Fast Mortise & Tenon | How to Using a Router
Mortise & tenon joints are some of the strongest joints in woodworking but without specialized equipment or lots of time and patience, they can be difficult to make.
Using nothing more than a router with an edge guide, you can create robust and fast mortise and tenon joints. Recently, I made 18 joints in less than an hour, this technique is truly a game changer.
If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments section.
Huge shout out to The Wood Whisperer for his video on the same topic. His channel is full of spectacular content and I recommend you go check him out.
The Wood Whisperer
/ thewoodwhisperer
Thanks as always and be safe,
Josh
Northwest Craftsman
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Products Used*
Router Kit, Bosch 1617EVSPK: amzn.to/2HE72Kk
Router, Bosch Edge Guide: amzn.to/3kC4FWS
Router Bit, Freud 3/8" Up Spiral: amzn.to/2TvEcyp
Machinist Square: amzn.to/2HKtfXm
Support:
Website: NorthwestCraftsman.com
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My Tools: www.amazon.com/shop/northwest...
Connect
Instagram: / northwestcraftsman
Facebook: / northwestcraftsman
Email: See contact section
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Audio Credits:
Room for Two by Dan Lebowitz (Licensed from KZhead Audio Library)
More Audio from Soundstripe**:
app.soundstripe.com/referrals...
Other Credits
Wood Whisperer Video on Mortise & Tenon with Router: • Quick & Easy Mortises
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Seeing a couple people whining about how you’re talking too fast in this… I prefer how you get right to the point. People need to stop crying about everything.
😂 thanks! I will admit that I talk quickly but I’m glad it doesn’t bug you 😂
Agreed. I don’t think people realize how much harder it is to make a KZhead video than to complain about it.
I think is better if he talks faster, hate videos where they drag and drag the main theme of it…
Thanks, Josh. I'm planning a workbench build soon so this is great info. Cheers!
Glad you found it helpful!
very clear detailed instructions. Thank you!
Glad you found it helpful!
Perfect! Will try this tomorrow. Thank you so much
Glad you found it helpful!
Thanks for sharing your skills. And you did a wonderful job explaining what you were doing 👍🏿
Thanks Ivan! I really appreciate it! I'm glad you found it helpful 😄
Helpful video, thank you.
As usual. Very helpful. Thank you.
Thanks Ralph! I’m glad you found it helpful!
thank you
Nice simple educational and a great job. Thanks mate
Thanks for the positive feedback David! I appreciate it!
Thanks for sharing ❤. God bless you
Thank you! And you as well 😊
So fast! Awesome video, thank you.
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful!
Well done! Well explained and good overall video!
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful!
Great, nice tenon & mortise work looks like a very good fit!
Thanks! It was actually tight enough that in the future I’ll oversize the mortise slightly to allow for a release of the hydraulic pressure from the glue.
Thanks for sharing!
Glad you found it helpful!
Thank you
Glad I could help!
Very good demo
Thanks! Glad you found it useful!
Great tutorial Josh! This technique appears to be a definite game changer and looks much easier than other methods. Getting ready to build my first wooden gate, so I'm excited to try this method out. Thanks.
Fantastic! I’m glad you found it helpful and honestly, this has sped up my mortise and tenon work exponentially without needing to buy a mortiser. Send photos of the gate to the email in the contact section when you’re done! I’d love to see how it turns out!
Josh (Northwest Craftsman), First time viewer. Excellent video! Informative and right to the point. Much appreciated. I'll be watching more of your videos.
Thanks Preston! I really appreciate that! Glad you found it helpful. By the way, excellent last name. I work with Angstrom level metrologies for my day job. Happy Woodworking! Josh Northwest Craftsman
This is beautiful
Thanks! I love this method, only challenge is rounding off the tenons evenly to fit well. But it is certainly much faster than cutting by hand and cheaper than buying a mortiser.
Josh, this is really helpful. Thank you.
Glad you found it helpful!
Great video. I watched the wood whisperer video first but in my opinion you explained it better. Cheers!
Thanks for the compliment! I’m glad you enjoyed it!
