In this episode of Danny Soliz Says, Danny talks about lifter preload and how to avoid issues with your lifters and valvetrain components by making sure you bleed your lifters prior to reassembly.
www.enginebuildermag.com/
In this episode of Danny Soliz Says, Danny talks about lifter preload and how to avoid issues with your lifters and valvetrain components by making sure you bleed your lifters prior to reassembly.
www.enginebuildermag.com/
Every day is a school day. watching your videos
Hey Danny you are a genuine genius gentlemen...spent all morning trying to get the camshalt back in and watched your video... Now perfect... You saved me a lot of time and money... Thank You, my friend...
Thanks for this video. You saved me a lot of aggravation as I was just getting ready to replace my lifters in my 09 GM 2.4l ecotec. When I received the new set of lifters a few days ago, I expected that the plungers would be able to be compressed easily but that was not the case. They were fully pumped up and solid as a rock. This had me confused a little because there is no mention of this in the service manual so I was going to install the lifters as is. Installing lifters filled with oil makes sense on a Chevy 350 because you have adjustable rockers but does not make sense on this engine due to the rockers not being adjustable. So I stalled the installation and searched Google and finally stumbled across your video. This information didn't pop of immediately. Most threads about installing lifters didn't mention this either. Now I am happy that I delayed the installation and feel vindicated for my concern. Once again, thanks.
Will I have to do it on my 2012 Chevy Equinox 2.4L Ecotec too? I got new GM lifters and they’re hard solid too.
My GOD!!!!! You have no idea the mistake you just saved me from. TODAY I had all my lifters in a box. I used a carburetor jet cleaner( like a paint gun needle cleaner) to make sure I had the tiny hole on the end of each lifter free of carbon build up. I then blew compressed air through the small side hole in the lifter, to expell any foreign debris from the tip of the lifter. When the air cleared the lifter of old oil and possibly any other fine debris, I then took a syringe full of new oil and injected oil into the small hole on the side of the lifter until the a steady stream of oil came out of the end of the lifter. I then dipped the entire lifter in oil and dropped into the head, and actioned it back and forth to ensure free movement. Each lifter is FULL of oil 😆😆😆😆. I only got that far. I haven't fitted the cams in yet THANK GOD
Why doesn't anyone else tell us this goddamnit man how many people have fucked up stuff not doing this . Your the best
This is clear and easy to understand. Thanks
Every word the man says is absolutely right
Saved me about $160 and panic attack thank you sir
Way to go, engine builder. Something as simple as that saves a whole pile of trouble. Top tip😊
Great video. My Jeep 3.6 L engine has a V6 with overhead cam. I had a shop put in new rocker arms on one head. There was one roller that had slop and it was causing a ticking sound. My 351C engine in my Ford got a new Comp Cam and lifters. We added Harland Sharp roller rockers. Your videos are full of good information.
I have been looking everywhere for this info. Everyone said I was crazy or that I did not know how to adjust valves. I knew it was the lifters were not bleeding down on their own.
Very thoroughly explained - many thanks as I freaked out a bit when I put the rockers back into a Kohler Command and the valve bound up, (luckily) as I turned the engine slowly by hand and realized something was badly wrong before I did any damage. Many thanks! An old timer!
I did the same thing on a Kohler ... yes I just turned mine gently by hand and it slowly bled back down luckily 😄
I just installed new intake cams on a 2017 3.6l pentastar. Typical roller rocker failure as many owners have unfortunately and it chewed up 3 lobes causing a misfire in cylinder 5. I hope I'm ok with my lifters as I came across your video a bit late in the game. Put in all new rockers on both intake sides and I replaced 3 of the lifters on the valves with the shot rockers all others looked good with no movement by hand. Appreciate your video and Knowledge shared.
Thank you sir. I've got a gm 3.6l alloytec with tonnes of sludge. I decided to remove the heads to check everything for damage, plus I've never done this job before. Bleeding the lifters was something that never crossed my mind, so again thank you. From Australia. PS. if there is to much grit in the lifter oil, I'll buy new ones
Very clear explanation, thanks a lot!
