DOD / AFM Delete Gone WRONG Part 2. Getting a New Engine - Chevy Silverado 5.3L
In this video we show our findings and answer to the terrible noises that our 5.3L L83 has been making after the AFM DOD Delete. Turns out, we didn't do anything wrong! Instead we were sent the wrong heads. FYI, heads for a 6.2L will not fit on your 5.3L motor. The valves will hit the cylinders and pistons.
Luckily GPI is helping us out big time so make sure to check out the next video for updates!
👉🏼 LINKS TO PURCHASE TOOLS & PARTS FEATURED BELOW👈🏼
#GPIPerformance #DODDelete #AFMDelete
⚠️Try anything shown in this video at your own risk ⚠️
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Associated Videos - AFM DOD Delete Series
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Part 1 - Baseline Dyno: • AFM Delete Part 1 - Wh...
Part 2 - What Parts Do You Need • AFM DOD Delete Part 2 ...
Part 3 - Engine Removal: • AFM DOD Delete Part 3 ...
Part 4 - Engine TearDown: • AFM DOD Delete Part 4 ...
Part 5 - Installing New Parts: • AFM DOD Delete Part 5 ...
5A - Cam Phaser Install: • AFM DOD Delete - How t...
5B - Trunnion Upgrade: • How To Upgrade GM Trun...
5C - Lashing HP Fuel Pump: • How To Properly Lash H...
5D - Injector Seals • High Pressure Fuel Inj...
Part 6 - Reinstalling Engine: • AFM DOD Delete Part 6 ...
Part 7 - Tuning and Dyno Run:
Part 8 - Installing Intake Manifold, TB, Air Intake, & Driveshaft:
8A: AIRAID Intake: • Silverado 6.2 AIRAID I...
8B: 6.2 Intake Manifold and TB: • 6.2 Intake Manifold an...
8C: Drive Shaft: • Video
Part 9 - Tuning and Final Dyno Run:
Epilogue AFM/Delete Gone Wrong :
Terrible Noises: • Terrible Engine Noises...
Time for a New Motor: • DOD / AFM Delete Gone ...
GPI Saves the Day: • AFM Delete GONE WRONG ...
Lessons Learned: • AFM Delete GONE WRONG ...
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🔩Parts (Affiliate Links)
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For the parts needed to delete AFM and add some more power, check out part 2 of this video series: • AFM DOD Delete Part 2 ...
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Tools (Affiliate Links)
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🎬 Recording equipment (Affiliate Links)
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📷 Video
Canon EOS 80D Digital SLR: amzn.to/2omC7VG'
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Thank you to all of our fans and subscribers for supporting us on our journey!
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Appreciate the honesty, things like this are very helpful for the community. Never would of thought the heads would be wrong, but it is a good lesson to all to always veryfy not just part numbers, but measurements and comparisons to original parts. I have yet to make such modifications to my 2014 L83 Silverado, but watching others is both great for tricks n tips, as well as inspiration. Thanks for sharing
Glad to help! Definitely a lesson learned for sure and hope it prevents someone else from having a similar issue!
The suspense of what happens next is killing me! I’m definitely subscribing. GPI has amazing customer service. I’m sure they will make it up to you
The next video is almost done. Update will be up soon!
So glad you got to the bottom of it! There will be tears of joy when this thing is together lol
Lol you and me both man! Can't wait
Thanks for this update. Using your vids to help me along with my L83 getting a Stage 1 cam kit, DOD/AFM delete, etc. Actually reassembling this weekend. Great vids, and you sharing is much appreciated!
No problem! Glad the video series has helped you!
Hey bud let me know how it runs after ? I have a stage 3 cam dod delete kit coming for my L83 with stall converter.
Runs good! Having a coolant issue haven't been able to track down but it runs well. We will have an update video out soon
How's it running ?
Dude you have my kind of luck. As soon as you showed a picture of the valve hitting the cylinder wall I knew exactly what had happened. Sooooo much work. I would be so mad. 🤬
Thank You guys for putting this series together!!!
Absolutely. Hope it helps you out!
That's an unfortunate result but glad you found the problem. Still by far the most in-depth how-to videos on this topic and actually helped me out a ton with doing the same GPI delete (minus ported heads) on my 14 Silverado. Keep up the great work
Definitely a bummer but still very glad we got the series put together. Excited to have my truck back soon! New parts are on there way
Wow!! I've been following along with this build, I only thought this kind of stuff happens to me!! Love your videos!
