#onefinity #cnc #woodworking #diyfurniture #endgraincuttingboard #cuttingboards #vcarve #inlay #mallets #diy
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My cut settings for this inlay:
DISCLAIMER!!
These settings may not be the end all/be all answer to perfect inlays.
There are many more variables to consider than just cut settings.
No two CNC machines are the same and your mileage may, and most likely will vary!!
It's best to test and practice and figure out what settings are best for YOU!
Vcarve Pro - Vcarve Toolpath
Pocket:
0.0" Start Depth
0.25" Flat Depth
Inlay:
0.24" Start Depth
0.01" Flat Depth
Stuff I used in this video:
Sanding discs assortment pack-amzn.to/3DGcVjL
3M 80grit to 320grit assortment. Highly recommend! - amzn.to/44KvIql
Sand sponges - amzn.to/450WCK6
WEN 6524 Oscillating Belt and Spindle Sander - amzn.to/3Yt9zKV
Bits used on this project:
5.15 Deg Tapered Angle Ball Tip Radius=0.25mm X 6mm Shank: amzn.to/3J7gpOY
1/8" up-cut end mill: amzn.to/3NxAjo6
1/2" Ball Nose bit: Whiteside 1404 - amzn.to/3Q2ssR4
My video gear:
Davinci Resolve Pro: amzn.to/3NYxGxa
Sony ZV-E10: amzn.to/3pzAUxQ
SmallRig Camera Cage: amzn.to/43czmaC
Tamron 17-70mm lens: amzn.to/434s7Sc
#onefinity #cnc #woodworking #diyfurniture #endgraincuttingboard #cuttingboards #vcarve #inlay #mallets #diy
Nice job. It's so easy to make a mistake and trash days of work in an instant, so was good to see you handle the juice groove inlay without issue!
Any time you can increase your creative skill set it's a good thing. I am in my 70's and just took up a CNC a year ago. Learning all the software and the nuances of the CNC machine has been a great experience. Never too old to learn a new skill. Thanks for sharing your knowledge .
I'm not far behind you at 67! And I don't have the time to learn by reinventing the wheel from scratch! So I appreciated M&SWoodwork's willingness to share what he's learned.
AMEN!!! Great content...Please keep it coming...I am also in my early 70's and just starting my CNC journey. Stop Learning...Stop Living!!!
Love this video! I just set up my longmill mk 2 and sufaced my spoil board last night. Very excited to get carving. I've been looking forward to doing inlays and your video is inspiring!!! Thank you
I’m a Derek! But unlike the other I appreciate all the skills required to do what you do. I’ve been a wood worker for 35 years and I’m still intimidated by my CNC. The haters will always hate so just keep doing what you do!
Thank you sir! I know that not all Derek's are created equal! Ha! Thank you for watching!
Hey, I'm a 76 year old great grandmother, and that CNC work was wayyy more work than I want to do. It's beautiful!!! All I've made so far is a regular cutting board, and I'm really proud of myself. There is pride of knowing you did your best, and there is pride when you think you're better than others. Even God bragged at the end of each day when He created everything by saying it was "good". When He created man He said that was "very good". Glad you didn't let that comment get you down.
Bless you, ma'am! Your comment made me smile! I believe anything that we make or create, be it with our hands, or using our mind to operate a machine, no matter how simple or complex is a blessing from God. And no ma'am, I didn't let that kid get me down. If anything his comment inspired me! Thank you for the kind words and thank you for watching!!
Absolutely Beautiful!!! I am a CNC aficionado, and I can see you are and artists. can way to see your next project.
I tell folks to sit back and fire your videos up like a warm fire. You've taught me a lot and I really enjoyed it. Thanks.🍻
Thank you Andy! That means a lot! If you like Vcarve Inlays, then you'll really appreciate a couple of videos I have coming up in about a month. Thank you for watching!
Very nice! I have a Onefinity Journeyman and I am just getting started with VCarve Pro and hope to be able to make some cutting boards like yours. Thanks for the video!
you're right !!! it's just like the 3D Printing it's a creation work !!! i would even say it's an artistical work. i know i'm unable to do do what you are doing a great job !!!!
I know plenty of CNC Operators. I also know many artists that use CNC as a tool. This is an artist
Okay, you now have me scrambling to figure out where I can put a shop press into my tiny shop. I like the scissor jack modification, BTW.
Mark, it's a game changer for sure. Clamps and cauls on especially larger inlays just doesn't cut it. Good luck to you and thanks so much for watching!
