LED Strip Lighting Installs: Beginner, Intermediate and Expert Level
LEDs can make even cheap furniture look expensive, but make sure you avoid these common installation pitfalls.
💰💰💰Pro Level Install 💰💰💰
Joylit 24V 90W LED Strip:
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24V Power Supply:
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Shelly RGBW2:
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Hunhun Aluminum Channels:
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2 LED Wire:
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💰💰 Intermediate Install 💰💰
Pautix 24V COB Tunable White Strip Kit:
• US: amzn.to/42jQhJH
• CA: amzn.to/3Jv2Hpx
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Pautix Solderless Connectors:
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3 LED Wire:
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WAGO Inline Connectors:
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💰 Novice Install 💰
Novostella Tunable LED Strip Kit:
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• CA: amzn.to/4a3lPWF
• UK: amzn.to/3JvYPEU
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00:00 Introduction
00:23 Beginner Install
02:50 Amateur Install
05:37 Expert Install
Went from beginner to Expert in only two projects thanks to your vidéos and Chris Maher's too. Even though the full project went from 6 hours to 12 (because it was massive and needed many soldering points while we didn't use an iron in ten years) but it was super worth it! Thanks bro!
You are now in my home designs folder.
Great little comparo. Getting some diffusers for LED strips is kind of the bare minimum in my book, they're so very cheap and they basically always massively improve the end result.
Another benefit of using aluminum channel is it helps cool down LED strip. It's quite important if you use high power LED and in hot weather.
WELL PRODUCED VID! i respect that and am here to support!
Those WAGU lock nuts are the best invention ever!
For anyone looking for those, and not for wagu beef. Those are called Wago Inline splicing connectors series 221. The ones showed here are Wago 221-2411.
I really like the format of using three approaches and contrasting them. Thanks!
Great comparison. Would love to see some tips about installing LEDs under kitchen cabinets above the countertop
I’d love to see some of your projects around the house that you used LED light strips on
What a great video! The final setup looks so nice and I love how the second option doesn’t require any soldering
Great video as usual mate! love the non classical videos you provide to the community with real use cases and insights of things that we all are interested. Thank you!
The channels idea really inspire me! After hurricane Ian destroyed my outside LED installation, I redid my outside with 12V LED string lights and I have a bunch of those channels hanging around and some LED strips I haven’t used yet. Thanks now I got to get my Boss to buy in too.
Nice one Rob. Never thought of the idea of turning the aluminium channel to face backwards. I’m planning to do something similar on some ikea furniture so your timing is perfect.
Nice comparison showing how it’s done and the results! Makes me want to try something like that too.
Cool comparison, it looks great!
Haven't even watched through this yet, but HELL YEAH! Thanks. I wired my built-ins (Ikea) years ago, and switched from standard lights to LED lighting a few years ago, but it doesn't look great. I have exposed LEDs, but they are at the front and blocked by the doors, so it has indirect lighting. I have multiple different sections which are jumpered together. I see a lot of falloff in brightness from end to end, and the jumpers which are crimped together have some issues with current dropoff. Maybe I will try those LEDs and the splices to see how it works. It's very similar to what I'm currently doing, wiring hidden behind the doors.
Looks great indeed. Good job.
Looking GEAT Good idear with the angled LEDs and the electrical tape 🙂
Thanks Rob. Looks good.
Nicely done!
Buying those aluminium channels that look like stapler bullets with acrylic diffusers can actually make the first installation 10 times better. Or do a a strip lining the top shelf or what not better.The problem with backlighting is depending on what you put in sometimes it blocks the light too much that you have to turn up the brightness more than intended. Also, for some reason I'ma fan of using those small LED lamps on top of these types of cabinets sort of like the ones Ikea demonstrates with this and the Billy bookshelf.
Looks great!!
good video. As a test, if you pull the aluminum channel towards the front, when even mid way, and fire them down back at a 45 degree angle, you'll light the shelves a LOT more.
Absolutely. It's really a matter of what you're trying to light up. In our case those boxes are filled with things like packing tape and shipping supplies, so we don't really want to light up the things inside the boxes, but if you had something decorative on the shelves like pictures you could even move the channels all the way to the front and you still wouldn't be able to see the LEDs.
on the 1st less expensive device, you might get better results if you ran across top and then out the back,. then down and across the top of next shelf and out the back and so on.
Yeah, that would probably give better backlight uniformity as well.
I've been working on a very similar solution with Besta furniture as well. It's been an iterative process over the last 6 months. Since some of my Besta cabinets have doors, I was able to solve the downlight challenge by attaching the LEDs to the back side of the doors, also with 45 degree aluminum channel. For cabinets without the doors, I've implemented two solutions. For the top most shelves (where the Besta furniture is thicker) I routed a groove in the top for LEDs mounted inside of a shallow aluminum channel. For the adjustable shelves not hidden by a door, I designed and 3D printed my own color-matched face plates which slide over the front of the shelf, adding a hidden channel into which the aluminum extrusion can be press fit for a clean and hidden look. The latter solutions have been far more time consuming than most would even consider, but the results - completely hidden LEDs that illuminate everything below - are fantastic.
