I Can't Believe This Actually Works!
Here are 4 different and clever ways to fix those annoying stripped screw holes in wood and other materials. #diy #satisfying #clever
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00:00 What is a Stripped Screw Hole?
00:20 Method 1: Household Item Fillers
02:55 Method 2: Longer or Wider Screws
04:22 DIY Shirts & Goods!
05:03 Method 3: Dowels & Pencils
06:45 Method 4: Threaded Inserts & Tee Nuts
As an electrician, this sometimes happens when drilling into concrete, our quick fix is usually some 14 gauge wire. Preferably stranded
This is so true
Yes! Also, HELLO SPARK-BRETHERIN
I was going to say this, the bare earth copper core from 3 core wire works good 👍
another great sparky fix for this is a cable tie offcut, works great.
that is a good one!
Another quick fix is super glue and baking soda! Fill the hole with baking soda and then add a few drops of super glue, wait about 5 seconds and you have a plug that is as hard as a rock and is permanently affixed to the wood fibers!
Great idea!!
@@LRN2DIY Thanks!
this works great for repairing a guitar nut.
You havent tryed that have you you have seen it. It won't work aswell as glueing wood into the hole. Gluei
nice!
I have always used wood glue and golf tees for entry door hinges, then a centering drill bit for the pilot hole. This repair has never failed me. Smaller hinges that do not get the abuse, tooth pics and wood glue. These items have been in my toolbox for decades. Metal doors and frames I use threaded inserts. Drill bit stop sleeves are inexpensive at Harbor Freight. Former apartment maintenance tech here. Great tips.
I usually use a toothpick or wooden skewer and glue most of the time.
@Repent and believe in Jesus Christ Repent and pray to the door stop jesus! - USE the power of the golf tee GODS!!!!!!!!! amen.
@Repent and believe in Jesus Christ now how is that going to fix a stripped hole. You bible slingers think god and Jesus is the answer for everything
I use pages from the Bible, I read it kept even some nails in place around half way thru the book. :P
My wife just asked me what i was watching. I told her "a upload that shows how to make worn out holes tight again". I have a blue eye now...
I do maintenance for apartments. I’ve used most of the items that where mentioned in this video. I’ve never thought of using a pencil. Thanks for sharing.
Another item I’ve used is the balsa wood coffee stir sticks from the coffee shop. They’ve come in handy for filling holes and cleaning tight spots.
you cant be doing that my guy , think of the tReeeeeeeeeees
Great tips. I figured out the toothpick solution when I was 17 and stripped the strap mount from my guitar. I use a toothpick and some basic Elmer's school glue and it lasted for about 15 years. (It's a 92 BC Rich Warlock and it's a bit weighty and I like to lean on my guitar.)
All these are great ideas,my father taught me when I worked as a kid in his wood shop in the summers,I never forgot these lessons he taught me.
Another option - use the cut ends off of zip ties works well for adding some additional grabbing power, especially with brick or mortar when trying to add an anchor.
Not just informative but really well made and efficient guides, with a sense of humor. Great job.
These are great suggestions and explanations. Thanks. One thing to consider, especially on things for which the hole placement is important, like hinges, is filling the hole in a way that keeps the in its place. When filling with something like a toothpick, this can be a problem. Three toothpicks works, if they are arranged in a way that forms a triangle with the hole in the center.
Yeah man, like the other guy said, repent to Jesus Christ!
@@mattpatt😂
I've had great results using plastic drinking straws also. Small "cocktail/coffee stir straws) for small holes, standard straws for larger. You can cut a small straw "tube", then spilt it longways, for holes in between sizes. it contracts to fit all holes. It creates a great spacer and provides auto centering. A tiny piece of window screen does it perfectly too. Great tips and video as always !
😮😮😮😮😮😊😊😊😊
Toenail clippers that are sold in pet shops are really good for sectioning things like dowel or chopsticks. If the wooden plug is slightly too big then a squeeze or two with some pliers (rotate between each squeeze to keep it round) will compress it enough to fit snugly
Great tips! Thanks. Especially in the case of interior door hinges, I've often used those cheap plastic wall anchors that come in the freebie cellophane packs. Cut to length, hammer the little sucker in, and you're done. (The cleats on the side work great to hold it secure.)
@Repent and believe in Jesus Christ its the politicians you need to preach too . They should be condemned to eternal damnation for what they're doing to everyday people.
