SECRETS They DON’T Want You To Know - Ceramic Coatings & Waxes p. 1
What are the differences between traditional waxes, spray ceramic coatings and wipe on ceramic coatings? With some much confusion its easy to be led astray by lies and false claims by brands that think they have it all. Let's discuss the secrets they don't want you to know about ceramic coatings & waxes.
UPDATED: Torture test video - • Don’t Fall For This - ...
Jimbo's Ceramic Spray Coating: jimbosdetailing.com/products/...
Or on Amazon: amzn.to/3UzD9fY
** Check out the Don't Pre Rinse Video Here: // • SECRETS They DON'T Wan...
The Science Behind Ceramic Coatings: Unravel the technicalities and benefits of ceramic coatings.
How do they work?
Are they really better than traditional waxes?
Debunking Myths about Waxes: Learn the truth about car waxes and how they compare to modern coatings.
Application Tips and Tricks: Get professional insights on applying and maintaining coatings and waxes for long-lasting protection and shine.
Cost Analysis: Is investing in ceramic coatings worth it? We break down the costs and long-term benefits.
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#CarDetailing
My Toyota is 26 years old. Aside from the lids, the body finish shines like new. I like Mother's. 8yrs ago, I used their 3 step process except I used cleaning wax instead of clay bar, because the 1st step pure polish restored the shine way beyond my expectations, and now I reapply Mother's 3rd step pure carnuba wax every 4 months, well before the wax already on my vehicle wears off the finish. I use Lucas spray wax after each wash. I Rain-X all the glass. Between washes I wipe the pollen and pollution dirt off every 2 days so I don't have to wash my van for a month or more! Keep your car finish slippery and dirt will repel. Re-waxing my van by hand takes me about an hour now that I keep up with protecting the clear coat. Mother's #3 carnuba wax lasts about 6 months. My 23yr old barn rescue Harley shines like new also. Dupont paste Chrome polish makes old chrome brilliantly shine.
Didnt clean my bmw e39 530d for about 9 years, just windshield with ceramic coating twice a year, looking nothing special but I dont care ;)
Lids?
@@blautens RU serious? ROOF AND HOOD The paint is OEM 26yrs old. Never touched. If there wasn't soo much engine close to the hood, the paint would still be good.
Jimbo, as I'm in my home cellar shop reconditioning my and the wife's summer wheels, I really enjoyed your tutorial here. Very good points! Good reasons to have a varied selection of products in the quiver depending on needs and results. Keep up the good work. Shine on you crazy diamond!
100%. Thanks for watching and I’m glad these are helpful!
Big fan of the spritz on after wash ceramic washes.. Meguires Hybrid Ceramic Wax A major advantage: It doesn't mess up plastic trim like paste wax! This is huge.. no more wax in crevices etc.. Wipes clean.. can even easily release light stuck specks (bug parts?) on your front.
Phenomenal video backed with real world information. Thank you for taking the time to share.
Glad it was helpful!
LOVE THIS CHANNEL FOR THESE COMPARISONS!!!!
Thank you!
I agree on the safety of products being so underrated. We’re working with these products all day and the accumulation of toxins over time is hazardous. This is why I love Sonax products as this is a main priority for them.
Yea.... It's sooooo important in today's society of snowflakes.
Thanks Jimbo, look forward to your updated cerakote ceramic video. While it was unfortunate it was taken down I just wanted to tell you how helpful and important such a video was when such coatings performance determine whether we choose to use the coating professionally. Currently the only media about Cerave ceramic is the ones praising it to be some revolutionary bulletproof coating which is clearly misrepresented. Thanks for what you do.
Thanks for the support. I really appreciate it and plan to keep doing more of the same.
@@autodetailingpodcast Their response to your video really tells me everything I need to know about that company. Glad I learned who to not buy from.
Can you give me a synopsis of the Cerakote video, what product and what the results were? I never saw it
@@DanielReyes-hz1qk Basically, it got destroyed in the torture test by a few rounds of wheel cleaners.
@@chrisbradley3224 Not all that surprised. I use spray waxes and spray sealants on my powder coated wheels and none of them hold up very long when I use wheel cleaners. I try to rinseless wash my wheels when I can and always make sure to reapply protectant if I end up having to use something stronger
I seem to recall years ago being pitched water sheeting over beading, because beads leave water spots. Going ceramic because I don’t want to wax every couple months anymore.