AMEN Brother!! Great craftsmanship sir
A good craftsman uses ANY TOOL AT HIS DISPOSAL to do quality work. What "derek" and the rest of the trolls forget is that ALL WOOD is harvested with a power chainsaw, transported using diesel trucks, planked by a powered saw mill, sized on a power plainer, cut to size using some sort of powered saw, holes drilled using a power drill, more often than not, finished using some sort of powered sander - the list goes on and on. AND THOSE ARE ALL TOOLS TO HELP THE CRAFTSMAN. A CNC machine is simply one of those MANY tools available to the MODERN CRAFTSMAN.
Well said!! Thank you for watching!!
That board came out really well … you know, for a machine operator lol. By the way, I use Sapele a lot. I love it. Also, nice job fixing that little blowout.
I think your work is amazing, and it comes from you, not the machine, the machine is doing what you tell it to! Don’t worry about those little pee-on’s negative comments, obviously they stopped to watch because you sparked their interest 😊
Very well stated! Don't allow critical people to affect your creativity. You have a significant talent.
kzhead.info/sun/esmtYseIjaZna3k/bejne.html - I designed and patented this farm drainage tile plow. (I am a retired farmer.) When a neighbor first saw it he said these exact words, "Just how is that going to improve the quality of your life!!" Not long after that when he saw it working, he bought one and loved it. Then later he told me he loved his tile plow more than he loved his wife. And then his wife was VERY upset with me. Just an example of how some critics can't ever say something nice without causing more problems. I use a CAD program for designing various things, including the previously mentioned drainage tile plow. It takes a lot of thought and effort to do that. I know just enough about it to understand that you really know what you are doing.
Amen!! Thanks for those lovely words, cause half these folks have no clue on the work it takes to make something beautiful, unique and special for that client or special someone. Look forward to your next one!
So... If you use a mechine you're a machine operator? Gosh... I don't have a CNC, yet. But I do have a table saw, drill press, planer, sander, hand drill , multi saw, and more. So I guess I am a machine operator as well. You just keep doing what yoou do. 😎
Please, don't worry about the deadbeats on this platform I have two lasers and one flatbed UV printer and just ordered my $5000.00 CNC the amount of work that goes into the design, computer knowledge, and problem solving that comes up during the process of making something is crazy whether you are old school using hand tools or into the future of woodworking (Creating), you are still a creator so don't listen to the "Trolls" !!! just keep doing what you are doing...................We love you !!! Best, Rick. Oh.................AMEN!!!
Been in California for many years but the family is from Tennessee so I don't mind the southern accent at all. I've had a CNC for several years and have learned you need to be an artist for designs and an engineer for getting the software to perform the way you want. And also a mechanic to make sure the CNC is working properly. Mostly a woodworker to see a piece of wood for what it can become sitting on a shelf, table, or kitchen counter. Amen y'all
I think you were dead on with your rant. I am a welder by trade or so I say I have designed multimillion dollar oil field equipment now and I am designing and building a cnc router/plasma table and would like to shout out to the creators like yourself as well as the people who first built these cnc machines. I think of myself as some one who is fairly smart but even with all the content on you tube I sometimes find it hard to understand how some people can make things looks so easy when in fact it is not. My thanks to you and all the creators on you tube.
Woodworking criticism is bad enough, but I couldn't imagine having a channel about welding! Ha! Thank you for the good words and thank you for watching!
Amen, hallelujah brother. Now climb down off the cross, I could use the wood. . . Excellent work, look forward to more. Thanks for taking the time to record, edit, and post your work. Not everyone appreciates how much time it adds to a project.
Thank you for saying that. I was very surprised when I first started doing this how time consuming it is. But comments like yours make it worthwhile. Thank you for watching!!
You are right. I also have a cnc and it is pretty hard to do such stuff you do with it. You even manage the tight corners which is not easy at all…
I just found you. Amen!! Been wanting to step up my end grain cutting boards. Have stayed away from the cnc. One it intimidated me, two I thought, one more tool, plus learning the darn thing. Watching you and some others, I’m taking a second look. Plus, I like the voice over. I hate guys spending ten minutes explaining how they are going to turn the machine on. Turn it on, I figure some of it out while I watch. Lol. Thanks for the time to share with us what you’ve learned.
Thank you Rich! Your comment made me giggle. Ha! Thank you for watching!
Great video, awesome work brother! Loved the gorilla 😂
wow,, your patience is astounding.. thats a lot of steps,,but the end was great
You did a great job on the cutting board. Don't worry, you will always have naysayers in anything you do. Personally, I think you are a skilled craftsman and you do great work. I love woodworking but I don't have a CNC machine, YET. Even though I am in my late 70's, I still enjoy learning something new and interesting. What a legacy that we may be able to leave behind. May the Lord continue to bless you and your work. Take care my friend. Rudy.
Rudy, thank you for the kind words! God bless you, sir! Thank you for watching!!