Without ever knowing this I did the same thing using plunge router sometime ago and now I get the confirmation from this expert!
Glad to hear it worked so well for you!
There was a suggestion to purchase a second edge guide and longer rods. Your set up has an edge guide on each side of the work piece for greater stability. This is especially helpful with narrower stock. (like 3/4 inch)
FYI , Adding the 1/16 extra helps reduce hydraulic pressure once the glue is in the joint . Think of fluted dowels . Same principle . Well done Sir.
Great tip! I’ll keep that one in mind!
Excellent thought
Make sence dude 👍
Olá Amigo Sou Brasileiro Não Entendi Seu Idioma Mas Entendi Tudo Pelas Imagens Que Foram Perfeitas. Vídeos Bem Explicado Não Precisa Conversa. Parabéns 👏👏👏👏👏👏
Obrigado toneladas! Fico feliz que o vídeo tenha sido claro o suficiente para que você possa obter as informações de que precisava. Eu não falo português nativamente, mas se você tiver alguma dúvida, o google tradutor pode me fazer maravilhas e eu adoraria ajudar! Tenha um ótimo dia e feliz marcenaria! Josh Northwest Craftsman
Thanks, guy good job. Please can you share the picture of the bit.
Thanks! Glad you liked it! And I can do you one better, here’s the link to this bit 😊 Freud Up Spiral Bit amzn.to/43DtFV9
yeah I've found that even the "select" 1x4 boards from the box store are often not quite 3 1/2 inches wide. I try now to measure the width before assuming that 1 3/4" is the center.
Yea, I’m down to just measuring everything now. No assumptions when it takes hardly any time to measure 😂
Thanks for the great video Josh! Can I just check, are you using the same upspiral bit for both mortice AND tenon? Thanks
I sure am! This bit is my workhorse. Glad you liked the video!
This is great. After work just play it half speed at certain parts about the math and enjoy with some devil's lettuce 😁 makes for simple night after work
😂 well that sure is one way to enjoy it. Glad I can help 😊
Thanks for the tip to do it with a hand router, You know Marc has a Multi Router.
I didn’t know he had that. The video I saw had him using his hand router. The multi is slick though
This is super helpful. Do you have any tips to edge cheek with this method?
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful. I’m not sure I understand what you’re asking, can you provide a little more detail?
Good video and explanation, but if you make the tenon narrower than the width of the rail, it will eliminate the possibility of there being a gap at the edges.
That’s a great suggestion. I’ve started doing shoulders on my tenons for exactly that reason 😂
@@NorthwestCraftsman I'm getting ready to make mortise and tenon joints on a six drawer pedestal for our bed, so your video came in handy.
Glad I could help! I’d love to see photos if you’re willing to share.
@@NorthwestCraftsman I'm not on any social media other than KZhead, so if I do actually complete this project, I'll send the pictures to your email if that's okay with you.
Totally get you on that! Email is great and no pressure at all. I just always love seeing what folks are doing. You can find my email on my channel page under the “About” tab.
Nice video! I cut my mortises the same way, but cut tenons on the table saw. How do you size the length and thickness of your M&T pieces, especially if you are building a table or chair where you will have workpieces coming in at 90 degrees? Since the stretchers come in at the same place on the table legs (top of the legs for example) I end up mitering the tenons to make them fit but not sure that makes for the strongest joint. Do you make your tenons shorter but thicker or do you miter the ends of your tenons too? How do you approach this?
Thanks Steve! Cutting them on a table saw is a great idea. Now that I have a dado stack, I’ll be cutting more that way. Great question. I’m not an expert by any means, still learning a ton, but had exactly the same concerns. From what I could find, it seems to point to shorter tenons being adequate, especially if they’re glued. As well, I don’t think you need to make them any fatter because most of the lateral strength comes from the tenon resting on the mortise bottom. I don’t think there are any concerns mitering the tenons or even doing a type of lap joint in the space where your tenons would meet, it just increases complexity. I try to shoot for a depth of about 1/3 the thickness of my mortise piece and that seems to have worked for me thus far. If I get something really small that requires a high load, I may look at doing a miter or lap to give more of an interface in the joint. Again, really great question.
