Exposure compensation for wildlife photography.
Janine explains why you should push your exposure compensation for wildlife photography to instantly achieve better images. Don't just push it a bit. When the time comes........ push it a lot!
Janine dispels some myths surrounding exposure compensation settings and uses illustrated examples to show you why pushing hard to the minus or plus sides of exposure compensation can dramatically improve your wildlife and nature photography images.
About Us:
Pangolin Photo Safaris operates in the Chobe, Northern Botswana throughout the year. In our opinion, The Chobe National Park is the best year-round wildlife photography destination in Africa - and that’s why we are based here. Pangolin Photo Safaris operates in the Chobe, Northern Botswana throughout the year.
All our game activities - on the Chobe River and on land within The Chobe National Park are hosted by the Pangolin Photo Hosts who feature in these films. Whether you are a seasoned professional or absolute beginner, everyone is welcome at Pangolin Photo Safaris.
#wildlifephotography #naturephotography #photographytips
How often do you push the limits of your exposure compensation when photographing?
Pangolin Wildlife Photography I shot a white egret today at 2 1/2 stops below 0....I have to push it down a ton w those and even blue herons as well. Thanks for vid
Hi @Big Bird Fishin' thanks so much for tuning in, I am really glad you enjoyed it! Also pay attention to your metering mode in that respect!!! Soon there is more videos coming out with respect to general metering as well as a specific video on spot metering ... stay tuned
I am generally not using much in the way of exposure compensation for wildlife where I am mostly in Manual mode with Auto-ISO. I'll set my shutter and aperture and let the camera select the ISO. Having said that, exposure compensation in this case applies to the ISO selection. The D850 takes it's exposure readings in Matrix and Spot metering on the selected focusing point and that does a good job of properly exposing the subject. Of course, there are extreme cases (sparkling reflections on rippling water with a dark partially submerged subject, or Ravens in a field of snow) where experience over-rides the meter.
@@jimowens8105 That is an amazing way of shooting. The entire Pangolin Team also prefers Manual with an Automatic ISO. However, that will not safe you from having to change your exposure unfortunately. Auto ISO will simply give you an exposure of zero which will look differently depending on your metering mode. So your Matrix Metering will give you an entirely different result of course than your Spot meter.... I generally suggest to stick with one metering mode to i) safe time ii) start developing a really good feeling how it behaves so that you can then adjust the exposure accordingly. I just finished a video on why I do not prefer spot metering when it comes to wildlife photography... stay tuned if you are curious.
Excellent advice! Your camera's light meter can be your best friend or your worst enemy depending upon how well you understand what it's telling you. One mistake I often see photographers make in the field is failing to take advantage of opportunities to pretest exposure. Here in Maine, for instance, they will sit idle for an hour waiting for a chance to photograph a bald eagle and then blow the shot because their camera exposes for the dark body and blows the highlights of the white head. All the time they were sitting there they were surrounded by herring gulls with white body feathers requiring the same exposure as the eagles white head. I always take 2 or 3 shots of the gulls, varying exposure compensation and then compare histograms. When a bald eagle arrives I am ready and seldom lose a shot to blown highlights. The histogram arguably represents the most empowering tech advancement in photography besides autofocus and yet few wildlife photographers use it to full advantage.
Exposure compensation is only applicable in an auto mode. When shooting in manual the meter makes a suggestion as to what it "thinks" is the correct exposure base on the metering mode set. It is the experience of the photographer and knowledge of what the machine is doing that controls the exposure. When shooting a snow scene adding a couple of stops will render white snow as white, while shooting a dark forest exposing a couple of stops under the recommendation is well.... recommended. The trick here whether in manual or in automatic is the know better that the dumb machine and make the exposure.
Hi Jim, thanks for tuning in today and your great feedback. You are correct to some extend. Yes on a semi-automatic mode you can simply fix your exposure and the automated setting will make sure you achieve it. On full manual the camera gives you a light reading of how much light you are actually letting in based on the settings you have chosen. You can still adjust the exposure by adjusting these settings until your light meter reading gives you the desired result. On my 5Dmkiii I am shooting full manual and I am using the ISO to dial my exposure to the desired level after choosing the shutter and aperture respectively. However in any case the metering mode heavily effects your light meter. Soon there is more videos coming out with respect to general metering as well as a specific video on spot metering ... stay tuned
@@janine-pangolinphotohost9722 Thank you for this response. With the ubiquitous PASM modes and AUTO-ISO something simple like the exposure triangle can become dauntingly complex. Add to this metering modes and (lord save us) fill-flash or filters, and it is small wonder so many people just use their phones or go mirrorless. We are on the same page with settings if not the camera brand. My camera is usually on manual and AUTO-ISO limited to 6400. Metering is matrix with a function button set to switch to spot metering. Focus modes are another entire subject in itself, and I hope you will cover at some point. All the very best to you and the entire team. Fabulous content in a dream location!
Janine ,you remain geniune. Precisely explained.