Thanks for watching along man! Haha sadly it happens to the rest of us too.
Very sorry to hear of the issue and trouble. Hopefully the supplier will go good for it. All the best.
Thanks man! Much appreciated. They are helping us out. We will have an update on a couple of weeks
Great videos! Love the channel! Keep up the good work. One of the best car channels on KZhead.
Thanks man!
WE ARE NOTHING WITHOUT INCREDIBLE VIEWERS LIKE YOU 😭😍
@@Brutepaintballer haha thanks. you guys are in my weekend routine! every saturday (lol I know) I watch all the new vids I haven't seen since the last week.
Love it 😊
Thanks for the honest post. This helps a lot. You got a new subscriber for this one!
Tough break.. mistakes happen and good thing GPI is a good company. I will be ordering a cam/delete and drop in pistons/rods from them very soon!
For sure and very true! Couldn't be happier with the customer service I've experienced with them
At 5:16 it actually looks like torch marks on that 6.2l head where it was blowing past the head gasket and so forth. That's too bad all this hard work you guys put into this project ends up costing you an entire engine because of head differences. Thanks for putting this video out and looking forward to your next video.
Yeah, really a bummer knowing my truck could have been up and running if it had just been the right part :(
Love your videos sorry for the bad news at least it's a good Learning lesson hopefully it works out well you get that Kick-Ass truck running again
Appreciate that! thank you!
Love the honesty of your video and it was very helpful.
Glad to help! No point in hiding the mistakes. We are all here to learn together!
Awesome video,,,, sorry about the bad news but thank you for posting this for all of us so if there's anything to learn please eveyone not only check part numbers but this kind of damage could be prevented by just taking a few extra minutes to measure things and be sure the parts are right ,hey everyone makes mistakes and things like those heads are so similar its really hard to tell the difference, cant wait to see this back together and on the road again👍👍
Appreciate that and very good points! I hope it helps others prevent mistakes in the future! I've learned my lesson for sure.
Really glad i kept watching the series
Glad you have been enjoying it!
I did my own tune on my 2017 with HP tuners and several neighbors' trucks in my area. There are a lot of bad tuners out there so please use a very very reputable shop/person when tuning your truck. The Gen V LT engines OS are so different than anything else. Glad to see that company did you right and made up for their mistake. Shid happens but attitude and gratitude is what makes it all good. Thanks for sharing these awesome videos and your experiences.
Appreciate that input. That always makes me nervois. I'm planning to have GPI tune the truck but if you have any suggestions from your experience definitely let me know
@@TheSundaeDrive kzhead.info/tools/P_LcnBKwJqJOiGoCRT5SCw.html
@@TheSundaeDrive Tuning an engine is on ongoing thing, not just an hour or 2 on the dyno. So many parameters, so many variables such as outside temps and weather. My advice is ask lots of questions. There isn't a lot of people who can tune a Gen V correctly. The link to Goat Rope garage channel is all the suggestions that I could ever give in one sentence.
That’s our biggest fear with the C7. We’re probably going to cam it among some other things and have trust issues with tuners so Pete is motivated to dive into the world of tuning for the LT1 and be as meticulous as possible. Too many wannabe tuners out there
@@TheSundaeDrive Data logging and more data logging while you drive is your best friend. Always keep an eye on A/F ratios, spark timing, torque management, power enrichment etc. Motivation and patience is all you need and it's very rewarding when you get it all figured out and can pay dividends when friends, neighbors and family need tuning too!
Wow . Document part numbers. Assume definitely makes an Ass out of you and me. Love your honesty. Thanks. Very helpful.
Yup we should have known better than to assume it was the correct part 😓
Your definitely a whollllle lot calmer than most people would be after making this video 😂
lol it was an experience
This video actually gives me a lot of hope because I was sitting here thinking that even if I were to get an AFM/DFM disabler for a 6.2 v8, considering that I'm thinking about getting a 2022 silverado for my next vehicle purchase, that I would still have lifter failure. Sucks that this happened of course but at least it was an issue with the wrong parts being sent and not an internal design flaw with the engine itself.
Agreed! Since I got all the correct parts, I'm at about 11K miles with 0 issues.