Great videos! I love them, keep it up. I am on the beginning of my woodworking and CNC adventures. It's full of frustrations, but when it comes together it's the best feeling in the world!
Very Cool, I'm a woodworker and I say to others, middle finger up, it takes alot of work to do this stuff!!!
Warm thx from holland still learning
Amen brother! Great job! Never thought of putting an inlay in the juice groove! Keep up the good work! Thank you for sharing!
Top-notch. I look up to you, sir. Technique is outstanding, and attention to every detail. Flawless
I just found your channel. I have been a woodworker for close to 30 years and located in south Alabama as well. Nice to know there are a few of us in the area.
Very nice work! I've had my CNC for a few years now, and am currently working on my first end grain inlay. I've watched many videos and seen just as many recommendations for proper settings. So I've decided to just make my best guess and see what happens. Everything is an experiment ~ occasionally something beautiful happens!
No one setting is perfect. That is a fact! I plan on doing a video in the future, explaining the math behind the Vcarve Inlay Technique, so folks can figure out what the best settings is for them and their particular machine. Thank you for watching!
Awesome Job, and well said
Really enjoyed your work!! Looking forward to learning more from you. Thanks for taking the time to make your videos.
Wow beautiful work and craftsmanship
I’m so glad I found your channel. Great content, great commentary. I subscribed. Thanks for sharing your experience. Greetings from Western Australia 🇦🇺
Good job, Good video
Nice work. I was considering doing some inlays with my CNC and love the idea of the press for clamping.
A warning, this is a bit of a very long boring post, but in spite of what it sounds like, it is not about me, it is all about my appreciation of you, the work you ( and other like you ) are doing and how you do it.. First let me applaud you for all you accomplish in your woodworking including dealing with the " Karens" of the internet. ( you know who you are Derek and friends). Please kep making these great videos. Please feel free to point out what appears to be bad spelling, I don't feel my fingers and type like crap hitting a bunch of keys at once.. I don't wear my feelingss on my sleeve and will edit as needed. This may be only the second or third post I have ever done on a woodworking video or forum. I am about to waste a bit of your time with my own credentials, but,,,, I was programming automated machinery since before there were computers. We used a strip of paper tape with holes puched in it like a ticker tape you see in the old stock trading movies. Light passing through the holes to indicate a positive or negative condition with a collection of the conditions initiating a certain move on the tool.... blah, blah blah . it was simply called N.C. ( numerical control ). That was before I was out of high school. I went through a formal union woodworking apprenticeship and the ensueing required competition to become a journeyman that included several thousand of us internationally and I completed the apprenticeship in record time as the top Journeyman graduating from that very large group. I returned by invitation to the training center as an instructor immediatly upon graduation while simultaneously starting my own company. I was soon later blessed enough to get to study and become friends with the retired head sculptor for the Vatican and improved on my carving skills significantly. I was a one man shop that was really blessed with clients that demanded projects that most woodworking shops would not touch or said couldn't be done. I went through almost a decade with NO sandpaper in my shop and using only hyde glue and/or physical interlocking joinery, doing " proper " period pieces with original methods. We made our scrapers by shocking thick homemade glass into shards I still own roughly 260 Gouges, 70 " carpenter chisels " and maybe 200 or so planes for specific molding cuts. Some I went to England and found or had made custom there but most I made ( as most REAL woodworkers did Derek ) in house. As a propr woodworker I learned about metalurgy, forming , tempering etc. In 1986 I had all of my steel in my shop including hand tools, saws, power tool bits and blades cyrogenically treated at 4 kelvins ( forgove me Derek, you can just google it ). I was regularly published nationally and maintained a 6 figure minimum with several commissioned projects surpassing 7 figures. I reproduced part of the Palace of Versaille and did over $2.7M on a 53' Wooden Yacht. I guess by Dereks standards I am still just a machine operator. I never really cared for cabinets or casework although I built 2 large kitchen that had horizontallly inward curved faces that everyone else said couldn't be produced. I was excited by other new challenges . A neck injury in 1992 lost the functional use of my hands for a long while so I decided I should build a cnc router to keep cash flow going. A tempting cash offer caused me to sell the first router I built and for a moment, I thought I was going into the CNC business but then I met " Derek". Folks would read a few magazine articles and actually think they could just buy a router and puch a button and do what I did. It only took a few Dereks for me to decide I did not have the desire to deal with likes of them. CNC became my weapon of choice for portions of my projects but the decades of fine woodworking are where my real value surfaced. My resume, if I had a need for one will included multiple US presidents, NASA, Dept. of Defense, NFL team owners, major International designers ( like Hermes , Fabrice Grandin both from Paris ) some of the most famous athletes in the world. One of my