I just removed a bedroom door and this is exactly what I needed! Thank you. 😁
Good video. Just for accuracy though, the reeding on the side of the dowel is not to keep it from slipping. If you're drilling a 1/4" hole, putting in glue and driving a 1/4" unreeded dowel into the hole you can create a hydraulic problem that may damage your project. The vertical grooves allow both trapped air and glue to travel upwards as the dowel is hammered in.
Correct. The hydraulic force can make the unfluted dowel rise up from the hole after you stop hammering it home too.
@@vamboroolz1612 ...or cause a split in the wood.
great info. thank you!
Great tips, cocktail sticks is a winner as most households have them. Or if you've got any scrap wood lying about you can just shave bits off with a knife. For simple wall plugs (not massive weight) dry twigs or sticks can work too
These fixes are so simple, they are actually ingenious. Thank you for this video
I've been a carpenter for 33 years and I've used a variation of these hacks. I usually whittle a piece to fit and use a little wood glue.
Rw plugs raw plugs!
Thank you the toothpick tip!! I used this video to fix my closet door hinge and the toothpicks worked like a charm!
I learned to use baking powder and either epoxy resin or, for the quick fix, superglue to repair minor „dings“ in aircraft propellers. Strong enough and light enough not to unbalance the prop.
propeller blades are balanced with lead wool- doesn't mean there is a definite amount of weight to them. if the repair is done near a reference point on the blade- it will be reject due to an inclusion. it can also be reject due to undersize measurement at the given reference point. a competent propeller airman will reject any propeller blade that has an inclusion ANYWHERE on its surface. all propeller manufacturers consider the blade reject with any type of inclusion- even aluminum. when the propeller gets overhauled- the blade grinder will remove thousanths from the entire surface and inspect the grains of the forged metal- so painting over the inclusion will not hide it during a proper yellow-tag overhaul procedure. if you are the one flying the aircraft- thats a risk you don't want to take. if you sell or trade the plane or propeller- it could come back to haunt you- i.e., not worth it.
I have tried all shown in video, but found those wooden kabob skewers to be the best, as the screws will engage the fibers far better than toothpicks or cardboard ( matchsticks, if you have any of those anymore ) I always have a pack of skewers in the kitchen drawer, and split up the pack to go in my service totes in my service van
have you tried super glue and cotton?
I commented the same thing, before seeing your comment...
I have used the toothpick trick many times. An old carpenter showed me that one. It works. Great video.
The grooves are in the dowel to prevent the wood from splitting when the glue is applied to them and driven into the holes. It gives the glue somewhere to go and prevents the wood from splitting. "No two objects can occupy the same space at the same time."
I have come to rely on bamboo skewers as my go to hole filler they work well in shallow or deep holes, can buy a bag of 50 for $2.00 and they come in two thicknesses. 1/8th and 1/4". Add a little glue of any kind and your filling holes quickly. Home owners enjoy the easy tip and are impressed to how easy it is.
Brilliant!! 3 tooth picks fixed my annoying bathroom door. The wood had split and door was always loose. Now tight as a drum! Thanks
I've been hanging doors for 20 years and I was taught as an apprentice to use match sticks but I find that tooth picks are the best, the Spike makes it easier to hammer the last ones in to make them really tight.
I really hope people don't mean the paper matchsticks and are referring to wooden ones. I hope.
@@TangoNevada Well people are as thick as planks so they will probably use paper ones, however as long as the hole is tightly filled the paper ones would work as well.
If you're an electrician, wire scraps work BEAUTIFULLY
I've used a piece of electrical 3 core cable cut to length when nothing else was available . works a treat 😇
Excellent video. When you are hammering a dowel rod into a piece of finished wood, when you get near where you want to be, a piece of wood placed over it will prevent hammer crushing the finished piece.
2:10 - The combination of the CA glue in the hole & then hamering in the golf tee (or other wood piece) item is quite a dangerous one there if not wearing safety glasses. Quite unpredictably a drop or more of CA glue can squirt into the eye on any of the hammer beats. The amount of CA glue one would put into this hole to make it effective for the purpose makes it more likely & even if just trying to put a very small amount, sometimes alot more comes out into the hole then you think. (2/Oct/2022-2:18pm🇦🇺EST)
Good point.
