HOW TO GUIDE to Reloading Ammo for PRS | FULL SERIES
Watch faster at / teamarea419
There is a lot of reloading content online. Some are more basic, and some are DEEPLY advanced. This is our attempt at a balance. There is obviously more that could be discussed and eventually will be, but we think this information will outline a solid foundation of process for any precision rifle reloader.
Chapters:
00:00 Intro
03:09 Brass Prep Part 1
07:11 Brass Prep Part 2 (Sizing)
16:40 Priming
18:40 Charging, Finding Lands, and Seating
27:27 Match Prep & Final Thoughts
NOTE: Before reloading, we also suggest you read and consult a complete reloading manual from a reloading component manufacture. This will reinforce all steps here, as well as help you to find safe load parameters based on your cartridge, projectile, and powder choices.
Website: area419.com
Facebook: facebook.com/area419
KZhead: / @area419
Good stuff for sure. One thing I do differently is - after I've loaded the powder in a case, I remove the funnel, and then place a projectile into the case mouth upside down. Then I never miss an empty case. The first 10 or 15 rounds are usually not a problem with forgetfulness. but by the end of a 50-case process, I can get into day-dreaming or get distracted.
I personally just go ahead and seat the projectile after charging. But that's me.
But then again I am sitting at a small bench with all of my reloading supplies and press in a small spot.
Using an auto trickler, I have enough time to seat while the next charge pours.
This is a service to the precision rifle community. Describing your personal reloading process to us from the armorers workshop that you’ve created is awesome. Thank you Area 419!!!
Excellent. I haven't read all of the comments, but the viewer should take note that factory chambers are often throated extremely long. In some cases, touching the lands may result in an over mag length round. In other cases you may not reach the lands at all.
Just set up my Zero press. I have been reloading for years with an RCBS rock chucker. I cannot believe the repeatability of the Zero press, it's amazing and in a class like no other. Everything I have been using for years seems like child's play next to this thing. Area 419 keep inventing and I will keep buying. Your products are amazing
I recently got a Zero and had been using an RCBS Rebel for a long time. The Zero is seriously an amazing precision machine. I swear it’s like a work of art that also pumps out match grade ammo.
Great informational video! Love your reloading products!
My order of operations is, Dry tumble, resize and trim, dry tumble to remove case lube, prime, charge, seat.
Absolutely great video series that will help a ton of reloaders! Thank you for making such quality products. 👍🏼
Thank you, Ray!
Great video , thanks for sharing your process with your high end tools . I have been loading for 50 years. Tools have come a long way since I started. I can only put some of these on my wish list after I win the lottery lol
Excellent video, good work guys! Really easy to follow, relevant and not at all condescending. For my 6BR match ammo, I personally: - Deprime cases before dry tumbling with a hand tool - Use imperial sizing wax for full length sizing in the Zero press, have had some issues with spray on lube - Use an expander mandrel to reset neck tension - Use an arbor press with force pack for seating to get a better feel of seating anomalies - Wipe down everything afterwards
Thank you Craig. Made me rethink wet tumbling as my ocd won’t let cases stay dirty more than a day.lol. I hand polish all mine with brasso but only have Lyman sonic for insides. Time doesn’t matter to me all that does is the best cartridge I can produce period. Love my hellfire on dd5v3..keeps me on target for follow ups and opens my sinuses all at same time..😉matt in ky
I've cleaned brass both ways. The steel pins are a pain especially when 2 get lodged in the flash hole but corn cob media does the same thing. Then I started cleaning before decapping and that was fine both ways. I've never seen or experienced what you're talking about at the case mouth with wet tumbling but I've never let it run more than 3 hours. Problem with the cases is after you size them, you have to clean again to get the lube off. For awhile I'd just lay the cases out and spray with carb or brake cleaner which works to get the lube off after sizing but just costs more money. Most of the time I clean the neck with 0000 stainless steel before sizing but that doesn't work as well as tumbling a few hours. What I do like about wet tumbling is it cleans the inside of the brass and neck where media doesn't seem to I know your video