How to Make Timer Circuit for Spot Welding Machine
#timer #timercircuit #spotwelding
Hello...
In this video, I tried to show you how to make the "Timer Circuit" that I used in the "Spot Welding Machine", the production video of which can be found at the link below.
This circuit allows the user to set a certain time and set the welding time before giving current to the Welding.
The circuit is quite simple, and while showing the construction, I tried to show it in a way that everyone can understand and do it by watching the video.
You can download the circuit diagram from the link below. If there is something unclear, you can write it in the comment section of the video.
Please don't forget to SUBSCRIBE to my channel, press the LIKE button and activate the RING notifications to be notified of my future videos.
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
drive.google.com/file/d/1ehfz...
SPOT WELDING MACHINE VIDEO
• Homemade Spot Welding ...
If you need it, there is a link to the measuring tool I used in the link below. It's a pretty cool tool...
kaiweets.com/products/kaiweet...
Thank you, the best explanation on KZhead without complications
Thank you too. I'm so glad you like it 👍
Bu kadar basit ve kullanışlı olabilir tebrikler tam aramadığım devre...
Ben de teşekkür ederim. Beğenmenize sevindim.
Thank you, I intend to make this timer. I hope all will go fine. Thanks for your explanation. It's a great job from you.
Thank you too. It is a simple and useful circuit.
Çalışmanın hepsi mükemmeldi. ilk makina yapımını izlemiştim ben bu devreyi nasıl yapacam şemadan anlamam diye düşünürken bu videoyada denk gelince çok sevindim. Emekleriniz için teşekkürler.
Ben de size teşekkür ederim. İyi günler
Devrenizi poşet vakum ve mühürleme sisteminde kullandım. Teşekkürler Murat bey kardeşim.
Ben de teşekkür ederim Hakan bey. Basit ve kullanışlı bir devre. İşinize yaramasına sevindim. Zamanları daha da artırmak isterseniz kondansatörlere paralel kondansatör eklemeniz yeterli. 2200 e paralel atarsanız kaynak zamanı uzar. diğeri de gecikme zamanını...
Understood 🙏🙏 Thanks for reply Sir I am from India First time I am trying welding machine in my factory of ss utensils I got crazy by video n pdf Sir all the best n health wishes 🙏🙏👍👍
Thank you too. I would be happy to do my best to help. I wish you a good day
Bedankt, duidelijke uitleg
Ik ben blij dat je het leuk vond. Hartelijk dank voor uw bijdrage. Als u vragen heeft, schrijf dan opnieuw. Groeten uit Turkije 👍
Thanks Mr. Murat, You made a layman an electrician, just by following the diagram and step by step joining the components i could say copy this. Will be making the spot welder too. Thanks Best Wishes and Love from India. Excellent. Keep it up.
Hello. Thank you very much for your nice comment. I'm glad you like it. Note that you can find PDF plans in all my videos
Thanks god you didn't use 555 or any other frivolous IC! I might have used darlington though, to make capacitors smaller and less critical, but most I hate the mainstream of making all the simplest functions with ICs where they don't even actually reduce the component count and often even increases the number of pins to solder. Nice, simple and functional circuit! And nice build of the spot welder too! Thanks a lot!
Hello. Thank you so much. As you said, it is a simple circuit with low probability of failure. You can also make this circuit with a microcontroller, but I made it this way for the reasons you mentioned. In addition, I think that those who do not have electronic knowledge can easily make this circuit. Greetings from Turkey 👍
@ Cuántos KvA soportaría éste circuito? Es que estoy en un proyecto similar, pero usando una soldadora de arco que era de 180 amperios, quité su secundario y voy a fabricar uno con barras de aluminio porque el cobre es caro, y el aluminio lo consigo fácil y lo fundo fácil. Al mismo tiempo, también estoy pensando dejar el entre hierro de regulación de amperios del transformador acorazado de la soldadora de arco, para ver si regula algo los amperios. Sin embargo, quiero hacer un circuito de control, pero no sé si soportará la potencia del soldador de puntos sin quemar el circuito. Mediría el consumo pero no poseo pinza amperimétrica, y aún no he armado el secundario definitivo. De antemano gracias....
molto molto molto bravo hai delle competenze in elettronica vere elevate che io non mi sogno neanche. Complimenti
Grazie molte. I tuoi buoni pensieri vengono dalla tua bontà...