Great video, thanks for sharing 🇺🇸🏁
Thank you for this valuable information. I have just finished up replacing the hydraulic bucket style lifters in a 07 kia rio 1.6 It never crossed my mind that the new lifters would be filled with oil . That being said, you know the results of my failure. I have to go and remove the crankshaft balancer pulley , timing belt and both camshafts because of the new lifters being full of oil " and NOT checking them before assemble. Lessons learned the hard way. Great video on hyd lifters !
Why cant you just turn the motor by hand and bleed each lifter down using a lever of some kind ? It will work the same as a vice ...
Excellent, thanks
I figured this out for myself when i rebuilt my Audi engine. I found very little information about this on the internet. I'm actually amazed more people don't have a problem when they put in new valves and lap them in.
i was thinking the same, how come people dont talk about this issue or post this question on the internet. i guess if you install the lifter on the same valve that you took it off from, may be there is a less of a chance for it to cause any damage.. but if you mix when installing can cause issues i guess?
@@samithaweeraman1882 For the engine Im working on, the manual says to crank the engine over so all 4 cylinders are at mid height when installing the cams. I guess thats another way of ensuring no valves collide with piston crowns
So when cranking the lifters are locked at full position or are they complectly empty?
@@samithaweeraman1882 They should be completely empty. As soon as you start cranking the engine the oil pressure will fill them and they'll expand to fill the space, perfectly. I suggest you disconnect the injectors and crank over for around 10s. After a couple of these cranks the oil pressure will have filled them all and you can start the engine. It may clatter a little initially as some struggle to expel the air.
@@rogeronslow1498 thanks mate! i did this on a BMW N47 I partially filled the lifters and went to town and like you said cranked it without any fuel and it worked great. quite a few are telling to fit these while they are rock hard but it makes complete sense for them to go in empty and fill in as needed when you crank when oil pressure builds up.. hope these comments will come in handy for someone in future.
We do this on all of our LS/LT builds. Very important…especially when checking pushrod length and lifter preload- it will be way off if you don’t do this ahead of time!
How does this work if there is a check valve inside the hydraulic lifters? Shouldn't the lifter not compress at all?
@@oswaldcobblepot502 when gently depressing the lifter cup into the body of the lifter, oil will bleed out of the oiling hole allowing movement of the cup. With regard to a check valve, this hasn’t prevented us from bleeding LS style lifters. Oil pressure while the engine is running keeps the lifter pumped up .
@floridahighperformance So if I understand correctly, the oil is escaping between the lifter body and the plunger, and then out of the oiling port. Can't think of how it could escape any other way due to the check valve.
@@oswaldcobblepot502 that’s correct. During normal operation on a hydraulic lifter, as the cam lobe pushes the lifter up, a piston inside the lifter closes off any oil escape…which essentially makes the lifter solid…and as the cam lobe approaches the base circle the piston returns to its normal position allowing oil to move through the lifter once again. When we bleed lifters down, we are just pressing the oil out of the body of the lifter through the oiling hole, which allows the cup to move freely so we can accurately check lifter preload for pushrod length.
@@floridahighperformance Thanks for the reply that was helpful 👍
Other videos suggest a small paperclip to push the check ball away from the seat. Then you can push in the plunger easily and bleed the oil.. you kinda do it at the same time. I wish I knew all of this ahead of time .. got semi lucky that I didnt bend valves.. but I have to take out the timing chain on my VW GTI.. because I wasnt getting any cylinder pressure in Cyl 2. At least ..now I know.. Thanks for the informative video!
Make sure the paperclip isn't sharp.
Thank you for your knowledge and video's USA 🇺🇸
He is right about bleeding lifters that they can hold valves dangerously open and cause damage if not bled. Instead of using vise, I found it better to take off retaining clip, completely disassemble lifter using brake cleaner solvent to clean all gunk out of which there may be a lot, and reassemble with no oil in it at all. Let it get oil when it pumps up installed for automatic adjustment.
I can't tell you how many used lifters I've been able to restore simply by disassembling and thoroughly cleaning them internally.