I was always told water beads act like a magnifying glass, burning the paint under the bead.
Great video thank you, and love your honesty. Although a good few years old now i really still rate Megs Ultimate Quik Wax, especially for the summer months. All the best from UK.
Nothing is easier and SHINES more than BEADMAKER!
I've used them all kind of products on my 2010 white diamond CTS from waxes to different ceramic coatings. For the last three years I've been using Meguiar's Ceramic Spray wax when I hand wash with plain water, no soap or car wash detergents. First product I have ever used that you can see the fine scratches fill-in & it doesn't seem to get as dirty even during our nasty Michigan winters. Even the polished 18" OEM wheels look almost like chrome. Owned the Caddy for 12 years, never been through a car wash & the finish looks as good as the day it was built. Gave away all my other polishes, waxes, sealers, etc. No regrets.
Hey man appreciate the honesty in your videos. Something I’ve had a hard time getting an answer for is if you have a base layer whether it’s sealant or ceramic coating how does using a topper “enhance” the underlying costs properties rather than masking them?
If you think of it in layers, putting anything on top of something else would in theory protect what’s under it. Whether it actually happens like that or not could be up for debate.
Ah gotcha. So you’re essentially masking the coating. All the properties whether it’s hydrophobics or whatever will be coming from top layer
IMO most likely. Sometimes the hydrophobic will go away from a coating but you can tell the coating is still there so to get the water to bead again you would add a “topper”. Does that make sense?
@@autodetailingpodcast yes totally thank you.
Before you start washing your vehicle, park in a shaded area but not under a tree, make sure the car surface is not hot but cool to warm, don't use a Pressure Washer, use a garden hose, use the 2 bucket method. Spray and wet down the vehicle, foam your vehicle, rinse the car, foam again, microfiber mitts soaked and soap, wash from top to bottom, sectioning off each panel, keep the wash mitt fresh by rinsing in cold water, and reapply foam suds and continue cleaning, time to rinse the whole car. Dry the car with slightly damp microfiber towel not a dry one which could scratch, or use a leaf blower which works rather well. Some people like to De-ironize (Iron Remover) their vehicle this is the time to do it. Spray and let set for about 60 to 90 seconds and Do not allow the iron remover to dry, rinse the car, using a clean damp microfiber towel wipe down and dry the car as picking up the iron remover residue. Clay Bar or Decontamination can be done, use a lubricant and always keep the car panel moist and lube, never apply pressure, your clay bar mitt, sponge, towel, or clay should glide nice and easy. Detailing a vehicle is a slow and tedious task. Now the vehicle is ready to put a sealant over the clear coat, waxed and polished. Never allow the polishing pads to become hot and move quickly across the panel evenly, change pads often and reapply the polish. I prefer to do things by hand and not using power tools. Okay, there are numerous Detailing videos. If you apply a real Ceramic Coating, it has a long cure time and you do not want to polish a vehicle that has been Ceramic Coated. Cleaning and protecting your vehicle inside out takes time, Plan on spending 6 hours minimum up to 2 days. Visual inspection of the underbody/undercarriage is time consuming as most vehicle have covers. Look for rust and crevices where water collects, time to clean the underside and near the tires, suspension linkage. Some lubrication may be needed. The outer shell or top areas of the vehicle are easy to maintain, just don't forget the bottom takes a lot of punishment and often neglected.
I am just now learning about detailing. Do you not like the foam cannon with pressure washer?
Foam cannons are amazing, however, especially if misused (intentional or misinformed) power washer can do the most harm in that case. The foam needs a smooth even coverage not blasted out at mach stupid onto the car.
Sooo is this the steps for a Million dollar car or for a Honda accord a little too much detail for something that is a daily driven car and will be washed again every week assuming If it’s someone taking care of their car.
Since when did AI care about detailing cars?
In my neighborhood a guy with a truck washes a lot of my neighbors cars. Several Rolls Royces, Mercedes and the like. All this in the hot desert sun, mid day using hard water. For me, I prefer to have my car sent to a hand wash detail place that uses soft water, shade and a whole lot of care. They charge a lot and I tip a lot for the excellent service. Too bad that after a day or two, the desert dust does a number on my cars that are all black. Oh well - they are just cars and not a lifestyle.
