Recently I've been having issues with my CVT clutch smoking the drive belt on my 2020 Polaris RZR Pro XP and just not having any traction when in low gear and rock crawling. I think I found out why! Are you burning belts on your UTV or SXS? This is probably why, and you should give this a try and save some money before you take it in to the shop!
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#clutchslip #cvtclutch #rzrproxp #proxpracebuild #sdrmotorsports #sdr #proxp #simpsonseats #simpsonraceproducts #proxp #polarisrzr #rzr #RZRproxp
Just watched the whole of your video you described exactly what my scooter is doing, I’ve replaced the belt a few times but never scuffed up the disks, 🙈 I’m sure this will sort it 👍🏻
Great content as always I’m sure I need to do this to mine!
Great content bro, i have an pro xp and you have good content for an pro owners
Thx for the video. Doing this to my turbo s clutch. 👍
Great video on cleaning the clutch, will be doing mine this weekend
Thanks for watching! Let me know if you have any questions I can help you out with. Good luck! 🍻
Yes, snowmobile clutches do samething sometimes. Slide it back on and use the puller
Great video, will cleaning help with whistling noise?
I did the same today before I watched this lol But belt direction is important they say like just install with lettering on belt readable to you. I wonder what grit was you used mine was 400 fine I don't think it was scuffing enough😐
Great job
I had a similar issue on my 2017 xp1000 I cleaned it and went with a hunter works belt, bro! The grip on that belt is amazing! Maybe that can help you better on rock crawling
How do them belts hold up?
@@hunter6099 it’s been good ! On my second year and I even use it to plow snow. Metal plow is as wide as my sxs and it moves snow great! Doesn’t slip at all!
Hey man Been trying that hesi down low on my scooter for months! Watched yours and works like a charm! Hopefully it will last 👍 Thanks for uploading Anyhow, does the sanding will eat pulley and affect the top speed? Wondering how yours got
using a scotch brite won't change your rpm's or change your speed, it only takes the belt residue from the sheves, dont use brake cleaner on the aluminum tho, its a great way to destroy belts due to chemicals in the brake cleaner ask me how i know ? lol ....
The gray is the clutch aluminum coming off as your sanding lol you'll never get it all off! 🤣 😂 🤣 but yes it need cleaned. Jerking could be something dragging on your clutchs
Have you cleaned out your vent? If it’s plugged with old belt chunks, you may be creating heat with no escape because it’s plugged.
I’ve been thinking about doing the lower low range gearset for mine i think that will help for rock crawling too
Oh it’ll definitely help with rock crawling for sure! The low range gear just isn’t low enough on these pro XP’s. If it wasn’t so expensive or extensive to do, I’d definitely do it to mine too!
You can buy the Polaris gears for less than $200 which will drop the low range by 20%. But yeah you have to pull the trans and spilt the case to do it. Seems like a weekend job though
@@peachpole Very true. The gears themselves aren’t the expensive part, it’s the labor. I personally don’t know how to split the case and change gears. Could I do it? Probably... but something like that might be left for the pros 😂
🏆🏆🏆👍🙏 Thank you for sharing
Great video man! Have you talked to AA about the slipping see if they have any advise? My thought was like what someone else said. Adding more heel weight. I hope you can get it figured out, damn belts are expensive!
No I haven’t talked with them yet. But maybe I should send them a message and see what they say. Maybe heel weight is the answer? 🤷🏻♂️ I’m over spending $200/belt if I’m rock crawling or riding slow in low gear. Not fun 😂
As a Blacksmith I can tell you that the black stuff your removing is from the aluminum clutch oxidation.Not from the belt.
Is that what causes them to slip more than the debris from the belt and pads?
@@mrmoon747 Possibly but keeping it cleaned and stuffed up should help.
No, that black stuff is from the belt burning onto the clutches. Theres no time for this aluminum to oxidize because the belts always polishing the surfaces.