Eline sağlık çok güzel paylaşım için teşekkürler 👍
👍
Thank you for your videos. The design of your welding machine is the best that I have seen. Please write the range of times for implementation using Arduino.
Hello. First of all, thank you very much. I'm glad that my work is rewarded in this way. I preferred this method so that everyone can make the timer circuit and make it with easily available circuit elements. I don't prefer it because my followers will have more difficulty in doing it with Arduino or other microcontroller.
Thanks brother, I found it😍
Thank you too 👍
exceletente, sencillo y funcional. gracias, saludos desde mexico
Muchas gracias. Saludos desde Turquía
I have a commercially made spot welder. Works well, but lacks any sort of power or timer adjustments. I wonder if this circuit could be used to control it?
Hello. You can use it. However, this circuit is only for time adjustment. No matter how long you press the button, it gives the welding current for the time you set.
Could I technically use the delay time And use it to trigger a dual pulse?
Any timer that can set appropriate times can be used. You can also do it by just adjusting the welding time. I preferred a two-stroke timer so that I could use it hands-free (with a foot pedal).
Спасибо, самая простая и надёжная механическая схема которую видел, хочеться повторить. Не планируете и автостарт сюда вживить ? - было бы очень интересно ☺ Везде встречаються только микроконтроллеры таймеры 555 и прочие ардуино-подобные цыфровые схемы для задротов, с которыми вообще не хочеться возиться - проще готовый купить на алиэкспрессе.
Привет. Во-первых, спасибо. Я не хотел покупать. Потому что это простая и полезная схема. У меня также есть опыт работы с микроконтроллерами. Но даже если бы я мог, не все зрители сделали бы это. Вот почему я разработал эту простую систему.
EXCELENTE!!!!
Muchos gracias 👍
Great work
Thank you 👍
Teşekkürler üstad çok güzel anlaşılır vede pratik olmuş bende punta Makinesi yapmak istemiştim ama böyle bir sistemden haberim yoktu haliyle beceremedim sayende olacagina eminim tekrar teşekkür ederim başarılarının devamını dileklerimle saygılar sunarım 👍👍👍👍
Çok teşekkür ederim Hüsamettin bey. Zamanlayıcı olmazsa pil aşırı isinabilir. Size de başarılar. Hayırlı akşamlar
Tekrar merhaba Hüsamettin bey. Benim yaptığım pil punto makinesine de bir bakın isterseniz. O videoda da zamanlayıcı yaptım. Devre kısmı biraz hızlı geçmiş ama onun zamanlayıcısı buna benzemekle beraber daha basit.
İlgi ve alakanız için çok teşekkür ederim saygılar sunarım iyi çalışmalar vede iyi geceler
@@husamettininan4367 Ben de teşekkür ederim. Hayırlı geceler
So great 👍👍👍🌹
Thank you so much 👍👍👍
Можно понять без слов. Спасибо огромное. 👍
И тебе спасибо. Я рад, что тебе понравилось. Привет из Турции 👍
Ellerine sağlık
Teşekkürler 👍
Great video and easy to follow - can i ask a question? What amps should the 12 volt supply be?
Hello. 12V supply 0.5A is sufficient. Because it is used only for relays. Thank you for your interest and comment 👍
Veo en el diagrama pero no entiendo muy bien en el vídeo la conexión con la soldadora propiamente dicha. Los 220v van conectados en serie con el primero y el Relay N°1? A caso no funcionan con 12v los Relays, eso no lo quemaría? Disculpen la ignorancia. Me explicarían cómo funciona realmente, si se conectan así o no, porque no estoy entendiendo bien. Gracias.
Hola. El extremo COM (extremo común) y el extremo NO (normalmente abierto) del relé RL1 están cambiando entre 220 V y el transformador. Como dijiste, estos extremos están conectados en serie. Si el circuito está funcionando como debería, puede haber un problema con las conexiones de los contactos del relé. Le agradecería si pudiera ponerse en contacto conmigo después de comprobarlo.
@ Es que aún no he armado el circuito. Y justamente por eso, es preferible quitarse las dudas con el que sabe, antes de cometer un error. Jaja. Pero apenas lo construya todo y lo pruebe, con la máquina completa en sí, y te voy a comentar los resultados. Mil gracias Murat. Saludos desde Argentina.