@@jenniferhart6504 - Yep. I've had enough near misses and actual hits on my face & my eye area with CA glue from this and other squirt related mishaps to know what I'm talking about. Once I even got it in the tear duct & I think once or twice had tiny drops on the eye ball but I don't think the lens... Very cringy when I remember those times & in retrospect, placing ANYTHING clear between the eyes and the glue source would've been & is well worth the time & effort each and every time. (Even sunglasses or plastic food wrap would do) P.s. The same unexpected squirts often happen when opening the small metal tubes when they're under pressure or warm. (25/Dec/2022-2:39am🇦🇺EST-☃️Merry🎅Xmas!🌲)
They use a variation of this same fix on Guitars as well. Even high dollar rare ones. Also.....the longer screws adds more security strength to a door. On the latch as well not just hinges.
J-B Weld Kwikwood Epoxy Putty is easy to use, works great, and has a variety of applications. I wouldn't waste my time on toothpicks and match sticks if I need it to hold well. I do love threaded inserts and T nuts in the right applications.
these ideas are genius! Thank you so much for posting this video. I know I will be using many of these ideas in the future.
I usually use tooth picks and match sticks... they've always worked well. and in metal, speaker wire has been pretty good. I've even used it to hold an engine in my pos car once, just to get home, but it lasted the rest of the car's life.
POS..is best make & model.!
The most permanent repair is a temporary repair that works
I have used a tap that is made for tapping metal to put threads into wood. I have been doing this for more years than I can recall and have never had one fail. Amazing how strong metal threads in wood can be. And I have never bought a metal insert to put in wood. Just thread the wood!!!
thanks a lot. unpretentious, simple solutions to sadly common issues... keep up the great work!
I like to take my utility knife and cut slivers off of a door shim, and pack those in the hole with sawdust and Titebond. Great video for a common problem!
great tips! doors are notorious about needing to have adjustments due to constant use.
Been using toothpicks and matchsticks for this for ages. I think my grandpa showed me how to do this when I was a a kid. Works perfectly and easy to redo when it happens again years later.
A Great and Concise Video, learned a lot from it. Thanks. Keep up the Good Work, we all need this useful Tips.
I saw another gentleman actually put like stranded wire like speaker wire or 16 gauge wire down in a hole as well and it helped
A message for someone unused to dealing with doorframes: Nils has the jamb resting directly on what would be your door framing 2x4, but there's usually shims between the jamb and the framing that allow the door jambs to be centered during installation. This creates a slight gap that doesn't exist in this video. Putting 1 screw through each hinge to the framing member as Nils shows in the video is a great idea, as it helps prevent the jamb from sagging away from the frame under the weight of the door, but if you tighten that screw beyond just snugging into the jamb it'll start to pull the jamb out of line and into that gap a bit, distorting your doorframe. Ideally, there are shims directly behind your hinges that won't let it do this, but better to not count on someone having done the install exactly right. So if you're replacing one of these long screws into the framing member just be careful to go easy once you get close to flush. You can always back it out a bit and it might go back into position, though you may need to touch up some caulk and paint on your trim if they get disturbed. Worst case scenario is just needing to carefully remove the piece of trim the screw is behind and shim it back out a bit, then replace and recaulk and paint your trim piece.
Excellent, straight to the point
I've wondered about doing this with screws used in installing metal roofing when they won't tighten, I like the golf Tee the best
Wow! Toothpicks worked for my standing desk that would no longer stand. THANK YOU!
Terrific video very helpful tips and pointers to know. Definitely something that happens a lot lol. Great video thanks for sharing. I'll certainly remember those handy tips when I come across this problem.🙏😃
nice trick. Ill use it on my stripped handles in the kitchen cabinets
Do you have any suggestions for stripped out plastic? I have numerous items made of different types of plastic that have stripped out screws.
So good the spanish translation,perfect. Its hard to find a translation like this. Congratulations for your videos . Greetings from Spain, Europe.
Thank you very much!
The flutes in the dowel allow the glue escape from the bottom of the hole so the dowel seats all the way down.
The biggest problems I've solved are the screws going into particle board, like the type used in cabinetry. These always seem to get messed up because they are always being used by flexing and eventually fail. A couple drops of wood glue and hammer in wooden toothpicks. Works every time.
Stuffing the hole with cotton wool and soaking it with super glue, and drilling a small pilot hole to be safe works very well too.