is regarding competition shooting but in my experience, with many of my hunting rifles, both factory and custom, I don't need to FL size. I will chamber every fired case and nearly 100% of the time, they go in just as easy as they did before firing. Unfortunately, many people will FL size cases like this and are bumping the shoulder back 0.002 even more when it's not even needed - thus, all of those cases only get neck sized with a bushing. I've been testing my sizing process using neck sizing only with a bushing and no expander of any type, and also doing that with a slightly tighter bushing followed by using a turning mandrel inside the neck. So far I've noticed no difference in handload neck tension consistency. This is with once fired brass or more than one firing. In the event a fired case is on the stiff side when chambering, I will FL size and I keep those separate. Again, this is only for my hunting rifles. I do have a PRS rifle in 6.5PRC but so far haven't needed to FL size any fired cases in it and the Lapua brass has been fine neck sizing only up to 2 firings each. At this point, for me, only time I have any use for all the turning mandrels I recently bought is on new brass. I'll neck size everything with a bushing, no expander, then use the turning mandrel
Great video. Thanks
I like to bulk towel wipe and blow off the dust with compressed air after initial tumbling. I started this after a die developed grooves in the body that may have been attributed to contamination in the media. This also gives me the opportunity to clear any media out of the primer pocket. I will also tumble/wipe/blow again after sizing to clean off the lube residue. Wearing gloves when handling the brass and finished cartridges is also helpful especially if it is intended for longer term storage. Another step, maybe I missed it but... I will clean the primer pocket as part of the brass prep process.
Hej! Good video and nice products. Im on the budget side with the press. And have upgrade others. I woild like to have a progressive and or a multi tool press like the Zero. Less time you touch the brass = more range time 😊 One thing that I do aftrer priming. I aet the primed case with primer faced up. Then I know all are primed. Then the charge is ready I Flip one case, funnel it, pour powder, remove funnel and plant the bullet. And reapet. This way I know that every case is ready for seating.
Same things I’ve found also on brass markings…on outside of cases it smears in my dies. Have 2 hornady 6.5prc with 22 magnum charges through em and still look great. Pockets of course loose but they both touch every time fired. Wish I could come visit and meet you guys someday brother. Y’all are and inspiration to a blue collar man with big dreams.
I used to have concentricity issues. I started seating my projectile 1/4 of the way, pull it out and spin it a 1/4 turn, pull it out and spin it another 1/4 turn, pull it out 1 more time and sent it home with a full stroke of the press handle. Sold my concentricity machine.
What about cleaning the primer pockets ?
Great video guys!
Thanks so much!
Nice video! I hope beginners don't feel pressured to spend $5K on their first reloading setup to recreate the awesome setup Area419 has here.
We hope they don’t either! That’s why we did a video a few months ago of the basic needed equipment and were sure to include/note more budget friendly options
No worries , no pressure lol 😆
Good video
Love that stack of alpha in background also…my choice also and love there nice box you get. Wish they’d do 6.5prc as I load/shoot slot of with some amazing performance and wow moments when hyper fast bullets impact targets that react to them.
I want to do this. But geez, the time and patience needed is crazy..
Good lord some peepells comments are too caustic. This was a well done video,thanks guys.
Hi Craig, how's it going? 1st off I want to thank Jon for creating Area419. The staff is super friendly and knowledgeable. I love using your quality made tools and products, I have a few 😂. I refer friends and club members to your web site. As far as another tip for reloading. I like to decap and clean the primer pockets, get rid of the carbon before I tumble the brass. This eliminates that crunchy feeling when priming on the CPS. This also allows the primer to be fully seated against the flash hole. Just another step for PRS prep lol.. Using the Zero press along with the CPS are my 2 favorite steps when reloading. Thank you for making our hobby more enjoyable 😊 Have a great one... Nick
It’s a step that a lot of people like to add, and nothing wrong with it! Just not something we have seen the benefit in and don’t dedicate the time to.