Very well explained. One thing to consider also it what metering mode you are using will also effect the level of exposure compensation you require. For example if you are using centre weighted or spot metering and your subject is in the centre of the image then you are less likely to have to use exposure compensation. However if using evaluated metering then you may have to compensate more for the subject depending on what is surrounding it. Great video thanks for sharing. Cheers Keith
Hi, thanks so much for the feedback and tuning in.... I am glad you enjoyed the video! I did blend in the metering mode at the beginning of the video but am also busy editing another video that goes more in depth about spot metering and it's affect on your exposure in turn......
Nice video, thanks.
That is one reason I switched to a mirrorless camera. I can see the actual shot in real time and dial in exposure compensation very accurately.
HI Alan, yes it is a really cool feature that helps especially when you start out with photography. Eventually, you start developing a good feeling even with a DSLR but it takes a lot more time. Regardless, you still need to learn how to adjust it quickly....
That's partway right Alan, what you see is what you get - but only to an extent. If your monitor is too bright in the viewfinder or on the LCD screen, that could skew your rational of adjusting exposure via the compensation dial. Usually darker LCD and viewfinder is closer to the real thing and once you hone in the proper screen brightness then you bet, what you see is what you get! (Or at least very close!)
@@ineedlulz For sure. But also, at least on Sonys, there's a setting called "Live View Display - Setting ON/OFF" and using zebras as an exposure aid, you'd know immediately where you're clipping or whatever IRE value you set your zebras to. So this would keep you from relying on just your eyes, how ambient light is affecting your eyes, and the brightness of your EVF. Can't wait for False Color being introduced into DSLRs which will make things even easier.
Great advice especially "don't get fixated"
Hi Kevin, thanks so much for tuning in... I am glad you enjoyed the video!
@@janine-pangolinphotohost9722 how is it different from High Dynamic Range Photography
That just spinning the wheel in the right direction helps is a great practical tip!! Thank you very much 😊👍🏼
fantastic explanation!
Anyone planning a photo safari should review your videos. They are all good. I might have obtained even better results back in 2008 had I been able to get this kind of advice. You can’t imagine how much I would like to revisit Chobe!
Special place, thank you Edward. We appreciate the great reviews. Lots more great content still to come...
Best explanation on the subject of exposure compensation I’ve seen. I was surprised when experienced people told me they never use exposure compensation. Now I know why. Thanks Janine!
A 70-year-old man here. Lucky for me I was born with a camera in one hand and motorcycle in the other. I shoot with G-9, D-800, and a Lumix LX 100-MLL. For me when in dought or in a tricky situation I use 5 or 9 frame setting in auto bracket exposure mode, with shutter speeds 1,000 or above. This and other custom settings is applied and saved to a Fn button for quick and easy access. Grins
Thanks Janine. Cute little rig you have with you. Stable yet flexible.
The photographic gimbals for our guest are really really helpful especially when guest come with longer and heavier gear!
Excellent. I really enjoy your videos. 👍🏻😃
Hi Gary... thanks so much for tuning in, I am really glad you enjoyed it! Also pay attention to your metering mode in that respect!!! Soon there is more videos coming out with respect to general metering as well as a specific video on spot metering ... stay tuned
Janine - Pangolin Photo Host Hi. I have shared your video with friends. We all agreed your videos and easy to understand and apply the knowledge. Many Thanks.
I rarely use the exposure compensation dial. Not that I do not compensate, but I rarely use the compensation dial for it. I simply change the exposure, either with the aperture, or the exposure time. The other thing I rarely do, is change the exposure due to the colour of the subject. I do not enjoy seeing grey-coloured, white herons & swans, (unless it is a grey heron/swan, of course 😉 ). I also do not like seeing grey-coloured, black panthers, and swans. (The first swan which I had ever seen in real life, was a black swan at Hope Gardens, in Kingston, Jamaica). That is, I would have allowed a small bit of the white heron or swan to remain near blow-out, and a small bit of a black panther, or swan to be near crushed. I remember at one B&W competition I attended, one of the judges mentioned that it seemed less of a B&W competition, and more of a grey competition; most images lacked any blacks or whites. Some things in life are black, and others are indeed white. (I personally thought that the penultimate shot of the heron was better exposed than your final image. I found the final image too brown/grey for my liking). This, however, totally depends on what precisely is the subject of the image. For some, they are indeed attempting to take images of plumage, or fur. In such a case, one cannot blow-out any highlights, nor crush any shadows. In such a case, your final image of the heron was better; the details on the feather was visible. My general rule is, do not concern oneself with how much light is in the scene, nor the colour of the subject. Instead, think about the sunny sixteen rule, (adjusted, of course, for any requirements regarding motion blur or DoF), and apply it based on whether the subject is in direct sunlight, or shadow, (or anything in-between, or beyond). This takes a little thought, as a bird flying in the sky, on a sunny day, does NOT necessarily put one's subject ‘in direct sunlight’, especially if the sun is behind the subject, and one is photographing the shaded side. In general, I start by metering for bright sun, (or the brightest area of the scene, sans sky/snow/sand), setting my aperture and exposure time for appropriate motion blur/Dof for the subjects at hand, then dial up more exposure (with longer exposure times, or wider apertures, as appropriate), when needed, should the subject not be in the bright area, at the time. On the other hand, I do not mind an under-exposed image which I push process in the electronic darkroom. I.e., I shoot at my given settings, according to motion blur/DoF choices, at base sensitivity, then over-develop in computer processing, rather than have the camera apply fixes based on a given exposure index. This is because, whether I do it, or the camera does it, the subject will get under-exposed, (loosing shadow detail, already), the image will get over-developed, and noise reduction algorithms will be applied, (along with colour corrections, et al); but if I do it, I get to control the ratio of noise in the shadows, versus details lost in the highlights, (and other compromises), to suit the story which I am trying to tell. Yes, it is more work, but great images always takes work, and patience.
