How to Polish Epoxy Resin for a Crystal Clear Finish | Incredible Solutions Online
Whether you’ve just finished sanding your epoxy or you’re just looking for a deeper, shinier finish, watch this tutorial video full of tips and tricks to learn how to best polish your epoxy resin projects.
* Promise Epoxy is the rebranding of our previous sister companies Incredible Solutions and ProMarine Supplies. Same incredible formulas, new label and name.
Promise Epoxy's polishing compound will really take your shine to the next level.Working in small sections when using a polishing compound will ensure an even shine throughout your project. Don’t settle for dull epoxy projects - start buffing and you’ll see the shine!
The polishing compound is ideal for removing small surface scratches as well as the final step in the process of sanding and polishing your epoxy projects. The polishing compound can be used as often as your project needs. The included cleaner is a great epoxy surface cleaner and it makes the perfect finishing touch for your projects.
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I purchased a used one as the piece is a bit pricey, but the machine kzhead.infoUgkxG6fbm3cHBd7CNTjk5D-dwYe9c9tCB9ZN has surpassed my expectations. We sand small parts by hand often, sized around 1"x1/2," and specifically look for a piece that's designed to be vertical. The motor has plenty of torque and great speed settings. The only inconvenience I had is that the disk measures 5" where we trim 6" stick-and-sand disks down easily by mounting it then cutting with a box cutter.
great video but i didnt get anything from it at all. Not enough comparison your lighting didn't let us see both finishes in detail and we leave the still not knowing which would be best for us. it would have been great at the end if you told us the differences in both finishes and showed us a bit better.
I made a video of me building a epoxy dinner tray but I stopped sanding the clear epoxy at 800. I wish I had seen this video before I did mine. Good job and now I know for next time
Why go all the way to 4000 grit? Good polishing compound will gloss it up nice after 2K to 3000. Good tip on Abralon. Also - its a toss up between the labor of full cut & buff, vs fine sand, then topcoat. Which have you found to be less labor? You still have to do minor buffing to topcoated panel
Where can I find the putty? Or something similar?
Which is better according to your experience?
Hi I have to buff out a table I did for my customer because there’s some blemishes in it and some hard points sticking up so I’m gonna have to sand it down like on the video and buff it out how long do you have to wait before you can buff it out? Does it have to completely cure 100%? Or what’s the timeframe before I can sand and buff out the blemishes?
Is this just rebranded auto rubbing compound?
What is use polishing compund name please
So are you recommending the epoxy topcoat? I've spent a lot of time with the stages of sanding all the way to 4000 and haven't done a top coat on anything. Also, how does this process work for pieces where it's a combination of wood and epoxy? Everything I make includes both.
Did you ever figure out an answer to this?
I have pieces I’ve sanded to 4000~ and I still don’t know what to do. It’s still scratched up from the sandpaper. Like it feels nice and smooth but there’s scratches everywhere (and bubbles because we’re new to it and don’t have all the right tools). I’ve tried washing the epoxy but that doesn’t do anything.
Apparently you can buff it out with a car cutting compound and buffing pads. I have the same problem on my knife handle.
@@bearlyplaying I am not sure if you still need an answer to your question, but swirl marks (spider webs) are due to epoxy dust building up on your paper and then scratching the surface you are trying to sand. Use mesh sanding discs (Abralon), always connect your orbital sander to your vacuum cleaner and change a disc as soon as there's a buildup. Once you reach 1000, switch to using wet sanding discs. Hope this helps. :)
@@bearlyplaying when mixing epoxy, always measure amounts don't guess, mix slow by hand with a clean stir stick, pour to another cup slowly with cup at a tilt. don't pour to bottom of cup but rather aim for side to avoid bubbles. seal all wood surfaces that will be in epoxy before hand or you will get bubbles, during these steps being impatient is not your friend. don't get one of those auto orbital buffers, they don't have the speed, etc. get a decent polisher/buffer like 5 or 6 inch is good, i have the hook and loop type but there are also stick pads for some, these are also best tool for sanding everything also since any tool that just goes back and forth or is under powered will leave marks you don't want. dry sand 80/100 up to 320/400, wet sand 600 up to 2k. then use cutting pad and cutting compound to remove any big scratches etc. then use medium polishing disk and polishing medium compound to polish., then use fine polishing compound and disk. this is a lot of work but working your way through it slowly seems to work best for me. lastly, if putting another layer of epoxy over another don't leave scratches, etc., in layer and pour over it, they may show through later on.
how to remove swirling on epoxy resin sir
So which way was better? I was watching waiting for the results.
Well you can either take it down or re-pour. I think the point of this video is that you can do either and most importantly, this company sells products that will help either situation.
When starting to polish what should my rpm range be?
start slow. then go to fast. multiple passes
Personally I find after hitting it with 800-1000 grit (depending on the item), top coating with epoxy works best for what I do..
Really? Epoxy scratches so easy.
Of the few videos on this subject I've seen thus far, there seems to be an obsession with using IPA to wipe down between coats. Even if it weren't for shortages of alcohol currently, wouldn't this be better achieved simply by dust-removal with vacuum and brush attachment?