This sounds super nice and interesting! Do you have pics posted anywhere online that shows your set up, specifically the 3d printed solution?
I think I would just use black foam mounting tape across the entire length of the aluminum channel, vs. the alternative of electrical tape across the entire front. That little bit of light that still leaks through would gnaw at my OCD.
The glass shelf complicated things much more than I had anticipated. I was able to fix it by removing the glass shelf and putting a long strip of electrical tape along the back of the shelf wrapping it along the top of the channel and then over the back of the glass shelf. In hindsight it would have been much easier to to just spend the extra $4 and use a continuous double sided tape strip.
@@TheHookUp Sometimes the more I try to engineer myself out of an OCD trigger on a project, I just keep spending more to make it progressively but differently worse. 😀
@@marcberm I feel that. I built a putting/chipping green in my back yard a few weeks ago and it was bothering me that you could see the black rubber base of the surrounding turf. I am now 6 cans of spray paint deep (~$65) and it looks much worse than when I started, lol.
nice video rob
Fantastic!
A week ago I lined my home bar shelves with 12v BTF-LIGHTING FCOB from one of your shoot-out videos. My God are they bright, but I didn't include a way to dim them. What was supposed to be accent lighting is now serious task lighting, but after a few days we've learned to like it. Great vids btw.
If you think those are bright you should see the ridiculous Joylit lights in this video! I agree that those BTF FCOB lights are a great value though.
I love this!!! I’m a total noob with led lighting. Do you have a video on how you wired the expert level one? I would love to do something very similar and control multiple sections.
Amazing job. Wow. F yeah, bro.
Best recommendation for these to be hooked up to a regular light switch? Thanks.
What are the Brightest CCT adjustable High CRI LED Strips that you tested? I tried the Joylit COB CCT and love it but would love something closer to the UL Listed ones in brightness but with CCT Adjustment. Have you tried any?
I used some additional matching material to the carcass (an additional shelf for example) which i cut down to inch wide strips and fitted at the top front. This allows the items to be removed from the shelf, but provides a hidden surface on which to mount the LED strip which then illuminates from the top and front into the furniture
Yeah, that's a great plan too, one I considered!
The result really looks fine! Expenses? More than the bookcase itself. :D
Looking for an amateur to expert motion sensor for LED install (which system do you recommend). Installing led's in closet, want them on when motion detected. Thx!
very cool! love the different levels of implementation. can you use that Shelly controller with WLED?
Nah, the shelly controller is only for analog LED strips (but it's all local control and has a home assistant local api).
how can anything with black electric band be an expert level?
If I called it "vinyl edge banding" would that be better?
Any advice for really long runs like 10m+ ?
Great video. Would you mind telling what is the furniture between the bookshelves ? The one with the light coming through the base ? Thanks
I built that about 15 years ago. Saw a modern buffet design online and put my spin on it.
Can u do a review on wimius brand ?
LED videos are back?? Nice project guide. Don't know if you used a diffuser on the channel or not, but I find it always improves the look.
In this case the LEDs are high enough density and facing backwards, so I left the diffuser off to get a little more brightness for less power consumption.
Great video. I noticed you controlled the lights via an iPhone, however, the Shelly RGBW2 is not HomeKit compatible. How did you get that to work?
That was just accessing it using the local ip address of the rgbw2.
I would appreciate some guidance on how to connect the Altovec power supply, provided with a Jack, to the Rgbw2 that only has terminals. They show the cord with 3 conductors, so where would they land on the controller? Thanks, appreciate your content.
kzhead.info/sun/asaemrqPil9-ZY0/bejne.html
Good video but why would you recommend a RGB controller for a white strip light?
It is a dual mode controller, you can set it to RGBW mode or white mode. In white mode you get 4 separate channels of control as I’ve shown.
Any thoughts using a CCT analogue strip? What controller software are you using?
The 2nd one from pautix was cct analog.
@@TheHookUp Aww got it, so only the third option used shelly rgbw2? Little off topic, but what Kelvin temperature do you prefer for undercabinet lighting? 3000K, 4000K, 5000K? I know it kind of depends on look you're going for but you've looked at a heck of a lot more strips than me.
How to get that soft glow when turning on the leds.
I have that bookshelf too, but its unfortunate they dont sell it anymore. Its such a versatile shelf!
I just bought it 3 weeks ago :)
@@TheHookUp very cool! What are they selling it as? Mine was an inreda bookshelf, bought it like in 2008.