Hi and thanks for tuning into my video and your great feedback. Using your aperture and shutter speed is basically the way to change your exposure when shooting on full manual. If you are on a semi manual setting it will make sure that your exposure is always zero. ... I totally agree that a lot of black and white images are way too grey for my liking as well. So it really depends on the subject matter. However, I do feel out there one must double check the light on the subject which the sunny sixteen rule does as well ... just in a different way. So we won't get around doing it.... I am just trying to teach my guest that we need to find a fast way as we don't have much time for metering and considering settings. Our judgement basically needs to based on experience more than our current meter as things happen fast out there....
I'm another of the mirrorless camera users crowd. :) Depending on the subject I will also take advantage of the spot metering that follows the focus point and rapidly change exposure compensation if needed.
Hi, thanks so much for the feedback and tuning in.... I am glad you enjoyed the video! I did blend in the metering mode at the beginning of the video but am also busy editing another video that goes more in depth about spot metering and it's affect on your exposure in turn...... However, the instant feedback of the mirrorless is really really cool. It doesn't safe you from learning how to adjust it quickly though...
Nice video ! Thank you ! I have been a person that just does not use it. But now you have me thinking about it... will play with it!
Hi Gary, thanks so much for tuning in. Especially if you are on evaluative metering / matrix or even on center weighted metering it will make such a difference to your photography. Try it out and let me know how it works!
Thank you 😊 Love all your shares 🇨🇦
Hi Michelle... thanks so much for tuning in, I am really glad you enjoyed it!
brilliant, thank you!!
Most useful tips with EV… I never thought about it like that. Thank you so much. Appreciate it! Namaste.
Another great video Janine.
Thank you.
Hi Richard... thanks so much for tuning in, I am really glad you enjoyed it! Also pay attention to your metering mode in that respect!!! Soon there is more videos coming out with respect to general metering as well as a specific video on spot metering ... stay tuned
Love the tutorials by these guys…and these ladies are very easy on the eye!
TRICKY SUBJECT.............well explained...........thanks
Hi Stan... thanks so much for tuning in, I am really glad you enjoyed it!
Very well explained. Thanks!
Hi Craig... thanks so much for tuning in, I am really glad you enjoyed it!
Fantastic video that explains exposure compensation really well. Thanks for this!
Best tutorial on Exposure control 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Best to get it right in camera. I started using exposure compensation a few months ago and it made a huge difference in my results.
Hi Dave, glad to see you around here and I am proud of you for experimenting with your exposure. It really puts your photography in a whole new ball park.
@@janine-pangolinphotohost9722 Thanks! I watch and enjoy all the Pangolin videos. You all do a great job. Coming for an expedition is on my bucket list.
Thank you! That was helpful!
Just superb. Thanks
Thank you so much
You'll enjoy the mirrorless cameras. With the "what you see is what you get" viewfinders you instantly know when you are burning out the highlights. With the zebra settings turn on it makes adjusting exposure compensation so much easier on the fly. We love your videos, please keep them coming.
Thank you so much Jim
HI Jim, thanks for tuning in! yes it is a really cool feature that helps especially when you start out with photography. Eventually, you start developing a good feeling even with a DSLR but it takes a lot more time. Regardless, you still need to learn how to adjust it quickly....
Great video and clear explanation. Thank you very much!
Hi, thanks so much for the feedback and tuning in.... I am glad you enjoyed the video! Please keep in mind that your metering mode also plays a huge role here..... I did blend in the metering mode at the beginning of the video but am also busy editing another video that goes more in depth about spot metering and its' affect on your exposure in turn.... I am personally not a big fan of spot metering... stay tuned to our channel and you will soon find out why
Great tutorial video from the oracles of wildlife photography.
Hi... thanks so much for tuning in, I am really glad you enjoyed it!
Just added a mirrorless and was shooting and owl at dusk. The exposure compensation ‘saved’ some of my photos from the dreaded noise
Good to hear. Thank you for sharing.
Hi Michelle... thanks so much for tuning in, I am really glad you enjoyed it! The mirrorless camera gives you another added bonus by having instant feedback... an amazing feature! Also pay attention to your metering mode in that respect!!! Soon there is more videos coming out with respect to general metering as well as a specific video on spot metering ... stay tuned
Excellent tip Janine
Hi Kevin... thanks so much for tuning in, I am really glad you enjoyed it!
cool video keep up the great content
Thanks....
Excellent Video, learned a lot from a Beautiful Young Lady. Thank You.
Thank you for explaining! Hopefully, I get this right! :-)
Wow Thank you so much!
Great content thank you 👍
Hi... thanks so much for tuning in, I am really glad you enjoyed it!
Good explanation on exposure compensation.Often had to adjust for the egrets at my location. True not many would mess around with it.Always enjoyed pangolins tutorials 👌🙏
Excellent Tutorial. Neat and precise. Very useful information and needs practice. Thanks a ton.