Great video. Keep up the good work. I am wondering if y'all would make a smaller portable 4 station turret press with 1 and 1/4" holes, so that the Hornady LNL quick change die bushings could be implemented?.
This isn’t something on our product development roadmap
Regarding the cleaning - I have gotten to where I only wet tumble with some dish soap and a dash of citric acid. No pins. I can not tell a single difference in cleanliness, yet I don't have to deal with getting the pins out of the cases. And to help me with forgetting to turn it off, I use one of the outlet timers I use for the Christmas lights. 15-30 minutes (depending if it was shot with a silencer or not) with some hot water, a squirt of dish soap, and a 9mm case of citric acid and they're sparkly clean. Then I just rinse them off with the hose and toss them in the air dryer. I just got to where I was scared of the lead dust in the dry tumbling. With the water, I pour it out through some charcoal to hopefully filter out some of the lead and I am not worried about breathing it in. Just my method.
Hey Craig & Area 419. GREAT video. Question: do you bother cleaning brand new (Peterson) brass? Same question with annealing. My Peterson brass came clean, in cases, and annealed. Thanks!
On new brass, you may run it through a trim and size, but that’s all I’d do with it before getting into prime/charge/seat
Any chance yall can go into how neck tension plays into the reloading process? And what's better mandrel vs neck bushing?
Check out this video we did not too long ago! kzhead.info/sun/gqdwYr6gp4Wnpq8/bejne.html Hopefully it can answer a couple things!
After sizing I like to to give the brass another quick tumble to get the lube off in case the spray on line I use could contaminate the powder. Also I typically hit the necks with graphite prior to bullet seating but I don’t know if that does anything yet as I haven’t tested with or without.
Nothing wrong with adding these steps!
First of all what an excellent video. Thankyou for this wonderful resource. I was just curious. With all of that one shot lube you used during the sizing process. What stops your powder from sticking to the residual lube on the inside of the neck? and is it a problem if you do have powder stuck to the inside of the neck? I think im selling my wet tumbler... general consensus is dry is better, even though i have grown to love my shiny brass haha.
Using stick powders it has never been a problem. If 1-2 kernels decide to stick they are very easily knocked down into the case when the bullet enters during seating. Glad you enjoyed!
Nice video. I liked how you tried to keep things simplified. I still wet tumble my brass, but found that I could reduce my time way down (15 minutes) and not have the brass issue.
Keeping that time down is huge. Like we note, it’s not that you can’t do it successfully, it’s just not something we do as it adds a step that we’ve screwed up in the past
@@area419I've wet tumbled for a decade mainly because of apartment living and the noise and mess from dry tumbling. Are their any effective dry tumblers out there that don't make a mess and aren't very loud? I use a Rebel 17 wet tumbler and love how clean the brass comes out (including the primer pockets), but it's a lot of water to tumble and rinse and the whole process including drying takes longer than I'd like it to so I'd consider moving to dry tumbling if anyone can point me in a good direction for that
@@DanielReyes-hz1qk Most dry tumblers are about the same. They will all be a little dusty (though a lid, plus throwing in a dryer sheet will help that a lot) and the noise is the vibration that comes from the unit. There are some with spring/anti-vibration carriages you'll see, but they all vibrate.
I use chips instead of pins to wet tumble, never had any issues with media getting stuck.
We've used the product from Southern Shine media and it's solid stuff. Much less of a debacle than pins. We still prefer the dry media but this is certainly an option worth consideration.
Anyone know what rifle racks they have in the BG?
Just started reloading for hunting (whitetail). The Zero looks great but do I need it or is this for precision competition guys?