favorite and most challenging projects ever was developing and producing mold to produce a carbon fiber trombone that included 100% of the components. I departed from wood and produced the molds from Corian for obvious heat and mechanical reasons. Much to my own surprise, the mold worked first go. Tolerances on the slide and other mating parts were basicall +/- 0.0015 ". You have probably seen this black trombone on TV . I could go on much further but by now you should be well fed up with me and I was only hoping the Dereks of the world would know I AM a world class woodworker am am in absolute total respect of the likes of what is done here in this video. Getting from idea to product with CNC requires a lot of effort and investment in workflow development, design balancing, and MUST include previous knowlege of advanced woodworking to keep from wasting all of the other work invested. It is vastly more complicated when you add video production in the middle or your workflow. I bought a bunch of very expensive video equipment, sound and lights etc. and never made public even a single video that I made for my original channel. I stripped my website form 400 pages to a single page last year and have now it totally shut down for the moment. I thought I was going to start producing training videos etc. The effort it takes to produce a video to help other is unappreciated by anyone except for those that have done it. It at least doubles your production time while totally stopping some parts of the project if not duplicating some of the work to make sure you have the footage you need to. All of this while you are doing it to help others ans NO you don't get a bunch of money from KZhead for doing these kinds of videos. The editing and scripting is an art form all of it's own. When you see a video like this with good lighting, good focus and details explained in easy to understand ways, it was not done by the seat of the pants. It is a LOT of time and effort and this was done as well as any , not to mention the actual woodworking was really functional and tight. M&S Woodworks has earned a spot of very high respect from this "Machine operator".
All I can say is WOW! You do indeed have quite the resume!! With that I am honored and humbled by your words, and I truly appreciate the kudos! Happy New Year to you sir, and thank you for watching!!
AMEN!!! Absolutely fabulous work! Getting use to the southern accent myself. Formerly a cheese head (Wisconsin) and now living in Ozark, Al. Very impressive work, and design. Thank you for sharing, and you have a new subscriber.
Thank you sir! Welcome to the South!
Amen - the groove around the edge to match a ritz cracker is awesome planning and attention to detail. I think I need to steal that feature.
Please do! I like it because it kind of "frames" the design in the center Thank you for watching!
Great stuff!!!
Nicely done!
Hallelujah! I've made plenty of firewood using all sorts of tools in the wrong way, including my CNC. This board looks fantastic; I really like how deep you went (I usually limit it to .25"). It seems like you're using a very similar small angle v-bit as well. Those fine lines on the male plug part of the inlay are impressive. Also, thank you for the tips on the juice groove! I need to remember the Ritz size factor.
Love the video....keep them coming. I really enjoy watching. I'm getting motivated to try some inlays. I would like to see how you setup your cuts in Vcarve.
I do indeed plan on making a video, to cover the math behind the Vcarve inlay technique as well as my workflow on how I create those tool paths. Stay tuned! 🙂
Amen, brother!! Can't wait to get my CNC to enhance my woodworking projects. Don't worry about the haters too much. Gotta get boring in their mommy's basements.
Screw the negative people.They do not have anything to accomplish in their boring lives.All they do is sit in front of a computer and troll.Great work !
I'm a woodworker, I've made very nice furniture. I wish I could do what you do, it's beautiful. I'm getting started with inlays, I can't seem to figure it out, so massive respect. Looking forward to your next video
In the next month or so, I plan on making a cutting board with a very complicated inlay. My intentions are to explain the math behind the inlays to help folks better understand how to do them successfully. Thank you for watching!
That would be awesome, I'm looking forward to it@@MandSWoodworks
100% correct in saying YOUR A CRAFTSMEN ,ARTIST, AND CREATOR! Keep up the great work! May I ask what CNC are you using
Thank you sir! I have the Onefinity Journeyman with the Elite series upgrade. Thank you for the kind words and thank you for watching!
Great video, I'm thinking about getting into cnc. Keep up the good work and don't let the sourpuss get to you.😊
You have some serious talent!!!
Excellent work!
I'll certainly give you an "AMEN"! And, as someone who's trying to reach the level you've obtained, I appreciate the information you've so generously shared. I'd just like to ask for one more piece of info that might really help me resolve some failures I've had. Would you mind sharing the speeds and feeds you used? Thanks, and keep being a positive creator!
Thank you for the kind words! When cutting the pocket, My feed is 80ipm and my spindle speed is 14k RPM for the engraving bit and about 12k RPM for the clearing bit. When I am cutting inlays, due to the start depth being so deep, I slow the feed rate on both bits down to 30 to 40ipm depending on how dense the wood is, and my spindle speed RPM remains the same. I hope this helps. Thank you for watching!
@@MandSWoodworks BTW, wouldn't it have been easier to put the inlay for the juice groove in before cutting the juice groove? It seems to me that would have reduced the process from 3 steps to 2!
