Bambu Lab - CC-HUB Lite - AMS + Heated Chamber for Bambu Lab X1 - X1C - P1S - X1E
2024 ж. 20 Нау.
3 500 Рет қаралды
Here's a project that, in my humble opinion, I find interesting. It's a new AMS that not only dehumidifies 4 spools but also heats the printing chamber to enable the printing of increasingly exotic materials that require constant temperatures above 55 degrees.
Let me know what you think and if you're interested in the product.
You can find more information at this link:
www.buymeacoffee.com/emazzaro...
Would love to see this! Printed the drawer’s project. Awesome gob on that C.C. Looking forward to this one!
That door bell chime is really annoying. Went to the door. No one there. Then bye-bye KZheadr
LOL
Very interesting! Might I recommend the following: - Have the option or alternative of having it be closed bottom to be placed aside from the printer and not on top - Rework the outer shell to be more Bambu Lab like, honestly, it is ugly but only in comparison to the clean lines and rounded rectangular refinement of the minimalist X1/P1 series; just extend the shape upwards, or like the AMS, simply mimic the shape in a different scale set. - Integrate a PTFE Y- or 4-way splitter out the side for those crazy people who want to use non AMS filaments on the side (this would likely add extra complication that may not be worth it though) - Include an option that is 'dumb', the extra smart features will turn too many off and seems like a soldering project that is a whole other hobby. - talk more about desiccant/dehumidification and how to refill or regulate them. - in-set the bowden tube fitting like the AMS connectors are, or turn them 90-degrees so that the unit can be placed against a wall better. The AMS's bowden has a sharp turn out it's back for this reason partially. - Include an option to print the clear cover in sections that can fit on the X/P series 256mm bed (I'm assuming it's in PETG since it's shown with styrations?) - See if you can reduce the depth, the finger cutouts for the screen sleep and e-stop buttons isn't the serve you think it is, makes it look organic and stalagmite like, these detract from the clever work you've done on the inside by turning people off from it's outsides (people often choose mods based on their asthetic) - Include information about how the extra parts are acquired, e.g. are you selling the non printed parts as a kit? and/or providing amazon links? etc. what's the cost for the additional parts? - delete the doorbell sound, seriously, it's aggravating like nails on a chalk board to people in 2024. All around great work, I wish you much success, don't get discouraged by the negative comments, hundreds have seen this video and nodded that this is cool but didn't leave a comment.
Update: hadn't realized you were who designed the drawers (dresser), these are epic and you should be proud, take that aesthetic to this product!
Well, well, well, still trying to recover from the whirlwind your comment stirred up! Talk about a mixed bag of emotions. Is this your usual feedback style, or did you dial up the sass just for me? LOL. But hey, jokes aside, it's a bit of a downer to hear the shape didn't quite hit the mark for you. Guess I was backed into a corner there. The CC-HUB Lite was born to break the mold, after all. If you want something resembling the Bambu, might as well whip up a regular CC-HUB, modular and practically shaped like an X1C. kzhead.infox20L2H4KM4o kzhead.info/sun/obuGmqaCpJZ4fpE/bejne.html The product's definitely gonna hit the shelves as print files, but I'll provide in all the electronics. Now, as for the drying feature, let me tell you, there's not much to it. Automatic dehumidifier, automatic heater, all controlled by that slick screen upfront. I HATE that desiccant gel - those little balls are everywhere and last about as long as I do in bed with my wife... LOL. Every single part has been meticulously designed to be printed by a Bambu with a 256x256 bed, and truth be told, all my projects are meant to be printed on the printers they'll applied to. Oh, and that crack about the stalagmite? Priceless! LOL. Truly a brilliant analogy! The kit's currently getting a tune-up for the print parts, and I reckon it'll be ready for testing in a few weeks. Can't give you an exact date just yet, but believe me, I'm giving it my all. And speaking of that doorbell, the only way to make it stop ringing would've been to slide me a cold one. Now you'll just have to endure its symphony in all my future videos... LOL. Thanks a ton for your overflowing feedback; really means a lot. Catch you on the flip side.