@MR Moon no the aluminum gets polished from the belt and becomes slick and loses friction. You scuff up the surface for more grip
You are right, it's removing the aluminum its self. Same thing as if you were polishing aluminum, you get grey/black coming off. It's aluminum. You are basically machining your sheaves with that scotch brite, just be careful.
What BOV do u have?????
im gonna try that
It really works. Especially with a nice clean, prepped belt!
@@STOKED2SHRED2 😊😊😊
Usually belts slip off beginning is from to stiff primary spring, and wrong set up in the weights. Its tough finding the right spring weight to do 2 things.
Also check your belt to sheeve clearance, to much from worn belt, or primary not shimmed properly, spider, will give u that Jerky engagement at low rpm.
Did that primary and secondary have timing marks to align when putting back together? Thats how the snowmobiles are, they are also balanced in those spots
@@kwmiked WTF!?...there are no "timing marks" for CVT clutches...how and why the fuck would they need to be timed!?...the primary is always spinning when the engine is running but the secondary does NOT spin until the revs come up and primary closes up and loads the secondary......dumbest comment I've seen in a while!
@@Spoof2k3 there actually are, they aren't persay timing marks, but there are marks on where the clutches were balanced. Hence the drill holes on both halves of clutch sheeves
@@Spoof2k3 it should always be but back together how it came apart. We always mark both halves before we pull apart so they go back together as they were balanced from clutch manufacturer.
I have a 2018 rzr turbo s just got back from windrock in Tennessee. Mine is jerky taking off and slipping pretty bad. Did this fix your issue?
The jerking is caused by a flat spot on the belt, so the jerkiness you feel is the belt slipping. Since you smoked the belt more than likely you’re going to have to do what I did in the video to get rid of the melted rubber on the clutch plates.
What pad is that ? Does it go by grit ? Or does the purple color represent a certain grit . Thanks
I believe the purple represents grit, but it’s just something you can buy at Home Depot or any home improvement type store. I don’t recall what the grit count was but if I had to guess I would think it was around 200 or so. You want something that will rough it up but at the same time not mess it up. I hope this helps!
Start the unit with cover off. If secondary moves, clutches aren't aligned properly. The secondary should not move. That's why you have a black ring on one side, belts rubbing there.
Clutch is aligned and the secondary doesn’t move at all when the engine is running
That is wrong, the secondary should float to find its alignment. U need a Alignment bar to stick between both clutches and measure the dif to fwd-rear part of sheeve. The bar is built with the twist into it so u check alignment like its under load, which the motor may slightly move from tq. The washers on the bolt set the float.
Is the secondary clutch opposite to take the bolt-off? Clock wise?
No, it’s not reverse thread. Left is loose, right is tight. The secondary bolt shouldn’t be on there too tight. Should come right off.
Ferntucky Here🤘🏻🇺🇸
🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
Making a rough surface preatty much!!
So any updates? I have a 2021 turbo S. Same weak p90x clutch though. I had the same thing go down. In low. Slip going up some rocks. Not even a difficult trail.
Do you have a clutch kit installed?
@@STOKED2SHRED2 no. Bone stock. I have a bunch of warranty so I’m nervous on a kit.
@@user-eh9uy3cr2p I would definitely look into seeing if adding clutch springs and weights would effect your warranty. I wouldn’t think it would considering all you’re doing is making the machine better. But who knows, company warranties work in mysterious ways! The p90x clutch is one of the best out on the market right now. Yes they failed and was just from a manufacturer defect from China, not necessarily a design flaw. But regardless from what I’ve been told having a weighted clutch is great because you can basically control what rpm you would like the clutch to engage at. If you’re going slow and want more grip on the low end, you add heel weight and for desert fast stuff where you want more top end than anything else, you add toe weight… I have yet to rock crawl after cleaning my clutch, but chances are it definitely helped with the slipping! The cleaning pairs with more heel weight and less tow weight should be the ticket to more grip and less slip.
Did you notice a groove on the primary? Down low by the bearing where the belt first makes contact?