Si lo haces viendo el vídeo del circuito electrónico y lo conectas de la misma manera, no habrá problema. Los contactos de relé de conexión más importantes. Presta atención a esto. Buena suerte. Saludos desde Turquía
Just subscribed The micro switch button is mecanic conected to upper bracket on the welder?! When you push down it makes contact or you have foot pedal?!
The switch is inside the machine. There is also a foot switch (you can see the video on the channel) but there is no switch on the pedal. When the upper arm is pressed, the switch is activated and a period of time is allowed for contact with the material to be welded. When this time is over, current is given for the set welding time.
👍👏
👍👍👍
top!
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Salve salve top d +
👍 Thank you
Esse circuito pode coloca em uma máquina descola ponto feita com 2 traf de microondas?
Claro, pode ser colocado... A única mudança que você precisa fazer é substituir o relé que energiza o transformador por um relé com corrente suficiente.
buenas noches saludos desde Miami, Estados Unidos, todo esta bien, pero lo que no pude ver es como se integra el trasformador del micro ondas al circuito, lo único que vi es que soldaste dos cables uno rojo y otro negro, pero no se a que fuente de poder los llevaste a la 12 V o a la 220 V, porque en el diagrama dice una cosa y el video dice otra cosa, ahora bien, el trasformador es de 220 V primario y 5 V secundario con 250 a 300 A. No se si en el video alguien vio la fuente del poder del circuito. Good evening greetings from Miami, United States, everything is fine, but what I couldn't see is how the microwave transformer is integrated into the circuit, the only thing I saw is that you soldered two wires, one red and one black, but I don't know how Which power source did you take to 12 V or 220 V, because the diagram says one thing and the video says something else, now, the transformer is 220 V primary and 5 V secondary with 250 to 300 A. No I know if in the video someone saw the power source of the circuit.
Hola. Usé un adaptador de 220V / 12V para el suministro del circuito. La caja negra que se ve en el video... La alimentación del circuito está activa cuando el sistema está energizado. Los contactos del relé en el circuito están cambiando uno de los terminales de entrada del transformador del horno de microondas. Entonces da paso al transformador. El sistema es realmente simple. Si hay algo que no está claro, escribe de nuevo. Saludos desde Turquía...
Great stuff Murat,,,as always! Am I able to use this circuit with the Battery tab welder circuit? Thanks, Regards, Marty. (UK)
Hi Marty... I was wondering what you were doing too. As far as I understand, you couldn't run the circuit. This circuit is considered the same as the previous one. But there are two time settings in this circuit. Previously, when the button was pressed, the transformer was energized and after a while the energy was cut off. In this circuit, when the button is pressed, it makes a time delay before energizing, when this time expires, it energizes the transformer and cuts the energy after a while. We can say that this circuit is a bit too featureful for battery spot welding. As a matter of fact, when you pay attention to the diagram, the right side of the circuit is the same as before. I don't understand why you couldn't run it. If you want, make the same circuit according to this video, run it and let me know. Let me try to tell you what operations to do and it will be similar to the previous circuit.
@ Hi Murat, I hope your Father is well and doing better? No, I couldn't get the last circuit to work. I tried 4 times. It is my fault, because the relay diagrams confuse me. I found it easier to follow the wiring in this timer circuit because I can see clearly how and where you are soldering the wires and components. But when I look at the schematic and cross-reference it with the video I get baffled! Lol. I can't seem to associate the pins on the relay component to the schematic symbol of the relay, it really confuses me. I have never struggled with any other components before,,,I think 'Relays' don't like me! Lol.Best regards, Marty (UK)
Welche Daten gelten c1 und c2 100 o 370 mF / 470 o 2200 mF baue jetzt 3 mal neu immer andere werte ??
Hallo. C1 = 470 uF und C2 = 100 uF. Auch wenn sich diese Werte ändern, funktioniert die Schaltung. Nur die Zeit nimmt ab oder zu. Hast du den Schaltplan im Beschreibungsteil heruntergeladen? Den Link habe ich auch hier eingefügt. drive.google.com/file/d/1ehfzwHrID-pW_VI3fHl86GTOY0JmIC3U/view?usp=drivesdk
Merhaba hocam kolay gelsin bu gecikme devresi trafonun öncesine mi konulmalı yoksa trafo çıkışına olursa olur mu Aynı projeyi yapmaya çalışıyorum çok sayıda kondansatör kullandım onları da trafo ile besliyorum devreyi kondansatörlerin çıkışına kurdum röle ile ama hiç kaynak yapamadım sorun nedir sizce
Merhaba. Trafo çıkışında kesinlikle olmaz. Çünkü trafo çıkışında çok yüksek akım var. Bu nedenle girişe koyulmalidir. Devre için ayrı besleme de bu nedenle gereklidir. Devre şemasında trafonun bağlantısı da mevcut.
