I've Wanted One of These for SO Long
Disclaimer: We are not being paid for this video and we have not been told what to say.
This week we've got an honest look at a Magnetic Drill obtained from Vevor! It has become our new favorite budget option for getting new tools here in the shop. However, when something is inexpensive it will always come with some cut corners and drawbacks. We are here to tell you what those issues may be, and then you can decide if it's worth it for your shop!
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Find This Magnetic Drill Here:
s.vevor.com/bfP5rg
For the Anvil we previously featured:
s.vevor.com/bfP6Je
Thanks for watching!
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Filmed and Hosted by: Tay Whiteside
Featuring: Wyatt Allen, Jake Freeland, and Steve Heintzel
Edited by: Walker Hooper
Music Licensed from Artlist.io
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Any technique or methodology shown in this video is purely for entertainment and informational purposes only. Lift Arc Studios and their associated craftsmen are not liable for any injury or damage to your shop or surrounding areas you man incur while trying to emulate these builds. Remember, be safe, have fun, work smart!
I'm an engineer. Some points, guys (great vid, btw): 1. A water-based cutting fluid will substantially increase cutter life. (Water-based is best for tool temperature control. Lubrication is less important. HSS is prone to dulling after overheating.) 2. The centre pin designed to be used with the cutter locates it and also controls the flow of cutting fluid. 3. You can get a morse taper to weldon shank adapter to use an annular cutter on a conventional drill press, milling machine or lathe tailstock. 4. If you're overhead or inverted in the field, always strap the drill to the beam, in case the power fails or someone trips over the cord. 5. Magnetic attraction is also related to the thickness of the material being drilled. Mag drills generate maximum attraction on thick steel. Thin metal - not so much. (It's not really the strength of the magnet or the quality of the steel - it's the thickness. Just clamp the drill to the table and drill the hole in the job from there - even if you have to shim it with some thick plate to overcome the throat clearance.
All great points! I'm going to pin this comment for anyone else who may consider using a tool like this in the future! Thank you! - Walker (love your channel btw)
Love your website too John 👍 a fellow Aussie grump ! 😉 You are usually spot on.
Vault tech here, I literally came to say point 5. We tend to you vac rigs now a days because of the nature of composite vault doors. They also make a permanent switchable magnet version that you can attach a normal drill motor setup. StrongArm Cordless Magnetic Drill Press. Maglogix MagnaDrill which is the OEM for that. Not exactly the same but less likely to accidentally hit the release mechanism.
Yeah, sure, the translation is funny, but you’d be surprised at how easy it is to get injured by these drills if you don’t obey the rules. There are lots of inexpensive mag drills out there. Many start at $500, not $2,300. That’s a fairly expensive model. All the coolant feeds are similar to this one is, even on the most expensive models. Generally there is a way to mount it so that it’s vertical at different drill angles. If you don’t lubricate the cut with coolant, you WILL damage the cutter, no matter who made it. I damaged a couple of Hougen cutters when the coolant ran out and I didn’t realize it. Carbide is better, but expensive. You HAVE to use the pins! Seriously, read the damn instructions. That piece of metal is really too thin to hold a mag drill properly. The “liner” is called a gib. It will flex because it’s thin and not held in place except by the inner and outer dovetail. That’s normal.
In my experience there's a huge difference in using cutting oil Vs dry in the way it cuts and tool life. I have found extremely good tool life with oil, it's a reasonable quality cutting oil. A lot of this I suspect is because, the Hss tool has plenty of time to cool between the time it takes to move to a second hole the oil decreasing the friction and the cooling provided by the oil.
This press has worked like a charm for my projects kzhead.infoUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE . I didn't even secure it to my table top, mainly due to the fact that I was using a 15 lbs drill vise. It's not flimsy at all as to what others have claimed it to be. Make sure the locking nuts and levers are secured and there won't be any issues with light pressure and patience. I was able to drill through aluminum, plastic, and steel (steel took a while) with no problems at all. Yeah it took a little longer than a regular drill press, but I don't have the space OR the money for one.The instruction manual was worthless, but luckily assembling the press was intuitive. However, the manual would be good for ordering replacement parts if needed. There is a nice breakdown of the parts that are included in the kit. Before ordering, make sure it is compatible with your unit, it is clearly stated what models the press is compatible with.This was an excellent purchase for $40!!
Annular cutters last much longer with lubrication.
You can adjust the gibs by loosening the nuts on the Allen screws on the side and tightening the screws until it has no slop but still operates smoothly. Even the expensive ones need some adjustment every once in a while. For lubricant I always use a water soluble oil cutting oil in a squirt bottle and keep it wet to cool it to decrease wear. There is also the option to get the cutters sharpened again and that's pretty economic in the long run. To combat the magnet issues try and magnetize the drill on an bit of an angle instead of linear with the tube, that helps it find a surface that is as flat as possible.
