BMW 330i 325i E46 Changing Engine and Transmission Mounts DIY
2015 ж. 12 Нау.
189 279 Рет қаралды
See how I changed the engine and transmission mounts on my 2002 330i E46 BMW in this video with an extremely helpful tip on how to remove the hard to get at nuts on the top of the transmission mounts.
Why would you want to change these mounts, you ask? Well, does your car vibrate like crazy when you're idling at a stoplight? Does it drive you crazy? Well it drives me crazy for sure and I put a stop to it by changing my mounts. Seriously, it feels like a brand new car now!
Harbor Freight Universal Joints #67920:
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Harbor Freight 3/8" Impact Extensions #67926:
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When I buy harbor freight I usually buy the impact stuff because if the steel is cheap and gonna "fail", at least it'll fail by twisting rather than shattering.
I love your videos because you hit speed bumps like the rest of us and don't edit it out. Working on your car isn't always a 30 min episode of Monster Garage, sometimes its a miserable, frustrating, & just a pain in the ass. Good Work!
Helps to see the real world of it all.
The trick is to only unbolt one side at a time. Keep one side bolted, unbolt the other, jack engine up and replace mount. Tighten and then do the other side. You'll have more room to take the mounts out and it will be an easier job. Thanks for vid.
Nice trick, that sounds a lot easier than struggling with a ratchet strap!
You may want to loosen the other side to help get the last few mm of clearance. but they both went in & out w ease. and I did pass side first as driver side is way easier. no need to take tires off either.
Your term of driver side and passenger side kept throwing me off, EU over here eh, good vid. thanks.
Some EU drive on the correct side of the road... 'Murica! ;-)
Everyone in the EU drive on the correct side of the road exept England
That 13mm - 1/2" break bar combo is genius, gonna have to remember that one!
Nearly 4 years old but still helpful for guys like me struggeling with the questions liek "how the heck is it supposed to be done...?" Thanks a lot for your effort! I'd never have the patience to film and comment while fighting with unbearable mounting positions or unwilling bolts... :-)
About to do this job myself. Thanks for your videos! For anyone interested in torquing the transmission mounts please read along... Using a 13mm wrench as a crow's foot on a torque wrench will add leverage, thus you will need to do some math depending on your setup. Fortunately there are calculators online, just search "torque crows foot calculator". For example, a 12" wrench attached to a 4" crows foot would require a setting of 12 ft/lbs in order to properly torque a nut to 16 ft/lbs.
I just finished this job with the help of this video. Thanks for posting it. In the interest of adding to the knowledge base, the reason the engine doesn't come up as far on the passenger side likely is not because your driveway is slanted. It's because the engine is slanted and there is a huge weight bias to the right side. I couldn't get the new mount in on the right side with the engine as high as it would go. So rather than using the come-along method, I removed three of the four bolts holding the aluminum bracket that connects the mount to the engine block.
Great video! Nice to see that you actually show when the tactic doesn't work, that way it's easier for us to do ourselves at home.
Nice DIY video, amazing lighting!! You also showed case all the emotions we go through while getting our machines serviced, video very well done.
+Luis Hernandez Haha, yep I really did go through all the emotions on that one!
You make the best e46 videos my man, thank u for your efforts
Love your videos. My son got a 2001 325xi for his 16th. We are in the process of installing a new mass air flow sensor and new spark plugs. We are going to change out the motor mounts and shocks and struts. Ive watched a number of your videos. Thanks for making them
This is on my E46 to do list. Thanks for the great video. Nicely done!
Thanks a ton for the cargo strap trick. I would have never thought about that and it was definitely necessary. I tried just jacking up one side of the motor while leaving the opposite side mounts still in place (fasteners loosened) but I still couldn't get enough room. 👍🏽👍🏽
Hey, your videos are great. Have relied on several of them and my E46 is, consequently, very happy. Thanks!
Thank you!
One hell of a video, definitely going to help me out. Super informative and straight to the point, Love your work 🤟🏼
Motor Mounts on the E46 are do. Glad I found this Thank You! Wondering if the Engine support bar would do the trick also. Yes as Preston Rahn stated, 1 side at a time.