Murat Bey merhaba başarılarınızın devamı diliyorum. Sizden bir konu hakkında yardım talep edicektim.Telvin digıtal modular 230 tipi punta kaynak kullanmaktayım.Cihazın 11 kg ağırlığı var ve hareketli kaynak bölgelerinde uzun zamanlı kullanımda ağırlıktan kaynaklı çok zorluyor. Bunun kolaylaştırma için aklınıza gelen bir öneri yada yardımcı olacak bir video varmıdır? El punta kaynak makinalarında kaynak pense kısımlarını cihazdan ayırmak mümkünmüdür?
Merhaba Oğuz bey. Cevap vermekte geciktigim için kusura bakmayın lütfen. Cihazınızı internette inceledim. Bu makinenin kaynak problarini dışarı taşıyabileceğiniz bir sistem yapabilirsiniz. Yani trafo sabit dururken sadece prob sistemini dışarı taşımaktan bahsediyorum. Bu durumda mesafe uzaması dolayısıyla kayıpların azalması için kalın kablolar kullanabilirsiniz. Örneğin 50mm2 lik kablolar ile dışarı uzatma yaparak olabilir.
Que otros tipos de transistores puedo usar para hacer ese sircuito llevo semanas buscando algo que pueda hacer ya que cuento con muy pocos recursos solo puedo resiclar de equipos electrónicos rotos y me sería de gran ayuda saludos y gracias por el video
Hola. El transistor que utilicé en el circuito es un transistor npn simple. También eliminé la mayoría de los materiales de los circuitos antiguos. Si escribe los números de transistor que tiene, puedo decirle si son adecuados o no. Gracias por su interés. Saludos desde Turquía 👍
@ ya logré encontrar un remplazo funciona muy bien termine mi máquina no puedo mandarte fotos pero quedó 🤩 utilize el transistor BC337 saludos y muchas gracias
Is it possible to install this circuit in the ball bag sealing machine?
Hello. I do not know exactly what the device you are talking about, but this circuit is a timer circuit. It can be used in any system for this purpose.
Sir very nice 👍👍 But i couldn't understand why 12 volt adaptor you added ?
Hello. First of all, thank you... It is necessary to use a 12V adapter for the relays in the circuit. In short, for this circuit to work. If there is anything unclear, please write again.
Awesome video. Can you explain the theory of how the values of RV2 and C2 control the transistor to delay the de-energization of RL2, and why RL2 doesn't instantly become re-energized after you release B1? I'm having trouble understanding what exactly is happening IN the circuit when you press B1...
Hi. Firstly, thank you. This circuit is specially designed for a simple timer circuit and 2 separate time settings. The operation of the circuit can be explained as follows... When the circuit is energized for the first time, the capacitor C2 is charged through R4 and RV2. Since C2 is charged, Q1 transistor gets enough base voltage, it turns on and RL2 relay is energized. In this case, according to the contact connection of the RL2 relay, the capacitor C1 will be charged to 12V voltage. When the B1 button is pressed, the base voltage of the Q1 transistor drops to zero and the RL2 relay is de-energized. The contact state of the RL2 relay changes and it gives the voltage on the C1 capacitor to the RL1 relay and other circuit elements connected in parallel to this relay. The potentiometer RV1 changes the discharge time of the capacitor C1. Thanks to this connection, even if the button is pressed, the welding time is as long as the discharge time of the voltage on C1. Briefly, C2, R4 and RV2 determine the pre-weld waiting time. C1, RV1 and R3 determine the welding time. I hope I was able to explain.
@ Thanks so much for taking the time to respond! Ok, so when I press B1, Q1 will stay on until the charge in C2 is depleted (while RV2 controls the discharge rate of C2) then, when the base voltage of Q1 drops to zero and RL2 is de-energized, RL2 switches to allow C1 to discharge into RL1 (at a rate determined by RV1). My question, the part that I don't understand is; if I stop pressing B1 before C1 has finished discharging (before welding is complete), then what is preventing Q1 from re-energizing RL2 and breaking the connection between C1 and RL1? How is it that you are not required to hold down B1 until welding is complete?