Thank you yes confused. Are these still considered a sealant? I looked at reviews and saw mcquires fast was good spray and wipe on.
I mix 2/3 spray wax with 1/3 spray ceramic. Seems to work well for me.
So then we’re right back where we started and we have to wax regularly to maintain an awesome shine
everything is a circle
So was the control uncoated? Because I didn't notice a difference between any of the sections at the end!
After 10 years I’ve been trying to figure out why these ceramic coating products don’t contain ceramic. 😮
I'm trying to figure out why my ceramic heater does shine like my ceramic vehicle does. 🙂
@@richardr9294 Are you normal?
@mrBDeye are you?
It has …. There is ceramic in it …. Look at the word “ceramic “. Ta da ! There you go 😂
All sorts of funny.
i like the griots ceramic spray wax. makes shine a bit and makes water bead/ shedding water off very nice. I wash the car, spray while wet and towel dry. then apply a dry wipe on/wipe off.
Nothing is easier and SHINES more thatn BEADMAKER!
Easy-peasy. Never had so many compliments. Car looks great for a very long time. Recommended to a ton of folks. However, it’s not going to give you the protection of a carnuba wax you would get from winter salt and such.
I had ceramic pro do a 2 yr guarantee on my prius a couple yrs ago seems silly to spend 2k on a 9 yr old prius, i do love the water sheeting but it needs to be re done on the hood can i put another type on myself?
What is your opinion of turtle wax paste wax with carnauba wax and Si02 in it. I think it's their effort to give you both water beading and glow at the same time.
ya it could be..i dont have much experience with it personally, i think sprays are the way to go.
Great video
Thank you.
Yes, protect your health at all cost
Awesome vid. Subbed! Ill be watching more of these since I just got a black car after swearing them off for last 20 years😂😂
thanks for the sub! Good luck with your black car...here to help!
As someone who has to deal with to moderate to heavy dust in my travel/parking areas, static that products leave (or don't leave) is a big deal. Would like to know which products leave a less or more 'static-y' surface.
waxes will attract more dust, I try to make my products have a charge to them so they wont attract as much dust, but its not always possible.
Anyone else notice how the untreated panel initially had a solid "puddle" of water, which seemed to prove the point.....but then it sheeted off absolutely perfectly, in a way none of the others did at all. Beads are great for photos, but what you really want is no water sat on your paint.
On the far-right panel after the ceramic spray you did something called "levelling." And you did it by hand. What is this procedure? Good video and good idea about just using the hood.
Leveling is basically getting rid of excess coating and/or the carrier chemicals that the coating needs in order to bond to the surface material. Leveling = wiping off with microfiber cloth or pad
Smart move applying everything except the one thst needed water. I was thinking yoy mist save that for last.
if you want to coat the bottom of your boat to help keep algae from sticking to boat or snowblowers etc.do i have to buff the ceramic coating off? will leaving it just dry on there make a thicker more long-lasting coat?
It would make it thicker and last longer but you will most likely see the streaks of where you applied it.
Is it ok to apply a ceramic spray after a hand-waxing? Does this add anything or is it redundant? Good video.
Wouldn't the ceramic just slide off the wax? Seems like the other way round would be better. In the vid, he is applying all to compounded and panel-wiped (i.e. clean!) surfaces.
I have wondered the same thing
@@robertheinkel6225 Robert, after my email I did apply the Turtle ceramic spray after waxing. The spray brought out the deepness of the lustre big time. I'm no professional but I have to conclude the ceramic spray after waxing definitely was not redundant. It improved the final product.
Hello Jimbo, do you have a video of leather seating conditioning and the recommended products to restore leather seats damaged by water? Thanks
I don’t currently. It would be a good idea tho.
@@autodetailingpodcast Please do, if I may something that will restore and treat the leather from normal wear and tear. Thanks
Highly recommend Mink Oil. It’s awesome!
About to get a restored VW Beetle (light blue) back from the paint shop - two stage paint job. I’ve been told to wait 30 days before applying any ceramic product. Do you agree. And how would you treat a brand new jewel…your Hard as Shell followed by a spray wax after each wash? Really want it to SHINE! And which spray wax (if you can say)?