My mechanic is doing the same for my Yukon , thank you for sharing your experience and I will ask my mechanic to double confirm heads P/N
Glad to help! Always double check lol
I guess this is a lesson learned about blind trust and verification on heads. We are all prone to make mistakes and I guess the old saying trust no one would of applied here. I’ve certainly have learned from this video. Thanks
Yeah, gotta trust by verify for sure.
This is the video the made me a subscribe, your honesty. Good job sir
I appreciate that! Welcome aboard!
Good honest guy thanks for the tip !
No problem! 👍
Interesting video. Appreciate the info. I suffered a debilitating problem that has put a damper on the ability to do major engine work and repairs. Looks like I may have to hire out AFM deletes and such.
It's a lot of work for sure.
Holly cow man I hate that for ya at least you have the knowledge to fix it I’m doing mine this weekend AMS racing DOD/AFM delete kit comes with a Diablo tuner too
I'd be scraping the top of my head off the ceiling. Thanks for the info 👍
You and me both!
Thanks for the lesson!
It was a painful one but glad it is helping others
Good update, Now this is a great time to do a whole series on buying a used L86. Get it upgraded and swap it out! :)
Indeed it is, although our original mission was to see how much power the L83 would make with the cam + heads + ported intake manifold 😂 now we’re just conflicted
Well, that sucks as far as all of the extra work you have to do again. At least the company is taking care of you.
Appreciate that. Yes, very thankful they are
Gpi,owes u a new engine 💯
That sucks and looks expensive. My 2015 6.2 Silverado at 117k just collapsed. I'm old school have built countless engines, but never a LS or LT, so my first go around is coming. GM wants 4k bucks to redo the bad side, they will not put a regular cam and lifters in, I refuse to go back to AFM. So I'm doing the delete myself. I'm watching every video I can, a crash course. Kinda nervous, but confident I can make it better than stock for a lot less cash. Thanks for posting this, going to check out your earlier work also. 👍👍
I did the delete/ cam swap on my truck , by following all ur videos and steps seriously my 1st time ever doing a cam swap and till this day it’s running good ! I have a video on my KZhead it’s a Texas speed stage 2 Good luck ! Hope you get that truck up and running!
Glad the series helped! We knew people were already following our guide and having a lot of success which was rewarding but also frustrating because mine wasn't working 😂😂
Hey man can u help me out...i hAve a 2012 chevy tahoe one of my lifters is knocking can i swap it out to something called delete valley metal..
If they made good on parts, threw ya a few a few shirts and learned something... it's all good! Amazing what old school guys can do! Hopefully ya got their prototype "whipass" version before anyone else!
If you’re in the Atlanta area. I disable the dod feature Monday thru Friday.
Coming from a bitter Ex technician I can say I am not surprised with what you found. I started working on vehicles in the mid 80s and I quickly learned the definition of NEW is NEVER EVER WORKS!!! Being paid commission every single problem that came up while working on a customers vehicle cost me money and time and made me look bad even though just like you on the surface it seemed I had done everything right. Like installing a brand new OEM GM water pump, go to fill the cooling system to have it piss coolant all over the floor from a rolled factory installed seal!! I could have found that issue by looking over the water pump better or pouring a little water in the housing before installing. As time went by this type of problem kept creeping up making my life miserable it got so bad I did not trust any part it seemed I had to test, check and double check everything yet would still get bit. I got a set of aluminum SMC heads from Mad dog racing I looked them over I thought pretty good, bolted them on then went to install the push rods and rocker arms to get shut down because poor quality control allowed heads to get sent to me with the push rod slots that were never machined properly to the point where I couldn't even fit my push rods in!! I can tell you if I had gone through all the work, time and money that you did with this job I would have went full on A-hole, destroyed the truck burnt it to the ground and probably the shop and all my tools in the process. My hats off to you for keeping calm, staying reasonable and working with the vendor.
Yeah man, it is a shame that quality control is what it is today. I have had brand new parts not work on customer cars and it is very frustrating when you have to explain to the customer that they are going to bed to come back or wait for a new part. We do a lot of flat rate jobs which are great when it goes smoothly but stinks when it doesn't do to a part issue
GPI really took care of me tho. Can't believe how much they helped me out so that helped keep me calm lol
Thats great that a company 😀 takes care of there customers great job GPI for backing up your products and man I would have done the same due to tge parts are coming from well known company u don't think about can't wait to see the new build maybe some boost
Definitely planning out future mods! And yes, very thankful they are taking care of me. Very few companies that would do that
Great videos! I have a question, when taking the original engine apart did you notice any excessive Carbon build up on the intake valves from the direct injection?