Hello again. I would be happy to give you as much information as I can. This circuit is designed for the spot welding machine I made. In this machine, the button is activated by pressing down the upper welding arm. In other words, when we press the lever, the button is pressed, the delay time starts for the material to be placed, and at the end of this period, the current is given for the welding process (as much as the welding time). In other words, releasing the button in this system means giving up the resource. In this case, everything works. When the button is pressed again, the operations are repeated in the same way. Please feel free to ask if there is anything missing or unclear.
@ I think I finally figured out why I was so confused! Your wiring diagram shows, at relay RL2, the 12V+ (red) wire goes to the Normally Open contact and the green wire goes to the Normally Closed contact, but I believe the actual circuit you built has these wires the opposite way around. So at relay RL2, the circuit diagram should have the red wire go to the Normally Closed contact and the green wire to the Normally open contact. Correct?
@ So here is how I think the circuit actually works: (and I am happy to be corrected) - When the unit is powered, 12V+ is connected to relay RL2 at the Normally Closed contact, which immediately charges capacitor C1. - The start delay potentiometer RV2 controls the rate that capacitor C2 is charged (the start delay time). - When the voltage of capacitor C2 rises enough, the base of transistor Q1 turns it on and allows relay RL2 to be energized, switching to the Normally Open contact, which causes capacitor C1 to power relay RL1 until it's charge is depleted. - THIS is now the "stand-by" state. - When you momentarily press button B1, instantly, the charge stored in capacitor C2 is dumped, causing the voltage at the base of transistor Q1 to drop to 0V, switching it off, and relay RL2 is de-energized. - This causes relay RL2 to switch to the Normally Closed contact, which is connected to 12V+, allowing voltage to pass through the common terminal to instantly charge capacitor C1. - Since capacitor C2 is connected in series with potentiometer RV2, it charges more slowly, but eventually again reaches a high enough voltage which allows the base of transistor Q1 to switch it back on, re-energizing relay RL2, causing capacitor C1 to release its charge through the Normally Open contact. - The charge from capacitor C1 energizes relay RL1, allowing 220V to energize transformer TR1. - Potentiometer RV1 controls the rate at which capacitor C1 is discharged (the weld time). - When capacitor CL1 is depleted, relay RL1 is de-energized. 220V is switched off and the system is once again in it's "stand-by" state. Please let me know if I am misunderstanding something. Thank you for your patience and help!
Bu devrenin baskı devresi nasıl çıkarılır yardımcı olabilirmisin
Merhaba. Çok geç cevap verdiğim için kusura bakmayın. Baskı devreyi semadan kendiniz çıkartmanız lazım. Gerçekten zaman bulabileceğimi sanmıyorum. Anlayışınız için teşekkür ederim
Молодец.
Cпасибо
Merhaba daha önce soruldumu bilmiyorum ama punto süresini biraz daha uzatmak istersek ne yapmalıyız acaba teşekkür ler
Merhaba. 470uF olan kondansatörü 2200uF ile değiştirebilirsiniz. Ya da daha fazla...
@ teşekkürler
Sorumu yanlış sordum galiba gecikme değil, Weld time ı uzatma şansımız vardı acaba teşekkür ederim şimdiden
weld time için 2200uF olan kondansatöre paralel bir tane daha 2200uF ekleyebilirsiniz. Bu durumda süre 2 katına çıkacaktır. Yeterli olmuyor ise daha büyük bir kondansatör ekleyebilirsiniz. Paralel bağlantıda kondansatorlerin artı uçları ve eksi uçları birbirine bağlanır. Yani mevcut kondansatörü yerinden çıkarmadan bu işlemi yapabilirsiniz
@ teşekkür ederim videoya baka baka ancak yapabildim
PLEASE can you explain to me: How does the RL1 relay coil energize? Both RL1 coil terminals are connected to the negative pole of source V1.
Hello. When you look carefully at the circuit diagram, the first of the coil ends of the RL1 relay is connected to the negative end of the V1 source, while the second is connected to the positive end of the C1 capacitor. Please rewrite if the explanation is not sufficient. Thank you for your attention
@ Dear Murat, first of all thank you for your quick reply. I see, is it the discharge of capacitor C1 that energizes the coil of RL1?