I usually go by what the painter who is actually painting the car says to wait. IMO I have used Tough As Shell right away without issues. I’d go with tough as Shell as your base and use turtle wax ice spray wax as the topper. You’re gonna have great gloss and slickness. Thanks for the support and good luck with your bug!
@@autodetailingpodcast Thank you so so much for responding. I’ve been watching many more of your videos. Excellent content. Great delivery. You havd an obvious wealth of knowledge. Thanks for sharing.
What happened to pure Carnauba paste ? Tis what I prefer
Can you put a ceramic coating for durability and put a wax on top for the glow?
yes
Like 303 graphene..very slick,very hard to apply..after 2-3 months no protection!!! (4 time wash per month,ph neutral shampoo) trash!
I just purchased the Hard as Shell for my jet ski, lets see if it really work as I have every dang thing on the market.
Thanks for the support!!
what are your thoughts on "Meguires Hybrid Ceramic Wax"?
I like this better - amzn.to/3Wzy75O
Hello- are you familiar with Torque detail products? This is what I have been using. What are your thoughts on this product line. Thank you
Yes I’m familiar. They’re a mid range in quality and high priced.
What product would you recommend. Thank you
I used to supply them with their ceramic spray coating but they changed for a cheaper product. I suggest this instead - amzn.to/4bi2aDE
What happened to the Ceracote torcher video? I can't find it?
I took it down. I will be redoing it.
@autodetailingpodcast ok, thanks for replying. I'll look out for it.
Thank you! Very informative, you explained a lot! Try not to say "So". Thanks again.
Thanks!
The thing I hate about waterbeads is they tend to dry with dirt in them and I'm left with a white car with a thousand little dirt dots. A flat panel kinda drys it self as the water falls off leaving less water spots
I agree, we need more sheeting effect products vs beading
@@kirkwilson5900 Some 800 grit all over will do that for you, frost the glass as well
You must mean beading after the wash like after a rain. These are all polymers. If you look at a pool with polymers they tend to collect the dirt which helps when going through the pool filter. The new chemicals for pools make maintenance easy. I haven't used the polish materials and there isn't much information on the properties of polymers. I don't like polymers in my pool water as I wonder what coating is going on my body.
Same here, after first rain the car - especially the roof - looks terrible
Which will work best on the rust spots on the hood and roof of my mid 2000's Toyota?
As in slowing the rust or removing the rust?
@@autodetailingpodcast making the rust more waterproof, ideally one day they will invent a process to remove rust and restore the paint finish.
what was the ceramic coat you used here?
jimbosdetailing.com/products/hard-as-shell
How do these work with wraps? Thanks Good video. 🙂
they will all work on a wrap just fine.
@@autodetailingpodcast Ok thank you. 🙂
Shoutout to Walter 🎉
Haha!
What's on the right side of the panel I don't think you said in either video
I’m releasing it soon. Head to JimbosDetailing.com to get notified about it.
Hey Jimbo, got one for you to do and test Traditional rinse of a prewash snowfoam suggests to blast from the top to bottom I personally for the prewash phase i do not wait for foam to dwell for 5 minutes. Instead i go through as soon as possible am done foaming and blasting the periphery lowest sections ie side skirts and lowest points of front and rear bumper. The logic behind it is those spots will have typically the most dirt by blasting 1st you a) remove a significant amount and b) the gravity introduces additional foam to duel in to the dirt that may have remain. Naturally i move up from down repeating the process. The flats you allow the soaps suggested time to work. And c) my rationale to this is to eliminate as much as possible for the contact step of washing and of course why waste the action potential of the foam to go down the drain literally
Good idea. I’ll try it out. Thanks for sharing
@@autodetailingpodcast You welcome, My Name is Hercules by the way. Next up i have is to eliminate the 2 buckets method when you have a pressure washer and a foam lance. Most soaps can generate a ton of creamy foam on a lance is fact. Fact 2 more foam equals to more slickness Fact 3 the solution in the lance remains intact from elements or transferring anything from the mitt to the bucket. The rinse bucket works against us. Yes the heavy particles will go down to bottom. However we neglect that some will float and the phenomenon of liquids to become homogeneous. The additional dips will cause a stir hence a currents similar that to a spoon in side a mug with a dose of instant coffee. The funny part is the counter measure is to simple rinse it with a hose or the lowest setting of the PW with clear fresh water out of them
One issue people miss a lot...ease of use and how the product fits your use case.
