Hyundai Ioniq 28 kWh degradation test after 68k km and 5 years
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Battery chemistry is complicated and complex like marriage with ups and downs 😂
All about the chemistry and temperature ❤😅
And just like marriage, you never really know exactly how much life you're going to get out of it!... haha
My 2016 Ioniq 28kwh, with 91k miles on the clock (146k km) still gives me 145 miles, 233km, in lowish temperature. It's not summer yet in Blighty. I drive gently, but in very hilly Sheffield. I'm still loving it.
Same, in the summer I achieved 272km without counting for the under reporting of the car
I have the same car with 117k miles. Are you saying you can drive 145 miles or it's showing a range of 145? Mine will show 145 after charging to 100%, but I would be down to two red bars around 110 miles.
@@maurice7413 in fairness, probably between the two. I would never attempt 147,but I reckon I could get 130. But I never push my luck.
What day is Sheffield's summer this year?
@@londonwestman1 oh, that was last year. There isn't one planned for this year. A flood, maybe, like July 2007.
28 kWh Ioniq insta click :D!
Even if I don't own an Ioniq anymore, I can't help, I just have to watch any video about it. Thanks Björn!
Explanation is simple: Degradation in terms of kWh the battery can deliver is still within margin of error after 5 years/65kkm, so basically non existent. However, you start seeing aging effects as you hit the Battery harder, both in the form of higher DC charging loss as well as more heat loss while driving and also somewhat increased tendency of charging induced battery overheating ("rapid gate") as well. My own car was at this point after about two years/100kkm and I measured an average of ~2kWh degradation after 5 years/250tkm, when I sold the car.
I guess Pål is taking so good care of his Ioniq that the car is in so good mode and so happy that the car refuses to degrade ? Happey car gives no degade ?
My Ioniq 28kwh, 2019, 120k km, i measured 25.1kWh, a year and 25kkm earlier i measured 25.6kWh. Similar conditions(your test parameters. 90km/h)
How did you measure it? By fully offloading and charging (see how much kWh you charged minus the charge loss)? How much KM can you drive the Ioniq?
@@Owsryudie average consumtion*kilometers driven then divided with consumed battery (%) (Bjorns method)
The amount of energy you can get out of the battery depends on how much current you are loading the battery with. The higher the current, the less energy you get from the battery. So driving more aggressively and using maximum acceleration reduces the range. As the battery gets older and its internal resistance increases, the more smoothly you need to drive if you want to use the maximum energy from the battery.
This is a wonderful explanation, thanks!
But in Sunday driving, the consumption was very low and I got less kWh than Pål who drove faster.
@@bjornnyland Pål may have been going faster, so his overall consumption was higher, but he was probably driving more smoothly with less aggressive starts. Less peak current, less stress on the battery, more energy gained from battery.
May be Pal did use less A/C or Heating as Bjorn. I have very low consumption when driving my Tesla Model 3 AWD without Heating or Cooling too. As low as 110Wh/km
@@awmmuc Nice, do you prefer TM3 AWD or Hyundai Ioniq 2016-2022?
It's quite simple Pål obviously drives the IONIQ Classic mainly in sailing mode with recuperation at 0. This is also my driving style and achieves excellent consumption values. Recuperation to high values only makes sense in city traffic. Greetings from Germany🙋🏼
Great car the classic ioniq! I recently bought a Peugeot e-2008 2021 with 72000 km on the odometer, as a second/commuter car. Car scanner reports SOH as 87%, but available energy when charged to 100% is 36,68 kWh. That would indicate a degradation of 18,5% 😮 When using your data on battery capacity from range tests with the stellantis cars. You would be welcome to do a degradation test on it if you come to the east coast of Sweden 😊
My 2019 measured 25,6 kw/h at 6.000 km. Last week i did a test again, 24,5 kw/h. ODO is at 138.000 km.
I would as well suspect influence from a temp sensitive internal resistance
This weekend I had a roadtrip with classic Ioniq, I had bailed out at 12%, almost exactly as interim Pål's measurement, so I had done 198km with ~115Wh/km while he did 173 with 135Wh/km consumption. By comparing at that point and final results, it would look like mine had ~1kWh more degradation (haven't actually gone that deep in a long time to be sure), but still enough for me for 99% of cases. Mine is at ~98kkm now and it's early 2018, so in essence 2017 model
I have suspected a long time that the classic Ioniq measures the kWh/100km incorrectly. I suspect the measurement is done on the AC-side of the motor instead of on the DC-side. So regen is measured too high, and usage too low. If TB drives a stretch that is completely flat he will have a lower value than someone driving a hilly place. The reason I have this suspicion is that I have measured Ioniq classic to have up to 70% effective regeneration which is way way too good.