Thanks for the tips on bright versus dark subject.
Hi Harold... thanks so much for tuning in, I am really glad you enjoyed it! Also pay attention to your metering mode in that respect!!!
wow these ladies get better looking every video i watch
They get older too... And in the wild, think "Cougar".
Good explanation and options and reasons to use. Was one that didn't, and just recently started using. Definitely helps reducing noise in post. THANKS
Hi, thanks so much for the feedback and tuning in.... I am glad you enjoyed the video! .... I also just just finished a video that goes more in depth about spot metering and it's affect on your exposure in turn...... I personally am not a huge fan of it. Stay tuned if you are curious why...
I have been shooting with the Canon EOS R with the Control Ring Adaptor. I have set the Control Ring to allow me to change the exposure compensation, which makes it very easy to adjust.
Hi Bill, thanks for tuning in. Yes, that would make such a difference to handeling your camera! Well done... also the R series makes exposure compensation even easier as you can see the immediate result in your view finder!!!
Thanks for the tips Need to know more about the tripod you're using, looks very useful to have one
Interesting topic. Certain details of great importance must be discussed, like if shooting in A mode and ISO is preselected, exposure comp dial affects the shutter speed whereas if ISO is set to auto then exposure comp affects ISO and not shutter speed. The former becomes a tad tricky when you need to shoot a fast subject (e.g. bird in flight) increasing exposure comp slows the shutter speed, therefore preselecting a higher shutter speed instead and setting ISO to auto would be a viable alternative. Then there's the subject of shutter priority and metering choice. Aargh!
Hi, thanks for tuning in and your great feedback. You are correct absolutely correct there is a lot of other factors playing in as the exposure triangle is so delicate .... there is no quick answer to your question here. So please bear with me.... In general I would never advise an automatic ISO for Aperture Priority for those very reasons. But in general on any semi-automatic mode you can simply fix your exposure and the automated setting will make sure you achieve it - regardless whether it is AP or TV or even Manual with Automatic ISO. On full manual the camera gives you a light reading of how much light you are actually letting into your camera based on the settings you have chosen. You can still adjust the exposure by adjusting these settings until your light meter reading gives you the desired result. On my older 5Dmkiii I am shooting full manual (as manual with Auto ISO is not an option) and I am using the ISO to dial my exposure to the desired level after choosing the shutter and aperture respectively. However in any case the metering mode heavily effects your light meter. So to come to a point.... based on evaluative / matrix metering or even center-weighted metering this tutorial is applicable to all shooting modes. It doesn't matter how your settings are combined (which mode you use) - you will want or need a very specific amount of light in your shot to generate the look and feel that you were after. I personally prefer shooting Manual with Automatic ISO for wildlife photography - check out Sabine's video here as to why kzhead.info/sun/abaNntyyintjbH0/bejne.html as well as Guts' video kzhead.info/sun/qb6DqNKPfnyAaK8/bejne.html. Our entire team does use this shooting mode.... My main reason for not using AP, is the following: Your shutter is absolutely crucial in wildlife photography as capturing the motion sharp or blurry is so important. On AP you have to adjust the shutter via changing your ISO which is both time consuming and not so accurate as you have to sort of guess how high to raise the ISO in order to achieve the desired shutter speed. Also with sudden light changes your shutter could be dropping without you noticing and ruining your shot... not ideal - I like my shutter under control My main reason for not using TV is the following: Keeping control of your Aperture is a huge part of your creative process. I do not like to be on F-stops higher than 8 unless I have a very specific reason. Most of the time I try shooting as low as possible to achieve a pretty Boke.... On TV that often goes out of the window as priorities within the algorithm are different so you have a lot of detail in your background. Therefore, I like direct control of shutter and aperture... my ISO is automated and can do all the work for me when choosing different exposures for different light conditions. (our high key and low key tutorials, as well as our rim light tutorial will give you an idea as to how and where and why to change your exposure further) Soon there is more videos coming out with respect to general metering as well as a specific video on spot metering ... and why I personally really don't like it for wildlife photography....stay tuned
Great video....but doesn't it depend also on type of metering one is using. Say for example if one is using spot metering on an egret then the camera will underexpose the subject with not much detail in it. In this case won't it be prudent to dial the exposure compensation to positive side to properly expose the subject and thus get the true white.
exactly what I was thinking - I'd love to see the difference between under-exposing on matrix vs spotting (guess I'll have to try it out!)
Hi, thanks so much for the feedback and tuning in.... I am glad you enjoyed the video! I did blend in the metering mode at the beginning of the video but am also busy editing another video that goes more in depth about spot metering and it's affect on your exposure in turn......
@@tippextemp You would have to deduct about a stop and ahalf when on spot metring
Thanks Janine .....will be waiting for the video....it will be very interesting.
@@janine-pangolinphotohost9722 Thanks so much Janine - did some experiments this weekend too. Loving the videos!
Another valuable lesson! Thank you!
