In this one we try out Koch- Chemie’s Brand new soap! The Reactivation Shampoo is designed to cleanse and reactivate your weathered coating! In this test we will see what coatings can make a comeback and which ones are down for the count!
KCX- kcxusa.com
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Thank you Jamie for sharing your new coating removal process.
Indeed 🤣💪🧼
Lmao 🤣
😂😂😂😂
Great update and content Jamie.
My 2c, I don't know what you've seen over time, but I've tested a bunch of coatings and sealants on a poly shower mirror. The strong alkaline cleaners really do a number on most coatings and sealants, but the acids seem less damaging and bring things back if clogged. Just one application of Adam's Wheel and Tire cleaner (pH 13) will really degrade a ceramic spray sealant on the mirror. Using ActiveFoam and APC a lot probably hurt more than they help a coated car. If RS or Descale don't bring it back it's actually dead.
I had the exact same experience with Reactivation shampoo. It took out a less than 1 year old Mohs EVO that was beading like new just a week prior. Rewash with things such as Reset, GSF, Descale did not bring it back. Reactivation may be using the same chemical as Koch FSE that is a acidic water spot removing detail spray/drying aid that was negatively impacting people's coatings. My advice is to be very careful with it. On the other hand Carpro Descale works great!
Chris Brown once said "its never the right time to say goodbye" USE a brush doesn't that bring it back to "life"
You should make another batch of reactivate and check the pH. Makes you wonder what level it really was, if a single wash had such a significant impact.
Good idea 👍
Oh boy. I ain’t throwing my money on diamonds…
This coating was dead not clogged. Acid washes will release the minerals that clog coatings not revive dead coatings. If you really want a good system for unclogging coatings look into Labocosmeticas 3pH system. Primus and Purifica are next level when it comes to Alkaline and Acid washes. Their process requires an Alkaline pre-wash, rinse, Acid Foam/spray then without rinsing the Acid shampoo you contact wash with a neutral pH shampoo their option is Nève. That combo brings coatings back from the grave.
I just heard about this 3ph system. Its my next purchase
Jamie. I have really bought into DIY details advice to foam the car before rinsing. It really does make the contact wash easier and safer.
I APC rinse first as shown no need for foam 👍
How much active foam do you put in a bucket wash? Great video bro!
I was attempting to revitalize a Gyeon Synchro coating(applied to the car 1 year ago) . I used Bilt Hamber auto wash. PIR of 4 ( as recommended, followed all steps correctly). Followed up with KC RS. The RS KILLED the coating! Used 15ml in foam cannon. Let dwell for 1 plus minutes. Hand contact wash. KC RS did remove the water spots. It removed everything!
Gotta rename it #deactivationsoap lol
I would not try to revitalize a coating with a strong alkaline soap like Auto Wash. I coated a mirror and played with a bunch of chemicals and the alkaline ones did the most damage. Not saying the RS is safe, but I have a feeling it was already on death's door.
@@chrisbradley3224 thank you for your input & your opinions. But as a norm. We routinely perform a maintenance wash with BH auto wash, followed by carpro descale. Every 6 months for our customers who receive a ceramic costing from us. We have never experienced this type of result before. With that said. Maybe we used KC RS incorrectly. Maybe we performed the wash technique/ dilution ratios I correctly. I’m not sure. We no longer install Gyeon products bc of early failures( not associated with maintenance washes). I do not want to 100% point the finger at KC. But we will go back to BH & descale.
@@chrisbradley3224coatings have a resistenace of 2-12 ph usually high alkaline shampoo shouldn’t hurt a real coating at all
@@johnevans715 Resistance isn't some magic immunity. Keep applying alkaline chemicals to a test panel and see what happens. Once or twice, no big deal. Keep doing it and it will weaken it.
I think it’s designed to unclog the coating from water spots, CarPro Descale I do believe is a ph 3 then a little weaker as you dilute it, I’ve used it since it came out and works great! Maybe try using it diluted a little more or for water spots specifically
Definitely will be using it for water spots! 👍🧼
Wow!!! That’s strange. Went from beading to areas getting hit hard. 😮
This threw me a little bit, im wondering if it was too acidic here vs something like the diy water spot remover It looks like the basic soap neutralized it well though The coating is there, maybe the high acidic content masked it
How does Quick Body work on those side panels that are dying it seems?