100%
The market needs durable fillers, have Walter get on it! Think Poorboy’s Blackhole level filling combined (or stackable) with a 12 month sealant without the fillers dying. Perfect for people trading in cars, shady dealerships, people who hate correcting, people who love tunnel washes, etc.
Collinite 845 Liquid or their 476 Paste is what you need as a durable layer / base. Poorboys will not last, the BH is a glaze by the way.
@@laurapalmerTDGE - They want something that is a durable glaze. The Collinite products typically won't conceal like a true glaze will. The issue with most glazes is their longevity.
@@danlc95 - Indeed, an auto paint glaze primarily aims to quickly provide a glossy finish and conceal surface imperfections. Durability is typically not the main focus of these products. For a clean paint surface, Collinite 845 can indeed mask minor imperfections due to its filling properties. As an alternative to a pure glaze, products like 3D or Meguiar's AIO (All-In-One) can be considered. These products often combine polishing, glossing, and protective features, offering a more versatile approach than traditional glazes. Another option is to polish the paint and then maintain it regularly. However, this requires more effort and time, but the results can be more durable. There are indeed numerous options and approaches available, each with its own pros and cons, depending on budget constraints and the specific needs of the car owner. It's essential to consider personal preferences, available time, and the desired outcome when choosing the right product or approach for paint care.
new subscriber here, i’m confused why don’t we know what brand products they are
I work as a private label consultant so these products don’t have a brand. But because there has been so much interest I’ll be branding them this year. AutoDetailingPodcast.com/jimbo to get notified.
@@autodetailingpodcastnew sub here aswell from Sydney Australis. I’d be keen at looking at the ceramic coating. And a couple others you have there.
Ill have the ceramic spray coating available by Feb 1. @@vinsdragons8021
Don't con me Biff. Two coats.
Just for you.
McFly!!!
I just want to know who the chick is in your profile pic lol lol lol
What works for me best is a shop-vac filled with 20 dollar bills with the hose connected on the blow side. Best plutophobic coating ever.
2 coats of Griots 3 in 1 ceramic carnuba I f8nd definately brings out glow .. and lasts 5 months. personally though I don't like beading I like and x think sheeting is way more important
LOL looks like you can type real fast.....and make lots of mistakes too......NOTHING will make your car shine better than BEADMAKER and nothing will protect your paint better than COLLINITE WAX....this was true 50 years ago and it is true today.....
@JEFFQUICKLE9 Beadmaker absolutely provides high gloss, but it does not even beat Sonax Brilliant Shine detailer or Xtreme Solutions topper or last as long either. It's a good quality product, though. As far as Colonite wax goes, it has to be applied again after a couple washes. That's not great protection. Turtle Wax Seal n Shine or Graphene Flex Wax is a more durable protection. Colonite wax can't hold up to 3 acidic or alkaline washes. that's why I use Griots 3 in 1 because it balances durable with chemical resistance, all while still providing gloss and hydrophobics. plus, it can be diluted as a detail spray. It's nice to have products that do many things well and not just do one thing great but use what you like... there's tons of great products that work 👍
Nice plant 😁
What do you mean by, "Leveling it down" please?
wiping off any residue
Are paint touch-ups problematic with any of these coatings?
You will usually have to remove the coating where you’re looking to touch up.
Here’s what I want to know! What happens if you apply the carnauba wax for a deep shine and then apply the ceramic coat over it for durability?
The coating won’t bond to the waxed surface. You would want to do ceramic first then wax on top.
Have you used Rupes Uno Advance as a sealant?
I haven’t.
I just did a full refresh on my Ceramic Pro Gold and polished it with that at end and it came out amazing while adding a great layer of protection for the next 12 months. From what they state.
nice! sounds pretty good to me.
Jimbo, have you done a test on ceramic spray wax with infused graphine. Is it a product that is going to stay around or disappear? Thanks 🇨🇦👍👍
It’s definitely fluttering right now. It didn’t make the splash ceramic did a few years ago. But it has some benefits, it’s just about figuring out how to communicate those. I think it’s gonna stay. It might just not be the main call out in a product but rather have a supporting role.
Thanks and it was a nice way to put it.🇨🇦@@autodetailingpodcast
Is there a follow up to this?
kzhead.info/sun/gtF-XZWQeKSJqnk/bejne.htmlsi=UFGN9t-PmdYJDbPh
so what was the wipe on ceramic coating with the long open time?
coming soon...
