EV CHARGER installation UK - can you connect to an existing CONSUMER UNIT?
We look at some of the electrical design considerations when installing an EV charger with an existing electrical installation.
We review the choice of RCD, availability of matching MCBs and the option to add a surge protection device.
We also look at the meter tails and how they've been split to add a new consumer unit.
== 🕐 Time Stamps - Cut to the action 🕕 ==
00:00 Connecting an EV charger to an existing consumer unit
00:54 What's the problem with type AC RCD's
01:30 No need for RCD protection as the cable is clipped direct
01:56 Can you get an existing MCB?
02:40 New consumer unit best option for this installation.
03:00 A great opportunity to add a surge protection device
04:20 Where's the labels Gaz?
05:00 Short conductors for surge protection device
05:30 Splitting meter tails for the new consumer unit.
08:00 Current transformer for demand management
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📹 Presented by
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Joe Robinson - Technical Editor eFIXX
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#efixx #evcharging #bs7671
Installing and EV charger - WATCH THIS FIRST 👉kzhead.info/sun/qtKmh5qPcJxuY4E/bejne.html
Hello eFIXX. I have a question unrelated to the video, but since I'm getting different answers everywhere I look I am kinda desperate and I know you guys will be able to answer it. Can tinned copper lugs be used with an aluminum cable?
Seems like it would have been easier & cheaper to have upgraded the existing domestic consumer unit to the current standard that requires it to be housed in a metallic casing, that way the property’s up to current code, no issue with matching breakers & a nice simple installation with much safer RCBOs.
Considerably more expensive though
Customer never wants to spend 💷💷
Great video lads. Really helps with keeping the knowledge in the trade up to current standards 👌
Speaking as a non electrician, but as a retired plumber,I found this very interesting, from the point that We now know how it should be done, and it is a little more complicated to do than I thought, especially that surge control. thanks a lot for this one.
you were gonna try and knock one in yourself wernt ya hahaha
Further to longer comment about difficulty in finding good electricians, I've found you can put 3 electricians in room and watch a pretty heated row involving 4 different ways of doing something, each swearing the regs say different things and slagging off each other's choice of fitting.
thats because most new electricians are lost in too many technical bullshit items , rule of thumb , consult the regs and use some common bloody sense
Way down here in NZ everything must be on RCDs.. apart from fixed appliances like oven and hot water. Average house will have at least 3x RCD. That cable clipped to the timber would not comply. Interesting to see how other countries do things..
Regs are a big updated con sometimes they make you do an entire course for only a few pages added from the previous regs ie 18th from 17th. Also there are SO many Electricians who wire differently and its a headache as we all have different ways of wiring. Surge protection can be nonsense as alot of new devices have built in surge protection inside the circuits in new electric cars and electronic components in entertainment products. Also it depends how fast you want to charge your vehicle. I know someone who wanted 16mm cable to charge there car. Which can carry from 57 to 85 Amps. Even your shower doesn't need that.
I'm a Yorkshire Electrician, God said I can't be wrong even when I'm wrong
@@andywarrington4738 It's because electricians are not trained well enough. Many really don't understand electricity, but because they are electricians and have had some limited amount of training, they think they know it all. Put those electricians in a room with qualified electrical engineers and they lose every time.
So glad you touched on Type Testing
The tails inside the meter cupboard needed identifying, ie L or N or Brown or Blue, great video. Looking forward to more videos on this very hot topic.
Why do they?
@@niceguy235uk1 why don't they?
🤔
Great video as always, quick question on the SPD. I appreciate that model is advertised as 'universal', but is that enough? Do you need to confirm with the CU manufacturer, in this case Crabtree, that they are happy for it to be installed in their board? So far I have not found a CU manufacturer who has written in their instruction that a universal SPD can be used. They all state that only their own can be used. I'd love to find one that allows this!
good video lads, just shows there are lots to consider when fitting an EV charger
Very informative video as always Gaz and Joe!
For those Hager boards - the MT-series MCBs (and the new ADA series compact RCBOs) will - per Hager's technical department - fit in the older plastic CUs as well as the newer Design 10 and Design 30 metal CUs.
Exactly
One may argue that this translates to a lot less hours, given it is extremely straight forward.