@@NorthwestCraftsman Thanks for your thoughtful response. I totally agree with your comments about glue. Guess this is one of those cases where more is better. Interesting about the “half lap” approach. That thought never occurred to me👍🏻. Anyway, thanks for engaging with me on this. Always good to hear about what others do to approach stuff like this that comes up from time to time. Keep the great videos coming! All the best to you and yours this holiday season!
Absolutely! I love engaging with you guys and thinking through these things because it also helps me to refine my methods too. Hope you have a great holiday season as well! Josh Northwest Craftsman
Pura vida great project what is the name of the router bit ? Thanks let know guys pura vida
Hey! This one was a 3/8in Freud Up Spiral Bit (link below) amzn.to/3Gyp1xO
Good video but I'd be more inclined to make the mortice and tenon shorter than the timber by about 5mm either end of the mortice. Routers are rather fickle tools and you can easily wander so it's good to have a small shoulder overlapping the mortice so that any slight mistake like that can never be seen.
Adrian, that’s a great point! It’s a lot easier to hide minor gaps that way. Thanks for that!
That is what I was thinking. Also, the mortise and tenon should be about a third of the width of the timber. This would not be as strong as it could be.
excellent tutorial...i have a question and i'll do my best to make it brief, you did a masterful job at centering your mortise, but in the end a degree of eyeballing was required...i am searching for a method whereby i can run the short side of 2x4 oak over a "V" groove router bit down the entire length of my workpiece and know that i am absolutely dead on center...how do i set the router table fence so that i know the bit is perfectly centered? building an end grain cutting board with a diamond pattern so i want to create a 1" square channel when i hold two grooved work pieces against each other's "V" groove and a 1" sq piece of walnut will rest inside...i'm sure i can get almost perfect by marking the center and eyeballing where the point of the bit lands but any variation from the dead center (even something less the 1/64") will result in the need for a lot of sanding...i can always overcome my massive lack of talent with patience and elbow grease but i'm just trying to learn how to work smarter...thanks a lot...sorry if i've wandered too far off topic from the actual video
Hey! No worries at all! Thanks for the good question. My initial thought would be to use a marking gauge to mark the middle of the board at one end or use a marking knife. Then, using that end, you can lower the v-groove bit until just the tip protrudes from the table. Adjust the fence until this aligns with the marking gauge groove. Then, if everything is dimensioned well, there shouldn’t be any more adjusting, even if raising or lowering the bit. If I’m not understanding, feel free to shoot me an email with some photos and I’d love to talk about it more! Merry Christmas Josh Northwest Craftsman
@@NorthwestCraftsman its a great idea! and i've been wanting to buy a nice marking gauge! do you have a favorite? your idea made me think of two other possible ways....1) use a simple center punch tool instead of a pencil in my center line marking jig so i can scratch the center line for the sharp tip of the V groove bit to sit into...or 2) use the self centering function of my doweling jig and drill a small hole with a brad point drill bit to rest the V groove bit into....thoughts? thanks a lot for the response
Awesome ideas! I think both would work great, for the center punch, you may only need to make the “punch,” rather than marking it in full, and then set the tip of your bit in that spot. The workpiece should “stick” while you pull the fence into the board. Here’s the link to the one I have, it’s worked great for me but looks like they may have been having some quality issues as of late. I’ve also included a link to another style that I see a lot. If you have any other questions, let me know! It’s fun for me to think through it as well. Also, if you’re willing, I’d love to see the end result when it’s done. My current marking gauge www.amazon.com/dp/B001V9KOSM/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_glt_fabc_54ZTKPESF438P029Q8XE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ml2&tag=nwcraftsman07-20 Other highly rated style of gauge that I see a lot www.amazon.com/dp/B07FWS5T1L/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_glt_fabc_B4QFDTJVETC5QEPMVTPD?linkCode=ml2&tag=nwcraftsman07-20
@@NorthwestCraftsman i'd be honored to show you the finished product!, might take awhile since i realized the oversized V groove router bit requires a 1/2" collet router which i do not have,,,woo hoo! new tool...several months back i think you and i emailed back and forth about something else so if you'd like me to send the finished product in a DM let me know
That's right! You made the beautiful sink surround. I'd love to see photos of this once when you're done as well. Also, that's always the best time for a new tool haha
Tidy worrk
Thanks!