@@user-eh9uy3cr2p A groove? No, I don’t think I had a groove in mine. I had a hard black line of rubber from the belt but that’s about it. Came off fairly easy with a scotch pad
Did you ever replace the secondary spring to higher spring rate !!!
Definitely! One of the first things I did after putting on the 32” BFG’s. The car actually has an Aftermarket Assassins clutch kit in it!
@@STOKED2SHRED2 that’s what I’m running in mine RZR too , is your still slipping
@@jamaster6040 It doesn’t slip unless I’m in Low and rock crawling like in the video clip at the beginning of the video. You can hear it rev up but you can see that the wheels don’t spin. (Frying the belt) Otherwise it doesn’t slip like it used to when we first got it and before the clutch kit was installed.
@@STOKED2SHRED2 yeah it could be not enough weight AA arms at heel , or alignment issue , with my AA clutch weights I run more weight than they recommended,
@@jamaster6040 Yeah, but the thing is it runs great otherwise. Doesn’t slip unless I’m crawling or in low gear. In high speed or anything over 30mph it works great. They aligned the clutch when I had the clutch replaced, and I’ve checked it myself since. It’s fine. The only thing I can think of is the glazed over sheaths. I’m gonna try it like that and see what happens. If it still does it, I’ll pull it and mess with the weights I guess.
Hi I’ve been having similar problems with my scooter cvt I’ve noticed a snatch and shudder before the clutch engages, could this be belt slip or clutch?
So the snatch and shudder you’re feeling is the belt slipping on the CVT plates. Try cleaning and sanding them or scuffing them up pretty good and that should help a ton! If you’re still getting a bad shudder then replace your belt because usually it shudders like that if there’s a flat spot on the belt and so every time the belt rotates it grabs and jumps the flat spot which causes the jerking feeling. Hope this helps!!!
@@STOKED2SHRED2 great thanks I’ve got a new belt so I’ll make sure I clean and scuff the pads and discs slightly before fitting it tomorrow 👍🏻
A quick update I replaced the belt and scuffed up the discs and wow, no more slipping or snatching my scooter feels like brand new 🙂👍🏻
Yes that's normal, you only need the clutch puller if your taking both sheeves off of the machine. If your just working on springs or weights just remove bolt and pull off the business end of the primary.
Right on, thanks Chase! At first I was kind of worried because when I pulled off the clutch to put in my clutch kit it came off as one big unit and that’s what I’ve seen happen on most videos. But now that I know that it comes off this easy it’s time to do more clutch tuning!! I appreciate it man, thank you.
You DO realize the bearing you pulled out of the primary is a one way bearing...right?...I hope you put it back in the right way.
She works just fine nearly 1,000 miles later! 👍🏼
This is not you granpas 50 inch 900 trail, so no, it's not a frigging 1 way bearing, jeez!
The clutches in these machines are set up for the average conditions and driving type. When you go to one end of the spectrum like rock crawling or the other end like high speed you have to have your clutch set up for one or the other. Your clutch components looked fine. Your next step needs to be to fine-tune the primary and secondary for the type of trail riding you’re doing That’s going to require changing out springs and weights ….there’s no way around it
How often do you need to scrub it?
I would do it after every time you smoke a belt or every 1000 miles. I also wash my belt with hot soapy water too and let it air dry.
You are touching the clean scuffed surface with your dirty hand.
Do NOT use brake cleaner on your cvt man!!!
Why is that? I know countless people that have used it without any issues. 🤷🏻♂️
Manufacturers recommendation is to use brake cleaner…
Never use brake cleaner!!!
Why?
@@STOKED2SHRED2 go see gates video.
@@STOKED2SHRED2 go see gates video!
@@STOKED2SHRED2 lots of people saying it leaves some petroleum behind that get absorbed into metal; I don't really see how. Kind of the point of brake clean is to leave no residue. The other more obvious answer is chlorinated brake clean will eat belts; lots of dummies sprayed with belt on. Or put belt on before evaporation. If you wanted to be extra paranoid; wipe with 99% acetone or 99% IPA for last step; blow with air and make sure its dry.
I use rubbing alcohol