@@ChuckleCraft3D Not gonna lie, I too disliked that design and thought an X1C extending-like shape would fit better... but: I think it is just because of that ugly opaque front and mismatched colors tough. If the front was clear and the colors matching, the CC-HUB Lite would present itself a lot more professionally. If you made a printable template for bending 4-6mm thick acrylic glass to the right shape, and adjust the hinges accordingly, it could work out. (Bending can be done with a cheap hot air gun that costs less than a roll of PLA, did it myself). I guess getting the acrylic glass in the right size plus the trial & error with bending would be the barrier then for many though. Maybe just print the front in the same color as the body and add one or multiple as big as possible cut-out windows so you can use straight acrylic glass. Also, like mentioned above: either a black P1S for the animation would have looked more fitting/uniform - or the CC-HUB Lite should have been given the same color as the X1C.
Looks cool, but i prefer to keep my AMS to the side to minimise wobble and also for easy access to the orint head. This is a retrofit of the AMS, correct? Seems complex, but i am very interested.
Hey buddy, let's just say this project is born out of a need for more space for spools and to kick my arch-nemesis, DESICCANT GEL, to the curb! Then, as I was sketching out the OG CC-HUB, it hit me... not everyone wants to build a spool warehouse with a dehydrator and temperature control. Maybe I can whip up something just a tad bigger than an AMS and not only dry filaments but also turn the print chamber into a bona fide heated chamber. That's the plan! Keep those fingers crossed, let's hope the test is a smash hit!
Any issues with the AMS Assist Motor overheating running this way?
I'm in the test fase, more info in 3 weeks!
I like it!
Thanks Mate!
Neat. I like the dehydrator aspect. But as is, it's not for people with multiple AMS units. I have three, and none are kept on top of the printer.
Hey, thanks! Yeah, absolutely, this model isn't aimed at pros or hardcore enthusiasts, but I'm currently testing out this CC-HUB product from Limedexx (which is basically me collaborating with other enthusiasts). Presentatio video kzhead.info/sun/obuGmqaCpJZ4fpE/bejne.html Versatility post www.buymeacoffee.com/emazzarol/cc-hub-versatility Let me know what you think!
I went to the door three times thought it was kids mucking about
LOL
Where to get one
Hey buddy, you know how long I've been searching for something like this and never found it?... LOL I think I can wrap up the product, I'm talking about touching up the design and final assembly with strength testing, let's say by the third week of April. Testing is crucial, you know. Then I'll need at least another week for documentation and instructions. There's quite a bit of work, believe me, and unfortunately, I'm in this adventure alone. Talk to you soon.
Any news on this?
@Kenagon Hey buddy, so here's the deal with the CC-HUB Lite. Temperature resistance testing is almost done. I'm redesigning the front door to fit two transparent windows. Had some deformations that need reinforcements. Got a couple of oversized points that need trimming down; probably these are causing the deformation. Waiting on some electronic pieces to arrive. I want to streamline this part of the project as much as possible; I don't want to create a product that takes a month of programming to get it running LOL. Hope this response meets your request. Catch you soon, Enrico
nice but a little over the top editing
This video allowed me to discover the doorbell as my new most hated sound effect on KZhead. The intro being half the length of the video is so great too!
Hey, and to think I even committed to pulling off something like this. Anyway, I was hoping to get some feedback on the product. I'm definitely not a video maker! LOL
@ChuckleCraft3D As far as the project goes... I actually like it! It does seem like a rather involved DIY requiring the right materials to not warp and fall apart after the first high temp 10 hour print (full spools are heavy!). Is this something you're implementing now? That would make an amazing video series that would generate a lot of interest. It's just my opinion that removing the effects and long intros would help focus people on the content.
Mate, thanks don't worry about the intros, It has been a test on the intros, basically I failed.... Getting back to the project, it's great to hear you like it! The design has already been printed, and I'm fine-tuning the parts for assembly, tweaking their features. Next up is the operational test. As for durability, I'm pretty confident it'll hold up. Check out this video of another product of mine that inspired me. kzhead.infox20L2H4KM4o See yo soon mate!
@@ChuckleCraft3D Very cool! I like your approach of just keeping the internals and making the AMS enclosure a functional part of the printer as well! Looking forward to your updates!
Looks interesting, too bad getting additional info is behind a paywall.
Hey, thanks for reaching out. However, you might want to try the link again because what you mentioned doesn't seem to be coming up for me... The update post is public, though, and if you'd like to buy me a beer, that's always appreciated.