I've always kept cheap plastic wall anchors split long wise down the middle to fill in oversized holes in wood to give screws something to bite on.
when using the longer screws dont drive it in to hard, the packers supporting the frame mite not line up with the hinge in which case you may twist and/or distort the frame, but its a great idea for external doors for security
Mini bamboo skewers are great too. Bamboo is harder than the pine/fir of the match sticks and toothpicks.
Been doing this for years with toothpicks and woodglue. Holds great.
I used plastic "molly" inserts. Cleaned the stripped hole with drill bit slightly smaller than molly, tapped in molly and replaced screws. Works great.
High quality nylon wall plugs. Work better than anything described here.
The dowels have ridges so glue can escape. Otherwise the glue would have a hydraulic effect and not allow the dowel to hit the bottom of the hole.
Excellent! Very clear and well paced.
Great video. What would you recommend for attaching a hinge to a hollow core door. My hinge keeps loosening and causing the door to sag.
Go to your local DIY store and BUY the correct plugs for the size of the screw and the type of hollow core door, none of the methods in this video will WORK
what your talking about is a wedge, i did something like that a little while ago when I was a kid just fooling around with some wood from a tree like small branches and I cant remember what I was working on but I used the same idea using the material as a wedge and it worked like a charm. this truly does work.
I use kabob skewers. It really works. I used to keep the extra ikea dowels too. It works as well.
I use the toothpicks plus some wood glue. The glue won't stick to the metal of the screw well so the screw can be removed later.
Most of these are great suggestions for light hinges like cabinets and the like, but for something that needs support like an entry hinge, I would definitely go more substantial. The wood glue thickened with sawdust is an excellent low cost option to regain full strength (I cover with tape to make sure there's no run-out), as well as a hardening putty. A shot of liquid nails or some other partial tube of contstruction adhesive works great too! The best solution for door hinges would be changing to a 3" of the same size and driving to a stud!
I just fill the hole with wood glue and quickly stuff it with toilet paper. I don't see how TP would be worse than loose sawdust. The glue absorbs into it very rapidly. I haven't had issues with this attempting to escape while curing.
@@SianaGearz Sawdust and glue are what particleboard is. If the repair is in particleboard, it's actually making it whole again. IDK about TP, but as for my cutting waste: sawdust is free.
@@SianaGearz BTW, sawdust and epoxy works as an excellent thickener for the epoxy and makes a permanent bond between hulls and bulkheads. FYI.
@@crforfreedom7407 the binder they use for particle board is unfortunately not wood glue as far as I suspect, but phenolic resin. There isn't really a bond between wood glue and phenolic resin, so it's not truly whole. It is sufficiently cohesive because wood glue does bind to existing wood fibres in the particle board, and can tie them then with the wood fibre filler that you provide. Unfortunately most things I do except an occasional minor home or furniture repair are plastic and alu, plus electronics, a lot of electronics, so I tend to experience a distinctive lack of sawdust :( I'd actually find some useful to have at times. I love epoxy but I don't really know what a bulkhead or hull is, I own neither a ship nor a plane. I live in a steel reinforced concrete panel high-rise and travel by bicycle or on foot and by public transit. There is a small channel running alongside here but it's for swans and ducks, you definitely don't want a boat on there. I've seen a swan get in a fist fight with a man once, the man was defeated, swan looted a nice Ciabatta bread.
@@SianaGearz HAHAHA!! Understood. I have an old 30 Cat. Pearsons are the worst for not sealing their plywood ends on bulkheads (or sub-deck material, usually balsa) and these old boats wick moisture rotting the bulkheads. Most of all these old boats either have or are having full refits due to rot. The hulls are 100% fiberglass, so if they're maintain and any blistering is controlled, will last a long time. If the ply ends are sealed with epoxy, they'll outlast the hull!! Thickeners for epoxy (commercial) are very expensive. I've used sawdust or fiberglass chop strand for years and as long as it's mixed thoroughly, works as an amazing bonding agent.
Worked hotel, and nursing home maint. for over twenty years. The cheap chopsticks (they're free) and wood glue are my favorite.
It's easy to tap in tees or pencil pieces on the flat, but what if your door frame is still in the wall vertical? Toothpicks might be nearly impossible to position properly. Extra long screws are OK assuming you know what's back there ie. Doorbell wires porch light wires I don't know , I didn't install the door originally.Any suggestions would help thanks.