Jason, you are to much. You really know the e46 to the maximum. I, have seeing almost all of your videos you are by far the BEST. CONGRATULATION. !
Thanks for your video, I'll tackle the mounts on an X5. Great Tip on that 13mm-breaker bar combo !!
that 13 mm half trick is awesome! love ur vids very informative & spot on! thx
+Sean Podrats Yeah I love tricks like that
Great video, thanks for posting. The trick about using the breaker bar was key. I actually used a stubby 13mm wrench which gave more room for the breaker bar
Great vid. I so appreciate seeing the struggle. Helps ease my ego, sometimes I feel like it’s only me that encounters issues. Thanks.
Well done, have the parts, going to do it this weekend
I went out and bought an engine support bar just for this job. I'm doing mine with ramps and a creeper in the street. Getting the bottom 16mm wasnt bad with a flex head 1/2" ratchet and a shallow 16. I wasn't getting a 16mm flex impact in there with the suspension compressed. I'm using the support bar and a trolley jack.
Can’t tell you how many times I’ve watched and learned from you, thank you.
Excellent work, will be doing within next couple of months on a e46 ZHP, really appreciate your through approach to all videos and jobs...SUBSCRIBED!!!
thanks!
Nice work! Really appreciate your video series on the E46 and even one or two on the E53 X5. We've got one of each, so thanks!
+Ron Hipwell Hey thanks for watching!
Great tip with the 13" and breaker bar, I was struggling with that same bolt tonight!
Love it that you show the problem areas.
Thanks for your help doing this repair. just did this job. Passenger side was super easy and I was surprised. May be it's because my driver side mount and transmission mounts were all broken allowing the motor to tilt freely. So any one who is struggling to get some clearance may be it's a good idea to loosen up transmission bracket which allows the motor to tilt ( this is my assumption)
Another great video. I know it's a little old but I did mine today - and regarding the engine mounts, as others have said, definitely do the driver's side first. Attach the nuts snug and raise the engine again. I removed the cabin filter housing and there was plenty of room to do the passenger's side. My transmission is a GM and it's a little different. There is no way to access the upper bushing nuts in the transverse direction. I had to lower the transmission so that the nuts were slightly lower than the driveshaft heat shield. Then, I was able to get a short 13mm box wrench in the longitudinal direction to loosen. Not too bad. Tightening actually took longer as my 13mm box wrench is not a ratchet. It is 12 point (which I think helped) and I could only tighten +/- 1/16 of a turn at a time. Anyway, I thought I'd mention that the GM transmission is a little different. Thanks for all you hard work and videos.
I waited the whole video for the restart of the car with your words on the background saying, amazing, no more vibration blah blah... :(
Thank you for the very helpful video!
Dude! Amazing video. Every time I want to do something in my 330ci I check your videos, you really take time to explain us how to do it. Keep doing this plz jajajaja. Congrats from Chile. 👏
Thank you very much I just loosen up engine mounts and I guess I will finish that part first and then move to the transmission side. Thanks
Good video brother..I have an 04 330i ZHP that I love tinkering with..I remember ppl saying "oh you have a BMW, good luck when it breaks down".. Haha to be honest I've never had a car that was so mechanically friendly. Mine is a manual trans with electrical fan so it's easier to remove it to work in the engine bay. My car isn't vibrating yet but I think this is the next project for me so thanx for posting this. Sub'd
The "strap" attached to the wheel saved my bacon today on my 2001 325i Wagon! BTW... My floor was level so I'm not sure why you and I had the same issue with the passenger side motor mount clearance! Thanks again!
+oshis1 Nice!
Yes sir. Good stuff in this video. I have always referred to your videos. You are the king of the E46. I have a 2002 325 but I wouldn’t know what to do if it wasn’t for you completely hit the nail on the head always great video. Keep up the good work.
You saved me with that ratchet strap trick. Z4M engine would just not have enough clearance for the mount due to it leaning heavily towards the passenger side. I put a microfiber cloth between the strap and the fender just in case to protect the paint. Thanks!
13 mm wrench into a 1/2 in breaker bar ... nice. Great video as always.
BMW Doctor's hate him, use this one weird trick to get your motor mounts out.
Lmaooo!