Hmm I already bought this stuff. Before I realized it was such a low ph. Now I'm afraid to use it. Even kcx says their coating can handle I think ph5-12. Then why they selling a 3 when diluted. I like all their other products. I'm thinking if I use this I'll dilute it even more then what they say. Use a tiny bit.
Yoo Jamie, is that glass coating the Stoners one that you made the 1 year update over 6 months ago? If so, its a very darn impressive coating.
Sure is to Lazy to polish it off haha
@@JamieTheCleaner no need to polish it off if is this strong. Or you cant just resist the impulse to do it and apply a different coating? 🤣
@@nathanaelayala766 yeah just want to try another coating 👍
Hello, was your coating really removed, or the shampoo just blocked the hydrophobic properties? I had the same experience with Cancoat Evo. When there is rain, the water still makes beads, but when washing it and rinsing after, the water is sheeting, not beading.
No we neutralized the shampoo with the wash mitt 👍 this coating is still there but the hydrophobic’s has definitely dropped beyond where this shampoo could bring it back
@@JamieTheCleaner i regret, that i ddin't watch your video and made the same mistake. I'm gonna try the ph neutral hot shampoo, acidic apc and if those 2 won't work, maybe IPA panel wipe would help.
Nice test, but damn I didnt think an acidic shampoo could do that to a coating 😳 Btw what are those blue/white and black/white wash pads/mitts you are using ? Autofiber ?
Mitts are from fiber factory kzhead.info/sun/eM-bYNOJn3-AbIE/bejne.htmlsi=kCZVlcbnNlzGvhlw
@@JamieTheCleaner thanks will check it out 👍
So what's the overall consensus of the Diamond Protech Body 36 coating? I have a local shop that told me he has applied almost every brand of coatings over the 14 years he has been doing this and has found Diamond Protech Coatings to be an excellent product. He does (2) applications of the Body 36 and I'm wondering if I should go with him or ask him to apply a different coating? Need a good coating for a Michigan winter!
Two apps of DB 36 is definitely required at this point 👍 I’d say overall they have good potential but there just seems to be inconsistency with the current rendition of the products
I did not try the DB 36, so I can't say for that, but Diamond Wheels and Quick Body were not very impressive for me. I coated two sets and it failed quickly both times. The glass coating was good though and I actually got a year out of it. I think the lack of videos showing how well something is doing speaks volumes. Jamie is the only one even giving updates.
@@JamieTheCleaner Thanks 4 the feedback
@@chrisbradley3224 Right, not seeing much about this coating. I did see another guy do a very thorough test showing the old company branding and it seemed to do well. What do you recommend?
@@shojus I'm not a pro so I would ask around and defer to what other pros think but I have Gyeon Mohs Evo on my car and so far so good. It's only been 3 months though but behaves as new. I don't think you can go wrong with CarPro, Gyeon, Gtechniq, Adam's, etc. and they are very heavily tested on YT.
How many times have you washed this vehicle yourself? I wonder if forst being sprayed in the same areas every time is causing issues. The front quarter of the hood and lower half of the doors where you’re pretreating looks dead.
Definitely hasn’t helped has it 🤔 but this coating was suppose to be chemically resistant to the whole Ph scale so good test… it failed lol
Idk what to think about all of this. Kinda strange that some of the “stronger” coatings took a huge hit and some of the “weaker” stuff may have gotten a little bit of sheeting back.
Pretty wild lol
They aren't all the same resins. DPT is supposed to be using an inorganic PHPS. The others, who knows. The DPT resin could have less acid resistance than others. I don't believe what ANY coating mfg claims. Many companies don't even understand their own products since they buy all the components from Dow, Merck, etc.
Very interesting, how long had that coating been on there? Looks like the dpt got hit the hardest.