Any of his 3 will work on any door at any angle. I would just add wood glue to the patch. been doing this for over 60 years... Even upside down will work...
COUPLE OF TIPS TO ADD... - if you use chopsticks, sharpen them with a pencil shapener first, makes it easier to shove in the holes; use wood glue also. - since the 'inserted' wood isn't level, use a self-centering drill bit to start the new hole; just drill it very slightly, as you don't want to creeate a deeper hole than you have to. This will ensure that your screw will be directly center in the hinge's hole(s). HOPE THIS HELPS ALSO!
Toothpicks and wood glue has been my go to and it is very effective.
Toothpicks dipped in glue have worked for me for 40 years. i never thought it needed a video.
No joke. Yesterday I was looking this situation on a screen door and happened to mention it to someone else. And here you are -- solving my problem. Thanks KZhead for listening to my thoughts.
What I like about the wider screw option is that you're basically using the stripped screw as a pilot hole.
I dunno how i can live a normal life when there is so much information on youtube that I can't stop watching. Great video though 🤣
Great demonstration. If using the golf tees, predrilling the hole with a drill bit that is just thinner will allow the tee to fit snug before the screw fills in the gap. If anyone is having this issue with their door latch or dead bolt, There is a new hardware solution that sits inside the door along the latch that is threaded, called Resecure Latch. They have a channel here that shows how it works.
On any of the "Toothpick Type" methods, e.g. the Pencil or Golf Tee etc., I recommend a drop of Wood Glue with the sticks. And if you need to rebuild the ENTIRE Door Jamb, as in, plug holes to drill for new Strikes, use Bondo.
Chopsticks work best/better than a pencil IMO. 30 years in rental property maintenance. Many are made from Bamboo and also they are tapered. Thanks for the great video.
Applying a little THICK CA glue to the outside parts of the T-nut or threaded insert just prior to driving it in will add to its ability stay put and not spin. Drive it in quick though. I learned this from when I used to build RC airplanes.
Awesome info! My dad showed me most of those tricks.
2:45 tamp down the mush with the snapped off gold tee. Drill a teenie pilot hole after hardining. Solid as Sears.
Dang why didn't I thought of that. Such a simple trick. Brilliant! Instead of using caulk and waiting it to dry....
Great video, so very very useful it’s getting a save!! I have used the toothpicks, matches versions however the other versions are far more exciting and will make me feel like a real handyman lol Thanks Bob England
വളരെ നല്ല വിവരണം. നന്ദി.
I watched a KZhead video where someone compared the strength of a threaded insert vs a straight tapped thread in the hole. Unsurprisingly, a tapped thread in the wood was the strongest connection
Oh my god, I can't believe this works. This has been an issue with my door for 15 years. Thank you.
Where did you get that shirt- I want one!! And thanks I just tried the toothpick in a stripped hole and it worked perfectly.
thanks i used left over kabob sticks laying around the house this work
I thought I inveted that. I usually used wooden matchsticks. You've got some really good ideas here!
They do that on railroad wooden ties, when the spikes no longer hold, they put wooden spikes in, break it off, and hammer metal spike back in, nice and solid
Oh my gosh. Am redoing my kitchen and my first since divorce to learn how to repair myself. Thank you so much!
Toothpicks worked like a charm! So easy.
Always add a drop or two of Elmer's wood glue before adding the toothpicks.
Just found your channel. I can tell I will be watching lots of your videos... so helpful... THANKS! SUBSCRIBED!!!
Run the screw in, back it out, wet inside the hole with thin super glue, wait 5 minutes, run the screw back in to the tapped, harden hole.
Toothpicks always seemed to do the job for me. Grab enough to fill the hole, jam 'em in and break 'em off. Sometimes I put some glue in with them, but that's probably not necessary. Works a treat. I like some of the other ideas, though.
I've used lead plumbing soder for outside tread protesters on marble stairs
Solved a problem for me. Thank you.
Best I have found, used hundreds of times over the years are the chop sticks they're made of bamboo and very hard. Tip: sharpen end with pencil sharpener first, tap into hole and then cut off with side cutters. Has never failed me
Using a rubber plug is also a great help!
I’ve used toothpicks to fill stripped holes, totally works great.
Woud like to know, me, what that drill two tone screwdiver bit that you yuse is. Some sort o drill/scewdriver quick change adaptar?