Glad you are enjoying them! I did not but I've also been running a catch can for the last 60K miles or so (108K miles total)
The Sundae Drive I believe if I’m not mistaken after 2016+ GM revised the intake and PVC system. I put a catch can on my old 6.0 LY6 with 541,000+ miles then took it off after a couple days, as being so used of the truck I felt the engine wasn’t running optimally and vacuum had lowered. In a sense/ to put it another way, sort of like a normal size straw on a drink being lengthen to 4 times it’s length it takes more vacuum to pull up the liquid as gravity and the weight of the liquid itself wanting to go back in the cup. The straw representing the extra hose and length required for the catch can. Vacuum is essential for helping seal, and keep in place front and rear main seals. I honestly believe manufactures do not put catch cans for a reason. Otherwise it would be simple to write it off as a maintenance item like oil filters, fuel filters, air filters etc... My option is that of, if a catch can was essential on a stock engine the factory would put it, as there’s too much on the line. Heck a Hellcat doesn’t even have one. I know the Silverados had AFM issues but, I believe people aren’t fully aware of the updates/upgrades in 2016 to the AFM Solenoids and updated AC Delco Dexos 1 GEN 2 oil specifically formulated for AFM issues. I personally know 4 people with 2016-2018 Silverados with 200,000+ mile with no AFM issues and they aren’t using the new formulated oil. Now they all had injector issues and replaced but, I personally believe and pretty much know they’re not running Top-Tier quality fuels such as Chevron, Exxon, Shell etc... Anyhow, just thought I’d share some insight. I can go on and on and on, on anything Automobile related. Also, I’ll tell you something you may not know but, will appreciate because you’ll know what I’m talking about. The best oil filter for these engines are Ac Delco, there’s better filtering filters out there but you sacrifice flow for filtration big time. Essentially putting a strain on the oil pump in 3 ways with a ‘ high end ‘ oil filter. 1) The filter media and or ‘ more ‘ pleats are more restrictive depending on what filter is in comparison to an Ac Delco ‘ E’ filter 2)The outlet, ( inside the center of the oil filter ) on high end filters have much smaller diameter openings on the center tube compared to the bigger openings on the plastic center tube on the AC Delco 46E filters. 3)The spring for the bypass valve is too strong on high end filters, meaning when the filter is semi clogged along with trying to push oil through the more restrictive smaller outlet, the oil pump then instead of pushing down a ( thin leaf weaker valve spring like on the Ac Delco filter ) must now push down on a stronger coil spring found on all high end filters.
Hey man love the videos, I’m wondering if there’s a manual that guides you through all this that I could look atop something that you would recommend?
Thanks! Glad you have been enjoying them. We linked to a Corvette dod delete guide in the description that was pretty helpful to us.
Totally saw that flaw in the head thread it was the video when reassembly happened
I'll have to go back and look!
Curious.. There is the manual way to not use the AFM. I think it is M5, but needs to be done everytime the truck is fired up. Is this the reason you were wanting to delere/disable? The pain of doing it everytime you get in the truck. Thanks.
You video was great the first time well done sorry it didn't work out but shit happens
If there is one thing I learned in all the years of working on cars after market is not always the hot setup. Hope the pay for a new short block.
They helped us out thankfully! Always need to double check for sure. These were OEM ported heads.
That's a big difference from 5.3 to 6.2. It should be on them. You're lucky to have video.
Yeah, I think the videos helped a lot
What a great opportunity to put a 6.2 in your truck 👍
Very true!
Note: GPI's HR team needs to regularly drug test fulfillment department, and/or management needs to significantly improve parts validation prior to disposition of inventory to the outbound dock.
They did end up making it right so even tho it was a huge pain they took care of me and that's way more than most companies would do
The reason I was asking about the heads is because I have worked on motorcycle engines for years and when you bore the cylinders is can cause problems without head matching to your new bores, ie: as in raising your compression ratio and or causing hot spots or even head gasket failure, especially on turbo or supercharged applications. Just like it can be a problem if the opposite, ie: larger combustion chambers than bore size.
But yeah, definitely want the right head for the block, either way is bad lol
great video. Nothing better than being able to trace everything back so well. Damn shame though! I bet you’ll measure every head and cylinder in the future now though, I know I sure will! Great feeling too when u finally find the problem and it wasn’t your fault. Makes having to do an engine swap a much more enjoyable experience IMO lol How many miles did you get in it with the 6.0 head?