It’s a really nice - and classic - looking car imo 👍 Beautifully kept and modified by Pål 👏
Yep, the consumption of the 28kw/h Ionic makes every wardrobe on wheels like E-Tron e.t.c jealous. 10kw/h /100 km (season with less A/C) in daily commute is no big challenge for him.
lmao wardrobe on wheels, perfectly sums up e-tron :D Good one :D
It’s because you balanced the cells by going deep to 100% twice. The battery SOH improves for a while. This used to happen with my BMW i3s when I had it.
The BMS attempts to balance the cell voltages continuously over the entire range of battery state of charge. I don't think the depth of discharge has any effect on cell balancing.
@@pavelblaha5243 Even the manufacturers give conflicting advice, BMW said to charge on AC to 100% once a month to balance the cells. My new Smart #1 Brabus says on the charging screen to charge to at least 90% the protect the battery but in the owners manual it says to charge to 80% to extend battery life. 🤣
@@pavelblaha5243 with most EV using series instead of parallel circuit to reach high voltage, most balancing occurs when reaching 100% with balancing circuit and assuming the balancing circuit are attached to each cell and not in a groups. CMIIW
@@garrycroft4215 A full charge to 100 percent for cell balancing needs to be done for cells with LFP chemistry, because only before full charge the voltage starts to increase and the BMS detects from this, that the cell is charged. With NMC cells, the state of charge is easier to detect because, unlike LFP, the voltage changes throughout the charge range, so the BMS has the ability to balance the cells continuously, regardless of the actual state of charge.
@@pavelblaha5243 thank you, I’m on my third car with NMC batteries and still learning best practices.
at 57tkm I drove my Ioniq 28 from 100% down to 1% (arriving at my home charger), driving along partly really slow Landstraße and through several villages at 65 km/h average, and got 25.1 kWh aswell
Pål is the real Ioniq Ninja!
You're gonna make me get one as a hobby car Björn! :') God this car is good, one of my few regrets after getting rid of it. So like I said, You're gonna make me get it again. :D
These hold up great considering there is no way to limit the charge SoC. 100% every time! Doesn’t seem to make a difference.
I think your battery temperature raising it from 22 to 35 shows you generated more resistive heat loss than the test at 90km/hr last run.
From the experience of kia soul, I can say for sure that you should not rely on the on-board computer for electricity consumption. It is influenced by temperature, speed and driving style (not by absolute values, but relative ones). I always measure by charging in similar conditions, so it's much more accurate. At the same time, the results are also very different when charging 50 kW, 6.4 kW and 3.5 kW.
I don't see that is a reliable way. No way to accurately gauge the charging loss at different speed and temperatures.
@@orlovsskibet I probably did not say it quite clearly: the most accurate measurement option is to charge with the same power under the same temperature conditions.
Classic = best EV.
Lower chargin current, more energy in battery (less in heat). Lower discharge current, more energy comes out of battery (less goes to heat). LiFePO4 are less proneto this, Sodium batteryes are practucally imune to these differences. So chemistry also plays some role in this. To exactly measure battery capacity, it should be measured with charge/discharge tester using some standard parameters. A few months ago I notiticed that "auto clubs" offer standardised measurement of EV batteryes. Don't know what method and equipment they are using. But they produce some kind of certificate.
A good outcome. Batteries are so fickle and a great lesson in confusion. Be interesting to know what the history of charging has been in the past. A mix of charging situations, or mostly DC public charging, or AC charging at home? At any rate, seems like low degradation.
Maybe degradation tests need to be done at 90km/h from now on?
He's probably cruising more than you do. If you are accelerating and breaking more often, you will consume more and regenerate more, but the efficacy of regeneration is less than 100%. Probably it all comes down to the way the car measure and then calculates the consumption. And also when the discharge current is high, the usable energy gets lowered.
