NOMAD - DIY 3D Printed RC Car / Truggy ( Scale
In this video I show you the whole process of assembling this almost Unbreakable 3D printed RC Car / Truggy (Buggy) from begin to end. So enjoy watching.
When you are interested about this RC Car/Truggy and you want build your own.
Link for model:
cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/...
www.printables.com/model/6810...
www.crealitycloud.com/model-d...
If you don't have a 3D printer, you can order a printed build kit from an official partner: 3D4U
www.ebay.com/itm/315088268772...
Chapters:
0:00 All parts
0:06 Inner and Outer Chassis
1:32 Rear Gearbox
2:44 Motor mount and Spur gear
3:24 Join cup
3:41 Front gearbox
4:33 Center drive shaft
4:47 Shock tower
5:13 Steering and Servo
7:02 Rear Independent suspension
8:17 Front Independent suspension
9:52 Brushless motor
10:15 Steering link
10:43 Chassis bracket
11:23 Rear shock absorber
11:53 Front shock absorber
12:25 Sidewalls
13:18 Bumpers
13:52 Spoiler
14:53 Clips
15:13 Body
15:47 ESC
16:42 Battery straps
17:14 Wheel hex hub
17:27 Wheels
17:59 Showtime
Complete list of non-printed material:
drive.google.com/file/d/16SzZ...
The some main non-printed parts that i used in video:
Gearbox: www.aliexpress.com/item/32785...
Dogbone drive shaft: www.aliexpress.com/item/33063...
Shock absorber: www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
Servo: www.aliexpress.com/item/40005...
Motor mount: www.aliexpress.com/item/32755...
Brushless motor: www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
ESC: www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
Spur gear and pinion gear: www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
Center drive shaft: www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
Wheels: www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
Transmitter kit 1: www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
Transmitter kit 2: www.aliexpress.com/item/40000...
Battery: www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
#3dprinted #rccar #rc #rctruggy #rcbuggy
I have a printer and I like to print all kinds of projects. This week I finished building the car and wowww this car is amazing!!! So much fun and she has so much power! I'm glad I bought and printed this project. Thank you
I'm glad that you enjoy it and my thanks
This is why I love RC! Now if you can think it, you can do it!
Exactly 👍
Excellent work, thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks 👍
impressive one of the best 3d printed rc cars ive seen
Thanks so much
@@PatrikJKS I think it is the best
@@user-hn6yj6bs5z Thanks :)
Great work! A tip, use silicon oil 800 cst in your shocks to improve the stability.
Thanks, Yes, I have already ordered some higher cst oils so I will definitely try them when they arrive.
I was going to say it needed thicker shock oil, too. Also, recessing the chassis screws is highly recommended. Nice build. I like that you 3D printed the body shell.
@@alexogle929 Yes, I already have thicker oil 👍, in the original design of the rc car, the screws are recessed, but when I was filming, I didn't have recessed screws, so I used the usual ones, and when they arrived, I replaced them. Thanks.
Awesome 👍
Thanks 👍
Awesome 👏 🎉❤👍👍👍
Thanks 🤗
Nice job!
Thank you
wow great project! i am also looking into building 1 myself 1:10 scale landrover defender. you are underrated.
Thank you very much. I think I know which landrover you mean.
3D printing RC car parts is always a fun challenge. Since you’re going to break things it’s nice to not only print replacement parts but improve on the design to make them more durable. I struggle with the CAD though, take me a year to do what you did here.
Yes, as 3d printing advances and develops, and better materials are available for printing, it is actually possible to design something more durable. You know the more you design in CAD, the better and faster you will be, so just keep going. :) I modeled RC Tractor model 1 (unpublished version) for almost a year, RC Tractor model 2 for about half a year and Nomad for 1 month, so about.
You should add some heavier oil to the shocks. It will really increase the efficiency of the suspension
It's not actually in the video but i added oil to the shocks later (350 cst is lighter but good for my purpose) and yes high number oils will improve the suspension and overall handling but it depends on each person how tune it to his style of driving.
Amazing build 🔥🔥
This can be printed using PLA?
No you can't print it entirely out of PLA. You can use PLA instead of PET-G, but it's necessary to use TPU for the other parts. But you don't have to worry about printing from tpu, this 98a hardness is really easy to print even on bowden extruder.
Thanks
@@PatrikJKS ok thank you, just upgraded my printer to a direct drive and ordered TPU as you recommended.
Потрясающий проект!!!!
Thanks!
Amazing work!!! I got a question though, if possible, can you provide us with the maximum width height length for the battery tray? Thank you, You rock!