Sounds like Click Bait
Excellent presentation as always; thank you! 😎🇩🇪🚙
Excellent video , Keep 'em coming .
I got the same problem with the transmission mount. I’ll try tomorrow using your technique. Thanks
I'm a fan of your vids! About to do the trans mounts and this vid probably will save me major time and aggravation :-)
Thanks for the tips. I just replaced someone's entire cooling system and then a few days later they said the all the coolant leaked out turns out one of the pulleys rubbed a hole in the expansion tank. It thought i put the radiator in wrong so i reinstalled it and noticed the engine mounts were broken and the engine came forward
Thats a really good tip with the breaker bar and torque wrench!!!
this saved my ass when i was pulling out a junkyard motor. also not to mention all the other videos that saved my ass when i pulled the engine out in the first place
Great DIY video like always.
Good shit man good thoses e46 Beamer vids coming 👌
I always enjoy your videos... Thank you very much And congrats
Great video
Thanks for the video, and yeah, just bolt in the left mount first and all the jacking force will automagically lift the right hand side one ;)
I learned a new from you with that 13mm amd 1/2 trick
Real cool stuff, you work that like a pro.
Thank you brother . doing coolant hard pipes motor trans diff and subframe bushings in the next couple of days all with your videos. Let me know when your in vegas and I'll buy you a cold one!
Hi, I really like very much your videos. Can you please tell me, if the procedure for the amounts replacement, is the same for de E46 320D 136hp of 2001 ? Thank you very much.
Thanks for the help
About to tackle these mounts. Will be doing thermostat and water pump next
Bless you sir.
Good job !
Great thanks for knowledge
Hey Jason, am experiencing what feels like driveline vibration under hard acceleration right around shift points. I just replaced the driveline guibo and center support bearing...could it be transmission mounts? Really appreciate your attention to detail in your videos
great upload and thanks
Is that okay to jack up the engine while it is connected to the transmission? (Since the transmission has its own mounts as well and they are still in place). Thanks for this great video and your time as always.
I had the same problem with the passenger side not getting enough clearance to take it out. Tried the racket strap method and tried bolting the other side down and wasn’t getting close. I ended up taking the jack that came with the car and placed it in between the mount arm and the frame and started jacking it up and that gave me plenty of clearance.
damn you. i have to change those too now and i find you again on youtube!
Really appreciate your videos. Excellent practical approaches and tool versatility (1/2 breaker on 13mm wrench) is inspired. Would the use of a torque wrench give a correct reading if extended by the combo box end and open end wrench employed? I think that you would be exerting greater torque than the wrench would be set at but I am not sure?
This is correct. You have to adjust the torque wrench setting when using an extension. Set the torque to the desired torque x (torque wrench length / extended wrench length). For example, to get 100 inch pounds from a 10 inch wrench with a straight 10 inch extension (20 inch total length), 100 x 10 / 20 = 50. Set the torque wrench to 50 inch pounds to get 100 at the bolt. So, torque increases with an extension. In the example in this video, the direction of the extension reduces the overall length. Let's say the total length becomes 5 inches: 100 x 10 / 5 = 500 inch pounds. Quite a difference! Note, the angle affects the overall length, so you would measure from the center of the handle to the perpendicular intersection of the bolt head. Not sure how well I explained that, but you get the idea. Best to watch some videos if you really want to understand it. Here's one: kzhead.info/sun/mc6ilsqBjWmtYKc/bejne.html
love your video help me a lot
I have a question. I have 2 different brackets that the sellers say are for the same car, one has a screw in the center and the lower anchor point is more open and the other has the screw on one side and the anchor point more in the center, which is the one indicated for the 330i model?????
Nice video do you know what is the end torque of nieuw engine mounts ?
Very good video. Thanks!
Great! video! , i m thinking that if i should loose the trans bracket too , before lifting the engine up , cuz i seeing the whole thing (eng &trans) is kinda rigid one piece , until/before reaching the first flex joint @ the drive shaft. let me know how u think . Thanks again for great video , i did subscribed =)
Thanks, I have a little vibration in parked but much more in drive, what does that mean?
