How to Quickly Grow Fruit Trees in the Backyard Orchard
Here I explain our secret for quickly growing fruit trees in our backyard orchard. These are fruit trees bought from a box store and this is how we get them to quickly and consistently produce fruit. This method works especially well with clay soil. Planting fruit trees in your backyard ensures that you have a reliable food forest for generations to come.
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I assure you that clay rich soils contain plenty of nutrients. All I have is clay and sedimentary rock and everything I have planted (that is indigenous) thrives very well.
"Great Channel, Instruction, Instructor !" Thank You Great Shepherd !"❤ 😁👍
Thank you
Ive grown fruit trees for 20 years all ages, as expanding the orchard through time. Always fertilize under the tree, then add a bit of dirt so it doesnt touch the roots and the new roots grow into it. . That rootball was fine, lots of feeder roots that he destroyed,without and large roots circling the bottom. If you do see circiling roots at the bottom, cut them by 1/2. My career was growing fruit trees.
Good advice. What fertilizer do you use?
Make sure you dont cover graft point with dirt or it will turn back into a crab apple
Deer will eat that sob down to the graft if u dont set up wire around it. Takes little effort to keep the tree protected from wildlife. I laughed at him saying "we scare the deer away when we see them"😂
Idiot deer favorite food! Can't be here 24 hrs!!!
Im really loving my soil right now. Im in Massachusetts, i have big rocks that i usually have to dig out. BUT my soil is super dark. Looks like compost and every time I dig i hit tons of earthworms. I went to fertilize my fruit trees and so i moved the mulch to get to the top of the roots and soon as i move the mulch wow. It was like a worm farm. Very happy.
That is awesome! It definitely helps if you have good soil to start with.
I definitely learned first hand about air pockets. Had leaves keep dying till i got that corrected
It happens, ive done the same thing. Glad you got it figured out.
Thanks so much. I’ve lost several because I didn’t know what I was doing! I so appreciate your time and sharing. You’re a wise dude!
I'm glad I could help.
Thank you allways learning
I honestly see trees and plants as life. I actually feel sad when i see a plant fell in the store & is laying on the floor. Also ill go around like an employee and just lossen the dam tags because every time i check out fruit trees, the tags are all choking the tree and ill losen them all & i apologize to the trees for others not fixing it lmao. I do though
The tags do irritate me. I hate seeing trees with the tag so tight it starts girdling the tree.
I thought I was the only person that felt that way. I thought about volunteering to just water these tree in stores!
me too😊
I feel so bad when the plants and trees aren't watered in the stores, I don't understand why they bother even selling them if they don't care that they die.
@@gailsegal6843 same. It hurts me seeing that stuff. It makes me want to ask to keep it since I would take care of it better than they do.
Great video! I learned a lot sir! Keep making videos!
Very good info. I have some apple trees
think i need to do that with my next trees
Nothing better than southern Illinois clay
Yep. But over the years we have been able to improve the soil. It's a slow process for sure.
Good info! Thx!
You are welcome
Excellent information.....truly appreciate your video....The common sense approach, your speaking and sound levels are excellent. Thank you.
Thank you for the feedback
I just bought a couple fruit trees and I'm excited to get them in the ground. Thanks for the tips!
You are welcome! What kind of trees did you get?
Wow learned a lot. Subscribed. Thanks. I was amazed over the angle of the branches and that you mentioned how you could use weights to make the branches 90 degrees. Made sense. Thanks. I want to buy a plum tree next month and was very interested in this.
Thank you!
I would have mixed up all of it with som of that clay so no to get heavy light soil problem . looking like your doing well with it good for you.
I have hard clay soil as well in south Texas and follow the exact same steps with great results (fruit in second year mostly). It helps the tree get established faster instead of fighting for its life. Great video!
That's awesome. It really does make a difference in the overall health and production of the tree.
