Ultimate DISA Fix - Repair kit permanent solution! No more pin!
2018 ж. 31 Қаң.
97 681 Рет қаралды
This is the only way to permanently solve the DISA pin problem. No more rattle or danger of engine damage. This repair kit from X8R eliminates the pin entirely by using a center shaft system. This is a tutorial on how to fix your DISA using the kit.
Just make sure to grab the correct one for your engine :)
Directly from manufacturer:
x8r.co.uk/products/bmw/bmw-di...
OR
Amazon
www.amazon.com/DISA-VALVE-PLA...
UPDATE: It's been a year and the car is still running perfectly😊. Safe to say this solution works!
nice and informative video on the permanent fix. but in the video you are talking about the previous owner using a gasket paste instead of a rubber o-ring. These original orange rings are actually molded in from the factory and become flat over the years. hence why you need to pry it out with a small pick or small flathead screwdriver. But still nice video.
Oh wow, good to know :) thanks for sharing. Yeah it looked so terrible I was sure it was a hack job by someone in the past. New gasket is clearly needed.
Any updates?
how about now ??
how bout now? 2024
The previous owner didn’t put “gasket paste”, that is the way they come OEM. They come from the factory as a molded gasket not an o ring. But that’s exactly why the rebuild includes it! Nice video!
Still love the way the videos are made and the well fitting background music!
Just bought one of these , great video on how to fit it. Thanks from Shrewsbury, England :)
Great presentation young man & very professional the way it should be.
Nice video I have a 02 bmw 530i m54 I took out my iac valve for Cleaning checked all hoses for leaks etc because i also inspected my Disa valve to find it’s starting to eat itself which isn’t Good the pin and everything is still connected but I’m not taking any chances I will be doing this method again great video thanks 👍🏽
When I took mine out I noticed that it was loose and could possibly fall and just imagined what a disaster that could be...so way easier, faster and cheaper...I put a Phillip's head screw in the flap that replaced the pin... cleared the rattle noise of why I even took it apart in the first place...it's been 3 years now...still works great. Nice that someone made this high tech replacement...but really a screw laying around the garage does the same thing...thanks for the video though...I always think to make them but then effort and time to make it sets me straight...lol. but thanks for the video for sure, it's not fast and easy to make. 💪🏼✊🏼🙏🏼
Do you recall what size screw you used? Thanks for the $30 tip haha
I don't know the size of screw...just any the size of the pin with enough threads to take root in that space
Hello, nice DIY :) good work :) I know its been a while but do you know how to replace the membrane without breaking the end cap?
YAS New Weekend Agenda video! :D Keep up the good work I like your videos so much :)
The DISA is such a weird installment. You are a german engineer and you know how to keep your intake clear off any debris and crap and then you decide to make a flap that one day will decide "hey I wanna have a look where all that air goes too" and swoosh - pin meets piston and they like each other so much their love stops their universe :D could have at least made a filter bridge to keep broken parts off the block or something like that....
it was designed to be replace every 70k or 100k miles
I'm reading that the there's something on the intake manifold where the DISA sits that doesn't allow the pin to come all the way out, so it can't tank your engine. The pin can come a little bit loose though which causes rattling and a poor functioning DISA valve which causes idle problems, weaker low and top end power, and other problems
Thank you!
Dont tighten the bolt with the valve sitting freely. Youre supposed to hold the valve while tightening it so it doesnt crush against the frame and internal parts. Also the retaining washer (that holds arm to bell crank lever) needs a slight amount of vertical play, like 1-2mm.
Is it better to replace the whole DISA unit plus do the upgrade on it? OR, is there an aftermarket or even OEM equivalent DISA unit that is built with the aluminum components? Seems like the rest of the DISA unit could also deterioiate eventually.
Thank you so so so so so so much
m54 disa valve and m52tu 528 are those same in size? thanks for your time
Thank you
good job
What is the website you purchased the repair kit from
That's better than the way factory did it BUT the vacuum diaphragm only lasts so long so in my opinion you may as well break out the wallet every 70k mi. And replace both left and right you do realize there's another adjacent to that left one toward the rt side you need to take intake off to replace
Hi drifter, i am planning to upgrade my disa valve soon (preventive maintenance) I saw ur post but don't understand fully.. do u mean there are 2 o-rings that should be replaced when upgrading the disa valve?