What do you think when doing cheng of speed from the first to the second and the third makes a noise after no on BMW x3 2.5l 04
I changed my motor and transmission mounts but the car still sakes at idle?
I did my engine mounts yesterday using the HF support bar and got the transmission mounts done too. Most difficult part on the engine mounts was getting the top nuts off. I attempted to use the 13mm + breaker bar for the transmission mount top nuts but found that my small HF 3/8 inch ratchet and stubby 13mm socket worked.
+tyler951 Nice
You are the man! thats why i subxcibed. thank you again
Same exact thing happened to my trans mounts. Crazy thing tho was that my metal trans brace was split in half !?!?! It flabbergasted me considering that the car is just a daily commenter and is completely stock. Regardless, amazing vid thank you ! :)
Wow. Dangerous
hey man this is a follow up question for you regarding motor mounts i had originally asked you if the shaking i was getting was due to bad motor mounts well i changed mine ran into the same problem you had and thanx to you i used the rachet strap and it worked for me also thanx for that however i still have the same shake while in drive with my foot on the break not only do i still have that but im getting a clunking noise when i go from drive to reverse and from reverse to drive i have a 2001 330 xi do i even have transmission mounts and if so do you think they are bad? also could be a vacum leak? what do you think?
+John Harris You do have a transmission/transfer case support bracket that has a rubber "mount" or bushing. www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=ES53-USA-01-2001-E46-BMW-330xi&diagId=22_0059 You might have deteriorated rubber giubos where the rear drive shaft bolts to the transfer case and the rear differential (#1 in this: www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=ES53-USA-01-2001-E46-BMW-330xi&diagId=26_0182 -- one on each end of the drive shaft) Same goes for the front drive shaft. If you had a vacuum leak bad enough to cause a vibration, aka driveability problems (rough running engine), you'd have a check engine light. Same goes for a misfire.
Unbolt and replace one side at a time. Having the opposite side bolted will force it to til enough for clearance.
hard work but you made it!
The engine mount section is very good. However I don't recommend you put transmission mount together. If the transmission mount is not as bad as yours, you won't be so easy to take them off since the top of the mount is bolted. I suggest replace them when you doing driveshaft service such as Guibo replacement. You could reach the transmission mounts from rear.
I'll leave the broken ones on then
Am I gonna be able to replace my passenger side motor mount bracket with this method or am I gonna need more clearance?
Just curious if it would be possible to just loosen the fan shroud and have an assistant guide the shroud up as you raise the engine, as it's only going up a few inches? Obviously the preferred method is to just pull them both out, and inspect the pulley's, tensioners and belts while your there, as well as do a little degreasing.
The problem is that the engine tilts up at an angle so the bottom of the fan blades will contact the radiator. You have to remove the fan.
Hi 50'skid and others. Just got an E46 330xi. Under Motor mounts part of MD inspection, I've not seen it but I'm told the "transfer case mount" is broken, is that an easy junk yard swop out or more complicated? Inspection station was shaking his head at me. Any assistance welcome, Maurecara
well done m8
I’m doing the engine mount bracket would this be the same concept
I have a 2001 E53 3.0 and the motor mount R&R on your E46 looks like it would be pretty similar to mine. The mounts themselves are different as mine are somewhat oval in shape probably the same on your E53 4.4. Appreciate the video as I'm needing to tackle this.
+Chris Melton Right I was actually just looking at an E53 with the 3.0 engine in a salvage yard the other day. Like the 4.4i, the engine mount on the right side (passenger) is also closer to the front.
I 've replaced engine mounts and transmisson mount with Ruvelli brand I can stop my car smoothly but I feel some vibartion on steering wheel I think this is due to new mounts I hope the problem goes away a later time.
Hi, do you remember if the problem disappear after some time? I have the same problem, but I mounted Febi's and I hope that the engine mounts just need some time to works well.
Artson hi, Vibration I felt on steering went away 1000-2000 km later, Also I sold my e60 530d car, instead I bought e63 645ci It's performance is marvelous I advise you to buy one of them
do you have a video on how to change the motor mount and transmission mount in a X53?