Possibly. And I did think about that before settling on cutting the groove first. The inlay in the juice groove is 1/4" deep. The juice groove is a little over 1/8" deep. To cut the pocket and inlay before the juice groove meant that they would have had to been both cut at a little over 3/8". Thats a very deep inlay, and I feared increased the chances of it not seating against the pocket floor, which I am a stickler for. But in truth, it would be personal preference ,and most likely would have worked fine to cut the groove after installing the inlay. :)
Very cool. Thank you for sharing.
Your inlay work is amazing and inspiring. But as great as that is, I also noticed your spoilboard. Could you do a video on making it? Thanks
Ironically enough, I get more questions on my Waste Board than anything else I do. Lol. My Waste Board is actually quite simple, and for good reason. I use 3/4" PVC as stops, as you saw in the video. I just created circles in Vectric that were the proper size for the PVC pipe to fit down inside of, and then just arranged them into a pattern that I liked and then fit inside the cutting area of my CNC Bed. So if your bed is 48inches x 32inches like mine is, create that size in vectric. Sprinkle some circles inside of that work area and then cut them into your waste board. I plan to replace my waste board in the next few weeks, as it's getting kind of thin, so I'll make a video of it's replacement and touch on how I come up with those patterns. Thank you for watching!
Absolutely awesome!
I love it Awesome job brother
Amen Brother!
Amen brother.
Looks great, brother, most machined parts do, LOL! The other thing creators have that Derek lacks is patience.
Great vid! Love that press! Where did you get those yellow/orange push clamps? The ones pushing your work piece into the corner?
Thank you! Here's an Amazon link... They aren't perfect because they will in fact push up against your work, but I get around that by continuing to use the wooden wedges and dog holes, and using the clamps to hold the wedges in place. They tend to back out if the work experiences any vibration. The clamps work awesome for that. Thank you for watching! Bench Dog Clamps amzn.to/3JW4Meh
Amen!
AMEN!
What is the tapered bit you prefer to use for inlay carving? Stunning work!
Thank you for the compliment! There is an Amazon link to the bit I used in the video description. Thank you for watching!
I'm glad Mark Lindsay recommended your channel. My spoiler board is getting replaced in the near future and I'm checking out what others use. With using the pegs and side pressure have you had any issues with pieces lifting up? I generally am working with 1/2" boards and if I don't clamp down I have problems. I do like your waist board protecting the spoiler board approach. I might try nylon bolts as a hold down. Last week I ruined a surfacing bit when I hit a steel bolt. Beautiful inlays. (EDIT 20 minutes later...) I just watched the Epoxy Inlay video. Yup, I've had that happen more than a few times.
Regarding my clamping methods... I started using the wooden wedges a couple of years ago with great results. Though admittedly, in operations where there are aggressive cuts, like deep pocket cuts and/or profile cuts, the vibrations from the cut would cause the wedges to back out. I have since bought some bench dog clamps and I use them to push against the wedges and it keeps them from backing out. One might ask, if I have the bench dog clamps, then why do I still use the wedges? Because the bench dog clamps do indeed push against the wood and cause the workpiece to lift up from the bed, but the wedges do not. So I use them to keep the wedges from backing out and it's a win/win! For small pieces that are also thin (3/4" or thinner) I'll either use the secondary waste board with screws, like you see in the video, or I'll just simply tape it to the machine bed using double sided tape. Sorry for the long response but I wanted to make sure I answered your question corretly. Thank you for watching!
Amen Bro!
Amen X 100!!!
AMEN brotha!
?? Your creations are amazing. Can you answer a question for me. Are you using a V bit and developing your tool path with the inlay toolpath? I though that's what I heard in one of your videos. If so, are there any tricks in doing it that way? Thanks Dave....
Thank you for the compliments! No, I am using a Tapered Ball Nose, that is assigned as an engraving bit in Vectric. I then use a Vcarve tool path. :) Thank you for watching!
Very very nice work, I love the juice groove. Do you configure you Tapered ball nose as an engraving bit or as a regular tapered ball nose in your tool database?
I do configure it as an engraving bit. Thank you for watching!
nice work! You mentioned your start depths and flat depths, but are you using a v-carve toolpath for both the pocket and the inlay? Thanks!
Yes. Vcarve Toolpath for both the inlay and pocket cuts. :) Thank you for watching!
Thanks for making the video, it turned out beautiful and thanks for sharing your depths. What size spindle do you use? Thank you again
I run a 2.2kw water cooled spindle. Thanks for watching!
Amen brother 🙌
Great project, cudos.
Amen😊
Great job and do not worry about what other people say. Now for the questions. I am running the same software and machine as yours, I think my spindle may me smaller. But, have you done any work( Inlay) with the new Ver 12 of V Carve Pro? Are you going to do a video on using that software and settings?