Fantastic video Gaz and Joe 👍
i feel humbled by his level of knowledge
He's a clever bloke old Gaz. Joe
Interesting, although the meter end looked ropey to me, straggly tails unsupported or colour identified ..
Excellent video, thank you.
Excellent - very clear explanation
Get on E-bay for old breakers. There is usually some bright spark that saves them off old boards and sells them on.
Another top notch video guys. I do love a Starbreaker board.....
Thanks for adding captions for the Deaf. Makes your video much clearer and better to understand, gave video a like and subscribed.
Thanks Jim 👍🏻
Great video. Sadly cancelled my EV Charge Point install today after contractor tried to rip me off.
Has the house got LED down lights? Those causes dc leakage issues too. I would always recommend a new consumer unit. Wouldn't a time delayed rcd solve the selectivity issue? Where are the Isolation switches at the meter? How much did the DNO charge to pull the fuse?
On the subject of EV charger installation, I'd asked my DNO (Western Power) to check my service fuse rating as I'm looking at getting an EV. I've just come off the phone to the local office - they were very helpful and explained that the maximum they would fit is 80A. But, and as a policy that is only a couple of weeks old, if that is not adequate for an EV charger and the other house loads, they would upgrade the supply to 3 phase for free (3 X 80A). To say I was surprised is an understatement - I asked if this means they will dig up the road and was told yes. I said it sounds very German and she said that is what they are moving to, with a phase for the EV charger, a phase for the heat pump and one for the house. On new build they now provide a 3 phase incomer, blanking off 2 phases if only a single phase supply is required. Has anyone else heard this, or seen it in practice?
That's a new one, but makes sense because of the obsession with the government's push for electric, which is not the silver bullet most think it is, but that's another issue. There was a time when suppliers wouldn't fit a 3 phase supply in a meter box, always had to go on an inside wall. Looks like they are going back to the old days, occasionally you come across 2 phases where one was used for heating.
Had cut out here replaced a few months ago, (Western Power) offered me the same upgrade the supply to 3 phase for free (3 X 80A) FOC.😲
@Dark Dreamz it's supposed to be 400v now, but is still 415, that's between phases, you still have 230v phase to neutral.
@@stuartandrews4344 Did you go for that, and if so, what have you installed as a consumer unit? The WPD document suggests 3 separate consumer units (or 2 of you only need 2 phases) and 3 phase DBs tend to be a bit big for domestic use.
@@NickW1111 Been very tempted, but I'm still mulling it over,as it would give me 80A for house, 80A for new workshop & 80A for EV charger,but COVID has delayed workshop build. Was it this WPD Document? www.westernpower.co.uk/downloads/3347
Awesome video. Learnt a lot there. Thank you efixx
Re: Using the same type of breaker topic around 2:05 mark - when electricians install new CU's' is it standard practice to advise the customer to have some spare MCB's/RCBO's in case new circuits are added in future? As a homeowner I just assumed I could always get hold of a breaker from the same manufacturer and it would be backwards compatible
That’s a nice install but it seems a large extra cost for a new consumer unit and main fuse mods for the sake of tracking down the right Hager MCB on the existing none RCD side. Is that the only reason why you wouldn’t come off that spare way?
How does the surge protector work then? It's not a Crabtree device so it is surely not appropriate to fit in a Crabtree consumer unit? I would also be a bit disappointed if the EV charger didn't have surge protection built in.
I would have been inclined to use an adaptable box below original board and split the tails with line taps to feed other board and use a spd incorporated main switch in the meter box. Hager breakers do fit old consumer units so perhaps new board not required if SPD placed before original consumer unit.
Always good to hear different engineering opinions. 👍
Personally, if it were me, I would have used a spare way in the existing board, and if I had to install a SPD I would have used an in-line unit in its own enclosure, and not had any joints in the tails.
Having two 100amp main mcbs on separate boards in the property allows a potentially combined flow of 200amps from one mains incoming 100amp supply can lead to overloading on the mains hrc no??
Could you please explain why the supply cable to the ev charger could be non RCD protected? You indicated that as it's clipped direct to the fabric, it's not a requirement? I was under the impression all domestic circuits now have to be 30ma protected?