Thanks so much Yes, of course (I completely forgot about this important thing.) At maximum: L 140mm*W 48mm*H 26mm
Thanks :) so basically the maximum battery that would fit is the 3S 4500 mAh ( 135mm*42mm*26mm)
@@Itsmeblvck Yep exactly
Nice work. Drivetrain is identical to robak. Which is great because it uses the best HSP parts. HSP 106015S are so nice
Thanks, yes hsp parts have a good quality/price ratio and you can find them anywhere in large quantities. Just one correction I didn't use 106015s but instead I used 166015 which is also nice.
If you didnt use threaded inserts id highly suggest using them, makes the screws hold on a bit better
Yes, that's right, threaded inserts are good for some uses, but I decided not to use them for this particular design.
I have managed to purchase it, and i can say is that it looks amazing, it is very well documented, BOM list is very accurate, and overall a really good folder structure. There is only one thing, if it would be possible to also include the .STL files in the .zip file? so we can import them and modify to suit our needs? Thank you!
Thanks,Thanks,Thanks The .stl files are there right now, have fun :)
@@PatrikJKS Thank you, keep up the good work :)
Epic I am having a great fun
So I'm glad you're having a fun. 😁
Most of the 3D RC's I've seen on YT are pretty weak and look like crap, I have to say this is definitely one of the best I've seen so far, good job, wish I had a fricn printer now 😆
Thanks so much,😅
Great work. Did you 3d print any of the drive train, or is it mainly the suspension and chassis thats 3d printed? Im working on designing a bare bones 2wd buggy. Im only in my second year of mechanical engineering so i still have lots to learn with my design software (solidworks).
Thanks. No, the entire drivetrain is all metal because 3D printed drivetrains are weak and problematic. So good luck designing your buggy and hope to see it in a video one day when it's done.👍😎💪 (I'm using fusion 360 by the way).
A noob like me did not know that you have to glue the tires, on the first ride the two front tires flew off 😂. I see you keep updating the files and that you added lights to the car. Could you please make a video or teach me how to wire the LEDs and control them from the controller. That would be awesome!!
This happened to me too i thought it was already glued and i didn't check it and the tires went our own way😂. And I will probably make a short video about the wiring and lights, and if not, feel free to contact me on ig. instagram.com/jkspatrik/
Hi really nice RC buggi, is it possible to add the lenght of the shaft, suspension, size of the servo etc... and also create a file with all the screws in ? may be join all that on Cult3d please it would help a lot, Thanks in advanced
Hi, thanks and everything that you mention it is already inside zip folder. Anyway, that's a damn good idea, so I'm adding list of non-printed material separately as a preview of non printed material. Now anybody can check it. (I'm adding it to cults3d and also to the description)
@@PatrikJKS I bought your model this afternoon, I can't wait too try it, thanks again
Good job bro
Thanks very much
Can I print all the parts with a Bambu Lab A1 mini 180x180x180mm? Also, where I can find the TPU98A? I only found TPU 95A.
So it will be close (178mm largest part) but yes you can print it, you just have to place the side wall diagonally on the bed of the printer. formfutura.com/product/python-flex/ www.3djake.com/3d-printer-filaments/flexible-filament?&f%5B39%5D=77&f%5B66%5D=619 shop.fillamentum.com/collections/flexfill-tpu-flexible-filament?filter.v.price.gte=&filter.v.price.lte=&filter.p.tag=98&sort_by=manual
Would this be able to be converted for a rally car body?
I'm not sure, but probably not.
what are yourt printing setting ? is there a full list for every part when we purchase the file ?
Yes, the folder contains everything, some information on how to print, assembly manual, a list of nonprinted material with links, even a .step file with a complete design.
I am considering building this. How is the durability? Would be a good basher? Or just for speedruns and small tricks?
Thanks to the TPU material, the durability is unbelievable, bigger jumps are not a problem, so I can say yes, it is a good basher.
how much did everything cost with the radio also?
It depends on the actual price, but something around 297€ with a battery and a cheaper radio and 335€ with a better radio.
Cool build! What camera did you use to get the shots on the car? Very nice!
Thanks, I used a DJI osmo action camera for the shots.