Is the spiral up it a lot better than the double fluted flat bit?
Hey Matt! Great question. I haven’t tested with anything but the up spiral bit but from what I’ve seen, it is a small optimization to use the up spiral bit compared to others. In fact, some people will use a down spiral or compression bit to prevent tear out on the surface which tells me the spiral direction isn’t the a factor that will prevent use entirely.
Hi, can ve make mortise and tenons easily with a fixed based 6 mm Makita 3709 router?
It’ll be a little more difficult because of the fixed base but in principle it shouldn’t be an issue. The “plunge” will be the challenge.
Thanks@@NorthwestCraftsman
Wow! Nice work boots!
Thanks!
Hi..THATS GREAT JUST WHAT I NEEDED TO GIVE ME THE CONFIDENCE TO DO THE SAME FOR SOME TABLE LEGS..ITS AUSTRALIAN HARD WOOD...AND IT IS HARD..WE ARE IN N.S.W. AUSTRALIA ...THANKS DAVID..
Glad I could help! Good luck on your project and happy woodworking! Josh Northwest Craftsman
Well that was completely confusingly explained, thank you.
Shoot! I’m sorry to hear that, anything I can help clarify?
That tenon seems a little thin, have you had any problems with breakage?
I haven’t had any of mine break, granted normally I’m loading my mortise and tenon joints vertically (in the long direction) rather than sideways (in the short direction).
Hello, what model of router is your bosch?
Hey Florin! Thanks for the question, mine is the 1617EVSPK which is the kit including both the fixed and plunge base. A link to it is below. Router Kit, Bosch 1617EVSPK: amzn.to/2HE72Kk
@@NorthwestCraftsman thank you👍
How long should a tenon be? Is there a rule of thumb to it?
I haven’t heard a rule of thumb. I’ve done through tenons and blind tenons. If blind, I usually shoot for 1/4-1/2 the thickness of the receiving piece but theoretically, you could do less depending on the application.
Very informative. If you need a wider mortise can multiple passes, be made with the 3/8" bit?
Absolutely, the problem you may run into is the profile at the ends of the mortise. May require some chisel clean up
Can you use a dremel 4000
I hesitate to say something isn’t possible but I think it’d be pretty difficult with a dremel unless they have an attachment I’m not aware of.
👍🌻👍
💯👏👏🇲🇽
I want my mortice across the wood. Imagine a shallow box or a shelf.
That shouldn’t be an issue. Just keep in mind how thin the tenon gets and where the grain is, you’ll be most likely to break along the shoulder of the tenon. If you’re doing a shelf or box, I’d be more tempted to do a dado joint.
Surely, you can negate rounding off if you cut a shoulder into it
Great comment! And I think it depends on how tightly you need the mortise to fit. If you’re going for a line to line fit with a square tenon and rounded mortise, even with a shoulder hiding the rounded portion, it will still likely be a little loose. All up for personal preference and work required though.
how did you make a tenon?
It’s halfway through at 4:49 👍
Nice work. But if you drop that router or square off the table you'll regret the shorts and sandals.
There are times where I choose not to wear the safest clothes in the shop for the sake of comfort. But you are 100% correct, the safest option is pants and close toed shoes.
Hey Josh, Products Used might need an update. You have a router table listed, but I didn't see one in the video. You did use an Irwin Tools Combination Square, Metal-Body, 12", 1794469 that's not listed. Thanks for making this video and keep up the good work.
Chuck, Great catch and thank you for pointing it out! I've updated the section. Happy Woodworking! Josh
How the hell did your router not wander off when you cut your mortise both ways plunging each time???