If the cable is surface clipped, visible and unlikely to be damaged then you don’t require an RCD.
@@efixx Guys, can we have a pointer to regs regarding this? It seems like a strange exception for a T+E cable loaded with 32A for hours and supplying "socket-outlet for current-using equipment for use outside" and protected only by a built-in RCD without any physical means of testing...
Why no sealing wires on the Henley blocks ? nice and tidy way of supplying the Charger through a new CU, I have seen a few nasty ones over the last year or so
Does the earth Henley block become a main earth terminal and so need a Safety Electrical Earth label by it?
Is there a requirement for the main tails to be identified by blue/brown ?
Thanks for this video , very helpful 👍 I’m a qualified electrician did my exams back in 2000 /2002 but things have certainly changed since then!
Thanks for watching and the kind words
@@efixx reminds me of my apprenticeship days them Hager consumer units! Still got plenty of spare mcbs for them (with the black switches!) .
Yep Paul they sure have , up 18 now more lolly for the examiners . Getting areal rip off for tradesmen , my son just done iphis 18 cert £650 ? I forget !
Great video, would you expect an installer to run through their plans with the customer or just get on with it? Considering most customers won't know what should or could be supplied? Please try to avoid the word 'obvious'! Soon as you say that you assuming which is never good..
Very Informative
Another fantastic video!
Thanks
Have you used a 2.5 out of the 32a MCB feeding the surge protection ? Is that too small ?
nice to see the circuits labelled in that new board...
Watch and LISTEN 👍🏻
Just to throw a potential spanner into the works!! Are the tails, both the new set and the old set, run through the wall cavity? And, if this is the case, do these tails require additional protection?
I wouldn't say so, they're not buried in the wall feeding an accessory, they come through in a straight line and are clearly visible. You'd have to actively be trying to drill into them. 👍
Brilliant I'm gonna set one up soon
Brilliant video as always though Hager, known for backwards compatibility of boards/devices possibly not the best choice for demonstration purposes.
Spread the word on this - amazing how many folks ram any old breaker in.
@@efixx Seen that all too often with Wylex and other boards but not a usual thing with Hager down this way. Possibly people are just used to working on/with the brand more.
@@efixx its a major problem isnt it. I did note that the existing hager board had a new style breaker in it.
The video shows a new Hager MCB type in the board already. 😂
So can you explain why you cant just change out the AC RCD on the existing board for a Type A and then add a 40amp MCB for the EV circuit? Thanks
Something to note is some manufacturers now suggest a 40 amp MCB for surge device. Definitely would seal the meter cabinet holes , but it looks very neat . Can I ask if the RCD protection was built into the charger and last time I did an EV point it was made TT . As always a great useful vlog
Inside the Zappi 2 smart electric vehicle EV charger which doesn't need an earth rod on TNCS systems kzhead.info/sun/mtummauebaZ5m30/bejne.html Great technology in the Zappi hence no earth rod required...
Great video guys! 👍
Thanks Jordan. 😊
I see a Zappi, is that an Artisan special!!!
Thanks to Jordan and his vids, if im asked for a car charger now. I recommend the Zappi and its features. And significantly better delivery than another brand. Hasten to say that im not brown nosing Jordan, its just a better unit and thats clear to see.
@@paulprescott7913 Thanks Paul!
@@harrycollins4347 I didn't install this one but its a lovely looking install!
Just watched your other video about looped systems. You mentioned that 2 cables coming in means a looped system, and that's trouble for EV chargers. Is this not a looped system then? As it has 2 cables coming into the property.
That RCD with the sine wave indicates a type AC ,however Hager RCDs have a 'shark fin' next to that indicating it's a type A RCD .
Google the part number
why you consumer unit dont have a wood board in the back ? in one of you video you says was a regulation ? pls help me to understand by the was learn a lot from you video pls continue thanks
Really interesting, from the horror photos my electrician shows me I suspect in most properties a rewire would be needed before even thinking about installing a charging point.
One good reason to use an external CU is that the electrician installing the charging point doesn't have to poke too much into your domestic wiring, although I suppose if the DNO fuse is to be upgraded, then they might have to look at tails and bonding and once that starts, then heaven knows what they might find.