No, IPA lifts up the epoxy dust and whatever it doesn’t lift up it absorbs into the dust, breaks it down, and evaporates it. You will still have residue if you vacuum and your final product will end up cloudy. If you try top coating that way, you will have a layer of cloudy residue and need to sand passed that layer to gain shine back.
@@washyrose5904 hmmm...one might have success in lifting away fine dust with /any/ wet medium, whether it's soapwater followed by a rinse, or lacquer thinner. It's just a means to stick the dust to a wipe. The trick with any such method is to use a vast amount of towels so as not to just spread the dust around, and personally I don't see enough benefit to doing this. IPA certainly isn't capable of breaking down epoxy dust, any more than it can break down cured epoxy (there's no solvent anyone would want to use that could do so.) Compressed-air-nozzle used in a dust-extracting environment (as simple as blowing a fan across the work surface) is my go-to method.
Jesus beginning to hate epoxy. I can epoxy board with wood and never have issues. Usually use oil or another topcoat. Wanted to try flood coat over whole piece so I did and sanded it 3 times from bubbles. Finally no bubbles but now cannot avoid dust particles in finish no matter what I do. So I'm trying to find out if you can just polish them out without the entire sanding process. I've also done that is past polished up to 12000 and still never looks like glass do I'm kinda at a loss. Can I just polish it with compounds and buff it out or?
Yes, surely, from quite a few epoxy-polishing videos here...but you have to buy the [fill in proprietary relabeled product name] polish...
doesn't matter what polish you use. BUT make sure you have a sander or a polisher machine. Doing it by hand isn't gonna work. If you have bubbles, do a flood coat and then use a heat gun to pop the bubbles before it dries. Then when you sand, make sure to clean the dust off between every single stage otherwise you're gonna scratch up the next layer with the dust from the previous layer and accomplish nothing. Use rubbing alcohol or a vacuum or a microfiber towel and tack cloth.
WHAT HAPPEND TO THE FIRST ONE U WAS POLISHING .WAS A BIT CONFUSING TO BE HONEST .
We're not sure where the confusion is. The clear panel is shown at the end with the final polish vs epoxy topcoat. We switch to the blue panel to show that the same process can be done on colored epoxy resin. You can see the results of both at the end!
@@incrediblesolutions296 what kind of pad and buffer do you use in this project?
@@incrediblesolutions296 From a number of comments here, "...so WHAT'S your conclusion?" is a general response. Maybe it's a matter of video quality, but I don't think anyone is seeing a pronounced difference between the painstakingly-polished vs flood-coated. So if there's a clear conclusion, you DO need to spell it out - if not by audio, then in writing.
@incredible solutions It seems like everyone likes that you preformed this experiment as we were all curious ourselves what the results would be. But we didn't get the results because apparently you filmed it on a pre-microphone potatoe. We weren't sure what we were looking at and then you threw us for an even bigger loop when you started buffing the sample that we thought was done and would be used to compare only for you to magically make both samples turn blue. Maybe when you see this next time st the library you could hit us with the data like how long each one spent, how much each option costs, which one looks better and any other pros and cons you may have recorded. I'll be glad to give you a thumbs up when you do. Until then, you just wasted our time
@@davids1681 Agree, the conclusion to this video left me feeling frustrated as I could hardly tell the difference and it seemed rushed with poor quality video.
I will never understand why ppl do flat Slabs of material. That’s the least effective way to showcase dynamic polishing. Most ppl can manage how to sand perfectly flat, thick material.!
Isn't it going to rub off, when it's cleaned with a harsh kitchen spray or something, even dish detergent, or on to people's clothing, etc? Since it's just a compound/polish? I feel, like a car, that table would be totally cloudy again in a couple months, but unevenly of course, and look terrible.?? Am I wrong? peace *I actually have your 3 stage auto product right now. I was thinking about using it on a table, but I can't get past what I just described above. I see respectable makers use polish compounds, but Idk, I see a lot of things, lol. .. I also feel like I would taste it, and smell it maybe.
yep... mis-understanding what cutting polish compounds and cutting disks do. They actually cut the paint/epoxy at a super fine grit, technically you are removing, not adding. Coming from car paint world with clear coat 2ks; its basically the same exact process.
@@Aerogrow Lol, yes, I painted 2 doors and a tailgate last summer, matching the factory paint on my Laramie, and I had a lot of trouble. Actually I started 2 summers before that, lmao. First try, primer solids spew out of my new paint gun, like lava, appaerently, just globs of solids instantly etched into the metal, fuuuddd... sand it, try again, and again, and again... you know the drill, must have done it 6 times, lol... But after he answered me here, a lot of things clicked over the last week. Feel like a new man! .. Now I'm staring at a table, the epoxy won't level, lol... never ends Peace
Confusing...
We would be more than happy to clear anything up for you - reach out to our customer service team at info@incrediblesolutionsonline.com!
This needs to be organized better. Very confusing at the end. Tried to show too many variables.
Was the point of the video to show that you don't have to sand up to 10k and buff out, all you have to do is a flood coat bc it will fill all the scratches and imperfections? That's what I saw.
yes
This isnt a how to. It's a commercial.
Kill the music!👎
just a thought but why don't you but good epoxy? you pieces looked like shit after they dryied! my epoxy cures to a crystal clear piece of art!! buy better products