Question on neck tension…..Understand that neck sizing is no longer a preferred practice for many, but do you ever run expander mandrills for consistent neck tension? Guessing no since it was not included in this video? If not, do you just go with the full body resize and seat the bullet at whatever neck tension is given by the full length die? Great video and thanks so much
We did use an expander, there a ground mandrel in our die that does it all on the sizing stroke, and can be had in various sizes that let you control your neck tension
great
I lube the neck before loading the bullet. I use grafite
I have been told that you should brush the necks if you anneal. Do you have thoughts on that?
Awesome video, I think it's great information and thank you. Context: I am non an amazing ELR competitive shot or a bench rest expert. I choose to just seat a buppet to a consistent COL as e.g. per sami because is its repeatable (I know the throat erodes etc but its 308....) Is that a sin?
Nope, not a sin at all. Often times a moderate jump of .040-.060 can be set and not see a lot of change. As long as you're somewhere in there, and are measuring length to the bullet ogive (not the tip) then you'll be just fine.
@@area419 thank you*
I sold med devices for a long time. You guys are like the Arthrex of reloading equipment companies.
Thank you! (We think, unless there is some underlying issue there, to which we say BOOOOO)
Please explain the concept for Crimping. I know there are a few different steps when shooting semi automatic as to bolt action. I shoot only semi automatic at this time.
So when loading precision ammo you don't need to wipe off Hornady One Shot case lube after sizing?
I'm sure someone will disagree and demand you remove it, but we have never removed OneShot. It's made without petroleum, teflon, or other synthetic silicons, so it does not contaminate powder.
What about re-cleaning after the resizing and trimming process to get all that lube off.
One-Shot does not require this step, one of the key reasons we like it
Do you consider cleaning the brass again to get rid of the lube especially on the inside of the case? also when do you consider depriming? Do you deprime after cleaning and cleaning the primer pocket seperately to avoid getting any tumble media stuck in the flash hole?
Using One Shot we do not remove it. Hornady made it so that you don’t have to. We deprime on the sizing stroke. Unless something extraordinary is going on with gunk buildup we don’t bother with cleaning out primer pockets.
@@area419 super thanks for the quick reply. Keep up the great work.
Thank you very much for the question. I was wondering because with primers removed before the dry tumbling i did get a lot of problems with tumbling media stacked in the primer case. So now I prefer to deprime my cases after the cleaning in the resizing stroke. Thank you very much for the helpful video ! PS i love ma Zero Press. Its The best for consistent reloading time after time! Jan Cremers
@@190264jmc if you really want to decap and then tumble (which is a perfectly fine thing to do) just leave the decapping pin in your sizing die when it goes through that step, will knock out any little stuck media and not add more work
did i miss decapping or was that part of the sizing? Did you decap before cleaning? i'm new to this and trying to get a list of equipment.
We are decapping in the sizing operation, not before cleaning. Unless there is something really dirty happening we don't see a major benefit to getting primer pockets spotless.
Craig what benches are those? Husky? Just curious i got one for my setup while I’m in residency. Obviously not as sturdy as my home bench but curious
They’re from BenchDepot.com - Harding style I’m almost certain. Have had them a while, have a bunch on the shop floor and around the building. Quality stuff.
After doing all the resizing of the case, I would anneal it again before handloading.
Do you not worry about cleaning the brass again after resizing? I figured the case lube would introduce unwanted contaminates, especially if you use like a sizing wax.
We don’t worry about it because we use OneShot, which is specifically made to not contaminate powders
Did You use mseries siding die?
When is your M-Series Seating Die coming out?
Do you use a case check gauge?
You’ll see us measure headspace/bump as well as seating depth, but a full case gauge isn’t a part of our process.
Realy nice way. The really nice way costs a really expensive price
I’d like to add something about when you mentioned stainless wet tumbling peens the brass yes it does but the peening goes away after you trim your brass . Second of all if you have pins getting stuck in your necks , you are using the wrong size pins . I been doing this process for 6 years now and not once in the 6 years have I ever had a stuck pin . Run a q-tip into your freshly dry tumbled brass , I assure you that you will find a light powder inside your brass even on the surface . Eventually your media will be contaminated ,the powder will consist of dry media and carbon . That contaminated powder is not good for your annealing machine and your nice expensive sizing dies and yes it will make its way into your sizing dies . Also after running hundreds into your annealing machine some will make its way in there . When you find a good system with stainless tumbling it’s the best way to go . One more thing the carbon build up inside your brass casing on firing number 10 is going to be different than firing number 2 . Stainless tumbling gets rid of all this carbon build up every time .