Nonsense. We're lucky in the UK to have 230V AC with (mostly) a 100A main fuse to every home. This means almost every home will both have wiring capable of carrying 100A to the CU and an EV charging at 7kW to take only 1/3 of that power. Installing an extra CU is only recognising that whoever installed the home never envisaged ever needing all of that 100A, not that it's problematic to need it.
..does the RCD being in the Charge point protect from PEN fault ?.. wouldnt usualy export the pme to external supplies
This is all well and good on a house that is not overly old but what about a house that was built in 1979 lol apparently we need to have a new fuse or something since ours can not handle EV charging and its the original electrics, outside we do have a newer electric meter and gas meter installed but inside we have the original metal wall plate that has a row of black switches on to turn parts of the houses electric off. when i see videos about EV installations its always newer houses with the type of wall boxes shown at 0:43
What if that was a TT system, then there would be no rcd protection on the main tails supplying the new consumer board and the the tails and it could be an excessive length from the mains head.
Is this property on a looped supply as there are two cables entering the main fuse block?
Very informative, thanks for posting. . Am I right in thinking that anyone could just take out a single screw on the connector in the meter cupboard and be exposed to the tails where they are joined?
I guess so, much like a light switch or a socket, anyone can undo two screws and access live parts.
@@efixx yes, that's true but are people much better protected downstream of the Consumer Unit? I am just a curious layman but I was expecting something like Fort Knox around those connections lol
The issue here is someone is willingly opening that enclosure with a tool. If they aren't competent then they shouldn't be attempting to access that enclosure. They are making that decision...
Yeah just like anyone can take a screw driver to any electrical accessory. Or put their finger inside the lamp holder on a pendant that has no lamp in and have access to live parts without the use of a tool.
Isn't the main reason for using a seperate CU that the installer doesn't have to take responsibility for the condition of the existing CU? For a 32A chargepoint, wouldn't it be better to use a 40A breaker to avoid any nuisance trips - a 32A breaker at full load for hours on end doesn't seem like a great idea for long-term reliability.
Hello. The chaps didn't mention in the video what the Zappi max current draw was set at, it may be limited at the charge point to lower than 32. Also - wouldn't the overcurrent have to be between 3 - 5 times the MCB rating?
@@johnhoward2104 cheers I was getting mixed between the two. Back to 7671...
As the charge unit is max 7kw this a draw of 30.43 amps Sona 32 amp mcb is fine
Manufacturer instructions say B32 MCB for overload protection.
I believe J1772 calls for 30A max?
Have to be careful if a surge protective device is attached to ring mains or radials that have new electronic devices as they have their own protective device built into the power units and can actually cause an issue
Excellent video, thank you. Keep up the good work. Do you have any videos on solar panels and storage power units?
thanks 🙏 We have this one on inverters, which links to one on battery storage - kzhead.info/sun/ZcWioq5qmpVvqYE/bejne.html
Ýea but you said nothing. More In meter box but what about e 3 connector blocks you have contradicted your selves
This may be a daft question, but do you need to have it wired through your consumer board? I live in flats and it wouldn't be possible to wire it all up. We do however have our meter near where the EV charger would be installed. Why can't we just have a switch in the cabinet and not have it run into our flat?
Did I get it wrong or there is no RCD protection all the way down from the mains panel to the charger unit? What does protect against residual current throughout all that length?
Personally, I prefer the idea of an external CU, and definitely where you have an external meter cupboard unless there are some very specific circumstance. It means that the household and EV side of things can be kept almost wholly separate. It also minimises power loss in the cabling, avoids disturbing existing decoration and so on. In my case, it's definitely the route I would take as the back of my detached garage faces the house wall with the meter cupboard. Also, I can use it to rectify something I hate, which is that the existing SWA that feeds the garage is connected into the back of the ground floor ring circuit. It's 4mm, so at a stretch if might be enough for an EV charger with some sort of load control, but I think I will go for 5 way 6mm SWA which would allow for any future three-phase upgrade (and, in principle, when wired for single phase the two wires could be paralleled for each of the line and neutrals which I estimate would save around 60 watts on a 7.2 kW load). I just forsee me doing a lot of digging...
should they have used a Crabtree surge protection as it would have been tested to work with the consumer unit?