Hey, im building the car at the Moment. But I dont know how to connect the esc and how to fill the suspnsion with oil. May you can help me 🙈
Hi, yes of course you can contact me on ig instagram.com/jkspatrik/
Some good videos about it : kzhead.info/sun/h7qopMuuloGBoIU/bejne.html kzhead.info/sun/dLV-cax9sZOLfX0/bejne.html kzhead.info/sun/h76YeZ2fiHqdqWw/bejne.html kzhead.info/sun/m8VxZM5-hnaJdp8/bejne.html
hello, what are the printing parameters of petg and tpu? infill and walls? Thank you
Print settings for TPU parts: • Outer chassis, Spoiler arm, Spoiler holder: o Walls: 5 o Top/Bottom: 5 o Infill: 15 % gyroid • Arms all, Wheel hub carriers all, Steering knuckles, Steering links, shock towers, Pin saver, Spoiler: o Walls: 5 o Top/Bottom: 5 o Infill: 98 % Lines • Bumpers, Side walls: o Walls: 3 o Top/Bottom: 5 o Infill: 20 % Cubic Print settings for PET-G parts: • Inner chassis, Gear cover, Servo holder, Battery holder, Chassis middle bridge: o Walls: 5 o Top/Bottom: 5 o Infill: 45 % gyroid ( Gear cover, Chassis middle bridge- turn on bridge function) • Steering base, Chassis link all, Steering bellcrank L R, Bellcrank link, Servo link, Chassis bracket, Side wall link, Spoiler mount, Body clips, Shock absorber spacer, Front and Rear light holder, HSP Gearbox Inside bearing holder: o Walls: 5 o Top/Bottom: 5 o Infill: 100 % Lines • Body: o Walls: 3 o Top/Bottom: 5 o Infill: 15 % cubic
also do you know if TPU 95 A would work ?
Probably not, for some parts it will be fine, but for some it will be too soft, for example arms and steering links. (a couple of people tried to print it from 95A, but I still don't know how it turned out.
dude, wth! After finishing tweaking my tarmo 5 I was gonna build a Robak 2 but... I think I'm gonna build this instead :D
Yep dude I know 🔥😁, I don't want to be someone who will tell you what to do next, Robak 2 is good, Nomad is good, so it's up to you what you choose... but I will definitely be happy if you try Nomad.
damn i need to make it hehe
Yeah definitely hehe
How many minutes does the battery last?
wow, good question, I didn't count it exactly, but when I was shooting the video, I had fun for about 15 minutes and I still had enough battery, so probably the 20 minutes are realistic for the 5200mah 2S battery that I used.
Can you list where I can get the controller and the batteries? Thanks.
Yes, of course I add it to the description.
Thanks, I’m about to buy the kit files once I’m home, do I have to use 98a for the tpu or would 95a be okay?
I recommend you go straight to 98a.
The list of non -printed material needs be updated links. thank you!
Quick question: did you have a problem only with the screw link or was there a problem with other links as well? because I've tried everything and only the link for screws is out of date.
hey @PatrikJKS , I used the list on Google Drive that opens when I klick on the link on printables. I just tried with VPN connecting to a US server, same result. Here is the list of links not working(at least not for me): HSP Gearbox - Link 2 HSP dogbone drive shaft - Link 2 HSP Motor mount - Link 2 Brushless motor ESC Spur gear and pinion gear - Link 1 servo metal tie rod Allen Head Socket Cap Screws thank you
ok, I found the issue. I have Germany as delivery country on AliExpress since I am in Switzerland... as soon as I changed to US the part was available. Sorry for that.
@@LMBroadcasting That's ok, I'm glad the problem is solved.
Any substitution for the 98a TPU? Thanks
I personally using these filaments: formfutura.com/product/python-flex/ shop.fillamentum.com/collections/flexfill-tpu-flexible-filament/products/flexfill-tpu-98a-traffic-black www.smartmaterials3d.com/en/flex-98a#/2-size-m_750g/11-colour-true_black/26-shoes_size-175mm ( By the way I am currently preparing an update/optimization for TPU 95A hardness, just a few more days and the update will be out, I think ).
Thanks I meant something other that 98a. Or is that the only thing that will work with this?
@@scarfa21 (Ouch, sorry, my brain and eyes automatically replace the word substitution for recommendation :D ). So right now, yes, only TPU 98A will work properly, but as I mentioned, when the update is finished, it will be possible to use TPU 95A. But if you mean an overall different material than TPU, then the answer is no, there must be a combination of PETG and TPU material for proper functioning.
lol all good, cant wait for the update for 95A. I dont mind using 98A at all but its limited here in the states.@@PatrikJKS
@@scarfa21 Yes, I heard that it is limited in the states, so that is also the reason why I wanted to make an update for the 95A. by the way, the update is already done, so happy printing :)
How much will it cost if i have to buy all the parts?
It depends on the actual price, but something around 297€ with a battery and a cheaper radio and 335€ with a better radio.