Since the most basic dehumidifier is nothing more than a regulated heater + fan and a small opening... why use 2 separate instances? I mean why one heater in the "dehumidifier" and then the extra heater for the chamber? Why not simply use two small, cheap 230V AC (or 110) fans to route heated air from a duty-cycled 230V AC heating element either into the AMS, or into the print-chamber, or both? +Edit: And separate the parts with a thin wall nevertheless. If it is not separated, a good portion of the total area surface needed to keep heated is now occupied by the top/AMS. The heated area there ends up wasted while printing. And the dehumidifier deeds to dehumidify not only the AMS but the not airtight print chamber as well. Also there will be constantly coming in moist air while not printing then, therefore you'd need to cycle the AMS dehumidifier on/off way more than necessary which can increase your power bill significantly over the year. Or keep it simple, not separated, and just use one fan and one heater for both tasks. Heating the chamber or dehumidifying the whole unit.+ The small hole opening and closing can be realized (and automated) by just a thin TPU flap that covers an appropriately sized hole from the inside, like a one-way valve. For dehumidifying, the AMS could get fresh air via the flap bending inwards when the (partially) routed suction of the dryer-fan kicks in... A lot fewer parts and electronics needed, even cheaper maybe... but might be still as effective I presume. Depends on the dehumidifier shown in the video being a bought 20$ one or your own creation. Also, I'm sure you have watched CNC Kitchen's "Solid-State Dehumidifier" video, right? Not that this would incite one to want to re-draw the whole dehumidifier plan after watching 😏
@SebasTian-od7oz Hey buddy, sorry for the delay in getting back to you, but I took a couple of days to mull over what you said: First off, I wanna welcome you to my realm of ideas! My goal is to make a product that's easy to make, put together, and use for everyone. That said, let's talk about the dehumidifier I'm testing. It's basically a gadget used in server racks to cut down on humidity. It's got a fan heater and a condensation dehumidifier with a water drainage tube, with a capacity of 1.5 cubic meters. You buy it, install it, set it, and then forget about it. Now, that CNC Kitchen solution? Awesome. But it's a bit out of my league, if you catch my drift. I know my limits and I'm cool with it, LOL. Let's talk about the extra heater now. During tests on the CC-HUB, with a 2-module setup and 8 coils inside, we managed to drop internal humidity from 45% to 18% in 2 hours and 10 minutes. Temperature went from 21 degrees Celsius to 44. We can't push it further, so that's why I'm adding a heater. With that, I can even hit 70 degrees, not that I wanna melt anything, but you know, LOL. In the CC-HUB warehouse, it's for handling more exotic filaments; in the Lite version, it's for controlling the climate in the print chamber. As for the performance drop due to the non-sealed print chamber: companies using exotic materials store them in environments with controlled humidity and temperature. My solution does just that. It never shuts down and it's always ready to step in if humidity and temperature aren't up to par. In terms of energy expenses, the dehumidifier chugs 40 watts per hour and the heater 30. Oh, and I almost forgot, the dehumidifier and the heater together cost 32 bucks. Your insights are spot-on, and I hope I've been clear and understandable in my responses. There are definitely fancier and more sophisticated solutions out there, but I'm aiming for something easy to replicate and cost-effective. See yuo soon. Enrico
@@ChuckleCraft3D Hi Enrico, no worries, I am patient :) And thanks for explaining in such detail! There is only one thing I don't quite get about your choice of dehumidifier yet: A condensation dehumidifier (I guess it is a Peltier element + 2 aluminium heat sinks + 2 fans, not many other possibilities for that price) works by cooling down the air that needs to be dehumidified. Cool air can hold less humidity. So you cool it down by passing it through the cooled heat sink, until the air reaches 100% relative humidity. Then condensation droplets form, which you drain with the tube. So far I'm with you. That cools the chamber though, not heats it, lol. But wait, you surely have the hot side contained in the CC-HUB as well - and then use the cool, now dry air to cool the hot side of the Peltier element? Isn't your resulting temperature the same as before then? 😆 But wait again, I begin to understand as I write now... since the hot side usually gets much hotter than that little bit of coolness you get on the cold side, you basically transform all of the energy input into heat anyway. You just split the heat first into "-20% heat" and "+120% heat" with the Peltier, before your total is all the energy converted into heat at the end anyway... I guess... right? ...at least I feel "kind of" right 😅 "Cool" and simple solution. So 70W in total... that sounds a bit power hungry. 