Lol agreed, would have been nicer if it didn't happen. I honestly forget, not more that 1/4 mile at most. It was still running ok somehow lol
⁵⁵⁵⁵55þc❤😂ć😢😢
Thanks awesome info
I just ordered 12620214 heads for my truck 5.3 how would I check to make sure it’s not a 6.2 and is in fact 5.3 ? Does 6.2 have different number or is it the same ?
And this is why I'll be using Texas Speed when I do mine.
They made it right tho. Not sure how many companies would have done that
On my 2012 checy tahoe...my one of my lifters are knocking can i swap it out to a delete valley metal
I watched the video where you had all the new parts on a table. I did notice you had the 6.2 l intake w/ rectangle ports. Did original heads have that? Guess I'll try to go back and see.
I'll have to go back and look at well. Good eye tho
Wow. Sucks to be you. Good luck with getting an engine from the machine shop.
It was a fun experience - new engine in and up and running with over 20K miles on it :) no issues
GPI: "WHOOPSIE POOPSIE" 🤷♂️
Question fer ya! Once I disable the AFM should I replace the AFM style lifters with regular lifters. If so what lifter assembly would you recommend. Cam replacement as well?
So if you are just tuning out afm with a range device or something similar, you should not change the lifters. Only change the lifters with a new cam. You will also need several other parts and you will need a tune for that new camshaft and lifters from a custom tuner.
So sorry that happened.
Appreciate that! Just glad we identified the issue so I can get it fixed now!
Yea, unfortnately a consumer can't trust anyone from any company to do their job correctly. Great find.
They did make it right getting me a new motor thankfully
Did this engine come with dome tops?
I didn't get my cam tight enough and snapped the down. It made ptv contact and spun a lifter messed up my cam. Have a new one on the way. Guess we're learning the hard way lol but hey stuff happens.
Mistakes that we will never make again I’m sure (hopefully)
If they sent you the wrong heads and it damaged your motor, they owe you not just new heads but a motor. The the minimum, I'll expect them to rebuild your motor at their expense. A new crate motor will be preferable and more expedient. They can have your motor back as a core.
Dont know if i missed it or what, but do you have to change the heads on this delete? Just wanted new heads or can you re use the old heads and just replace lifters/valves? Thanks for the vids and info. Looking into doing this on my 08 sierra with 5.3
You can reuse your old heads. I was just looking for more power while I was already in there.
@@TheSundaeDrive thanks! Im just looking to delete the afm and hopefully keep the truck running for a long time and keep it stock or factory.
Sounds like a good plan to me! The guys at gpi can help you spec everything out!
You got me confused if there is that much difference you will not be able to put them together all the screw will not work that mean the engine size totally different guess what? I put the VLOM on the Yukon denali and it comes on both engine on 5.3 & 6.2 all the screw worked perfectly.
Doesn’t the 6.2L heads have a different valve arrangement than the 5.3L ? The 5.3 e I I eerie e. We’re the the 6.2 is eieieiei ?
Well that sucks !!! Yes young jet-eye... measure twice Torque once .✌️
Agreed!
Lesson learned for sure!
Now will they compensate you because you installed the heads without verifying it was the correct part?
so were the heads for a 427 that you put on your motor? The combustion chambers were larger than your bore?
It was for the 6.2 V8 while I have the 5.3, so the valves and diameter of the heads were too large and the valves hit the outside of the cylinder walls.
What did you replace the engine with? I'm dealing with issues myself having to replace the engine in my 2008 tahoe. I'm trying to figure the route to go. Head gasket and no compression i guess the engines a mess inside my mechanic said when he looked in with a camera. Worst luck ever lol no dk what to do.
I used another used 5.3L with fewer miles.
I just did the afm disabled through obd port. Not go this route on my daily for this reason.
Easier and less likely to fail if you caught it early. Still can and likely will fail in the long term tho. The issue in our video was due to a wrong part but the delete itself tho
Where did you get those torque specs for the head that could’ve gave you a sign that they were something was wrong
I used the torque specs for the l83 heads straight from gm. So unfortunately that wasn't a help. Should have just flipped the heads over lol. Lesson learned.