Hi guys another great video, may I ask what was the distance from the cut out to the new cu installed.
It consumer unit is almost directly behind the meter box -.so 1.5m tails.
Does the zappi have DC rccd protection
I was amazed with the 25mm2 tails and the 100A main fuse! Here in Malta we basically use the UK system with some modifications (I had done a course for a Licence A Electrician and we referred to the IEE book quite a lot). The power company here gives consumers a 40A main fuse and if your load blows that, you are sort of forced to apply for a 3-phase home installation. I am considering an EV and this video opened my views quite a lot. Tails from our electricity meters are 6mm and we usually run a 4mm for the cooker outlet while the remaining power would be on 2.5mm, usually divided to separate 32A MCBs. Lighting is usually installed on 16A MCBs although with more modern lighting units such as LEDs etc, 6A MCBs ae becoming the norm.
Interesting system you use in Malta. For EV you will probably need some sort of load shedding / sharing - a few of the new EV chargers support this so you don’t blow the incoming supply fuse.
So your power to sockets on a 32A breaker I take it are ring circuits?
I have an external 3pin socket at the front of my house. Can I leave the cable to my fuse box in place and just swap the external socket box with a 7KW EV charger box? 🤞🏻
So how to you go on when you don’t have an old style stopcock with visible bonding ? , I have a surestop switch under the sink in the Cuboard with no visible bonding as the pipes run behind the built in cuboard , council told me the old stopcock would have been cut out when the surestop switch was put in .
Do they charge you for electricity at commercial rate having an EV charger or is it residential rate?
No isolation switch, how was the system made safe for the Addition of new consumer unit?
When the EV charging station has its own RCD built in, is it connected to the main earth rail in your consumer box, or does it need another means to connect to earth (eg a separate earth pin)? Solar power systems can feed DC in your system as well, does the inverter have its own RCD protection like the charging station?
It depends on how the manufacturer makes the charger. The Zappi 2 can be connected to the earth bar but others require an earth rod.
More reason,s not to get a e car at this time,Cannot see why we would when not enough charging points country wide and won,t be for a long long time yet.
Good video. If the current consumer unit was new and the correct mcb could be sourced and inserted into a non rcd protected spare way, could that consumer unit be used instead of installing an additional one ?
Yes that is one option - but a struggle if you want to add surge protection.
Do you have to use A rated breaker with chargers?
Sorry if this is a dumb question but can you confirm why this isn't a looped supply please, it looks like it from the two cables going into the service head.
Hi chaps. Love your videos. I am doing the ev charging course next month and was wondering what you think of this option. I would like to install a hi-integrity split load board (eg Hager VML914CUSPD) with type A RCDs and a 40A MCB in one of the non-RCD protected module. I then plan to run a 10mm SWA glanded into the metal CU. I understand I will then need to add a length of suitably sized CPC from the gland on the EV charging point (which is made of plastic) to the earth terminal in the EV charging point. Am I right in thinking that I will not need to add a length of CPC to the gland on the metal consumer unit, as there is a very good fault path through the SWA armourings, through the body of the metal CU and onto the MET built into the CU? It seems to me that doing so would be unnecessary and would add a parallel CPC path of approx 30mm. Thanks and regards. Andrew
I forgot to add, the 10mm SWA I plan to install is 2 core. Thanks again. Andrew
I love gary. What a man!!!
So if relying on the rcd in the charger doesn't that mean the cable is not protected from board to charger??
Hi guys iv just had a ev installed and iv noticed that the electrician has only used t&e 2.5mm cable to supply power to the charger its around the wall in trunking this cable to seems to small for my 7kw charger can you advise Thanks mark
Hi help me please . What if we have RCBO fuseboard do i need used RCBO for ev charge or MCB ONLY since we have rcd in charge.
No mention of the PME/TN-C-S issue with an EV charger, I take it the Zappi has built in PEN fault detection?
It has built-in PEN fault technology,so no earth rod needed
It sure does, no earth rod required. 👍
I believe it’s has applied for a patent and been tested in a university lab not sure it has gone through other standard testing labs. Looks interesting technology though no real technical information on how this PEN technology is constructed and operates. Not if it would work even more effectively if earth fault path impedance was further lowered by adding an earth rod even though it does not need it.