@@autodetailingpodcast how soon? I have a car show in 2 weeks 😂
@@jlr3482 won’t be that soon. But this is your best option right now - jimbosdetailing.com/products/hard-as-shell-ceramic-spray
Are these products from “Walter” coming to market?
Yes, I’m working on 2024 being the year. I’m working towards trying to figure out which product or products would best to bring out first.
Am I missing where part 2 is?
I think you missed the MOST Important steps of Ceramic coating. The vehicles needs to be hand washed cleaned of all the road grime 1st meaning use a clean microfiber wash mitt. Next step is to Clay Bar the surface to remove the small particles buried in the clear coat. If they 2 steps are ignored the Ceramic coatings applied will be very hard to clean off properly. Probably doing more harm than any good by not doing a good job of cleaning the surface.
You should have (taped off the top portion of the 'wipe on' and 'right' panels) and used the 'spray and rinse ' on that top portion of them both!!! [you said the spray and rinse can be used as a topper' for ceramic coatings for that extra gloss; maybe you didn't because they had not 'cured' enough yet?].
Not sure I understand. Everything cured. But it was just an example for base layers of paint protection.
Another tried NuFinish ceramic?
It doesn't bother me if the water floods on the surface or beads off ... as long as dirt/dust/grime doesn't stick to the surface then that's what matters to me.
100%
Initially the spray wax had a sheeting action when you were spraying control the ceramic does not do this. you changed the spray on the spray wax second time, so it just beaded. Beads are not desirable sheeting is. Not sure who taught you beads are good, but its false. Sheeting with little beading is the best.
Can ceramic coatings be applied over a clear bra or just to do it on the other parts of the car?
Yes they can applied over a clear bra
@@autodetailingpodcast Wonderful. Many thanks for the reply on that. 😀
But after spraying all, the whole surface looks basically the same?
It will eventually all look the same yes. Its just about how long it takes each one to look like that
There is something that everyone doesn't understand carnuba WAX is the only thing that stands up to SALT & SODIUM spray in winter climates city's, wax is the key word the other is polish
To this day nothing is better than COLLINITE WAX for protection and also BEADMAKER for the best Shine you will ever see on a car!
Ehhh. I think there’s better stuff tbh
I use Collonite on my mailbox and outdoor a/c units. Yes im a little odd😅
That right side of the panel haunts my dreams...
Hahaha
whats on the right side of the panel? I seem to have missed that piece of lore
I have a video coming out this weekend that talks about the right side@@janielmoreira
@@autodetailingpodcast Can't wait for the "jokes on you guys its seal n shine." XD
LOL that would be so funny, I should have done that. @@janielmoreira
'Ceramic" coatings were a huge scam back in the Day. You could add it to your Engine Oil to rebuild your Rings and Bearings.
I've tried the Maguari's ceramic spay and even put two coats on but i found when it come up for a wash the product is weak and didn't last at all , and this spay on a car then rinse off ceramic spay doesn't really do it for me as i believe that all the panels on the car do not get covered fully and its a bit of a gimmick . I see that there are ceramic spays that you just spay on the car and rinse off but it don't seem right in my opinion. I will soon try the cerakote ceramic coating and see how that performs under normal washing and how that stands up and if it lasts .
Unfortunately, I’ve found the same thing you were talking about to be true. So I’m on a quest to make products better and push our industry forward.
Solvent base is best
Typically. But it depends
Why does everyone want water beading? All it does it create an opportunity for hard water spots. I want everything to sheet off as fast as it can.
I agree. The problem is current products don’t really do that
Read the label on ceramics. It's clay, which is used to make pottery.
So we’re putting pots on our cars?!?!?
@@autodetailingpodcast Some of the ingredients in Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Wax: Silicone is the main ingredient, Calcined Kaolin (is clay), Beeswax and Carnauba wax. Kaolin used to be Kaopectate.
No bloody apostrophe in ceramics!
Auto correct gets me every time.
Local baker died from lung cancer. Flour dust in the air. So it pays to be careful. All the bakers know about this.
Its been a while since ive been into the sceen (meaning not had a car ive cared enought for to wax), But i use ti like magires spay wax and cerimic stuff. I think at thf time it was the first of its type to market. I had to ship it from the us to the uk to first try it.