Hei, Bjørn Dette er helt logisk. Varme er energi.. Temperaturøkning i batteriet krever energi. Der ligger forskjellen. For å varme oop 100 liter vann 10 grader kreves 1.2 kwt. Ioniq batteriet masse tilsvarer noe lignende. Effekten til å varme opp batteriet er økt indre motstand farten har forårsaket.
But the first test was at 99 Wh/km.
@@bjornnyland Couldn't it be that your 64km/h (99Wh/km) test the battery wasn't warm enough. What was the outside temperature on that run?
Bjorn, do you find that the same battery has higher capacity in summer and lower capacity in winter?
But the first test at 99 Wh/km was in summer, 20°C.
Understanding what's going on with the main battery pack does require some understanding about battery chemistry and how it behaves under various driving conditions. For example, batteries are temperature sensitive too low or too high is deprimental to its performance and life expectancy. Thus, the batteries will best perform within a well defined temperature range. Then comes balancing of the battery pack and so on and so on. Thus driving around at high speeds while stressing the battery pack is in my opinion suboptimal and highly unrealistic for most scenarios.
Bjørn I need help! I drove my Hyundai Ioniq 2016-2020 EV until it displayed no KM's (around 5km left and 3% battery). I slow (lowest setting with wall connector) charged it back up to 100%. It took 30.28 kWh out of the charger and it displays 254 KM's. What is my actual battery percentage after degradation and charge loss?
53 / 5 000 Wyniki tłumaczenia Tłumaczenie different route, different temperatures, different foot on the gas.
Why is the consumption so extremely high? 19.2Kwh/100km is very high for the ioniq. Heavy right foot or is it the modifications made to the car (big rims)? Even in winter i've never seen consumption this high (usually 17-18Kwh/100km with heater on and 12-13Kwh/100km in summer with airco on). But back ontopic: I've measured battery degredation on my ioniq 28Kwh with 71k km on the odometer as well and it varies, sometimes i conclude it still has 28Kwh but sometimes i calculate its has around 25.5~26Kwh left. I think its down to heat and efficiency losses.
Yeah my thoughts also. I get 145wh/km when doing 110 in optimal conditions like this. This is also the reference consumption that A better routeplanner uses for this car.
Don't forget losses due to internal resistance. Since they are proportional to current squared, they are much higher if you pull more power, i.e. hammer it. See Peukert's law, or rate-capacity effect.
But in test 1, I had only 99 Wh/km...
What is 0.985 or 0.975 number at 9:13 ?
The percentage consumed (100% to 2% and 100% to 3,5%) added with 0,5 and 1,0 as mentioned in the video.
The explanation is that the consumption measure in the car is not calibrated and not very accurate. It needs to measure current (and voltage) very precise and equally sample it fast for accurate integration (to get the energy or Wh). The true voltage depends on the voltage of each module in series. The individual module or cell does have A/D converters of low bit rating. That said the difference you and Pål measure is only ~4% - that can be as simple as how each of you handle the throttle. You yourself explains that yo-yo driving creates heat. As you create heat (temp up in the battery) and Pål loses hear (temp down) - you do relative more yo-yo than Pål and loses more energy to heat (which is in the battery) and not measured.
For me seems to be something wrong with this Ioniq, mine has 163.000km and I calculate a remaining battery capacity about 27kWh, today from a full charge to 5% I’ve done 204km, at 20 degrees and make a trip on main roads and highway, max speed 100km/h. My consumption has been 116 wh/km
How did you measure it?
@@bjornnylandFollowing some of your advices, from 100% and driving to almost 0%, using EVnotify and looking to kWh discharged, the substract the kWh charged via regeneration to obtain the net energy discharged. Dou you think that maybe I made some mistake??
Maybe all the battery cycling you did has balanced the pack better than it was.
sorry, previously it was in Polish
Maybe you needed to drive to even lower SOC like the owner did? If you underestimated the last 5%
I did go quite deep. And in test 1 at 99 Wh/km, I even drove it all the way to 0 % 0 km.
Raising a 200kg battery pack 10 degrees takes about 2kWh plus losses due to cooling trough wind. So this result is to be expected.
But what about test 1?
@@bjornnyland within margin of error I should say, result is no degradation since last test.
inna trasa, inne temperatury, inna noga na "gazie". Please don't worry about the little things, what is important is your wife and children, especially the new family member 😀
❤❤❤
This Car dont like you :D
1st one to comment almost
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