Thank you so much Jos, glad you liked it - cheers Janine
Hi, thank you for bring it down to my level..very neatly explained.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Jacob... thanks so much for tuning in, I am really glad you enjoyed it! Also pay attention to your metering mode in that respect!!! Soon there is more videos coming out with respect to general metering as well as a specific video on spot metering ... stay tuned
I’m self taught I still don’t know anything about photography but I’ve been adjusting my exposure from the beginning glad I didn’t know any rules btw I’ve almost been published in National Geographic 14 times an only getting better with time
Sabine,you are a genius ,you explain everything better than anyone. Thanks for that very enlightening tutorial
Nope...that was Janine. ;-)
oops Sorry,getting confused, meant to say Janine......brilliant @@PangolinWildlife
Hi Janine. Just discovered all the Pangolin photography videos and thoroughly enjoying them. In your video on exposure compensation you mentioned using the wheel on the top of the camera to rapidly adjust exposure compensation - can you explain how you set that up please? Thanks
Set the camera to manual, pick your shutter speed and aperture combination and auto ISO with plus 2 stops exposure compensation and Spot meter off the brightest thing in the scene that you are concerned about having any detail in and everything will be honkydory.👍😀
I am just learning to shoot with my 150-600 Sigma. I have trouble with the images being over exposed. I can adjust the exposure compensation but I have to go into the camera menu to do it when I am shooting in manual. With what you have said, it seems like the images would be way over exposed.
HI Willnot, this is a good basic setting for sure. However, you will struggle in certain scenarios .... with wildlife you cannot always choose the brightest part as you really want to have the eye in focus instead and often you don't have time to find the brightest part on the animal. It will definitely give you a good base to work on though.... I am also busy editing another video that goes more in depth about spot metering and it's affect on your exposure in turn......
😂 and by that time the wildlife has moved on.
Great explanation, This is my next area of skill I need to get my head around. I have set up EC on the rear wheel of my R7, The top wheel is shutter speed. Aperture is set on the lens ring of my 100-500, I use Auto ISO so the standard controls are OK for that.
Hi. I have just discovered your videos and they are wonderful. Thanks so much -- just the right "technical" level I've been looking for. This video has been very useful and actually has improved the quality of the photos I've taken near my home. I live about 20 minutes from a wildlife area (birds) -- the minus exposure advice for photographing egrets fixes the compensation so that the shadows and details are not blown out by too much light. So, thanks much. I've also added exposure for darker birds and that helps too.
great stuff Yvonne. Glad it helped.
Great video and very helpful. Thanks for doing these videos while we are socially distancing and not traveling. It helps me keep learning.
Hi Gary... thanks so much for tuning in, I am really glad you enjoyed it! Also pay attention to your metering mode in that respect!!! Soon there is more videos coming out with respect to general metering as well as a specific video on spot metering ... stay tuned
Hi Janine Thanks for all the wonderful videos you are offer and advice. I would like to see more videos for you. I like they manner you are explaining and how professionally using your camera and took the photos.
Thank you.
Great information guys, I stumbled on these videos yesterday. I have been to Botswana in 2008 and waiting to visit again. Have a few of my friends there and hopefully next year will try to come for a visit and book a photo safari with you guys. I have my Sigma 60-600 I bought last year, so far I have only shot Grizzly bears in Alaska. I will follow you guys, thanks. On exposure compensation, I used to mess with it when I primarily shot DSLR but since I switched to mirrorless, I don't have the need to change ex-comp, I can see on my EVF what I am about to shoot, but that's me, and I am not a professional :-)
Hi Aruna, thanks so much for the feedback and tuning in.... I am glad you enjoyed the video! We would love to welcome you here in person.... what a treat! I also have a 60-600mm and have been shooting it a lot... soon there is a detailed review about it coming out! Cheers
Hi Janine, I didn’t realize under expose create more noise than over expose. I wish I knew this when I was in Kenya Safari back in January. That is a good tip to keep in mind. Thank you. Great video!
Next time!
Perfect timing! I was playing around with this the past week. I found it tricky to get correct but did begin to understand how it works...sort of, lol :) Thanks so much for sharing your expertise, look forward to the next set of competition photos, always inspiring to see! Cheers & stay safe!
Hi Will, so glad you tuned in and that it helped you. Funny how timing sometimes works out.... if you stick with one metering mode you will definitely develop a good feeling for it soon. Happy shooting....
Wonderful topic Janine, as I suppose I'm more 'new' to using this feature, albeit have had my Nikon now for over 4 years. I find 'if' an animal is at rest, I thought I would ask you if 'bracketing' might be a good option, to get the best of the shadows, yet good control of your highlights without overexposing? I personally, tend to use the histogram on nearly every shot, to make sure I'm not overexposing, rather than using the 'blinkies' which I found to be distracting. Perhaps you could expand more on using the histogram as well in a video? My downfall is in using post editing, in that I would 'like' to have everything in camera as best I can, so little post needs to be done, since I find now that I'm a senior, that post editing software has become too complex! For those wishing to be a photographer as a career, I can see it, but for the mass majority, we just want the best image we can get, without spending hours in post. I was out taking images yesterday, and although I use the aperture setting more than manual or shutter, as I prefer 'landscape' photography the most, with auto/ISO, I usually used spot metering, but after watching some of your video's, I gave centre weighted a try, and got favourable results, but still like 'spot'. So much to learn, but with folks like yourself, and the many that are responding here, it's all most helpful, and I'm thankful for it!