I have hard clay soil as well in south Louisiana. One thing I do different is I take as much of the top soil as I can get and some of the native clay from the hole I dug, throw it in a wheelbarrow and break it up into smaller pieces and do a 50/50 mix with my mix. As far as the water not draining, I use a plumbers probe and pop a few holes in the bottom to allow for faster draining. I also plant the tree about 4-6 inches higher than the ground level to allow for settling. So far it seems to be working like a charm
@@nuttygnomehomestead you should look into Korean natural farming it has things that help with hard clay soil using bacteria and fungus(the good kind)that is found in nature that can help soften the soil and fight bad bacteria and fungus in the soil it can also be used in many other was in farms if you raise animals that smell bad if can be used to remove the smell or at least lessen it
Thank you
You are very welcome
Thanks!
You are welcome
Thank you I have 2 peach 2 apples and a plumb I need to get planted so thank you for this vid
You're welcome
May you be blessed from all yer hard work. I just got 8 fruit trees put in, just heard of permaculture orchard...trying that route. Nitrogen fixer then 2 trees & another nitrogen fixer, & so on. 2 shrubs between trees, on treeline, also 10-15 edible perennials around @ tree. Working on shrubs & perennials now. Stefan out of Southern Quebec is a great teacher on subject. I'm excited to get my hands back in the dirt !
There is nothing more therapeutic than getting your hands dirty. All of your hard work now will pay off big dividends later. Take pride in your hard work, you've earned it.
So one of the problems with doing the hole this way, is that the roots grow easily in the compost but won't penetrate the hard clay. In five or so years the tree is totally root bound. Often when they die and you pull them up, there is a very tight root ball the exact size of the original hole just like when they come out of a pot that they have been in to long. At least, rough up the sides of the hole.
That's exactly what happens with fruit trees that are planted in compost. Ideally, a little bit of compost can go in when planting, but it's much better to dress the tree with compost after planting so that nutrients are released slowly; this forces the tree to expand its roots. Also, fall planting is fine for southern areas, but spring will give the trees more time to establish roots before it's too cold here in the north country.
This can be the case in some instances. roughing the holes edges, a little bit of amendment in the hole and top dressing can help give the trees a better chance. Some of the trees on the orchard had to be moved a few years ago, and the roots were very impressive. Many of these trees are on their 7-8 years in the ground here. We are constantly working towards bettering our soils.
Thank you for this tip
This can be remedied by mixing compost into native soil which will stimulate roots to go out. However, plants will spread roots naturally with normal environmental pressures. If it dries out plants will expand roots to search for water.
I really like your idea of planting. Thank you this is very smart
Thanks
You're welcome
Should be square hole so roots break through corners and don't spiral. Should also plant them high because you don't want them to settle low which can lead to trouble. Thanks for sharing.
Absolutely we always ensure our trees are above the graft line. I have had to dig up several trees a few years ago to move them in our orchard. None of the roots were spiraled.
@@nuttygnomehomestead yeah the square hole vs circle is a myth, but something to consider is to mix the compost/potting mix with the clay you took out of the hole. the reason i learned from another tree planting video is if the soil you plant the tree in is way nicer than the clay it eventually has to grow into, the tree will be reluctant to do so and can cause the tree's roots to coil around in the rich dirt. that is why people think its because the hole was round.
I roughen/score the walls of the hole. I also make my hole a lot wider.
@@kathleenredick275 that sounds dirty.... :P
That’s exactly how I planted my fruit trees because my yard has very hard clay and you have to make it easier for the roots to grow strong and then they can go through the clay
Absolutely. We are always trying to improve our soil. We had gypsum and organic matter when we can. This helps break up the clay. We also plant cover crops that adds organic matter as well
When I plant my trees I leave the root ball one to two inches above ground in December about 4 months in April i have a few small fruits starting to show I'm in mid Mississippi red clay soil
Very informative,,thanks for shring,I'm planing tohelp my young friend and i mentioned he should planting fruit tree's and berry bush's thanks
You are welcome. Let us know how the planting goes!
I like to add a 4 inch layer of mulch in the spring before i plant in winter. The worms start breaking down the whole area making for easier planting. After planting i add 4 inches of mulch as well. I also mulch about a 6' square so the roots will grow wide.