66015 joint part cracked while testing in my living room on 10% throttle
Wow, it must have been a defective piece from the production, because otherwise I can't explain why it would crack at such a low load (10% throttle). I managed to bend one CVD joint and break two CVD joints, but all this at full throttle with a big jump and a very bad landing. By the way, I don't know if you noticed, but I recently made an update and now you can choose between CVD joint and Full dogbone joint or combine these two types.
@@PatrikJKS The broken cvd was on the rear wheel so most likely defective. Yes, now you have two versions of rear hub carriers and steering knuckles and different body. Would you make a spare parts list? I will have to wait few weeks for spares from juzi,
@@martinlabis9805 Yep exactly, yes I think I can make a list of spare parts that are the most problematic or something like a recommendation for basic spare parts that are good to have.
Top speed?
I haven't tested yet.
@@PatrikJKSty. Can you test it?
@@steliosvastardos2922 Of course, I ordered a GPS speedometer a few days ago, so I'll do some speed runs when it arrives.This weekend or maybe next.
@@PatrikJKSty 👍 bro
@@PatrikJKSSo?
meh. Did you mean to leave out ANY adjustability? Seems a miss there, but kudos for bucking the system.
Well, yes, I had to sacrifice any adjustability for design style and simplicity. Thank you.
Really cool car.....annoying music.
Thanks....
Really cool video……..annoying comment.
Too much $$$ for the files....
For all the time and work i put into this project i think the price is too good.
go make and design your own then troll.
Top dpeed
I didn't forget bro, I'm working on it. 🚀
jesus dude relax lol
@@scarfa21bro was thinking what to write 3 months
hes in winter, he will reply when he can @@steliosvastardos2922
Cool car and all but it's like 1/3rd 3d printed all of the other things are hobby grade ready made parts i also call your bluffs on the unbreakable part Mke some jumbs and bashing videos with it evne when you put in the driveshaft the whole bottom plate were flexing as all hell next time print a tubular chassis that would work better no wonder why all the better rc car manufacturers even chinese ones use tubular chassis.
Thanks I don't know the exact ratio of printed and non-printed parts, but metal parts are just metal parts. I currently have a video where I do some jumps... Yes, the chassis bends because the chassis bracket and sidewalls are not yet mounted, then it is already rigid, and you know, if you are skeptical about it, you can build it and try it yourself.😄
@@PatrikJKS Nah i got with the pro build parts i have 3d printed hidden blades since i'm an old Assassins ceed fan i bought the more expensive one from Rawice and 50% still failed due to layer delamination and jammed the mechanish. It's a good idea to print your rc cars but until a full layerless 3d printing arrives i withold to buy an expensive machnies to disappoint myself... But kudos for you actually learnig some enginering skills while you can play with it also...
@@maszkalman3676 What a nostalgic memory you brought me back with assassin creed and hidden blades what a good old days.🤗 But anyway I totally understand why you are disappointed with 3d printing. And also Thanks.
@@PatrikJKS Yeah the new submerging printing looks promising you know the sla printing when the print is in a liquid state but that required after print hardening etc and if you f@ck that up it's brittle as winter birdshłt.
@@maszkalman3676 Yep you nailed it exactly 😂😅
This design does not seem to have any camber adjustment with suspension excursion (the wishbones form a simple parallelogram). This is bad for cornering and real cars are NOT designed like this.
Yup, this design has no camber adjustments or any other adjustments. I wanted to make a simple RC truggy for fun that is ready for beginners, but the truggy is pretty good in corners so I don't see any problem.
@@PatrikJKS Actually there is no reason why a "beginner" that at 18 years old take the driving licence and drive his first car should drive a car with no camber adjustment, caster, anti squat geometry, anti roll bars, small scrub radius and all other important suspension design parameters properly dialed in. The better the design, the better the handling, the easier is the car to drive. "Adjustment" does not mean you have to screw or unscrew something, it is an automatic compensation built in the geometry and kinematic of linkages, and every parameter changes in a controlled and desired manner when the suspension moves. The lack of any basic feature of a suspension system, is more for beginner designers, rather than drivers or builders (printing and assembling a good design is as difficult as printing and assembling a bad design). This said, probably 99% of those considering printing this car do not even know what is camber, caster, and how a suspension should work. It has 4 wheels, it steers, jumps over an obstacle, and can spin the wheels, that is enough.
@@marcobassini3576 Sure... You're looking at it from a real car perspective but this is a rc truggy for fun so it literally can't compare but I get you.
Bro. The music. Just don’t.
But it would be strange without music, I guess :)
6:46 what is that you’re attaching to the servo? That doesn’t seem to be on your list of needed parts and it looks to be metal not printed.
That's a servo horn 25T and it's came together with servo as a set.