In the 70s when I learned this trade, I would always take apart all hydraulic lifters, one at a time, and clean it thoroughly because there is no filthier oil to be found anywhere else than inside a lifter. How can they work at all if they are made to capture this crap? Short answer is they can't be expected to work well and its a miracle if they do. It took a clean solvent pan and ruined it all by itself. Just fill them back up with clean oil which will then bleed down as expected instead of hung up on that junk inside. Cleaning your very first used hydraulic lifter will amaze you with all the pure filth found inside.
Hay Dan thanks for the video, I tried bleeding the lifters as I had 4 that where giving me an issue with the cam being lopsided added the lifters and still have the same issue, should I keep trying?
thank you
Danny is the MAN! Great video.
I found your video very interesting… I have disassembled my engine (WV Polo 6N1) but now I can’t get it to start! There is no fuel admission to the valves. It seems that the compression goes up to the carburetor! I wonder if the problem is from the hydraulic lifters… Before assembling the camshaft I bled the lifters… Thanks
Interesting how Ive seen other info that suggest putting normal old school hyd tappets in a bucket of oil so they dont start dry. Maybe the difference rests with is the engine builder going to manually rotate the oil pump so everything is oiled first or go straight for the cold start?
Anything you'd recommend for sticky lifter?
One question, the service manuals says I need to bleed the air out of the lifters. If I do what you do in the video, wouldn't that be putting air into the lifters? Thank you in advance for your replay.
Your wife is looking at you... what is going on? 😂😂😂
Do you do this with new lifters to. And do you leave the new lifters in oil .
Could this be done with the lifters still in the engine by using a long rod and a lever in a small block Chevy so I don’t have to pull the intake manifold to remove lifters.
Can the air compressor be used to clean out the oil?
Can you replace lifters without removing the camshaft on a ecotec 2.2. If I loosen the bearings enough to take them out. I can wire tie the sprockets.
What about when you have anti pump up lifters what is the pre load then Or does it not have any preload and you need to have clearance
Wow I didn’t know this isn’t common hydraulic lifters works 1985 Japanese Mitsubishi start used this system after that all company use self adjustment I thought better and quicker than use micrometer to find right sims But I didn’t know some mechanic hasn’t knowledge for this 😅 And very nice and good video 🎉
Awesome thanks for the advice. I thought all my lifters were stuck (£u
Does it matter which way you have the little oil hole facing when you install the lifters?
On a 4.6 DOHC, on new lash adjusters, do I need to do anything, or just drop in the new lash adjusters?
So, I assume it is possible that type lifter could remain "pumped up" during an oil change?
If you install new lifter do you have to bleed them?
So worn or contaminated lifters can be a cause of "leaking" valve's?
Good stuff Danny. I needed to know this. What about new lifters? Heard people say soak them in oil overnight. Then bleed them down a bit next day? I’m fiddling with ford Modulars. 2v 3v and 4v.
I'll soak roller lifters overnight , reg hyd. lifters I'll just dip in oil before installing them.
🤔 I just added new rocker arms and lifters I soaked them over night. Do I need to bleed the lifters??
What do lifters have to do with compression that's for the springs
I have a question, I'm working in a Pontiac grand prix 2006 I removed the heads and I noticed when I removed the rocker arm some push rods they spongy and some don't that's normal?
Hi people. Does the rockers has to go in the same place ? I kinda mix them up a little 😢
Awesome
I have some lifters where i can move the plunger freely by hand even when they are filled - those are worn than, right? I placed them in oil to soak and 19 of them are rock hard while 5 of them act more or less like a pump - i can just pump the oil out by hand even when submerged in ATF. (Trying to get the gunk out of them)
You seem to understand motors , and I’m learning a lot quickly, I have a 2grfe that has an intermittent, complete every revolution miss on cylinder 3 . After it starts missing can turn off and restart several times still missing or may start immediately and back to normal. Revving the engine cold will start the miss very often , after warming up its much more difficult to start the miss but once the miss starts it must be turned off and restarted . When missing it always is every revolution, COULD THIS BE A MALFUNCTIONING LIFTER ? Any help would be greatly appreciated
Your video is spot on. I watched so many video on this subject that left me confused. I have a '99 Expedition. Watching your video I was able to bleed the lifters. On a separate issue, the bolt hole for the chain guide on the right side of my engine stripped. The bolt hole is 25 mm, I think. I found a 25mm bolt that fit. The original bolt is less than 25 mm. Now I'm wondering when the aluminum head gets hot and expand if that won't cause a problem. What's your opinion please?