If you drill your big hole on the one side then. Leave your drill connected to your piece then change to your little bit and drill the small hole through your piece. If you don't move your drill your small hole will be centered in your big hole. Hope this helps you.
You mentioned that the bit kind of wandered until it got started, there are centering pins that can be purchased for use with the annular bits. They seem to help a bit with the drilling we do. Also, like someone else said, the thicker the steel that the magnet is attached to, the stronger the holding power will be.
if you put the ejector in with the roto broch cuter and centor puinch the work locat the spring loded ejector in the center punch hole this reduces skidding .
Years ago we purchased a clone of this tool. It had a branded Hitachi drill head. We had the classic Milwaukee mag drill as well. I scoffed at the import machine until I started using it. It was only a fraction of the size and weight of the Milwaukee, and for that reason, I seldom used the Milwaukee. The import drill became the favorite. We never invested in the annular cutters and used twist drills in a standard 3 jaw chuck. This is really tempting for hobby shop use. A set of included annular cutters justifies the already low purchase cost.
Very useful tool. Typically you use a chain(they included the rope instead) when it's on its side or upside down in case you lose power. You also can get a standard drill chuck that will fit in a mag drill chuck. It eats up alot of your vertical space, but it let's you use smaller buts, annular cutters only go down to about 10mm.
I have the same unit and drilled my own welding table. A few hundred holes drilled and it is running great. Get some cooling fluid to keep the cutter wet and it cuts even better.
Congratulations on your new toy/ tool my friends. Can't wait to see more videos soon. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friends. Fab On. Weld On. Keep Making. God Bless.
i bought a cheap mag drill from amazon to drill holes in a welding table i was fabricating for myself when i first started welding. i still use both to this day one year later and ive never used the lube jug for the annular cutters, i just spurt lube or coolant from a spray bottle onto the cutter
Whenever I’ve used a mag drill I’ve always had a spring loaded centre inside the broach. Perfect everytime and no chatter/wandering
Great video and fantastic review looks a very cool to have and like you said so many uses for it now you have it I imagine you will use it loads. Keep up the great work 👍👍
Great video as usual! When dealing with crowned metal, aluminum, stainless steel...etc, just clamp a piece of metal to the problem/non-carbon metal and then you can use your magdrill in places you need to. Cheers!
Looks like a great drill! Keep the video's coming!!
They don't have an Evolution dry-cut saw because they only review free stuff.
We love you too Trey! And Wyatt of course...MORE WYATT!!!! Mag drills are the cat's ass too...
I took a look at the other Mag-drills in the Vevor line up, I have been wanting a new Mag for ages ever since getting my namebrand one stollen off a site. I don't use one enough to pay the big bucks again. The other models in the Vevor line have longer track (8 inch) so you can drill all the way through a 2x2 sq tube for pins. Also they have bigger motor - ie 1400 watts instead of 1100, and still have variable speed. Accessories available (sep prices) Jacobs chuck, set of 11 mag-drill bits. Looks good, I ordered it. Thanks Guys! I doubt I would have taken a chance on the Vevor without your vid.
Great video, I love watching you guys. Personally I would have been magneted the drill to the table to drill the holes that you had trouble with. That way you would not have to worry about the magnet not sucking down properly. Only reason I knew is I’ve done it 😂
The magnet strength is mostly related to the thickness of the steel. It works well enough at 1/4", but even better for thicker steel. As a user pointed out below, you can fix your problem by clamping a thicker piece of steel to your tubing, which only extends to near the edge of your magnetic base, and then the magnet will hold nice and tight. Also, for drilling mild steel, those HSS annular cutters last a long time. I have the Evolution brand of this drill, and I have drilled LOTS of 11/16" holes with one cutter, and it is still sharp. I use their cutting fluid coming down through the middle of the cutter, which is a little messy, but not too bad. If you are doing serious production or drilling tougher stuff, you can get carbide tipped cutters. See the Project Farm review of various brands of annular cutters. Evolution provides a little 'fence'-like piece which reduces the splash of fluid and chips somewhat. I don't always use it.
I have that same drill along with a set of Amazon cutters. I used it to replace axle brackets on a semi trailer. I was drilling through 4inch angle iron 3/8 inch thick. Worked flawlessly. For the guy that uses it occasionally,it's a great tool. I used 15w-40 to lube it. The lube system sucks so I just poured it on piece.