Great advice. The mulch does well for weed suppression. And since the feeder roots are towards the surface, as the mulch breaks down it will feed the trees.
I have hard red clay soil . I used weathered bales of straw and alfalfa and added it to the whole to help weather retention through our dry late spring through fall
That's a good idea. With heavy amounts of clay, we like to add a lot of organic matter as well as some gypsum to help break up the clay molecules. Bales of straw and hay are an excellent source of organic matter.
Learned that if you will pop off a few firecrackers you won't have time worry about the deer
Really nice peach bud's started, will frost hurt already started tiny peach starts?
Unfortunately, yes. The frost can damage the peaches. However, the leaves on the trees may protect some of the peaches that already started to grow. We had a light frost this morning, and after checking our fruit, it does not appear we had too much damage.
I have soil very similiar to yours. Two things that I also do in addition to everything shown is to take a pitch fork and stab the sides of the hole, otherwise the tree can become pot bound in the hole. I also mix about 40% of the native soil in with the added "good soil" to ensure soil capillary action brings water in from the surrounding ground.
Good advice.
We have started using a drill with wood bit to make deep holes throughout the lower sides and bottom.
, N. How do you plant a cherry tree a black tartan cherry? What do you need to put in with its roots? I got the title up but I don’t know what to do next.
you can strategically use some gypsum in your land if you have clay soil.
Absolutely! Gypsum is great for clay soil.
Hi just found your channel Thank you for sharing What kind of grass is that you was saving to ues some were elsewhere Thank
It's zoysia grass. Very sick lush green carpet-like grass. Makes for beautiful lawns. It spreads quickly, up to 10% or so annually. Anytime we disturb or zoysia grass, We save the patch for somewhere else in the yard.
Thank you so much for getting back I appreciate it
Unfortunately you created an in ground “pot” for the tree. In the future you should put 50% of the soil back into the hole with your soil recipe. The roots will grow extremely well for the first 5 years and when the roots hit that clay soil they will start to choke itself out because it’s used to “stress free soil.” It’s never had to grow into thick tough clay and will take the path of least resistant and turn on its self. Also I’d recommend making the hole 3x the root ball size (for areas of clay soil) in width as well. Hope that’s helps and happy growing. (Just want ya to get the most from your trees)
How do you keep the bugs/insects and wasps off the fruit to keep it healthy and edible? We had fruit on our tree the second year but it was eaten by wasps. Peach tree in west Texas. Thanks
We like neem oil for pest control. Kaolin clay can be sprayed on the fruit to help prevent them from eating/boring into them. If wasp are an issue, hang a brown paper bag in a location close to the orchard. It mimics a hornet's nest, and hornets prey on wasp. Works well in your shop/garage too for wasp deterrent.
@@nuttygnomehomesteadthanks! We also had bores on our Red Oak that was a few years old and pretty much killed it. It is about 13’ tall and has 2-3 branches that are producing leaves. I dug up some around the bottom and the soil has white almost powdered looking substance about 5-6” down.
👍
For the deer find a companion nitrogen fixer plant that the deer don’t like so much whether it’s by smell or thorns. Some do exist but it varies depending upon your area
That's a good idea.
what state are you in to give us more background, SW Florida here, alot of sand, small amount soil
We are in Southern Illinois, zone 7A
How far south are you? Started building my home orchard and vineyard in southern IL also. Upto 25 or so planted and 15 personal grafts il plant next year if they take.
We are in zone 7A. There are lots of orchards and wineries around here. Sounds like you are well on your way for getting an orchard started.
Yeah I think I'm on the new verge of 7a. But still 6b like I was last year. Their isn't many more towns south of me in IL. I'm way down here
Miracle grow and water is the easiest way
We have new barefoot apples coming in a month or two… I need to find a way to protect them from voles! I am in southeast Idaho… high desert mountains Have been told to wrap the deep holes 6-12 inches deep with 1/8” hard wire And then wrap the tree in hardwire as well…
If rabbits and voles are an issue, I highly recommend using the hardware cloth for protection. When deer are a concern, I use tree tubes.