BESTA cabinets
@@TheHookUp Sweet, thanks! Its a killer cabinet. I use it as a computer cabinet with all my hardware and printer in there.
we have the same boss !
I wish you could have shown the wiring of the Shelly. Is it just one continuous connection, or does each shelf have it's own connection to the one Shelly?
Each shelf is its own connection.
on the shelly is there a way to link to motion sensor to turn on the led?
about 50 different ways.
Could have used cheap neon rope lights. There’s some compatible with Alexa / HA and automated them with a motion sensor from sonoff or linknlink. Fixes the exposed light issue and the rope lights can be cut as well. Or maybe used a Diffuser for the LED strip?
There are three main issues with the neon rope lights that would stop me from using them on a project like this: 1. They are extremely dim for the amount of power they consume. 2. They are hard to attach and keep straight. Double sided tape doesn't hold them well and if you use the clips they come with they will sag in between each clip. 3. They are crazy hard to extend. Once you cut them you have to surgically remove some of the silicone tubing and hope there is enough copper pad left on the strip to solder a new connector.
@@TheHookUp Thanks, you just saved me a lot of time and effort! This is precisely why I watch every single video you post
You forgot the most important part. How did the boss like the finished product? 😁 Nice vid as always!
Loved it :)
I wish you would tell us a white LED with a high color rendering index (CRI)
I made a whole video about it: kzhead.info/sun/rJeqfJ2nbnWseHk/bejne.html
Extruded aluminium 45 or 90?
Where did you mount the electronics?
just to the back side of the cabinet.
So the Pro version is covering up stuff you should not see with tape? ;-)
Also need to consider color of the cabinet… if you have white cabinet, less brightness for the LED..
Good point!
Where are the felt baskets from?
IKEA, they are made specifically for the BESTA cabinets.
Literally doing this right now but on ikea besta cabinets
These are IKEA besta!
@@TheHookUp 😮
I missed that you said that in the beginning 😂. I haven’t seen this version in the UK with drawers🤯
The way you installed the lights would brighten the background but darken items you put on display due to the fact the lights are behind them and there's nothing to bounce it back to the items
Correct, that is the intention for my specific use case with the baskets since they are primarily for storage and we don't want to highlight what's inside them. If you wanted to light a picture you would move the 45 degree channel further from the back of the shelf.
I did like the idea of using a 45 degree angle to bonce the light to the backwall as an indirect light sorce will definitely steal that one from you 😝
Loved everything except that last part where you used electrical tape to black out the gaps. It doesn't look very professional and electrical tape isn't that great for long-term adhesion. Assuming that you're going for a permanent install, a thin bead of black caulking might end up being a better solution. While not feasible with a glass shelf, you could also route out a groove along the back underside of a wood shelf for the aluminum channel edge to sit in.
Not feasible with the glass shelf and also not feasible with IKEA furniture since it's hollow and it would totally compromise the strength oft he shelf. We'll see on the longevity of the tape, but as far as the looks it is indistinguishable from the channel even from 1ft away when the lights are on due to the nature of the backlighitng.
@@TheHookUp All of our wood IKEA shelves are solid, so I guess it would only work for me...
@@nathanddrews The shelves that you can get as addons to the BESTA line are veneered particle board, but the BESTA cabinets themselves are 1/8" ply with honeycomb internal structure.
Use silicone instead of electric tape
That would also be an option.
Oh Canada… your store link for that LED strip in Canada is $136 because there is only a third party reseller 😂
All the LEDs in Canada were crazy expensive!!
@@TheHookUpYeah, it’s so odd. Depends on the company selling and if they sell direct to Canada or not (hint a lot of them don’t). If they don’t, resellers fill in those spots and it becomes very, very expensive.
Only use COB leds. That eliminates the dots. NEVER use wagos, they always fail. Run the shelves through the table saw with a dado blade stack to make a channel to install the led strips. In addition, use a 0-10V control driver, that will let you dim the lights to 1%.
No offense, but those are all pretty terrible pieces of advice. 1. Cob strips are great, but for indirect lighting they are overkill. As long as the distance to the reflective surface is greater than the space between the LEDs you will not see dots/hotspots. 2. Wagos are used all over the world for permanent installations and don’t fail. 3. Never run ikea furniture through a saw, dado stack or not. It’s hollow and you will ruin the entire piece. 4. Why would you use a 1-10v driver for 48v lights when you could use a pwm based controller?
sorry but that was nowhere near expert level. should have routered a channel into the top of each shelf and installed a recessed aluminum channel and added a diffuser.
Let me know how routing a channel in IKEA furniture goes for you, it's hollow.
In that case you could probably cut it with a sharp knife and installed a recessed strip. You could also paint the bottom of the glass shelf to hide light spill