2011 Land Rover Range Rover
PATREON: / curmudgeontransmission
Supplier Links:
Superior: superiortransmission.com/
Transtar: www.transtar1.com/
WIT: www.wittrans.com/
Sonnax: www.sonnax.com/
Teckpak/Fitzall: www.teckpak-fitzall.com/
Transgo: transgo.com/
Precision of New Hampton: gopnh.com/
Atec Transtool: www.toolsource.com/atec-trans...
ATSG: atsg.com/
ATRA: www.atra.com/
Fatsco: www.fatsco.net/online-store
Jaggi"s: www.jaggiimport.com/home.html
Slauson's: www.slauson-transmissionparts...
Standard Transmission & Gear: standardtransmission.com/
Wade's: www.wadetransmission.com/parts/
Bishop's: www.bishopengine.com/
Awesome!! Can’t wait to see the reassembly of this transmission 👍🏽 your transmission content is bad ass!
Thanks! Did not get to rebuild it but still some good info. kzhead.info/sun/f8Oklpl9pnyBiKs/bejne.html
Muchas Gracias amigazo, excelente sus aportaciones, Gracias 👍
Thank you.
Thanks for the video. Ive a new to me 6hp28 that had done 165k miles without a service. I serviced it along with bridge seal and sleeves, all new ZF parts and fluid. The old fluid had a burned smell. I went ahead with the service anyway. I did not reset adaptations. Everything went ok and the shifting noticeably improved. A few weeks later I was on a long drive and would have been in 6th doing approx 60mph for extended period. I slowed down for a junction and noticed a burned clutch smell, a car behind me flashed me and said my car stinks of burned clutch! The smell dissapeared pretty quickly and the gearbox shifted perfectly fine at all times, i never noticed any shifting problems at all. I rechecked for leaks and there were none, fluid level is perfect, drips at 40c. I assume there is internal damage, just wondering from your experience, what causes these transmissions to burn the fluid? I am a mechanic but ive never dealt with these zfs beyond a service! Any response appreciated!
Thanks for watching. I would not have serviced it under those circumstances. These along with all the 6HP variants have bushing wear issues that cause the torque converter to slip and burn the fluid. They have valve body issues also. I have been able to the valve body so far with the Sonnax Zip kit. Probably going to need at least that along with a bushing kit , filter, torque converter and rebuild kit with clutches. Maybe steels also. Won't know till you get in there.
Obrigado pelo video!
Thanks for watching.
Is it possible to remove the pump assembly without taking the valve body off?
No it is not.
Hey Tom, greetings from Germany! Can you tell me what that thin rod is, right underneath the valve body? Is that the gearshift? I want to swap my 6HP26 for a 6HP28 and just noticed that (for BMW) there are ones with electronic gearshift and ones with cable pull to change gears. Both, my 26 and 28 have these rods but I'm still not to sure whether I bought the right transmission or not. Thank you!
It is the park rod. They will both have it. The cable shift one will have quadrants on the selector shaft. The electronic one will have an extremely strong spring on it and only 1 position.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you for your answer Sir. Do you think it's possible to swap these rods? Or is there something fundamentally different in the 6HP28 so that it won't work? I'm really disappointed that I made this mistake...
I don't know for a fact. The 26 is first generation and the 28 is second so there may be a chance it is different.
Good job, is sonnax zip required? Or can be normal oem parts
Thanks. You are going to need to address the valve body problems. So either a Zip kit or new Valve Body.
Good
Thanks