@@BasWillems1234 The N52B engines have a left and right Disa valve on the intake my car is a 2007 Z4 Coupe I Get on Rockauto go to engine then intake actuator and you can see pictures I'm at 80kmi. I don't feel it's really a problem because the pin everyone talks about can't fall into the engine because it's up against intake plenum It can however fall out "if" it's already broken when your removing it from plenum I would wait to do it when the valve cover and plastic lines from it need changing "the lines that go under plenum" from valve cover in rear which is part of the pcv system
@@drifter9425 Hi Drifter, Thanks for ur reply. I have an bmw E39 station 530i (M54 engine) I am not sure if it's designed the same way but will definitely check when I am going to replace the seals and flap. 👌
Hey. Thanks for uploading. I do , however, have a question. I removed it because of rattle noise and checked. It hold vacuum and a pin on top is solid. Not moving at all. Exactly what or which part contributes the noise? Thanks.
I've been reading that the flap being loose causes the rattling. If you check yours and it isn't loose, your rattle might be coming from something else
I got brand new generic DISA with 2 year warranty for $65, the flap kit from ebay is about $10 now.
How does this compare to German Auto Solutions/G. A. S.?
Hey great vid! But why did you not glued the pin? It could be a solution.
The issue with trying to glue the pin is that you have no way to ensure the pin glues only to the flap. Chances are once you squeeze it in that the glue will leak out and also glue the pin to the bit of the frame it's going through, at which point the flap will no longer be free to move.
I glued the pin, just disconnect shaft on the bottom and move it until glue getting hard(sorry for English)
Greetings, how is it running. Highly considering this! Can we get a July update? God bless.
Still working great! 😀 I will try and do an actual update video. Cheers!
I have the exact same problem and exact three codes just bought The car couple days ago .. my question isn’t that though I already bought a replacement.. my question is why isn’t my car starting any idea ? I been charging the battery for a day and cause it’s been dead but I thought it had a good enough charge so I tried and the car still clicking .. could it be that the car battery still needs better charge ? I also bought a fuel pump and fuel filter as well just in case it that as well
You sure it's not the starter? You can try and bump-start the car and see if it stays on. If it keeps running, your battery and alternator are fine. And the obvious suspect would be the starter. Otherwise might be something else.
Where do you buy your replacement? I'm looking, may have to just try to buy new but calling local part store, sad they aren't versed in this... Any help I would appreciate
Running lean means higher flame temperature which can cause problems
I just installed the repair kit from @t which is just like the kit from X8R and I hate to report that I am still getting the same rattling sound when I accelerate. Any ideas? I know I installed it right and the vacuum test worked.
Probably a little late for you but I got here today so if anyone cares: check your vanos. It may be time to have a look at it. Meaning rebuild.
@@_J.P._ more like ccv or vacuum system
i know its stupid to buy a bmw for your wallet but im set on getting an e85 z4 cause of the cars looks. it just reminds me of asian cars and the big ass bonnet is just amazing on the bleeding things!
Where sid you get the rebuild kit from?
Just make sure to grab the correct one for your engine :) Directly from manufacturer: x8r.co.uk/products/bmw/bmw-disa-repair-kits OR Amazon www.amazon.com/DISA-VALVE-PLATE-REPAIR-X8R43/dp/B010H0Z8OU
Thanks man I appreciate the info
Can you not glue original pin in place ? The new one has locktite and grip washer at top ?
You could possibly glue it, as long as that glue can be trusted to withstand the abuse. Otherwise much like if that pin goes into the engine, should any glue go into the engine I can't imagine it being a good thing. As far as this aluminum one goes, yes it is tightened from the other end and locktight is applied. The grip washer is not on the top (where orginally the pin was), there is nothing on the top which is why this is the safest solution as nothing is on the engine side that could potentially get loose and go into the engine. The grip washer you see is inside the actual DISA assembly, outside the engine. It simply holds the crank of the flap secured to the plastic arm that moves it.
When I put mine on it doesn’t want to move. Only way it’ll move around is by moving it manually.