I know it’s another step but what about de-priming before cleaning and measuring the headspace? I’ve seen some primers cause bad readings because they are being referenced and not the actual base of the case.
Certainly something that could be done. Some people like to decap before cleaning to ensure there is no buildup in the primer pocket. While we don’t consider the extra steps necessary, you’ll not cause harm if you do them with care
@@area419 what is your opinion about FL bushing dies? Pros and cons?
@@rsquared9703 As we are producing dies, we chose not to do bushings. We think FL dies are the only way to go, vs neck sizing, but bushings are not our favorite.
When and how do you de-prime the fired brass?
Cases are decapped in the sizing operation
how do u clean the inside seizing lube out of inside after sizing
Using One-Shot, we don't. It's formulated in a way that it's not required.
Do you tumble off / clean off the One Shot case lube?
Nope, have never felt the need with OneShot based on the way it dries
I tumble mine off. I do not want anything on my brass in the chamber when fired. I want my brass in bolt rifles to grip the chamber. It prohibits the brass from flowing. In a semi auto it may not make as big of a difference. I tumble with walnut after firing, corn cob after sizing and all prep work done before loading. I have used one shot after long time ago evaluating others and have stuck with it. Good video.
Im surprised you didn't do any primer pocket work on your brass, chamfer and clean primer pocket. I think its an important step. So what do you think?
Uniforming isn't something we have messed with in quite some time - starting with premium brass makes that a lot less of a variable. Cleaning the pocket is something you could do, though we have not observed this as being a big deal, so it's not something we regularly spend time on. Certainly inspect to see if there are any major issues, but brushing out each one isn't high on our "things to spend extra time on" list
Thanks for your response,I will consider it. Thank you.
Only had time to watch to 17:15 just before priming, but I didn’t see you use or mention a mandrel. Did I miss something?
Decapping and mandrel for neck size are all part of the sizing stroke with our sizing dies
Are you de-priming as part of the sizing operation?
Yes
How do you feel about ultrasonic cleaners?
They’re perfectly fine. Never fell in love with them but no real reason.
@@area419 would it benefit any if I did both? Ultrasonic and dry tumble
@@brysonredgrave unsure what the benefit would be to doing both. Once the big chunks of grime are gone it’s ready to go
@@area419 just wondering to get that polish look
Are you using a seating die that is not released yet in this video?
It's one that we made and have out in testing. Making sure it's perfect as we refine out process/output on sizing dies to keep up with demand.
Sry, I missed the de-priming part. Notice that the tumbled brass still had the primer, but the Annealed brass had no primer. You use a dedicated "Universal" de-primer after the tumble? r/
One of those clips was just a different piece of brass. In this process we are removing the spent primer during sizing
@@area419 Many thanks. Do you clean the primer pocket then? Reloaded a lot in the 80's and 90's (Gale McMillian got us started) - I recall de-priming/neck sizing only (neck size only for new brass) then tumbling to clean brass (do not remember if we tumbled new brass to clean off the lube - dont think so). Then just checking for media stuck in the pocket. We trimmed and outside turned the necks by hand. Weighed bullets. On board now with FL sizing and annealing. Great video, very informative - thanks again r/
@@rak7101 unless there is something really nasty happening in a primer pocket we typically wont take extra steps to clean them. It's not time that we have found worth taking. If brass ever ends up really nasty it's not unheard of for the process to change a little and maybe start with a decap and then wash (wet soapy water) operation, but that's not terribly common.