Thank you for the compliment! I have v12 but I have not tried the new Vcarve Inlay Tool Path they added to it. I just use the same Vcarve tool path that I always have. I am working on a video now showing different tool path settings for producing inlays. I plan to try the new Vcarve Inlay tool path just to see how well it works, so stay tuned. If you are looking for more comprehensive videos touching on the V12's new features, check out Mark Lindsay's channel. He's the Vectric guru and knows much more about it than I do at the moment. Thank you for watching!!
Amen
Beautiful work. I assume you're doing the clearance path before the v carve?
Thank you! Yes. The tip of the engraving bits I use are so small and thin, I do my best to keep them out of harms way as much as I can. I know a lot of folks run the finishing pass first, as it helps combat tear out, but you also risk breaking the tip off the bit. Ask me how I know. 😁 Thank you for watching!
@@MandSWoodworksThanks for explaining your reasoning. I will keep that in mind.
Great video. I need to try this. What is that clamp you use on the bed?
Thank you! These are the clamps that I use. amzn.to/49or2IH
Accent doesn't matter, what matters is the personality and the skill and you nailed both! One question, do you set the V bit to do the one pass separately or does V carve do it automatically for you in the pocket operation? Keep having fun!
Thank you! Regarding your question... In the pocket operation, the vbit will behave like any other bit in any other tool path. It will only cut as deep as what you have set in the pass depth of the bit settings. Meaning if your pocket is .25" deep and your pass depth settings are .125" then the bit will cut the pocket in 2 passes. I hope I understood your question correctly and gave you the answer you were looking for. Thank you for watching!
Hi, I understand that but in terms of doing like the one final pass as you have it, I cannot seem to set it right. Basically I want to gauge the material with flat bit and then finish with V bit like you. Maybe I am affraid because the bit looks so fragile @@MandSWoodworks
When doing the pocket of the inlay, the bit will step down so no worries about breaking it. Now if you're talking about the inlay/male cut then yes, it will plunge straight into the depth you have as your start depth and there is a risk of breaking the bit. I run my feed at around 30ipm for those cuts. That answer your question?
@@MandSWoodworks Yep I think so. I will give it a go and see how it goes. Thanks for your time and advice
Wow! Nice work, South Alabama. I have a CNC and am just learning. I’m curious where you think you learned the most. Was it on KZhead? If so, what channels helped the most? Thanks South Louisiana
Admittedly, most of my knowledge and been hard knocks. I've always liked figuring things out myself. But if I got really stuck on something, Mark Lindsay has tons of useful videos for beginners just starting out. He covers most everything from creating toolpaths, to what bits are good for certain projects. Check out his channel. You won't be disappointed! www.youtube.com/@MarkLindsayCNC
Mate a brilliant Inlay and don't listen to those negative people out there, I would put it down to jealously with respect to what you are creating. I am very new to CNC and would love to make a board like yours. Would you share the tools , speeds etc that you use and how to get the depths for the inlay. Once again Brilliant and an AMEN to you from Australia.
Thanks Jason! Check out the description. I have all my settings and bits that I used listed there. Thank you for watching!
Outstanding work sir and inspirational! Which brand of CNC are you using? I've been learning on the Shapeoko 3 with both positive and negative experiences.
I currently have a Onefinity Journeyman. My first machine was a Shapeoko 3 XXL Those are very capable machines! Good luck and thank you for watching!
Nice work bud. What kind of bit is that? 30 degree? Thanks
Thank you! It is a 4.69 degree engraving bit. Here is an Amazon link: amzn.to/3NsHNZG Thank you for watching!
any recommended courses for a beginner, I really like your channel, learning from actual doers and wood experts, I'm starting in the wood crafting as a side hobby but I would like to get more into CAD design for CNC cutting. Thanks for you amazing videos!
I don't know of any specific courses, persay, but the are tons of KZhead videos for beginners. Check out Mark Lindsay. He has a channel on KZhead with tons of great info for beginners. Thank you for watching!
Thank you very much !! Great video Great advice I am currently trying my own inlays with your settings from the last video .25sd .01 .027 Any reason you changed this time ? Thanks again!! Cheers
Since that video I've recalibrated my machine and my stepper distances have changed. So I used a different start depth on my inlay settings. I plan on making a video talking about the math behind the Vcarve inlay technique in depth to explain this. A good rule of thumb is to measure the deepest cut of your pocket cut, and let that measurement be your start depth for your inlay cut. But that is only if you don't want a glue gap. I always hesitate to suggest a specific cut setting because it truly depends on how your machine is setup. I hope this makes sense. Thank you for watching!