24h*0,07kW means 1,68kWh per day. Let's use a price of 0,3€/kWh so we get a simple 0,5€ per day. That's 180€ per year. Ouch. Ah, but I'm stupid. It won't run full blast 356 days a year, won't it? 😆 Question 1: Got any test data on how many kWh per day it consumes in a CC-HUB lite sitting on a Bambulab, and it is ONLY dehumidifying and the printer not running? Must be pretty low... (lets not go for storing the filament at a higher than room temperature for now). Question 2 (yes/no): Since you said you can add the 40W extra heat if the chamber needs the heating: Your controller will be able to forcefully switch on the dehumidifier, regardless of the dehumidifier saying: "the air is dry enough, I won't start"? Question 3: I heard sometimes the chamber gets too hot and simply opening the door is not sufficient... Before a CC-HUB lite installation you would have been able to lift the glass away. What do you do now with the rather "immobile" CC-HUB lite sitting on top, when you want to print simple PLA, conditions get too hot and opening the door is not enough? ++++ If the dehumidifying membrane topic interests you: I was looking for a cheap and tiny solution to power a Rosahl dehumidifier membrane type M-1J1R (1W power draw, 67€, for up to 125 liter container) But they have such pesky PSU requirements: -) 3,0±0,1VDC constant voltage on a PSU with foldback or constant current limiting (1A). -) Max. 0,2Vpp ripple noise. -) Min Voltage in overload state: 1,8V. -) Hiccup overload protection not suitable. ...bla bla bla. I will maybe buy such a membrane and try and see what happens if: I hook it up to a 10€ MeanWell IRM-05-3.3 (thumb-sized 230VAC to 3,3VDC 1,25W) with a simple resistor voltage divider in between to get from 3,3V to 3,0V. If it runs, great. If it gets fried... well damn. 😆
@@SebasTian-od7oz | Buddy, you've thrown me for a loop big time... haha. I'm no electronics whiz and can't rattle off stuff about impedances, rated powers, or peak waves, sorry. I'm just a guy who reads up, gathers info, and uses logic to figure out solutions. A little preamble to help you understand how I arrived at this solution: I know many of us have put our printers in basements or garages, otherwise who'd endure the noise those babies make!! LOL Humidity and temperature are out of control in those areas of our homes, so it's not just important to dehumidify the filament but also to climate-control the print chamber. I need heavy-duty dehumidification. My past experiences came in handy in finding a compact and low-cost condensation dehumidifier controllable via RS485 protocol. I don't care if the chamber isn't completely airtight; it has a capacity of 1.5 cubic meters now, so it seemed more than enough. I might have had issues with temperature loss due to walls made of PETG or ASA or ABS, so I thought to compensate for this loss with an additional static heater. All of this controlled by a touch screen or rotary knob ESP32. This project is specifically designed for those who need to print exotic material that warps quite a bit if not printed in a heated chamber. If I need to print PLA, no problem, I remove the CC-HUB lite from above the printer and place it on a nearby surface; the bottom seals should ensure airtightness of the container, and we're good to go. But again, the CC-HUB was designed for specific conditions. However, and here's the point where I'm banging my head, programming the knob is really complex for me. I'm struggling; I take small steps every day, but it's tough for me. With the knob, you not only view the status of the CC-HUB but also set temperatures, humidity, lights, with timing functions, all also via WiFi. I hope I've explained and made myself understood, or at least I hope that you at least understand something... haha.
@@ChuckleCraft3D Fair enough buddy :) I see why you need that solution now. Ah yes, just setting the CC-HUB lite on a flat surface makes sense 😅 I will not need that powerful of a dehumidifier I think, but hey, once you have figured out your internals and released the project I'll maybe buy the files and build in my own solution 😉
amazing concept....gonna be honest tho, its ugly, like supppppper ugly, I beg you to redesign it, at least just the lid portion, bambus athetics will get ruined
Haha, thanks for the honesty! I appreciate your candor.
@@ChuckleCraft3D everything else about it it perfect, chefs kiss, the 3d printed lid will just look terrible, maybe glass panels? Something that size tempered would only cost about 20-30 $ at my local glass shop
@@danielbolanos6389 Hey buddy, thanks for the compliments. About the glass... I'm not entirely convinced you can get away with $30. It's a curved glass, 40x33 cm, with an irregular radius. Get a quote and let me know! Talk soon.
@@ChuckleCraft3D curved no, curved is expensive, maybe a redesign to accommodate a flat tempered glass panel? Or 2 smaller ones side by side to make a door, I feel like even the best translucent filament will not look good
@@danielbolanos6389 Sure, I understand, Tesla truck style... but I didn't want to design an aquarium; I was more interested in utilizing the infill to create effects. Backlit could make sense... what do you think?