Why is everyone obsessed with a pme supply and ev's, really it's the networks problem not the installer. Plus, ask yourself what is the chance of the network dropping the neutral when the car is on charge and someone touching the car, it's got to be near impossible. The networks should be worried not the installer or car owner.
@@acelectricalsecurity The DNO absolves itself of responsibility by stating that PME earths can't be exported outside the equipotential zone. I've read recently that loss of neutral is quite common and is often caused by cable thieves.
Great video. Just a question, is the SPD in lieu of the DC protection RDC DD & PEN fault device? As there is RCD protection in the charger it would be interesting to see what type.
No the EV charger has all of the RCD and PEN protection built in. See this video 👉 kzhead.info/sun/qLmlqaWFpHmiaJE/bejne.html
Be careful there is no BS number for the RCD onboard as yet so requires a double pole RCD
With the RCD being built-in to the charger, how does the owner do a test on it, that is operate a manual test button, and do you carry out an RCD test as you would a regular stand alone RCD.
Good question. Taking the front off that charger every three months would be a pain. ;-) Or does this just illustrate that three-monthly testing of RCD's is not really required?
Hi is it 6mm or 10mm square cable?
I would stick a nice 10mm T/E or even 16mm on either a 50A or 63A....future proof for higher KW EV
Can’t put a 10mm on a 50a
Good video , it didn’t touch on the subject of rcd for tails.
Latest issue is that the onboard type A RCD within the charger may be non compliant meaning an RCD has to be fitted upstream. How will that work with your DC confusion?
Is it possible to install when the property has only 63amp instead of 100amp
Could you not just change the AC breaker for an A one and add it on that side?
The DC RCD in the evse will prevent blinding on upstream RCD so that shouldn't be a concern when deciding which side of consumer unit to use. Although it is still a good idea not to touch existing wiring if you can help it.
You cant fit A type RCD down stream of an AC RCD, thats what we have been advised
@@cliveross1800 you cant do that! a type A does not trip on DC it is just more immune to "blinding"! if it is fed from an AC module there is a risk the AC RCD can become blind! Note: a lot of AC RCDs are quite happy with 6mA of DC and will still trip as specified with an AC fault but not all can.
Excellent.
Thanks
I see that the service head is on a looped supply, does this mean the supply should be unlooped by the DNO before the EV point can be comissioned?
I clocked that as well... no mention of it in the vid was there 🤔
So how do you find a really good sparky who thinks, diagnoses, and communicates clearly with me with my 'A' level physics and, before regs changed, did a fair amount of household wiring following the books to the letter? I haven't found one who takes any time, cleans drill dust out of the back boxes, or listens to what I say. Contrast the excellent plasterers, plumbers, general builders I've used in south east London. With side, loft, and tear extensions, we have lots of lighting, power, shower, cooker circuits and want to plan for EV.
See if they are on Instagram and see the quality of work that they post. We follow some inspirational electricians.
Well you havnt used me Steven, but I don’t work in east London so your search continues
The SPD doesn't look like a Crabtree SPD. I've queried this with Wylex where I've found other sparks using non Wylex SPDs in their consumer units. Their response was...'if the product installed within the consumer unit is a non Wylex product then the installer becomes the guarantor of the whole assembly'. Since Crabtree are part of the Electrium Group I'd expect their response to be the same. Like the MCB example u used in the video, the same applies to SPDs as it comes down to type testing.
You really want to hear it from the consumer unit manufacturer though? In my experience they want nothing to do with other manufacturer's gear. Don't shoot the messenger mate, just saying what Wylex technical said when I queried it.
Yeah I agree mate. It's a tricky one. I'd always just go with the CU manufacturer's SPD for my own peace of mind (knowing product testing should have been completed as an assembly) and if the worst were to happen, to avoid any finger pointing between installer and manufacturer(s). Cost will likely come into it but it is what it is I suppose.
Interesting point for discussion. Thanks for bringing it up. 👍
Quite agree with your comment @Daniells1982 What code would you give for the mixing of manufacturer on the next EICR. If it was a MCB with no signs of damage guidance suggests code 3, would it be the same for the SPD. The CPS scheme's should really be sorting this out to give guidance before thousands are installed, maybe efixx could grasp the batton.