You'll love the annular cutters in your mill and lathe as well. They make Morse taper adapters to mount them in the tailstock, and R8 adapters for the Bridgeport. They're great for hogging out big holes. And the slugs from the center come in handy, so start saving them in a coffee can!
When I was a kid my dad had a big coffee can full of slugs and I couldn't ever figure out what they were from, definitely not knock-outs from panels or anything, WAY too thick.. huh, I just realized where he got all them. Not sure why I never asked or he never told me. He was a machinist / boilermaker in a previous life (before he met my mom I think). Great point and yeah annular cutters are SO nice to have
The only problem is they tend to get extremely hot and are often case harden, so it's a bitch and a half to turn them down in the lathe...
@@Guds777 Yep, the steel ones can be tough if not using cutting fluid, but the aluminum are good.
You need to put in the spring loaded center pin that ejects the core out, the pin also is used to center the annular cutter. You use center punch to mark the spot and then the pin can pick up on the mark and center itself, sometimes if the hole is critical you can center punch it, drill it with say 4-5mm drill and then the annular cutter will cut true. Also use coolant or cutting oil even just spray on. Also when you start use carbide tipped annular cutters you usually don't go back to HSS. 30MM in a Hardox (what you muricans call AR plates) with carbide tipped annular cutter no problem...
My friend. Of course it moves all over. Look where you magnetized your machine. Dios mío
You can send aluminum out and have it chrome plated. I did some work for a plastic window extruder and they could make vinyl extrusion dies quickly and cheaply if they used aluminum instead of tool steel. But the vinyl is very abrasive. They had the aluminum dies chrome plated and they lasted quite a while. Hey, you got a machine shop, make a steel way to replace that aluminum one!
I've known Vevor only as a brand sold an ebay or amazon for quite some time. After your video, I stumbled over their own online shop. Reading through their german product descriptions is a great way to entertain myself for quite some time. Navigation isn't great, but their products seem at least comparable to other very affordable brands, in some cases possibly better. I might be tempted to try a few things in the future. Their range of products is wild.
The magnet is what impressed me the most. The middle of the road 700-1200$ mag drills I’ve used you can break the magnet by hand and no adjustable speed
I was looking at different mag drills, I might have to buy one of those just for the instruction booklet.
Mag drills work great, couple of points. The thicker the plate it's mounted to the stronger the magnet becomes...It's how magnets work I believe. Also you need to get a 3 jaw drill chuck for it, then you can use your standard twist drills etc. Mine unfortunately only has one speed...around 500 rpm. So I've had some problems with countersinks/reamers etc. If you buy one get one with a variable speed if you can.
In addition to a drill chuck [stub drills work well] they make 3/4 weldon shank twist drill for smaller holes, watch out for the chips they are sharp.
The mag drills I have used I would use the oiler with a center pin that was printed loaded. The. Enter pin helped meter the oil but also would shoot the plug out after. If I couldn't use the oiler I would brush on some anchor lube. That looks like a great drill for the price.
I use the slug's for making jig's ect (eg.bending round bar into shapes) or u can use them as projectiles by shooting them from pipe with electronic solenoid with air connection going to air compressor or a small tank Great channel by the way it look's like you have a great bunch of blokes there working together with a lot of different skills between them
I use a spray bottle with mixed coolant for the cutter. The auto feed or drip is a pain and the reservoir gets in the way for some after thought hole punching in tight spots of a build.
I use one of them at work! Vevor made a really good magnetic drill!
24:50 - Love the "ah hah!" moment haha, and that's the beauty of an annular cutter! I used an adapter like John Cadogan mentioned for my drill press. My biggest tip is to use a vice as low to the table as possible, and to tighten the table down to reduce flex / chatter.
vevor has an european suplystore too , been looking at the magdrill for a while tooone of the projects i would have for it is to drill holes in a weld table for mounting welding clamps nice thing about those anulair cutters is that you can get a mt watever to 3/4 weldon adapter for them if you have a drillpress or a mill with a taper and these drills take less power so if you have say a drillpress for 13mm you could drill bigger holes with it as for the seperate circuit for the magnet , i think you could put a always on type pushbutton on there (push button to release the magnet ) and to prevent the drill falling if you touch the butting while drilling is running the switch for the drill through the same magnet while the drill is running
I drill holes in overhead steel beams. Tens of thousands of them over 30 years. I use a keyed chuck adaptor with regular 3/8" bit from Lowes for $5.00. I never use a dtop of " cooling fluid." Bits last over a year.
In the 80’s I’ve Drilled thousands of holes in fabrication with Milwaukee Mag drills. They excel in speed and portability when you have to drill on-site through beams already in place.