How many thousands of an inch(.001", .002", .003") under do you carve the inlays? I will be getting into this soon so I am looking for some tips/help. Beautiful work by the way. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I am assuming that you are talking about cutting the inlay to an offset of the pocket cut to get the inlay to fit properly? If so, then the answer is none. If you are using the correct bit for deep inlays, and that bit is setup properly in your CAM software, then an offset isn't necessary. That is why an angled bit is used so that the inlay fits into the pocket, with the angled walls of the inlay and pocket seating against each other when the inlay is pressed down into the pocket. You would only need an offset if you were using a straight bit, and you would never get any small details (sharp corners and such) to cut correctly. I have another video called "A Redneck's Guide to Vcarve Inlays" where i lightly touch on the subject. Check it out and it might give you a bit better answer. I will also be releasing a video in the coming weeks where I go in-depth about the math behind the Vcarve inlay and how you can easily figure out your cut settings yourself. I hope that this answered your question. Thank you for watching!
@@MandSWoodworks Got it, I understand what you mean and thank you very much for taking the time to respond, and the other video. Much appreciated.
Great video! I have a question, what are your settings as far as depths? I tried EVERYTHING and can’t seem to get it. Vcarve just came out with a vcarve inlay “app” but that only uses v bits. Thanks!
Settings can vary on several things. I've got a couple more videos on the subject where I touch on settings. Check them out and if it doesn't answer your question, let me know and I'll try and give you a starting point to try. Thank you for watching!
@@MandSWoodworks thanks - will do!
Beautiful work! I like how you you fixed the tear out. Question - it looks like you removed the work piece from the spoilboard, then put it back to contiinue machining. Curious how you re-registered? I'm Planning to get a CNC after the first of the year, and sure appreciate people like you creating content we can all learn from. Curmudgeon's who just want to bitch about some skill or technique they don't like for the sake of pontification are just noise in the wind. As such I give you an "amen" too. You mentioned your in S. AL., we're probably fairly close. Perhaps our paths will cross someday. Cheers!
My machine is equipped with a Masso CNC controller. It has the ability to save multiple offsets that I set when I begin a project. For example, when I first secured this board to my table, I probed for X and Y zero in the bottom left corner. I was able to save that value and recall it when I returned the board to the table. I just need to insure that I secure the board in the same exact place as before, which I'm able to do because I have permanent stops that the board sits against when cutting. I hope that I answered your question. Thank you for watching!!
Thanks! @@MandSWoodworks
@@MandSWoodworks Yeah thanks... I got jealous on your probe technique and finally put the probe kit add-on in my ShopBot cart. It's just $$$...
Question: How do you consistently get x and y zeroed after removing the piece and then placing back on the CNC? It seems to me that even a millimeter of difference would effect the the subsequent carvings. Am I wrong?
Two ways... One is that on my controller I am able to save XYZ origins that I zero on particular projects. But even if I weren't able to save those points, just re-zeroing XYZ using a touch probe in the same spot each time gives me accurate results Secondly is making sure that the board goes back in the same exact spot each time and you do that by creating an accurate 'fence' for the board to rest against when replacing it on the waste board. I do that using the pvc pipe you see in the video as stops. You are not wrong. Repeatability is very important when doing complicated inlays. There are so many variables that can make a carving a success or a failure. Accuracy and rigidity of the CNC machine. Cut settings. And of of course the human element. I hope this answered your questions. Thank you for watching!
@@MandSWoodworks You answered my question perfectly. Thank you. I look forward to seeing more of your work.
Do you get better detail with an endbrain inlay? I tried edge grain and the fine details kept chipping off during the CNC process.
Very much so. End grain is far more forgiving than side/face grain. I don't even attempt fine details in side grain because I know that tear out is a sure thing. Thank you for watching!
Amen from a Derek, (just not that Derek). Beautiful design! my favorite that I've seen. Can I ask how did you create top and bottom part around the B? I have Vcarve Pro, but still learning every day. I would be willing to purchase the template from you as well. I want to use this for family Christmas presents. Thanks for taking time to make content for the 99.9% of us!
Not all Derek's are created equal! ;) I bought the design off of Etsy. Go to Etsy and do a search for "Split Monogram SVGs" and you'll come up with dozens of bundles with various designs that are really very cheap! I hope that this helps, and thank you so much for watching!
For years my wife has made beautiful quilts on a computerized sewing machine and it bothers her when people criticize her saying the machine does the work. I get my CNC machine and start churning out beautiful work that people love and her comment to them is: “He’s not really doing the work, the machine does all the cutting”. 😂 REALLY?
So, sounds like she's blaming you brother for all their coments.