😊 thank you
Week How do you plant a sweet cherry tree a tartan, sweet cherry? How do you handle it?
We have only grown bush cherries on our farm. I don't have any experience with the Tartan sweet cherries. Our bush cherries we grow in larger containers.
Do I have to have more than 1 apple trree to produce fruit. I'm not sure what Strain, it is but I picked it up at homedepot. Any insite would be appreciated.
No, however having more than one can greatly increase production because of cross pollination.
I am retired in California. Now I am looking for modest home in suburban, where I can grow my own fruit garden and keep chickens. May I ask is there any affordable homes with space for garden in were you live?
It's mostly farm land here. Occassionally you can find a house in the country with a little bit of land. But those are usually sold before they even hit the market. It's an absolute blessing I was able to get my farm.
Your soil is very much like mine but I'm on an island in the PNW with massive amounts of glacier rocks. My planting holes were done much like yours but the outer areas were jackhammered out to allow root growth expansion. So many of my neighbors put their trees and bushes in holes just like this and they go root bound. They literally choke the life out of themselves.
That's horrible. To put in that much work for them to get root bound.
My golden delicious apple keeps getting yellow leaves, ive fertilized, watered im about to give up on it this is second year, i have clay soil also i did amend it at planting. Mine was horse pasture too.
Please don't give up, fruit trees are a wonderful gift that keeps on giving. Do you have cedar trees around? Cedar apple rust will leave yellow/brown leaves.
Hi , i recently bought persian lime tree from home depot its foot or more in height, should i plant it ground or wait n potted up bigger pot as scale till it gets bigger? I live in Houston tx.
I'm a big fan of sizing the pot to the plant. When I started my lemon tree, it was in a 1 gallon pot. Then I upgraded to a 5 gallon bucket. And then finally to a 25 gallon mineral tub. That allows me to keep a better adjustment on the soil. And it's easier to move around.
Hi. Houston TX too. Plant your lime in soil. Now okay. Make certain hole is draining good. Nice 1' wide donut mulch 8 " from trunk. If wilted in morning needs some water. Keep calendar of rain. Use a good organic mulch, none of that dyed stuff. Feed every few months w microlife, rabbit, chicken litter, guinea pig manure. Prepare to protect from any freeze, low temp, below 34°. Lightweight frost cloth cover, surround base w bags of oak leaves. After low temps return to 40's, uncover, remove bags. Keep trees below 7-10' to easily cover yr after yr. Contrary to the warming hype, Houston winters are increasingly erratic with frequent hard freezes. It's worth the effort to cover and protect your citrus. One grapefruit tree can yield 50 delicious juicy fruit. Sure go ahead and plant your little tree. Do it right and maybe put a white 1' high clrcle fencing to protect from traffic. Give her a name and keep a planting journal. Your little lime is now a member of the family. 🌱
I have started an apple tree from seed. When should the first pruning be?
Starting apples from seed candy be a lot of fun. Often, the seedlings grow slowly. I would wait until the the seedlings are around 4-5' tall before attempting to prune. You can however train the tree for form. As a matter of fact, doing so at an early age will make pruning easier later.
I have a question. During the winter. How do you keep these trees from freezing. Especially the citrus 🍋🍊
Use a 50 gallon barrel full of water and place it snugged against your citrus tree. Cover the tree and the barrel to protect from the freezing wind. The barrel with water creates a thermal atmosphere keeping your protected. The bigger the tree, the more barrels you’ll need.
@@rickyaguilerathat sounds great I think we will do that. I do so appreciate your reply
Are lemon tree we bring inside the house. We are blessed with a nearly 200 day growing season here in Southern Illinois. However our winters can fluctuate in temperature greatly. The fruit trees tend to go dormant. Are apples, pears, peach, plums, elderberries etc can we stand the winter when they are dormant. Look for trees specifically for your zone, and pay attention to the number of chill hours required to set fruit. That will greatly increase your odds of having a productive orchard.