Great question! I certainly didn’t free hand it, the Bosch Router edge guide did all the work. It’s been super handy. Router, Bosch Edge Guide: amzn.to/3kC4FWS
Very nice video but a little too many words spoken too fast when dealing with the measurement of router cut tenons.
I’m glad you liked the video and that’s fair feedback! I’ll work on it
Great tutorial, thanks! Had to keep winding back the clip, as you speak very fast for my australian ears :)
Hahaha, sorry, it’s not just your ears. That’s constant feedback for me 😂 I’m working to slow it down. Glad you found it helpful!
Why don't you use a v groove but to centre your router it much easier and reliable if you already have a centre line.
Great question! A v groove would be easier to align but I haven’t seen a v groove that‘s intended to cut deep slots like this mortise. If precise alignment was a must though, the v groove could always be inserted to align the router and edge guide, then swapped for the up spiral bit since the axis of the bits are the same.
@@NorthwestCraftsman sorry I meant use a v groove just to centre the router. You can then change to any bit knowing that the router is set to centre.
Gotcha! Then yes, you were way ahead of me 😊
1 fucken too that could use a led light is router and ofc they dont put it above spindle . Autocad tool designers never spent a minute using their products .
Man you need my simple to build mortise and tenon fixture. You’re doing way too much math and it’s so easy for you to slip and mess it up.
Hey, I’d love to check it out, always looking for better methods, do you have a link?
@@NorthwestCraftsman kzhead.info/sun/lZuYeLCceKiMnH0/bejne.htmlsi=k5ipDklFf2RGh_SU
Fascinating! Very nice build and you’re right, more accurate.
Wow ❤️... You were speaking too fast though... Next be a little bit slow.
Thanks for the feedback! That is something I’m working on 😊
You told us that the bit is 'better' but you did not tell us why?
Great catch! Thanks for calling that out. I like this Freud bit for a few of reasons: 1. It’s much sharper than other bits I’ve purchased 2. It keeps it’s edge longer 3. The up-spiral helps to clear chips better Some of these aren’t necessarily limited to this bit alone, for example, all up spiral bits should clear chips similarly. But, my primary compliment was for Freud bits in general which have worked beautifully for me compared to the cheaper bits I’ve purchased in the past. Hope this helps!
Interesting. 3 things I do differently: I'd use my drill press to make the first 2 holes, because it has a laser. I'd use a center-finder to draw a center line. Lastly, I'd use a router table. The bit will fit in the existing hole, allowing me to retro-set the fence
Great suggestions! That is absolutely another way to do it. Only part I don’t love is either starting the router table in the predrilled hole or setting the workpiece on the bit already in motion.
four sixteenths minus seventeen fourtyninths.....how do you measure in than lanugage!
😂 Adam, know that I’m with you 😂 I wish the US was on the metric system and have for years. It’s better in numerable ways. I will say though, it’s amazing how the human brain will adopt whatever system you’ve given it. The fractional math used in “English/Standard” system isn’t as hard as it seems given some time.
"Slip fit" ... "interference fit" Are you an engineer? Because these sound like engineerey words. -- a machinist, moonlighting as a woodworker
Hahahaha, you caught me 😂 I’m a mechanical engineer by day, like you, moonlighting as a woodworker 😂
Thank you, it's very simple, but if you speak more slowly to be understand by foreign people
Thanks for the feedback! I’lol work on slowing it down!
just feedback from a consumer. Your video spews measurements, but I was not able to visualize it. I guess this video was not intended for newbies.
Hey David! I really appreciate that feedback. My goal is that my videos are accessible to everyone. I’ll try to simplify things in future conversations!
1. Slow down. 2. Leave out the redundant words. You obviously know the subject matter very well and are an excellent woodworker, but that was hard to follow.
I appreciate your honest feedback. Concision and pace are both things I am actively trying working on.
You speak too fast!
😂 I am sorry, I get that feedback more than I thought I would and am working on it 😂
Almost impossible to follow. Talk too fast. Too bad
Steve I appreciate your feedback and have received it before. I’m working to slow it down a little. Any questions I can answer regarding this technique?