I've just now subscribed, and hopefully you can answer a question for me (especially since you're familiar with Canon cameras). I've a 7D Mark II, in Manual mode, with Auto ISO. According to the manual, each time I want to access exposure control, I have to go through the time-consuming steps of 1. Press MENU button. 2. Goto camera shooting setting #2 Exp.Comp/AEB 3. Press SET. 4. Turn the Quick Dial to the desired exposure compensation value. Isn't there a quicker/more expedient way to access exposure compensation???????????????? Many thanks!
Thank you I have used compensation but the part about the light and dark subject in wildlife was a unha moment . I had photographed mostly landscapes just started wildlife I will use the compensation more in wildlife more
HI ... thanks so much for tuning in, I am really glad you enjoyed it! It will make such a difference to your photography! Give it a good go!
awesome
thanks so much
Great video, thanks Janine. I think the only thing you didn't mention that is important is the metering that you're using. I've had some great success now with my cameras new 'Highlight' metering mode, which automatically sets the exposure for the brightest part of the image, but I still regularly couple it with exposure compensation. This isn't perfect for all situations though, but whatever mode I use I always 'adjust' with exposure compensation.
Hi, thanks so much for the feedback and tuning in.... I am glad you enjoyed the video! I did blend in the metering mode at the beginning of the video but am also busy editing another video that goes more in depth about spot metering and it's affect on your exposure in turn...... I have never tried the highlight metering... that is quite interesting... but I assume that it can darken your image significantly. Then you must be careful that your shadows don't become too deep as that is where the noise is hiding.... enjoy playing around with it and happy shooting :)
@@janine-pangolinphotohost9722 Thanks Janine. You're spot on about darkening the image, sometimes it does a terrible job, but mostly it's great, especially for not blowing out the highlights. As I said though, another great video, and I'm looking forward to the next one too!
Love your videos.... and yes, I agree but you should mention the light meter mode..... I use Spot metering in many cases and like you said depending on the size of your subject in the viewfinder the compensation is different or none...
Hi, thanks so much for the feedback and tuning in.... I am glad you enjoyed the video! I did blend in the metering mode at the beginning of the video but am also busy editing another video that goes more in depth about spot metering and its' affect on your exposure in turn.... I am personally not a big fan of spot metering... stay tuned to our channel and you will soon find out why!
Awesome video guys! Really relevant content explained very well.
Glad you liked it!
i Dynamic can be used - in my Pany G9 - with ether Raw or Jpeg. I'll leave it on Auto unless my shadows in the frame are fairly dark - then I'll select High & the camera does a fairly good job at bringing up those dark areas. Even with i Dynamic being applied my exposure compensation dial still functions. What are your thoughts ?
This explains a lot of my issues with egrets and herons! I'm going to experiment more on my next outing and see what I can come up with...
Hi, thanks so much for the feedback and tuning in.... I am glad you enjoyed the video! I did blend in the relevant metering mode at the beginning of the video but am also busy editing another video that goes more in depth about spot metering and its' affect on your exposure in turn....many photographers use spot metering to fix that issue.... I am personally not a big fan of spot metering... stay tuned to our channel and you will soon find out why!... happy shooting and let me know how it works.... I never shoot an egret less than -1
I tend to expose to the right with my DSLR cameras. It's a bit different now with the mirrorless cameras.
that button is one of my most-often used ones, along with speed and f-stop. ISO is on auto.
Yep.... so important... I can only agree. Cheers Janine
Like so many things in photography, if you don't play with it, if you don't use it or practice with it, exposure compensation will not become instinctive. It will always be a struggle. The first step would be to set up your camera to be able to change exposure without looking at you LCD.
