturer brakes, but I do have extensive knowledge on it, but since I am considering bringing in a Brembo representative just for you guys , lots of misinformation out there.
Didn't help Paul walker
Sorry I don't know them, but you can check on www.toptiergas.com/ if they meet the qualifications
Or you could just buy OEM 😂
LOL sure!
Horrible conveying of thought processing explaining info.
So much misinformation...😵💫