My process: Inspect Decap Ultrasonic clean Dry Anneal Lube F/L Resize Dry tumble (to remove sizing lubricant) Measure, trim, chamfer,debur Prime Powder Seat bullet Inspect
same here ; sometimes when I take the cases out of the sonic cleaner I give the neck a quick rub with an old T-Shirt on the outside, gets rids of any loose material not removed.
What Headspace Gauge is that you are using?
It’s one we are making, should be available soon
@@area419 gotcha, I thought maybe I was missing something on the site. I was going to try to take advantage of the Independence Day sale.
So y’all don’t find fire forming a piece of brace to a specific rifle is better than a full length sizing?
For consistency from firing to firing, full-length sizing provides a better result.
Ive never tumbled brass. If they are dirty a simple whipe has been enough for me. I think the neck welding to the bullet really only applies to people who run max or close to max pressure
Any eta on seating dies?
They won't be specifically soon. S-Series sizers will come first.
You guys dont dry tumble before priming to get rid of the lube?
No, we don’t, OneShot doesn’t require it, and an extra dry tumble makes for another opportunity for media to be left in the flash hole or in the case
Got ya, I've never used it. I like 10/1 99% isopropyl alcohol and lanolin mix. They get sticky.
Anyway, love your products. I use em every few days. Keep rockin Area419!
@@Levidanielz we don’t love lanolin-based, as you have to clean the inside of your die fairly often. It builds up and if you’re not on top of maintenance can cause inconsistency
Haven't had a problem in about six thousands handloads since I started using it. 0.002" bump everytime.
I love how expensive and beautiful the primal rights priming tool is. Then everyone has to use a 10¢ rubber band to make it work easier. Somebody needs to make a nicer fix for this.
What seater are you using
That's our M-Series Seater, likely something we will roll out later this year.
That’s what I thought it was! Ready for it!
Being new to precision rifle ammo reloading, there is ONE item that lacked explanation, that is .050 last mentioned and not explained what in the world are you referring to? Please explain with clarity. Otherwise the remainder was very good.
We note in the video that we are not going to get into the minutiae of developing a load, so we pick a nice round number - .050" - for our "jump" or space that the bullet is seated away from the lands. There are ALLLLLLL sort of theories on how much you should jump or jam a bullet, but again, not digging into that here. Most people can start with a load .050" off and have solid results.
Real question…why shouldn’t someone deprime, and then clean the brass?
Can be done either way, as addressed, we don’t see any harm either way. We deprime after cleaning to save a step
👍
If you dry tumble after depriming, the media can get lodged in the flash hole then you have to punch it out. I wet tumble my brass after I deprime, however I don't use SS pins. I use just hot water,dawn, and lemishine.
ere does a guy get an adjustable bump die
Area419 and Short Action Customs make adjustable dies to bump the shoulder.
@@airborne350g thanks man I'll check it out
So I have a AGS annealer , I know everyone is raving about the amp Annealer but I just can’t afford it right now .
Nothing wrong with a flame-style! As long as you have the patience and know-how to dial it in, you can get a very solid result.
Need to make 300WSM and 284 Shehane dies so I can use them on my Zero Press. 😀
Those will be great candidates for the cut-your-own die sleeves, which will be available soon. Take them to your Smith and have him run your custom sizing reamer into them
X2 on the 300WSM
no neck sizing ?
We full-length size, giving us consistent dimensions for the whole case every time
Ye, I recall, sorry was not clear, meant to say, no mandrel sizing of the neck?
@@georgelza our die has an internal precision-ground mandrel that is pulled through all in the same stroke as the FL size
@@area419 Does this mean neck tension is not something that can be adjusted?
@@mckimmym it can be, via different sized mandrels. Our dies come with a mandrel that will yield you about .002” of tension, but we sell mandrels in .0005” increments to take you from barely any tension to about .0025”
Mostly Mad Men Like Robert Brantley 😂, He's a damn national treasure! 😂 He's definitely doing something right .