It’s good stuff. I like the megs ceramic detailer better then the blue bottle stuff
I'm not confused, I'm ignat😎
What happened to the torture test?
The Cerakote one? I had to take it down.
Bummer. Thanks for letting me know.
Are you confident that your testing is accurate this time? It might end up like one of your previous videos that you removed just because you heard rumors that they wanted it taken down. If your testing is fair and without any manipulation, you shouldn't be afraid of companies you've given negative reviews to.
Ya I’ve done tons of torture test it wasn’t about the test itself but that I had an unbranded product next to it that they felt I was comparing it to. They were mad because it was doing much better than their coating. That’s where the problem came in.
@@autodetailingpodcast i don't see any reason to remove it.
My torture test have been done on a ton of products that have survived way longer than the Cerakote product did. I also decided that I will not talk or even show a brand that conducts business the way they do. Good or bad results on a product that’s not a brand I want to showcase on my channel. There are too many reputable brands out there to talk about it.
The amount of cross contamination between the product application in this video was noticeable to say the least.
I just wanted the longest lasting thing for my boat so I don't have to keep wet sanding it
Is it oxidation that you’re having to wet sand off?
@@autodetailingpodcast yea
The plural is ceramics. No apostrophe.
I guess I’m not winning the spelling bee this year again then.
Breath. Mark the panels with the product and thank you.
Proper test of ceramic products: kzhead.info/sun/gpaloryOjWuhio0/bejne.htmlsi=mef-yyhn0dCZ4FOT
Interesting enough his results are similar to mine with ones ive tested. just got there in other ways.
Level it? It’s microscopic. It’s not wax. Wipe on wipe off don’t try and get fancy .
sorry, you lost me at “high spots”…please explain…
A place where you apply the ceramic coating but don’t buff off all the reside leaves a “high spot”.
Where’s the secrets and who’s “they”?
Hmmm! Title says secrets they don't want us to know. I can see you're not going to give away any either.
i laid them all out for you
Bruh… the results are nearly identical for every product… 🤦♂️
bruh...
Plus telling certain massive corps to “Phuck Off” would show us “normal guys” a massive amount of integrity. I tell all candy asses to read The Bill of Rights, heck, memorize them so you know who can recite them to certain corporations and their law group
Coming soon…
I rely solely on the hot wax available at my local car wash. The extra 25 cents is worth it and I love that flashing "Hot Wax" sign
To each their own
Ceramic coating is a scam. Trade practices needs to crack down on the false claims about it. Calling it ceramic coating is a lie, because any ceramic in it is only a trace amount that does nothing to actually protect the car. It's purely down to what ever the rest of the polish is made up of, not whether or not it contains ceramic. I've spoken to automotive paint specialists and I've had friends who paid hundreds of dollars for supposed paint protection ceramic coating. The stuff wears off over a couple of months and it does nothing to protect the paint from ultraviolet light. Dura Glaze is what I've been using for years. It actually works and it does last for well over a year. (They claim it lasts for five years, but it loses the water beading effect after about a year.) If you've seen ultra-shiny wet-look paintwork, that's how Dura Glaze comes out. It also gives a lot of protection against ultraviolet light.
I owned a detailing business for 20 years and you are telling these people exactly the opposite information about beading and sheeting. The reason water beads is that leveling you are fond of talking about is not sufficient and the water will leave spots or you have to go another step and wipe it off. Properly applied and leveled chemicals should sheet and for the most part not require drying. I also don't know why you would apply spray on wipe off or spray on spray off chemicals unless you are getting your customers to come back every week because they could go to a drive thru car wash and get the same coverage and protection for a lot less then a custom detailing. Finally, you seem intent on coming up with special words for shine and the visuals of the finish product when maybe you should talk more about the vehicles protection after the product is applied.
Crap…I’ve been doing it wrong this whole time?!?
What happened to your business? Or do you still do it.
WTF are you talking about...Flooding..eh? Jetness...eh? Doctoring...eh? Without explanation, these terms are meaningless
Meh
You talk way too much and it's not constructive just time filler.
Thank you.
Consider being less ridiculous with the video title. No "secrets" have been discovered here, they're simply different products.
What title would you suggest?
What a joke video!
are you really a missionary?