I have a 00' expedition and if I were you I would just send a bigger bolt thru
@@Popcorx Thanks. That's exactly what I did. I'm still working on it.
@@renejacques8288 Nice I'm currently installing new lifters and gaskets and I stripped a bolt on the timing cover and that's what I had to do
Great video,but tell do one follow the same procedure when installing new lifters?
In my experience the answer is YES . New lifters will be full of oil . So just to be safe check each new lifter making sure that the plunge will move with the pressure of your finger .
what if a lifter is stuck open and won't bleed or takes a lot of time to bleed? can it cause a clunk?
If I can give some advice back...when you put the lifters back align the holes on the lifters to the holes in the head...then turn the enjin over for a minute without the spark plugs until you see the oil light go off.. before starting the engine.
Which holes on the head?
Do not use a vice, use a paperclip to push the ball valve down and release the pressure
Hmm time to check compression and do a leak down test.
If the lifters will no longer bleed down due to weak spring pressure, how does the lifter bleed down when the valve components increase in length due to engine heat? Does your explanation also mean that if a lifter ever increases to its full length due to a loose valve rocker that the only way to get the valves back into adjustment is to disassemble the engine and manually bleed the lifters?
In my 85 g-body service manual it says if planning to reuse lifters to rebuild them to thoroughly clean them and when reassembling fill with 10w oil.
I totally disagree with the manual. I have found that some service manuals to be totally incorrect on torque specs. Asking questions is not a bad thing no matter how long you've been pulling wrenches 😮😮
I have Howard’s cams Sbc retro roller lifters 91164n and the tech told me to not pump them
Its like the 3.5 magnum,its its soft like u want it then u het a missfire
weird situation can someone in-lighten me, after head gasket, timing and diy valve job. bleed lifters. 1 of the 4 cylinders compression (265 psi) other 3- 150 ish. what is going on??? can a lifter, cam lobe, stuck valves in this cylinder create such high pressure??? no fluids (no gas or Antifreeze in cylinder) WTF!???? any information would be greatly appreciated.
I like it how u explain 😏
Apakah yang oerlu dilakukan sekiranya alat itu tersekat? Bagaimana pula jika ianya longgar dan dapat digerakkan turun naik dengan mudah tanpa tekanan?
One guy says pump them up.... one guy says bleed them down.... I think I'll do both
Just started doing this on a Ingenium 2.0 diesel, then discovered the workshop manual says do not compress them
So o would think that slowly torqueing the cam should bleed them
Rookie mistake, head gasket & timing chain . installed yesterday took all day, went smooth. until big test crank, crank, crank, no start (oooh Sh#!t !!!!) thought about the only thing that caught my attention. some lifters where squishy some where rock hard, Guess I hurried this part. compression cylinder 1- 140 cylinder 2- 60-65 cylinder 3-110 cylinder 4-130 almost fires over, no start Timing spot on, gaskets new.
Literally did the exact same thing rebuilding my head. And I just saw this video and realized all my lifters were rock hard. Crank no start and low compression 🤦♂️ though it was timing too
How would you bleed them is there a nipple no
Read some of the other comments below... it'll make more sense.
I don’t think I’ve seen two SmokeyRams in the same place for decades 🧐
You should see all of our other Smokey stuff, including the stuff in the case behind Danny. We also have Smokey’s piston knurler and his shop door!
Ive never bled the lifters in 20 years working on cars and never had a problem
He's the type of mechanic that will disrespect your entire life tree if you don't understand everything about every car and all it's components . And make you feel stupid for even bringing it in to a mechanic and not knowing how repair it yourself
buy a plastic gclap, drill small hole is easy for diy
If you put new ones on you don’t have to do all that
Why not just buy new lifters?
LOL, why do so many just toss a set of lifters in without testing them and then blame the lifter after losing a cam?
Really old and dirty oil coming out.
Get to the point. Way to much blathering
Tell them about pumping the lifters up when new😊