That's right... Capacitor C1 is in charge state as long as the button is not pressed. When the button is pressed, the contacts of the RL2 relay direct the positive end of the C1 capacitor to the RL1 relay. The 56ohm resistor and potentiometer connected in parallel to the coil ends of this relay determine the duration of the capacitor discharge.
@ Thanks. I understand. you are awesome.
Thank you too 👍
C'è un errore nello schema. Il contatto NC del rele RL2 deve essere collegato al positivo, mentre il contatto NA va collegato a RL1 fornendo l'energia per il suo tempo di eccitazione
Ciao. Prima di tutto, mi scuso per averti richiamato in ritardo. Hai però notato che il relè rl2 viene eccitato al primo momento, cioè quando il circuito è eccitato, il contatto com è collegato al contatto NO e quando il pulsante viene premuto, commuta al contatto NC?
The transformer welds when the pressure of the fingers is released. I despair. or the plan has errors help me
Hello again. There are two timers in this system. The first timer starts when we depress the lever, allowing time for the materials to be welded to set properly. When the first timer time expires, the welding time starts and the current is given as much as the set time. That way, it doesn't matter how long the button is pressed, and the same amount of current is always applied.
@ hallo Murat Güney nochmals danke für die Antwort , ich probier das heute nochmals ansonsten ist wohl C 2 defekt oder so . Bisher begann immer der Schweissvorgang nach B1 off , loslassen .Laut plan ist bei gedrücktem B1 Basis Transistor an minus das heisst solange ist rel 2 an . wie soll sich das ändern solange ich butten b1 gedrückt halte ? Ich versehe das nicht denn kondensator oder wiederstand kann an dem minus etwas ändern . Viele Grüße aus Deutschland .
G R A C I A S .
👍
Hi Murat, your plan is different than your circuit in the video. The jumper in Relay 2 power and control of Relay2 connection + is different. Plan has power on switch open. Video has power on switch closed (rest position). I got the welding time down to 2 seconds with 4700mf. but delay time remains almost unchanged I have often changed up to 1000 mf. Will go back to manual operation. Greeting Jochen
Hello. It may seem different due to the drawing program I use. For example, the key appears to be open. But the circuit is completely correct. I worked according to this circuit in the video and did not make any changes afterwards. There must be something wrong with the capacitor as well. As the value changes, there should be a time change. Because the capacitors in the circuit and the resistors in series with them are a simple RC circuit.
no error but contact opens immediately with me but not it closes as long as pressure on finger therefore only weld when loosening the fingers. but the time is still too short for welding.
Did you reverse the normally open and normally closed contacts of the relay? Or there seems to be a circuit connection error similar to this
Thanks for the quick reply, no, don't confuse openers and jumpers. The cycle begins as in the video after releasing the button/weld button. (Not assembled test circuit) But your finished machine is welded with a bridged button or have I misunderstood something.
Hello again. Some sentences are confused due to translation. If your circuit works as in this video (while testing circuit), there is no problem. However, as I said before, if the relay contacts (NO, NC) are reversed, they work differently. Besides, if you think everything is right and the time is too short, you can make the C1 capacitor 1000uF or 2200uF. This just makes time stretch, no other problems
OK great...! You can delay the time to start weld, you can adjust the welding time..... How to adjust the amount of current for welding...? Not everything will require the same current ... no?
Hello. Thank you. I did not adjust the current, but you can adjust the current by adding a 2000W dimmer circuit to the Primer line.
I believe it's not necessary to adjust the current because the total energy going into the weld is determined by the time that the maximum current is allowed to flow. Power(Watts) is equal to Energy(joules) divided by Time(seconds), so the only reason to limit the total maximum current would be if you specifically needed the weld to happen more slowly, maybe for an extremely thin material? but even then, theoretically, just reducing the time of the weld should be sufficient. Maybe if the time required was SO SHORT that you needed a larger time scale to allow you to control the total power of the weld with finer resolution? That's the only circumstance I can imagine you might need less current.
@@tuffaluffagus Understood, tnx.
Exactly... I didn't add a dimmer circuit for it, thinking that there is no need for current adjustment. But it can be added if desired. May be required for very thin nickel plates.