I'm really sorry for that extremely Big and Hard working Job Buddy, All U was need to try RANGE device And next very, very important::: " each oil change)= very expensive fully synthetic Oil, Bottle Lucas synthetic Lube , and often Oil change, not longer then 3,500 k miles , Lifter will last till engine makes 350.000 miles
I own the same truck. Today it a lifter started to tick at idle on and off how ever it has 220231 miles on it. Trying to decide on new motor or delete kit?
I would go for the delete and swap out some of the other parts like the running chain, coil packs, plug wires, all new gaskets etc. It will practically be a new motor as long as you treated it well with good oil and regularly oil changes
So in other words, you're going to sleeve and bore the motor out to 102mm now? :D
Lol maybe 😜
I VOTE YES
This why I don’t mess around with these mod’s people recommend on KZhead. Leave it factory and spend your money on maintenance using factory parts. Don’t modify it and leave it stock. All I did was put the deal on mine when new that keeps it running in V8 only. It plugs into port and can be removed at anytime without being permanent or modifying anything. Works perfectly and it always stays in V8 mode so I don’t have to worry about lubrication to valve train
These were all factory OEM parts (except for the cam shaft of course) everything are GM parts. Was just sent the wrong ones. And definitely recommend using a range device but many have still reported the failure running the plugins sadly.
Can you deleted with hptunes ?
Finally found this .....dam
I just did the AFM delete with RAGE Technology ....not spending lot of money 💰with doing all this process...good luck 👍
Might help prolong the life of the afm system but doesn't replace the lifters that fail unfortunately. Hope it works out for you tho 👍👍
You didn't do an AFM delete. You simply plugged in a device that does a DISABLE AFM command to the Computer, everytime the vehicle starts.
Wow wrong parts always hurt
I'm curious how he clearance issue wasn't discovered before first start up? I always rotate the engine at every stage. Add a part rotate just to make sure. That way if you run into an issue you don't have to dig far for the culprit. I'm not trying to play holier than thou or anything, it just seems like an odd thing to overlook. Tough luck on the engine though. It always sucks to finish a build and have disaster strike. Hope the rebuild goes well man.
I did rotate it by hand many times before putting it in but it wasn't fast enough to hear the issue and there surprisingly wasn't much resistance :(
@@TheSundaeDrive Might have been just close enough that there was no interference until the lifters fully primed. Just curious. I work on these often, This is something I'll have to keep an eye out for. Just in case. Thanks for sharing man. You wouldn't believe how much youtube has expanded my knowledge base. It's a community service you guys are doing. I really appreciate the work you put into it.
Glad it is helping man! Hopefully you never run into this issue!
@@TheSundaeDrive knock on wood lol. Hope your rebuild goes smooth.
Thanks! It is in progress
What about using a Range instead of taking the engine apart and replacing the cam and lifters etc.? Is the Range not a viable solution? I have been thinking of trying one.
And that is the world we live in today. So many people have taken it upon themselves to think they can build a motor that thousands and thousands of these "performance aftermarket specialist" shops have opened up. Most of this stuff is built cheap, with cheap labor. Hopefully you get some good support from the people you ordered from. On a side note, if you're offended by my opening statements, consider this: ALL engine builders (professional or not) who KNOW what they're doing will ALWAYS gently rotate the crankshaft over after each step in the build. Had that been done, there is no doubt this would have been avoided. He learned the hard way that you CANNOT trust anyone to be competent these days, and you had better learn to check and double check everything.
So the only 6.2 parts that you had on that engine was the intake and the throttle body? The 6.2 heads were a mistake?
Correct. I ordered 5.3 heads and they sent us 6.2 heads which we didn't realize until too late with how similar they look.
My trk was exactly like yours and same year .Had 99 thou for miles.Dealer gave me 22 thou for a trade in on a 2020 SILVERADO. Love the new trks Alot better.
I like the new ones a lot. I'll eventually get one but sticking with this one for now
Pretty good trade in $$$!
Really they owe you a complete new motor and labor for this mess up they did.
While we lost a lot of time in diagnosing and man hours to get the issue resolved, we think GPI did good to us overall so we are thankful for them
So I had a buddy replace the driver side of lifters and pushrods on my 5.3 Silverado, now I'm getting that popping noise when up to temperature. Main question is is it safe to drive? (runs great) or should I get the head gasket looked at asap??? much appreciated.