10:05. I hope I don't bruise your guidelines, but all of those fluted barrels and muzzlebrakes and colored stocks are GAF!😂
Gucci? Glorious? Gorgeous? We’ll take it!
@@area419 zing!🤣
I take it back. Start at 9.20 knowing you should full length re-size. Also bear in mind used brass should be de-primed which he forgets.
We broke the video into chapters, they're helpful to be able to skip around if you want to skip things like introductions.
also, the brass is de-capped during the sizing operation.
4 minutes in. Just got to cleaning brass. Appears to prefer dry tumbling.
this video is advertising for the most expensive reloading tools and nothing more 😂
Yeah it is and I have all of that same stuff! It’s wonderful! 😂
Most expensive and quite possiblely the best that matters to some people
@@the1zer maybe wonderfull,i have the Turban press ,much cheeper and do exactly the same job 😂
So your rationale for NOT using a wet-tumbler is YOU forgot and let it tumble too long? This is not the result of a faulty product or process, but user error.
As we explain at length, this mouth damage can and does happen with shorter run times, over multiple cleanings. But if you want to do other things, then go for it. All we are doing here is showing how we do it and talking about why we do it that way!
I wet tumble with my spent small rifle primers. They don’t get stuck in flash holes and they are softer than stainless pins so less likely to damage case mouths.
You never de-primed the case LOL.
It's a part of the sizing operation LOL
5 minutes in. Wet tumbling appears to be devilish! Just start watching from 7.15.
😻 *PromoSM*
1 minute in. Learned nothing other than someone loves the sound of their own voice. GET ON WITH IT!
2 minutes in. Still loving his own voice. Learned nothing about reloading or products.
guess the spent primers just disappeared and who cleaned out the primer pockets ?
You must be fun at parties
@@OrientalGoons gee they get some real stupid people on here !
Primers are popped during sizing (yes, there is a short clip during annealing of a recapped case, was shot out of order) and the pockets were not brushed or tumbled.
@@OrientalGoons now that comment is just plain STUPID !
3 minutes in. Still loving his own voice and passed no information on.
You did not say anything about primer pocket cleaning/prep. So maybe it is something you do, but did not address in this video. For myself, I do not want to take more time in the process cleaning pockets. That is why I like wet tumbling with pins!!! Not only does the brass come out clean without wax... the the primer pockets are perfectly clean (inside and out). No need for anything else. So you bring up two issues of wet tumbling. First is that pins can stick, bunch or get stuck. That can be easily overcome with a media separator. I have only once had a case full of pins and that was easily identified with observation/handling during the reloading process, as you stated to watch for in the video. Secondly. You bring up the issue of pinging of the necks. This is an issue that Greg Dykstra whines about and now you. So please help me understand why this is a problem for accuracy. I ALWAYS chamfer (and debur) my case (if you do not please let me know why you do not). So, if the case neck has dings but is chamfered (and deburred) no part of the neck mouth will touch the bullet... so how could this possible effect accuracy? And if you trim a case, the issue of dings is completely gone. I look forward to your response.
Buy me all the equipment that you have, and I might give this video a like, but for now it's definitely a thumbs down. I would elaborate more, but you probably wouldn't understand and couldn't take it.
I've been reloading longer than you've been breathing
@@wainr777able Biden has also been in elected office for longer than we've been breathing, in case you were concerned that years doing something was the sole barometer for performance or capability. Appreciate the constructive commentary.
You could have done this video in ten minutes vs 30. Not watchable.
There's a little bar at the bottom of the video that allows you to skip around. The reality of KZhead is that while you may have forgotten more than we will ever know about reloading, many watching this are starting out or are looking for all the little detail and commentary possible. When discussing something like reloading, we think more information and context are better than less.
Hahahaha, 50thou out... damn man... no speed node testing, no depth tuning.... damn man!!!
We pretty specifically talk about this being reloading process and not something that includes load development.
@@area419 So you make bullets that are shit and this is your "education"? How about load development is integral to reloading process?