DPT- 13 months Exoforma Graphene- somewhere around 2.5 years Stoner Glass- 1.5 Years Stoner Trim I think is at a year
@@JamieTheCleaner #RIP I guess diamonds aren’t forever
@@Motsdetailing 🫠
What about reset by carpro
Jamie, I am a bit confused why you used Forst in the beginning of this test. Jack even stated that somewhere that it can degrade a coating. Honestly two videos back I felt the coating took a beating on the front edges of the hood and DB36 was dead imho.
It’s diluted 1-1 and no it shouldn’t degrade a coating, Jack doesn’t even sell coatings he is a wax salesman 👍🧼
@@JamieTheCleaner I think the problem is where you get a coating that is already failing or aged. I stopped using products pH > 10 on my coated car and decon with iron remover and Descale if nothing else works. My little mirror testing seems to show that acids are safer than bases on failing sealants. I did test Forst on my mirror and it degraded Gyeon Cure in a couple hits, slightly worse than Brake Buster neat.
Jamie, what is the pH on the Reactivation soap? It could have been a double hit with Forst and the product that might be blocking it up?
Forst Ph-13 but it’s diluted 1-1, Reactivation Soap- Ph 1, 3 at proper dilution, then Active Foam is Ph 8 i believe to neutralize should be no film 👍🧼
@@JamieTheCleaner Just rinsing with a neutral product will be enough to remove any remnants. FYI, my father is a chemist and I worked in his lab for 5 years. We washed glassware with nitric acid and simply rinsed with DI water and can be used straight away for sensitive measurements.
@@chrisbradley3224 nice thx for the info 👍🧼
Was that a bug remover sprayed first/APC, or iron remover?
Bug Remover it’s a pre treatment called Forst
Ya I think that’s weird when I do my maintenance wash I go up and down the pH scale. Myself. Seems to get everything moving again. I used tac system CI foam acidic, then do a high alkaline wash then hit it with a PH neutral wash. Anyway that glass coating bro is doing phenomenal. Very impressive. Your head lights took the biggest hit for sure. 👍🏻 looks like time to recoat!
Reverse the Alk and Acid steps. First high Alk to remove biological contaminants like bugs, film and grime and expose the mineral contaminants underneath. Then hit it with the Acid wash to break down the mineral contaminants and last neutralize it with a Neutral pH soap. Look up 3pH system.
Have toppers masked coating failure and this has removed the topper?
Nope no toppers 👍
If a coating isn’t beading that well anymore, it’s because of salt and minerals right? So all you would need is maybe a quick decon with iron remover and a synthetic decon towel… But for sure just some water spot remover or white distilled vinegar.
This shampoo is a PH 1 👍
In this case it's mostly because the DPT coatings are not very good. The wheel coating failed on me super fast and never worked that well. APC and basic wheel cleaners destroy it. The glass coating is the only good consumer line product.
Will DIY water spot remover do lot of damage to a ceramic? Id assume any sealant or ceramic spray coating it will ding up, but jus ordered some and heard it does really well and isnt crazy harsh on clear or coatings
I need to order and test it out!
Nano cubic zirconias
What did you mean when you said neutralisation problems?
When you use a high or low PH product it changes the Ph of the paint, so you need to come back with an opposite PH product or a ph neutral product to neutralize the surface 👍
@JamieTheCleaner could you just snowfoam a neutral PH soap over the car and rinse it off or does it need a proper wash?
Made it to the thumbnail. Like and subscribe
Is this stuff the same concept as Carpro Descale?
Pretty similar I think this is obviously stronger but not sure 🤔
Nice!!!
11:15 swish
Sounds like companies are out there selling all of us snake 🐍 oil 😂
This poo hits hard 🥊 💥
I think there is residue left. Rinse more thoroughly and possibly hit it with a pH neutral wash after, instead of going to an alkaline product. Also, if you go back after a few hours I bet it will be fine.
To neutralize the surface you have to come back with an opposite ph level 👍
When the coating still works the acids work like magic. Stick a fork in it, this coating is dead.
First🇨🇦