Watch the video we just published. We have a chapter in there about a backwards head gasket with sound clips. Look in the description of the that video for a link directly to that point (called "more loud noises" I think)
Sounds to me like the head gasket is backwards. Are the temps climbing?
@@TheSundaeDrive That's what I'm thinking, but the temps never climb above normal. but I watched the video and sounded very similar . Is it safe to drive for now? (don't have the money to fix it at the moment)
If the temps aren't climbing, you probably have a backwards head gasket. Look at the the little dimple I highlighted in the video. The drivers side head is very easy to pull. An experienced mechanic can probably do this job in 4 hours to 6 hours. If you used OEM bolts tho, those are single use only unfortunately :( I would not drive the truck long this way. Especially for far distances. You don't want it getting hot and warp anything because the coolant isn't flowing properly. Before you take it apart. Check to make sure it is actually backwards. With that said, the guy that messaged us with this issue drove the truck for 1000 miles. If your buddy did it backwards, kind of on him to fix :(
@@TheSundaeDrive Thanks for the advice and help!
Wow. That is terrible news. Easy mistake to make I think though. I wonder if someone out there will build a crate motor without all this AMF/DOD crap installed and we could swap directly into our GM trucks without going through all the rigmarole....
Hmmm sounds like a good business opportunity for us with a core charge 🤔
That’s really bad that they didn’t pay attention to part numbers.
Do you know where I can send my ecu to be tuned and sent back ?
You should not need to remove it from the vehicle. They can remotely tune it. Which car/truck do you have?
@@TheSundaeDrive I have a 2016 Silverado 5.3 I’m almost gettin ready to install the motor but I just need to send out the ecu
As you get older stuff like this old real fast. Leave it stock and do maintenance. Messing around with stuff like this with electronic stuff turns into nightmare more often than not.
Definitely pros and cons to both.
It's going to be hard to place blame....seems like a very easy mistake to make.
Definitely as easy mistake. Hopefully it will prevent someone else from running into the same issue!
so, it wasn't the AFM deletion that caused the issue..(as the video header shows)??
Well it happened during the deletion process which is why we said the afm delete went wrong. But if we had gotten the correct parts, there would have been no issue :)
Pro Tip !! When you start a gas engine and it sounds like a diesel. Shut it off ! Do not drive it hoping it will go away !
Lol so true
@@TheSundaeDrive I'm glad you didn't take offense, just busting balls!
Lol it's deserved in this case for sure 🤣😩
@@TheSundaeDrive Humility is a virtue !!
Absolutely, only way to learn!
I have a 2007 GMC Sierra 6.0 motor I have problem with it I get the code p0011 and I had already replace oil pump cam sensor crank sensor DOD play the actuator that goes on the timing cover and nothing that code make my transmission kick I already went through 5 transmission
And cam gear to I replace that to
Anyone know what can it be
Sorry to hear that :( hopefully someone has experienced this issue here and is able to help you out!
The damage wouldn't have happened if you checked valve/piston clearance, which is an elementary and critical part of engine building/assembling. The company shouldn't owe you anything, because you should have known to check, but if they're helping you out, it's because they're a stand-up team!
Agreed for sure. Was not expecting them to help us out. Rookie mistake but luckily they took care of us :)
So this really had nothing to do with AFM delete, but rather the intake valves were .165" too large in diameter. I wonder if you could find a 6.2 liter shortblock to go with those heads.....
We may put them on Pete's Vette if we can get it repaired.
When i buy parts i have to triple check part number and cross references
I installed the Range Solution and now it stays in 4cyl and very happy now..
4cyl mode only? Must be getting great gas mileage :)
@@TheSundaeDrive yes best I got with the 5.3 is 29.2... I also have one that stays in 8cly mode when I pull my camper and I get 12 without camper 22..
Nice!
What does having the wrong heads have to do with afm delete?
Since we opted to upgrade the heads during the DoD delete procedure it seems pretty relevant, but yes, if we kept the stock heads we would not have run into this problem. Before we knew we had the wrong heads we weren’t sure if we messed up the DoD delete, if the new lifters were causing issues, or something else related to the delete
GPI IMO F'ed up big time, they owe you an engine.
They are helping out a lot. Update in the next video 👍👍
Agree but I wouldn't have another one if I'd have to go threw this again besides buy one wit 4 cylinder and one wit 8 cylinder eliminates the AFM or am I missing something here 😂
Wow that’s fucking wild
It was a fun experience to say the least