Greetings, good evening, and it does not matter if you use Capacitors with a higher voltage or a Higher Microfarad. since in many countries the energy is usually between 110v and 220V, greetings from the Dominican Republic You did not put how many Voltage the Switch Button could be
Hi. Capacitor voltage values of 16V are sufficient. You can use any button as a button. Because the current value in the circuit is very low.
@ saludo Bro, yo pedí un Kit de resistencia y me llegaron de diferentes tamaños pero no me llegó la de 56 Ohmios. Crees que puedo usar una de 47 o una de 68. Cual de las 2 podría usar la de 47 ohmios o la de 68, si puede decirme, o necesito una específicamente de 56
Hola. Estos valores no son muy importantes. Puedes usar 68 ohmios
@ muchísimas gracias Amigo, está bien usaré la de 68
@ saludo Bro, la resistencia de 560 ohmios en la Luz Led va conectada al positivó cierto
Pdf diagram of the wrong machine box link
This circuit is the timer circuit for the spot welding machine. I left the link below. Please write again if you have any problems. drive.google.com/file/d/1ehfzwHrID-pW_VI3fHl86GTOY0JmIC3U/view
Hello again. Any problems with the documents? Did you download?
@ Buenas. Te consulto, veo en el circuito que los 220v van conectados directamente al Relay N°1. Es así, porque veo que la características de ambos en el archivo de arriba es que funcionan a 12v. Tal conexión no los quema? Y justo al caso, estoy por hacer una soldadora de puntos con una soldadora de arco de 180amp. a la que le quité su secundario. Soporta más amperios o KvA que un transformador de microondas el circuito que nos proporcionaste, o por lo contrario se quemará? Disculpa mí ignorancia, realmente soy un neófito en la electrónica, solo conozco los componen y para que se usan, aún no he experimentado con ningún tipo de circuitos. Jaja
The connections you make in the video dont match what is on the schematic. you connect the pot with the resistor lead to closed side of the relay 2, but the schematic shows it connected to the open side. you also connect the closed side of RL2 to the coil on RL1 in the video but this isnt shown in the schematic. If i follow your video my power led comes on with 12v but when the button is pressed the power led turns off and nothing from the weld led.
Hello. I don't think there is a fault in the circuit. I did it according to the same sky. The power LED does not turn off when you press the button. Because it is directly connected to 12V. Don't you think there is something wrong? I think you must have connected the power LED parallel to the relay coil. Please review the circuit again and get back to me. If there is a mistake, I will correct it, but it shouldn't be there. Maybe the NO and NC contacts of the relays may be confusing. Thank you for your attention
Süper paylaşım ABONE OLMAYI fazlası ile hak ediyorsun .reklam dahil izlemeye devam bir sorum olacak bu devreye akımıda ayarlama ilave edilebilirmi teşekkürler
Teşekkürler Selim bey. Akım ayarı tabii ki eklenebilir. İsterseniz ayrı bir dimmer devresini bu devrenin çıkışına ekleyebilirsiniz. Yani bu devrenin trafoya bağlanan röle çıkışı ile trafo arasına piyasada satılan 2000W dimmer devrelerini bağlayabilirsiniz.
@ teşekkür ederim başarıların devamını dilerim
@@selimyurtsever6898 Ben de teşekkür ederim Selim bey 👍
Schéma and video différents
Bonjour. Pourquoi pensais-tu cela ? Le schéma que j'ai montré et appliqué dans la vidéo est le même que celui de la section description. Selon vous, qu'est-ce qui est différent ?
Este circuito con sus componentes es aplicable para un transformador 120voltio
Hola. Después de aplicar 12 V como suministro de circuito, el valor de voltaje que controla desde la salida del relé no es importante. Así que puedes controlar 120V o 220V.
Buenas murat quiero decir, que si coloco un transformador 120v,los condesadores y transistor seran de la mismo valor y especificacion
Sí. Los valores serán los mismos. Dado que este circuito ya está alimentado con 12V, no habrá ningún cambio. Disculpe mi respuesta tardía a su mensaje.
Yaptım çalışmadı
Selam. Mesajı yeni gördüm kusura bakmayın. Sorunsuz çalışan bir devre. Bir yanlışlık yapmış olabilirsiniz. Videoyu izlerken bağlantıları kontrol edin. Bana sormak istediğiniz olursa elimden geldiğince yardımcı olmaya çalışırım
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