How to cut and thread steel conduit - Apprentice electrician essentials
Threading steel conduit is one of the most common requirements when installing a metal conduit based electrical installation. In this video, we look at how to thread a 20 or 25mm galvanised conduit with a set of manual stock and die set.
( If you are watching from outside the UK you may find our metal conduit very different to the EMT system and other light gauge conduit used in the USA etc - but please add your comments)
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🕐 TIME STAMPS 🕕
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00:00 Threading steel conduit
00:54 Building the stocks and die
01:30 The die is handed
01:55 Length of conduit
02:39 Conduit vice
03:05 Rules about hacksaw blades
04:02 Conduit angle
04:54 Square end..?
05:07 File the end
05:41 Going in dry
06:18 Jake uses lube
07:19 Two threads hanging out the back
07:44 Reaming the conduit
08:12 Coupler
09:02 Four way spouted box
09:36 Two threads showing
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I was always taught you put the cutting compound on with your finger ,how times have changed.. My stocks and conduit bender are at least 60 years old and probably more .i wonder how long these shinny new ones would last on site. Very good video by the way ,thanks for posting
I was using screwed tube in 1963 threw all my stuff away last year didn't bother in 63 with cutting compound in those days everyone used cheapo lard just as good
Excellent work there, although you might want to use the pipe grips in the other direction or even get a set of 9 inch Footprint pipe grips 🔧
Best Series ever
Great video, well explained.
I used to put two threads on ,then do the filing then thread compound, this prevents clogging files up with compound and filings ,apart from using grips the wrong way nice vid as usual.
Excellent! Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge. I'm wondering if you could share "How to construct a conduit wiring system from scratch. This should show the 1st, 2nd & 3rd fix. Many thanks again.
Whoever made that little blue stock and die kit first should be charging royalties to everyone else who makes it now. I'm sure it's the only type you can buy in the world cos its the only one iv ever seen over 20 years of doing this 🤣
Legend
Can I ask why you wold prefer a high speed steel hacksaw blade to Bi-metal. Also I thought you should be sawing as close to the vice as possible. Keep up the good work.
High speed steel hacksaw blade to Bi-metal blade preference could certainly be explained better.
Cutting close to the vice stops movement caused by vibrations when cutting such thin walled pipes.
Didn’t give the stocks and dies a bang on the side of the bender to clear them out , didn’t wipe inside conduit and used grips wrong way round 🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️😂😂😂
There is no wrong way round to use grips.. it works the same
@@ja_adam_ there’s a correct way ,🤦🏼♂️the moveable lever goes at the bottom that way the more you squeeze the levers together the tighter it gets as you turn the grips
@@cj-rb8fz it did the job the exact same ? The coupler wasn’t loose? What advantage would it have given in that exact situation?
@@ja_adam_ to call your self a tutor and not know how to use a pair of slip grips
@@cj-rb8fz thanks for not answering my question
Ive got a shorty/stock n dies/but no conduit no compound no ts nor squares no reamer no files n never done conduit work. But i uve given me the impetus to try...im 1 month into my 2346..22% in. Got my 18th n 2391-52 staring next week... The am2 has got to b the defacto bench mark for a sparks and thats what aiming towards with the help of ur vids...f@ck me...ive sussed out the wiring centre...ur legends
The threads should be 16mm which is 2 threads showing as the dyes are ar13-14 mm and talo I find is the best not the new greases & compounds
Can you tell me why it should be 16 mm ?
When would you ever want to hand thread rigid when cordless pony threader are readily available
When your starting out it’s best to learn the basics
@@efixx I get it you want to learn the basic way of doing things but this is a little bit past the point of inefficient even for fresh hands