What brand is your cnc machine? Could you do a voice over talking about your cnc? Thanks
I have a Onefinity Journeyman, upgraded with a Masso Controller. If you are interested in my setup, check out the very first video on my channel where I explain my machine and the upgrade. Again, thank you for watching!
Do you have a sketch or drawing of how to make the positive and negative part? how much does one part need to fit into the other etc...
The positive and negative part drawings are created in CAD software and then toolpaths are created from that, and they tell the machine where and how to cut. There is no simple answer to explain how the inlays fit into the pockets, or as you say the negative fitting into the positive. Both the positive and negative parts are cut using an angled bit, so that when they both fit together the angled parts seat together to close up any gaps. I know this isn't the best answer to give you, but a more detailed answer would require me to type out a lengthy tutorial and this comment section isn't the place to do that. My next 2 videos will be solely about how to create and cut inlays like this, so hopefully your questions will be answered then. I hope to have the first video uploaded in the next couple of weeks.
@@MandSWoodworks OK thank you
@@MandSWoodworks OK thank you
What kind of bit is this in the video. The long pointy one. What angle is that
The bit I used in this video isn't available anymore on Amazon, but here's one exactly like it. amzn.to/3wvExsg Thank you for watching!
Amazing work! Super clean! I'm on the path to figure this out on my CNC as well but I'm not quite there. I actually have the same exact tapered bit you're using there but I feel like I must be missing something in how I entered its details in vcarve. Would you be willing to share how you entered the details of that bit in there?
In Vectric you must specify the bit as an engraving bit. Thank you for the kind words!!
@@MandSWoodworks thanks for taking the time to reply! I am entering it as an engraving bit but things still don't fit far enough down for whatever reason. What did you use for "Flat Diameter" value in the bit settings in vcarve? I feel like that's my missing piece of the puzzle for some reason...
There could be several reasons why the inlay isn't fitting correctly. One thing that most folks get wrong is that they aren't using a Vcarve/Engraving toolpath in Vectric. They try and use these numbers in the Inlay Toolpath and they will ALWAYS fail! Make sure you are using a Vcarve/Engraving Toolpath. Other issues that will cause you problems is if your machine is not calibrated properly. When you ask the X, Y, or Z axis to move 1 inch, is it moving EXACTLY 1 inch? If any of your axis are off by several thousandths of an inch, this will cause you issues. Also, is your machine square? Meaning are both your Y rails on the Y axis perfectly parallel with each other? If they are skewed, this can cause issues. And lastly, are you sure you have the correct bit measurements entered into your Tool database? Here are my bit settings for the Jerray 5.15 degree bit. Units = mm Diameter = 6mm Side Angle = 5.15 degrees No. of flutes - 2 Pass Depth = 3.175mm Stepover = 90% Clearance Stepover = 90% Feed Rate = 30ipm Plunge Rate = 20ipm There are about a half dozen more things that could be wrong, such as the vectors you are using to create your toolpath, but that is way too in-depth to type out in the comment section here. This comment is gonna be long enough! :) Now, to answer your question about the flat depth: The flat depth of the inlay/male toolpath has nothing to do with the depth that the inlay/male cut goes into the pocket/female cut. Your start depth determines that. (***The following numbers are just for easy explaining. They won't necessarily work for you***) For instance, if you were aiming to have a zero glue gap, you could cut your pocket at a 0.0" start depth and a .25" flat depth. Then you would set your inlay toolpath to cut at a .25" start depth to match the pocket. The flat depth setting in the inlay/male toolpath determines how much will stick up above the pocket once you have inserted the inlay into the pocket. Make sense? If you are new to inlays, I would steer away from trying to match the inlay depth to the pocket depth until you get the hang of it. Try cutting the female pocket at 0.0" Start depth and .25" flat depth Set your inlay/male cut to .20" Start Depth and something like a 0.05" or even a .1" flat depth. It's difficult to give 1 definitive solution since there are several variables that must be in line when using such a narrow angled bit like the 5 degree. Another suggestion is to maybe back up to say a 30 degree bit with those settings and it will be more forgiving. Meanwhile, experiment with different start depths on the Inlay cut to determine what is right for how you have your machine setup. I do plan on making a video in the future with in-depth explanations of everything to help folks understand the math behind it all. I hope that this helps.
@@MandSWoodworks I cannot believe you took all this time from your day to respond to my question. I seriously appreciate that! Super helpful information. Thank you again! For the bit, you enter it as an engraving bit, right? What did you put in for flat diameter in the bit settings in the tool database?
Sorry for just now responding. KZhead notifies me on a first comment, but not for replies. I accidentally found your question by chance. Yes, enter as an engraving bit. You should put whatever the Tip Radius is for the Flat Diameter. My bit has a 0.25mm Tip Radius so I entered 0.25mm as the Flat Diameter. 🙂