What is the name of song? :D
That DISA flap bolt falling it is a myth, I know this forsure since I've did my own DISA Service on my 330ci, if you look in side the port intake hole after removing the DISA, there should be a raised groove edge dead center inside the intake manifold that there so when you install a new DISA flap bolt side will seat up against the house edge not allowing to bolt to come loose until you remove it, if that is the point of failure.
You're calling it a bolt but I think you're talking about the pin? If that's the case, why do so many people find a loose pin when they take their DISA out? There must be enough space for it to come loose, because it does... either way I like the idea of having it mounted with threads vs a push pin that is known to come loose. And there's the risk when you're removing the DISA unit the pin falls down into the intake manifold, that simply can't happen with the long bolt permafix
@@danielinacar Well to properly do it both left and right should be replaced and intake has to come off to do it so no worries about pin falling out It's wise to change both somewhere around 80k mi since diaphragm only lasts so long anyway
@@drifter9425 both left and right what?
@@danielinacar There are 2 on a N52B left disa is on outside of intake plenum right one is located inside the plenum look between the runners
At least on my 2007 Z4 3.0 Coupe
Just FYI there isn't enough clearance for the pin to fall out when the DISA is all the way inserted into the engine. When it's removed its time to be careful.
Interesting...didn't look into the clearance just knew I wanted it not to fall out. I'll have to check into that if I ever have to remove it again 🤙🏼
So basically him removing the flap entirely because he didn't want the pin to fall out while driving and tank the engine is something he (understandably) made up? Do you know how much clearance there is? Or is the pin right up against something holding it in?
Don't get me wrong but from 80 US dollars you buy a NEW German quality aftermarket part... what's the point replacing the parts on the old valve?
Because it eliminates the chance of the pin from the factory piece from falling in the engine. Which is why you get a screw with the new parts.
Music?
What is the track plays during vid?
Weekend agenda original, unfinished however, so it gets used as background music in the videos 😉
This assumes the internal valve is working. IE flapper responds to vacuum pruduced in the intake. Otherwise you're throwing $ away!
This is true, but the pin is a far more common and dangerous problem to have. I am almost certain that if the actuator doesn't work you will have some sort of code that will let you know :)
Do you have insite on this issue? My disa is in perfect condition. It does the vacuum test nicely. Is firm and snaps back into place. But the car will not close it. A nudge with your finger will close it and it will open at 4200 rpm but not close again. I assume the vacuum chamber on it is leaking?
@@joshemminger9022 Did you ever figure this out? I just replaced with a similar kit and can still hear the rattling. I also passed the vacuum test where you hold your finger over the valve and the swivel will only open partially.
@@JasonConroy sorry about the delay. I simply removed the pin and flap. I figured since it was open anyway might as well give it some more room. This guy has other problems with his engine. A disa valve wont throw codes if that's all that is wrong.
Not true at all. Without the valve there is excess air coming in through the intake and the engine throws a lean code (which is accurate). The moment I returned the flap by replacing it with this aluminum one (and reset the codes) everything went back to normal. It is also evident by the average fuel consumption.
In repair kit must include diaphragm also..
Is the 2.8 L the same?
All of them have a DISA, just the size is different depending on the engine. So make sure you order the correct kit for your engine. But the process will be identical 👍
@@WeekendAgendaTV I can't find a Kit for my 2.0L M52b20. Can I use the 2.2L for the M54?
@@eXpos3D M52 and M54 DISA are not compatible but as this is only the flap, I am not sure
@@boonamai8926 thanks for your reply Buddy. I've looked it up myself and found out that they are indeed different. I ended up just buying a new DISA. Thanks anyway :)! Have a good day mate.
@@eXpos3D no problem, may our BMWs live on ^^
Sure looks easy in the video. My crank isn't coming out.
I paid 460 because my pin fell and disa didn’t work
This is quite false information actually, the pin is pushing against the intake manifold and thus can't easily fall out, it can only destroy your engine if it falls out while removing the disa.
How do I go about that?
the disa valve shaft broke off and lodged itself in the intake valve. cost me thousands. stupid vehicles.
Ta avait pas attendre qui casse Stupid humain
Another reason BMWs are rolling time bombs. Funny all the Non-German makes manage to design a variable intake without risking catastrophic engine failure. Hmmm