I don't have that video yet, unfortunately. But it should be basically the same process. I don't remember if there is access to the tops of both engine mounts in the e53. I think the passenger one is accessible but the driver side one you might have to get from below. I would encourage you to simply jack your car up and take a look from underneath and from above. See what kind of access you have.
Is there much difference in doing this job on a 2001 525i? I am about to replace the oil pan gasket and thought I'd replace the engine and trans mounts at the same time. Thank you very much for the video by the way.
Should be pretty darn similar. I imagine the 5 just has a larger subframe.
Changing the oil pan on a 5 series is a very difficult job, if you're very experienced it should take 8-10 hours
Hi I have a E46 325i with a multitronic gear box. I changed the Motor of the E 46 325i with a E46 330i Motor. I did not change the gear box from the 325i and it is giving me problems. How can i solve the issue and have it change it smoothly
Hi guy's i have question. Is it possible that the rear transmission mount throw the limp mode on my e46 320d?
awesome video as always champ...never defeated!.....about a week ago....I noticed my 2004, 325I would kind of jerk forward (right at about 5mph) when I would slow down to stop at a red light. I'm hoping it's either the transmission mounts are bad or transmission flush. it happened only about twice(probably driven about 10 times since then), but I'm suspecting it will get worse. Any thoughts on that 50s kid?
+Ken Thanks for watching. Mounts wouldn't have anything to do with that, I don't think. Could be problems with your throttle position sensor. Do you have any codes stored?
I don't have any codes sir. I'll keep a close eye on it and keep you posted :-) keep the videos coming champ :-)
Im dreading this repair on my 2009 c350 which is 4matic.. 260k on original mounts and still no movement, lets hope they get too 300!Probably only made it this far because I spray the engine bay plastic and rubbers with silicone spray and 303 aerospace protectant
Could you please let me know, when changing just auto trans mounts can I just jack up tranny with a jack? Or do I have to have engine mounts off first and engine hooked up like you did?
Hi. great DYI
+Jorge Martinez-DeAnda Thank you
I did the engine mounts. Getting ready to start the transmission mounts, just noticed at 16:10 you mentioned turning the drive line, to get a nut out of the way. Did you just put it in neutral to do this? Did you have to have the rear wheels off the ground? I haven't got under there yet, was just curious. i may need a 2nd set of jack stands, if so.
Marty Meyer Good question--I should have mentioned that the car was jacked up on all 4 jackstands. I almost always do that. Just didn't think about mentioning it. Yes I did shift to neutral in order to rotate the drive shaft a little and you do have to have the rear wheels off the ground to do that. Or you can temporarily jack it up in the back and move the axle to the right place and then let it back down, however it's a whole lot easier to do the job if it's jacked up on all fours as you have more clearance and room to work. Don't only use your jack to support the vehicle though--that's very unsafe.
Went out and bought a second set of jack stands earlier today :)
What would you say is the average time to do something like this? What difficulty rating would you give this project? I plan on doing this soon
This should take about 2-3 hours I think. I would have to rate this as easy since there are only a couple bolts involved. Nothing to get too mixed up about. Good luck!
Hey great DIY! I have an e46 xi with the same problem. But the car also experiences a noticeable kick when switching into Drive or Reverse. Did you have a simptom like that for the mounts? And which mount would likely be causing that, engine or tranny? I think I aso have a leaking valve cover gasket btw, can see some oil on the passenger side and smell it inside sometimes... Thanks!
Dmitry Kizyakov You can also check the rear differential mount. The large bushing wears loose and creates slop in the drivetrain.
CompCrasher86 Thanks I will look into that!
Dmitry Kizyakov Yes it could be the rear subframe bushings (they aren't differential bushings) or it could be that the rear subframe mounts have torn away from the body. This happens on older E46s (99-01)--my friend owns one and one of his mounts is torn completely from the body. Lift the rear up on jackstands and take a look at the subframe where it mounts to the body.
Thanks +50sKid I checked differential bushings they looked fine, the differential itself is all covered in oil though! Not cool. It's an '02 but I'll check the subframe!
+Dmitry Kizyakov A worn guibo can also cause what you're describing. I would definitely check the differential mount first though.
What brand would you buy Lemforder, Corteco or BMW Genuine? (Corteco are half price than genuines and I've read they are the same?