@@nuttygnomehomestead thank you. I'm zone 8 now. I thought I'd list 2pear trees from last yr freeze blast but their now leafing out now. So I'm hoping my apple , satsuma, peach, and pear trees survive ! Although I'm planning on bringing in my satsuma. I put those in a 7 gallon pot.
When bying fruit trees the tag stated not to add amy fertilizer until next season. Im confused now.
Synthetic fertilizers are the most common, and can severely burn new roots. That is why the tag says not to add it. However, natural organic fertilizers like compost or rabbit manure are not as aggressive and can be added when planting. This kind of fertilizer well not damage your roots.
How many years of growth do you have for reference with this method?
These trees have been planted between 1-6 years. All of our trees are grafted, which allows us to harvest fruit sooner. Being grafted, we typically seen fruit the 2nd or 3rd season.
What about squrls or other animals might try to devour the fruit from the trees?
Where do a pretty good job of thinning our squirrels out during season. The dog does a pretty good job at running off the ones we miss.
Hint he didn’t mention; always buy trees & shrubs in containers with real root. Bare root trees will barely survive summer.
I don’t have rabbits but I do have cows. Can I do the same with cow manure?
Cow manure needs to be composted before being used due to weed seeds. I like to compost my cow manure for 6-9 months with wood chips and grass clippings. This tends to get it hot enough to kill the weed seeds.
Cow and horse manure good. Compost for 6 months min, keep lightly moist. OR soak the manure in construction tub for a few weeks. Rot out the weed seeds and beware the high acid ph. Dilute 2 parts water-1 part tea The tea makes good fertilizer, both on soil and/or aerial spray. Shred the well soaked manure to mix in garden, top off pots. Worm love it.
that grow bag is air-pruning the roots which effect you can see - dense roots! and not root bound really, else there'd be circling of roots...raw manure? already aged? best would have been to mix aged manure and your potting mix? not here to question your method if your experience tells you to do it but new transplant sitting on manure?...blessings
Air pruning is a good thing, we use it for a lot of plants. The rabbit Manure is considered a cold manure and can be applied directly to plants without harm. That coupled with our homemade potting mix gives these plants nutrients they get started in these less than ideal locations. This has proven very effective over the last decade in our reclaimed horse pasture turned orchard. Our goal is to continually improve the soil. Continually adding green manure such as our mode cover crops not only helps feed the soil from the top, but the roots help improve drainage and add nutrients deep in the soil as well. I would not attempt this with horse, cow, or chicken manure, but since we produce a couple of tons of rabbit manure annually, we use it on all of our gardens and plants.
@@nuttygnomehomestead well now, that is wonderful - rabbit manure is cold manure. would never think any manure can be applied raw. perhaps i should raise rabbit if only for that...mygreathanks and blessings
❓ No cardboard on top for weed suppression?
No. We get a lot of wind here, and cardboard would just blow away. We have zoysia grass in part of our orchard, and the other part is in clover.
you need to dig much wider. don't know how much rain you get but the drainage on our land is really poor. you are going to have problems as the trees mature. how deep does that clay go? if you have a backhoe, dig a test hole deep and see if you can get to better soil a bit lower. as for plants to break up your soil, one of the best is great mullein. it has a very deep taproot that goes way deep on the first year, then flower stalk up on the 2nd year. i recommend you start spreading it all over that field. it will not hurt your trees at all and if you do this for a few years, your soil will loosen up and drain much better. they also attract earth worms. when they are in flower all 2nd summer, they attract pollinators as well. they are the best plant to help you with your problem and you are likely to find wild seed heads in the fall that you can take with thousands of seeds. i do not have your problem at my orchard but i grow them anyway. the seed heads left over winter are a great help with birds as they stick out of snow and provide food for birds too. it is the most useful plant and my favorite. odd that most people kill them as weeds. pure stupidity.
Mullien also made into tincture , mummy's or an oil is a great lung cleanser. expectorant.