Hi Janine, I love the Pangolin Wildlife Series and have a couple of questions about this particular video? When you first start out talking about having an exp/comp of either +1 or -1 I make the assumption that you are in some sort of automatic mode, as in Aperture priority or Shutter Priority and the camera would then adjust the other variable being either shutter speed or aperture, am I correct in this? I as this because I find it difficult for you to be in manual plus auto iso because as we know, this will just raise or lower your aperture, but you talk about have the correct aperture so that it doesn't affect your elephant or lion cub pictures, so i am assuming that those two pictures were taken using AP or TV? I do notice later on during the fish eagle sequence that you are using manual and auto iso, so exp/comp changes made using these settings as we know, only raise/lower the iso to the required setting. Therefore, could you explain your preferred settings for wildlife, whether they are AP or TV with preset iso and variable exp/comp? Kindest regards, Bruce Terrill Australia
Hi Bruce, thanks for tuning in and your great feedback. You are correct to some extend and there is no quick answer to your question here. So please bear with me.... Yes on a semi-automatic mode you can simply fix your exposure and the automated setting will make sure you achieve it - regardless whether it is AP or TV or even Manual with Automatic ISO. On full manual the camera gives you a light reading of how much light you are actually letting into your camera based on the settings you have chosen. You can still adjust the exposure by adjusting these settings until your light meter reading gives you the desired result. On my older 5Dmkiii I am shooting full manual (as manual with Auto ISO is not an option) and I am using the ISO to dial my exposure to the desired level after choosing the shutter and aperture respectively. However in any case the metering mode heavily effects your light meter. So to answer your question.... based on evaluative / matrix metering or even center-weighted metering this tutorial is applicable to all shooting modes. It doesn't matter how your settings are combined (which mode you use) - you will want or need a very specific amount of light in your shot to generate the look and feel that you were after. I personally prefer shooting Manual with Automatic ISO for wildlife photography - check out Sabine's video here as to why kzhead.info/sun/abaNntyyintjbH0/bejne.html as well as Guts' video kzhead.info/sun/qb6DqNKPfnyAaK8/bejne.html. Our entire team does use this shooting mode.... My main reason for not using AP, is the following: Your shutter is absolutely crucial in wildlife photography as capturing the motion sharp or blurry is so important. On AP you have to adjust the shutter via changing your ISO which is both time consuming and not so accurate as you have to sort of guess how high to raise the ISO in order to achieve the desired shutter speed. Also with sudden light changes your shutter could be dropping without you noticing and ruining your shot... not ideal - I like my shutter under control My main reason for not using TV is the following: Keeping control of your Aperture is a huge part of your creative process. I do not like to be on F-stops higher than 8 unless I have a very specific reason. Most of the time I try shooting as low as possible to achieve a pretty Boke.... On TV that often goes out of the window as priorities within the algorithm are different so you have a lot of detail in your background. Therefore, I like direct control of shutter and aperture... my ISO is automated and can do all the work for me when choosing different exposures for different light conditions. (our high key and low key tutorials, as well as our rim light tutorial will give you an idea as to how and where and why to change your exposure further) Soon there is more videos coming out with respect to general metering as well as a specific video on spot metering ... and why I personally really don't like it for wildlife photography....stay tuned
EDIT: Oh, 🤦🏻♂️😂 these thing I mention are already comprehensively explained in the first linked (Sabine's) video. _______________ Hi Bruce 🙂. Great answer from Janine 👍🏻! Just wanted to mention/confirm that when in manual mode with Auto ISO camera doesn't change the aperture. It only changes the ISO - that's the whole idea behind using Auto ISO. Depending on your camera you can also set limits to the Auto ISO range as well as the EV value Auto ISO targets.
@@janine-pangolinphotohost9722 Hi Janine, I also shoot with a 5d mark iii. If I shoot in Manual on Auto ISO, then I cannot do exposure compensation. It totally locks that function for me. I can only do exposure compensation in Tv or Av modes. Am I doing something wrong, or is their just something that I need to change in the settings? Also, I was wondering what your recommended camera settings would be on the 5d mark iii for wildlife photography. I've Googled it and cannot find a video tutorial aimed at camera settings for African Wildlife on the 5d mark iii. There's many on the 5d mark iv, and a few aimed at specifically bird photography, but not aimed at all aspects of wildlife photography. TIA
I have to start training to dial in exposure compensation without looking to the dials.
HI Abel ... thanks so much for tuning in. It will make such a difference to your photography! Give it a good go!
Another way of remembering: expose towqrds the background. Bright-> bright. Dark -> dark.
Indeed.
Hi Eke, thanks for watching ... that is a great way of remembering it!
Sabine, You didn't mention using the camera's histogram as an aid to getting the correct exposure. In tricky lighting situations I like to use it and then decide how much exposure compensation to use. Do you use the histogram?
Can you do a review of the 600 and 800 f11 lenses ?
Janine! what do you call the camera mounts that you have on your boats and who sells them.Thank you
nice explanation, when you'll have some for R5 pls?
Hi, it came out today!
@@PangolinWildlife good job Janine! Saw the video. :)
Hi Janine, why you don’t choice spot metering rather that compensation exposure ? Perhaps, I will see you June 2021. Best regards, Mario
Hi Mario, thanks so much for the feedback and tuning in.... I am glad you enjoyed the video! Many wildlife photographers choose spot metering for that very reason.... I just just finished a video that goes more in depth about spot metering and it's affect on your exposure in turn...... I personally am not a huge fan of it. Stay tuned if you are curious why...
Well I 100% manual and spot metering mode at all the time, I just measure the light with the spot metering depending on the subject tone and lighting.. that set.
Am I right in saying that adjusting exposure compensation also increases or decreases your shutter speed!
Strong Contrast means that the subject detailing is perfect under light OR black or darker in color which one???? and very nice tutorial
Thank you so much Arup!
Wonderful video Janine. I very much like the idea of assigning EC to the top wheel which has always been my shutter wheel. Now I have to assign shutter speed to another dial leaves me no other for Aperture. Thoughts?
Hi Mohsen, which camera body do you have? I am sure we can find an elegant solution for you!!!!
@@janine-pangolinphotohost9722 I have the 90D, I know you are not a fan :) Pangolin is definitely on my wish list now.
@@PaPaMoSSi I have a 7D II which allows me in manual mode to adjust exposure by holding down the set button and rotating the top dial. It's a custom setting. The 90d may offer something similar.
@@jrd33 yeah, I bought the 7dii and moved on to R5 recently.
On a canon one DX Mark two the main control wheel (on the back) changes exposure compensation. The fast wheel the top wheel spreads it out. On the 5DSR the same thing. Do you know if it’s possible to change it to the quick control will hear the shutter. Or do you know how to reverse these two wheel functions.