@@markholmes4143 I'd probably say that's a fair assessment mate. Mixing manufacturers just isn't worth the hassle in my opinion. U may end up paying more but if you stick with one manufacturer you can't go far wrong and at least if there was an issue down the line that's no fault of the installer I'd hope there is some support from the manufacturer if you've used their 'system'. I think guys just need to be aware that mixing manufacturers gear in a CU, including in line meters, bell transformers etc you're taking some responsibility away from the manufacturer and taking it on as the installer, becoming the 'guarantor ' was the term they used.
The EBO is only 3nk so the flow is 22ii if this on a TTD board the ohssies will phase the hept barriers everytime.
The tails going from my meter to the consumer unit are not 25mm but 16mm. I remember the meter installing telling me that. Does that mean I'd have to replace the 16mm if I wanted to one day get an EV charger installed ?
Yes unless the demand from the rest of your house is very low and /or the service fuse is just 60Amps and you fit a charger which measures the power use at the supply intake - e.g the Zappi by Myenergi
@@efixx Thanks.
How about fitting a kWh meter in the CU for the charge point, so the consumer can split out how much energy they're using for the EV? I visited an egg production unit years ago with inverter drives for the ventilation fans, the standard Hager RCD would trip out when you tried to run more than one fan. I suggested they fit an RCD designed to operate with Inverters, at the type it was a Schneider Si type.
The smart chargers already tell you what energy is being produced. Zappi monitors the EV, house, solar and back up batteries and can divert the green energy directly to the car. Really good set up 😎
I see all the time in my industry, people take feeds to Solar PV inverters from AC type RCD's. If that RCD has a lot of electrical equipment already operating on the circuits it protects, the chances of DC saturation are already very high, meaning that RCD could fail under fault conditions. Fronius (an Austrian inverter manufacturer) issued a statement some years ago stating their inverters should be installed on an A type RCD, but in reality most often, the manufacturers guide doesn't specify an RCD type for electrical equipment. Depending on the installation, the circuit *most often, doesn't need RCD protection, according to the wiring regulations. My personal preference is to split the tails into a Henley block and put the PV on its own two way board, with either a 100A main switch or an appropriately rated RCD that is also of the correct type. Another issue I see quite often, two way boards installed with a 63A 30mA RCD, if the cutout fuse is 100A why would someone install a 63A RCD?
You have to remember for donkeys years now, we have only really used one type of RCD for everything, the ac type, then all of a sudden all these other types come to market, and I am very sceptical as to who is driving the industry manufacturers or the Muppets, better known as the IET. And to be honest, the push is to put an RCD on nearly every circuit, and can be quite difficult to get around in some instances. Also we are trusting a mechanical device, and there's about a 10% failure rate, which is a lot, then they never get tested, no one pushes the test button, so again they can stick. As for the inverter manufacturer putting out that warning, manufacturers will do anything to cover their bum, just like board manufacturers that say to check their terminations, why, if they are at the correct torque when they leave the factory why should I check them. I do, but shouldn't have to.
A few years ago when I had solar PV installed at my place, the installer followed your preference, with a new dedicated 40A RCD and avoided the older consumer unit altogether, with a pair of new cables into the existing meter box on the other side of the wall - about 1/2 metre away max.
Hi there! Is it possible I might need a new commercial unit installed before an EV home charge point installation could be carried out? Thank you!
New series looking at commercial / workplace charging coming soon.
That hagar csu , if I'm not mistaken is a type A not an AC ? It has 2 symbols on it ?
It’s a type AC - Google the part number shown on the RCD.
@@efixx ok thanks. Looking at the one i just installed, it has the sine wave symbol ( in the square box) & also a half wave sine next to it like the one you showed so assumed it was a type A. My installation tested all perfectly weĺl but the customers current split board will not trip the rcd upon testing, i was wondering if my seperate csu i installed for the EV ( like the 1 in your video) would effect it ? They are only joined by a mains 100A block ( like your vid)
Surprised to see no bushing on the cable entries of the metering enclosure. Other than that seems ok(ish)
Inside work very tidy, outside Meter box is so untidy, no clips and no labels on any of the cables.
Great text book job
Thanks