Gummys
@@sparkyh62 also great wound dressing and skin soothing. great plant 🙂
I make mullein tincture and cough syrup I even smoke it, it makes a smooth relaxing smoke! ❤
Greetings, I bought two dormant trees from Tractor Supply last year (2023 spring) An apple and a peach tree with the roots inside a plastic bag. The trees are about five feet tall. Due to family illness I never got around to planting them. : ( I still have them on my porch and am wondering if they are still viable and should I bother with planting them. I live in Zone 7.
If they have survived the winter, then maybe stunted. However if they were watered regularly, there's a good chance they can be salvaged. Are they green? Have they tried to leave out?
@@nuttygnomehomestead OK. This is embarrassing. I am a complete idiot. I wasn't aware that dormant trees had to be watered. The root ball is tightly wrapped in plastic. They were inside the store when I bought them. The store wasn't watering them either.. Well, guess I need to buy two more trees. Thank you for your help. Say a prayer for the next two. I am still learning.
I was at Lowe's yesterday. All of their berry bushes were dead! They let them just dry up and die. How is that cost effective to anyone?
That's such a waste
Too bad Iowa farmers didn't think about topsoil instead of money and chemicals, oh and the check in the mailbox(no tax)
Here in Southern Illinois, we are seeing more farmers move to cover crops to help build soils and reduce the application of fertilizer and weed killer.
The problem i have is squirrels lol
You seem like a really nice guy. I hesitated to reply for that reason, but decided to anyways, just in-case somebody uses this video as a guide. Everything you did was wrong. Seriously. I've been planting fruit trees for 36 years and learned many things the hard way, and a lot from white papers through universities. My comments are more for those watching this video so they will have good success. First, the hole. Too deep. It should never be deeper that the root ball bottom, and can even be slightly less deep that that. And do not put soft soil or organics under the root ball. These trees do NOT have tape roots. Their roots will grow out horizontally. Unless... there is a lack of rain and you put organics below them. Planted the way I saw in the video, the roots will bend downward to get moisture. Now they are stuck at hard pan. To strive to survive, they will then circle in that hole... because it is filled with soft material and the walls of the hole are smooth like concrete. Now you will have a weak tree that will whip around in the wind and bend over. The roots will not go into the native soil because the soil is too hard that deep and there is no nutrients that deep. This is called planting in a tea pot. The next thing that will happen is the organics will break down and your tree will sink, along with that "soil" you buried with it (that is nothing but 100% organics). Now you have a tree in a sink-hole. When you get a lot of rain, it will fill your teapot and drown the roots and cause crown rot. That tree could survive for a while the way you planted it. You essentially just gave it a bigger pot. However, over time it will either fail, or simply stop growing. A better way to plant it would be to dig the hole twice as wide as the root ball, but no deeper than the bottom of root ball, and preferably slightly less deep. Rough up the edges of the soil so the sides are not smooth. Chop up the sod into the soil you dug out so you have some organics and regular native soil to add back to the hole. Add some of this soil and water around the root ball. Add more soil, then water, until the soil is used up. Be sure the graft is above the soil line, unless you are planting apple trees that you want to be standards. If you planted the root ball shallow, you can then dig a mote around the edge of the hole and put that sod you just dug up, upside-down near the tree. This will allow water to accumulate in the mote and trickle it to the outside of the hole for the roots to reach out to. There will also be a slight mound up to the trunk of the tree that will protect the trunk from crown rot caused by moisture. Now you can mix your rabbit manure with your compost and then spread that around as nutrients and mulch. (but not up against the trunk) Fill in the mote with this mulch as well. Now water it really well and keep it watered. Never let it dry out the first year. What will happen is that the roots will grow out horizontally closer to the bottom of the tops soil where it can get nutrients and moisture. Your native soil will eventually pack around the roots to anchor it well. And because there is a slight mound up to the trunk, the trunk will stay dry and give you enough depth around the tree to add mulch every year. This protects the trunk from rot and