I heard a saying once: " never underexpose your high ISOs"
Didn't notice a histogram in your viewfinder. Matrix metering, rather than spot metering, may not be the best setting for the situations you encounter.
Hi, thanks so much for the feedback and tuning in.... I am glad you enjoyed the video! I did blend in the metering mode at the beginning of the video but am also busy editing another video that goes more in depth about spot metering and its' affect on your exposure in turn.... I am personally not a big fan of spot metering... stay tuned to our channel and you will soon find out why! I am shooting a DSLR and not a mirrorless so I don't have the immediate feedback in the view finder. It is all a matter of gaining experience and a feeling for light....
Wow, exp. comp. -3EV on crappy Canon sensor? Good luck with pulling shadows :))) On Nikon it is easy - matrix, auto ISO and exp. compensation :)
Ev values are really just a redundancy to iso, aperture and shutter. My mirrorless won't even let me adjust them in manual mode.
Hi Janine, can you explain to me why you don't just increase shutter speed? Is there a difference between decreasing the shutter speed and reducing the exposure compensation? I was wondering because I usually don't touch my compensation and usually just decrease the shutter speed. Thanks in advance!
If she is shooting with Auto ISO, then increasing the shutter speed in Manual will just increase the ISO without affecting the exposure.
Could you do a test with the R6? I would like to hear from you
Hi Marie, we would love to and it was the plan to test these cameras in April. But since our borders have been closed since March we currently cannot get our hands on it. It is such a pity. We will get to it as soon as possible....
Some technical opinion please: I shoot birds by setting my aperture and shutter speed and use auto ISO. I use spot metering on my subject. I don't have any excessive amount (if any) of blinkies. Am I achieving the same as exposure compensation by using my method?
Hi Rich, thanks for tuning in! I am glad you enjoyed the video! For a lot of cases you will receive a similar result.... maybe not as dark as my egret as it will provide you with a neutral exposure rather than a low-key image but it will get you in the right direction! I did blend in the metering mode at the beginning of the video but am also busy editing another video that goes more in depth about spot metering and its' affect on your exposure in turn.... I am personally not a big fan of spot metering... stay tuned to our channel and you will soon find out why!
@@janine-pangolinphotohost9722 Cool, thanks Janine !! :-)
Great video. I learned that light metering mode is important for situations like this. I like to set to spot metering for white egrets and bald eagles to keep the white features from being blown out.
Hi, thanks so much for the feedback and tuning in.... I am glad you enjoyed the video! I did blend in the metering mode at the beginning of the video but am also busy editing another video that goes more in depth about spot metering and its' affect on your exposure in turn.... I am personally not a big fan of spot metering... stay tuned to our channel and you will soon find out why!
You can't just spot meter a white tone and get a perfect exposure. A spot meter in your camera does one thing transfers all it reads to a 18% grey. So a white egret would be under exposed by two to two and a half stops. Requiring you to compensate by that amount. Spot read a black with detail tone (black bears fur) and the camera would over expose by two to two and a half stops. Requiring you to compensate by that amount. Spot meter a midtone and no compensation would be needed. As the midtone is already near 18% grey. Simple tonal chart to remember when using a Spot meter mode...Total white add 3 stops ; White with detail add 2-2.5 stops ; bright grey add 1 stop ; midtone no compensation ; dark grey subtract 1 stop ; black with detail subtract 2-2.5 stops ; Total black subtract 3 stops.
@@forsterl.stewart414 I'm learning something new everyday. Thank you for the explanation and suggestion.
I spot meter my exposure just for this reason. I expose for the subject never the background
Hi, thanks so much for the feedback and tuning in.... I am glad you enjoyed the video! Many wildlife photographers choose spot metering for that very reason.... I just just finished a video that goes more in depth about spot metering and it's affect on your exposure in turn...... I personally am not a huge fan of it. Stay tuned if you are curious why...
Janine - Pangolin Photo Host sounds great I will keep an eye out.
The way i do it is if it's bright out I start with 1 under exposed and then go to 2 and then 3 under in quick succession. I don't bother looking at my histogram because I know I can work with the best one in editing and besides it wastes time, it's better to get the shot than miss it while looking at a histogram. I do the opposite for dim light of course. Did I win?!
Have you tried bracketing to simplify this process?
@@jrd33 I've changed my process because I've found that most pics are normally too dark and need to be over exposed with a value of at least EV +.03 so bracketing will not be productive for me. I appreciate the input.
and use of spot metering ?
Hi Christophe, thanks so much for the feedback and tuning in.... I am glad you enjoyed the video! Of course your metering mode also plays a huge role here.....A lot of wildlife photographers do use spot metering for ease.... I am also busy editing another video that goes more in depth about spot metering and its' affect on your exposure in turn.... I am personally not a big fan of spot metering... stay tuned to our channel and you will soon find out why
If i put my metering on spot would that eliminate the need to mess with exp comp ?
Not necessarily. Spot metering only works on the centre of the frame, which may not be where your focusing point is (at least on Canon cameras).But even so, it's going to be hit or miss. Supposing you're photographing a black and white bird that fills 5% of the frame... the spot metering might meter off a white part or a black part!