borers. Now wrap the bottom of the trunk with hardware cloth that is 2' tall and is wide enough so the tree will not rub against it in the wind. Stake the hardware cloth down with a short rod. The hardware cloth will stop voles and rabbits from girdling your tree. You are not done yet! Now pound four t-posts in around the tree. Wrap 2x 3" fencing around the posts, leaving one end unfastened with a clip so you can get at the tree when needed. This fence should be about 6 to 10 inches off the ground so you can weed-whack the grass under it. The fence will give the tree 3 to 4 years of growth without deer pressure. Trim your tree each year so the branches will grow above the fence and out of the way of deer browse. For the width of the fencing, I simply make an X with the tree in the center and the posts at the end of the x points. It is 3' between the tree trunk and a post. You should use 5' fencing. Once a year you can add more aged manure and mulch around the tree. This will feed the soil and the soil will feed the tree. And each year, make the circle of mulch wider so the roots grow outward under it. When the tree outgrows the fence, remove the fence and then paint the trunk with a mixture of equal parts of water, white latex paint, and drywall spackling. This will deter the voles and rabbits. For the buck rubs, I hang a round cone of deer block fabric from the limbs to protect the trunk. You could even spray the fabric with deodorant to give it a scent. I haven't needed to spray mine, though. Whatever you do, do not pee around your fruit trees, thinking it will deter deer. It draws bucks in. Is this method more difficult? You bet! However, you will not lose trees (saves money and time because you will not be replanting every couple years). You will also get stronger trees over time. The fruit on the trees will also be above the heads of the deer so you will not experience branch breakage and stolen fruit. Your harvest will be delayed by one or two years because you will be pruning upwards to build your structure higher. But in the long run, you will reap dividends from your work. The very first apple tree I planted 36 years ago is still going strong. I get more apples from that one tree than my entire family can use. (all adults now) The deer sometimes can't even keep up with the drops. If you have deer pressure, only use standard sized trees. Otherwise, you are feeding the deer fruit trees. I also do not recommend anyone using dwarfs. Their roots are not strong enough. Do note, if you have really hard packed soil, you may want to consider sub-soiling and then cultivating before planting. If you do not have that equipment, then use a broad fork to break up the soil around the tree so the roots will have an easier time growing outward. If you don't have that, then use a shovel and a garden fork to break up the soil. The more time you put into planting, the more success you will have. All the best.
Ja, I use most all of the things you mention. Only semi -dwarf because of space constraints.
I agree with everything beside the dwarf statement.
Yes, what he said!
I’ve given up on growing anything, the bloody squirrels are stripping everything bare before they are ripe.
Don't give up. I plan on doing a video on how we mitigate squirrel, deer, and raccoon damage later this year.
They may be thirsty, try setting up a bird bath or just put a large planter saucer on the ground nearby and fill it every day with fresh water; then they may be less likely to take a bite out of fruit. You can also add some hot sauce to water in a spray bottle and spray it on to deter them and deer.
Get some cats
We have new barefoot apples coming in a month or two… I need to find a way to protect them from voles! I am in southeast Idaho… high desert mountains Have been told to wrap the deep holes 6-12 inches deep with 1/8” hard wire And then wrap the tree in hardwire as well… 6:41
Yes, lol, however.....as kittens they will be swinging on the branches....mine have broken branches on several fruit trees....can't win!
You put me in a coma 😅
watched a video on young apple trees....guy said, first 5 years pick off all the blossoms, so you don't have ANY apples.....It lets the tree get taller & stronger....then at year 6, let it take off....it makes a better tree long term...
Absolutely, that is a good way to get a good established tree. Our first year we pick the blooms off the trees. And any subsequent apples we may have missed. We like to let the tree establish a good root system before they attempt to put on fruit. This little sacrifice early will allow us to reap big rewards later.
@@nuttygnomehomestead In the past, when i planted apple trees, they all died w/ in 2 years....I think my soil, isn't "good enough"....just too many problems so....this time i went w/ a persimmon & two Pear trees...maybe they'll survive...?
Plant wide not deep
No offense, but isn't amending the planting hole exactly what horticulturists warn us _not_ to do, especially in clay soil? It's like planting in a pot with poor drainage: Over time, your tree roots will struggle to adapt to your native clay; stay in the hole, where conditions are optimal, rather than extend out; and circle around each other. If you must amend, amend the _entire_ area, like 4 feet (or wider) from the stem.
Not exactly. We are giving the tree the best possible chance to thrive in an adverse condition. These trees are severely stressed when they come from the nursery. To take a stressed tree, and plan it in the poor soil is a recipe for disaster. By amending the soil in the root hole, we are giving our tree a chance to thrive before tackling the clay. As a Forester, we try to look at overall ecosystem health. Soil improvement, to benefit the trees, trees to benefit use and wildlife. Our orchard was started nearly a decade ago. We are constantly attempting to improve the soil for the betterment of our trees. Cover crops, compost, etc go a long way in naturally improving a soils overall health thus benefiting our orchard.
In addition the tree ball will sink as the organic matter breaks down.
Bad idea, anyone will tell you, dig hole and only put the dirt you dug out to fill back in. Compost will just make the roots stay in that area. They won't spread out. In few years those trees will die
Thank you for your comment. However, I will disagree that the roots will only stay in the compost. At one point a few years ago, some of these trees had to be moved. When they were dug up, we had to cut through many roots several feet past the original hole. These trees are all thriving today.
You also shouldn’t plant trees close to your foundation or they can cause issues. So which is it? Are roots weak and refused to grow out into hard compact soils, or are they strong enough to break concrete?
Yes..I found out the hard way. I did the same things that he did and they were beautiful and productive but they died suddenly..all plums and peach trees died. After a few years. When u know better u do better..
@@nuttygnomehomestead Hey man, he's right. Especially with clay soil. Fill your hole back up with clay and put your compost on top, then dress it with mulch 👍
Filling a clay hole up with compost could also cause root rot
Plant fruit trees in the fall not in May/Summer!!!!!!
Yes, I do prefer to plant in late summer or fall. However, working multiple jobs, I plant when it is convenient for us.
Placing organic matter right up against tree roots seems counter productive and unnatural. In nature, organic matter does not exist "in the hole" .. it exists on the top of the ground where it is diluted by water and eventually reaches the roots. If adding organic matter to the hole at planting is beneficial... why don't we re-dig the hole every year and add more manure to keep the tree "fed?"
I plan to give my trees the best possible jump start that I can. By adding organic matter to the bottom of the hole before I plant them, they produce fruit faster, grow better, and are overall healthier then I'm going to keep doing it. We often find that applications of mulch and fertilizer, via top dressing, is advantageous to the overall health and productivity of the tree. If one was to continually dig up their trees, they would do more damage than good.
Someone was cranky as he wrote this. Putting food in the hole while the hole is already open makes a lot more sense than digging up a tree to feed it. U see that right?
Counter productive in what way? Plants want organic matter to feed on, and being a good steward to nature means giving them a leg up. Your comment is actually one of the dumbest things I’ve read today😂
@@TinMan445In nature, organic matter does not occur where the roots are. Organic matter comes from living things dying on top of the ground, breaking down and nutrients absorbing into the soil. Placing manure or dead organic matter in the hole is counter productive to giving a tree what it needs to thrive. Decaying organic matter touching tree roots is not beneficial, it’s detrimental. Another way of saying counterproductive…
In nature plants don’t pick up their roots and move to replant themselves either. We are doing damage by pot growing them then transplanting. The compost is like convalescent food to help them adjust to the shock of transplanting and come through it stronger. The sweet tasty compost triggers a bunch of root action which helps over the life of the plant going forward. Like feeding sick people chicken soup instead of raw bloody meat. Chicken soup doesn’t exist in nature but it would make me feel better than slapping fresh killed Bambi to my face. 😮 did that last sentence sound like a porn movie title? 🤦♀️ omg my sister would be proud.