Mine is a Dewalt, before the Dewalt I had a Evolution S42. I was afraid to buy one of those Vevor because they look like disposable drills and now looking at that one at work, I do not regret my decision on going with the Dewalt which cost twice as much as the Vevor but can't compare in quality. The good quality mag drills, they completely cut off power if you disconnect the drill. You need to use that center pin it if you want precise holes. Also, the cutters come in 2 inch length.
There should be a guide pin to put ind the center hole of the annular cutter so you punch a marking so the pin hits the mark before cutter does thereby guiding til cutter 😁 ive use a mag drill a lot on truck frames for mounting knuckleboom cranes 😄
There should be a safety cover over that magnet switch. Up thirty stories oh shisst !!!
I only recently happened upon your channel and liked the tone, humor, and qualify of content right off. Regarding mag drill application, I recommend checking out a channel from across the pond called "The Metalist". While the content is devoid of speech, I've seldom seen a guy so adept with doing more less; very clever, artistic, and both entertaining and informative. He uses his mag drill as a primary drill press and has built a nifty accessory stand to better utilize the tool. Honestly, he's worth a watch. Love the artistic humor of his wicked smoke sucking cobra as a welding fume extractor head, literal spare hold down finger and hand axe. Subscribed to YOUR channel and looking forward to more.
Build a solid stand for it to magnetise to that attaches to your bench it helps when you are trying to drill seemed and bowed metal and box section
You can also buy an R8 arbor adapter and use the annular cutters on the Bridgeport ...the same with your large drill press if it has a morse taper spindle .
Nice vido and review, as you found out you need thick steal to hold well, and if you use too much force it will break loose, no mater what magnetic you get, will take thick steal better, have used mag drills for years, nice but they all have limitations, but can get a few models in that sub 500$ price range
Use the center pin ! Should be spring loaded to extract the slug too !
@Brandonlund has a great Mag drill stand. Alternatively a smaller tabletop base would go a long way. 2" thick base?
Hey look who is back gordito 🤣 Great tool, keep throwing cool videos bro!!!!
you can make an arbour to hold a chuck for hss bits , grate vids rase my sprits every time.
I looked up that mag drill. You should have a center pin that goes in your annular cutter that you can line up the center of your hole with. It shows it in the product picture online. I have used a mag drill allot on my old position. They were klein tool mag drills which I can not find anymore. But klein were top of the line mag drills.
Very nice tool , for the price .!
NICE WORK.✌✌🏁🏁
The lubrication actually makes a big difference in my experience, particularly with annular cutters I used a thicker cutting oil I got in the welding supplies and I found that works better then the thin water based stuff. It's $300 including cutters that's pretty damn amazing that's probably $100 in cutters alone. And Yes you're being too critical imo Vevor a great option especially for work I do occasionally but regularly, Not enough to spend thousands on a tool but enough to spend hundreds.
if you drill a lot in more than a half inche thick ....you should plug the cutting oil....but i use it for drilling in quarter inch mostly and i never plug this....hen i was working in structural stuff ....in base plate and gusset...oil is the way...
Great work, When we use them overhead we shalt safety strap them because of accidentally unplugging of the extension cord or temporary power failure.:)
Even better find a hole drill that fits in the 27mm hol to locate the center for the 3/8 hole! Actually since you're going to be using this more often the first idea would be best. Best of luck and I still want my 1/2 million!!!
Mag drills rock they change the game
The safety instructions 10:07 were hilarious. Vevor makes some good stuff, just not the tippy top of quality or engineering. I’ve got some of their stuff and it works when needed. Can’t ask much more for the price. THE GRABULATOR RETURNS! 😂😂😂
tay center punch hole center USE THE GUIDE PIN fits through the cutter . dont oil the ways . been using hiatachi mag drill with alu ways for 20 years in indrustrial setup with no problems
At our company, we have a chain attached to the drill. That eliminates the whole power off drill falling problem, and yes, that was from a lesson learned the hard way.
Gotta love those Chinglish instructions!😂
There should be a pilot pin that came with it that fits into the center of drill bit to center it on a center punch you make in the material your drilling.
Did you check the "fuse" on it? I saw a few youtube videos where people were testing the CUT50 plasma cutter from them and when they removed the fuse, it had a piece of copped soldered to the outside making it not a fuse lol
Bought the 1500W version, the buttons are much better the cutters are carbide the chuck is quick change comes and includes a standard chuck
Automotive oil lubercates and prevents cutting, Cutting oil is designed to help cut. Always use a safety chain when side or overhead drilling.Oil and tighten the gibs on the dove tail slide.
I thought about getting this mag drill but went with the evolution instead, bc i have the evolution 15" steel chop saw(im suprised you dont have one they are awesome) and am very pleased with it. I bought a vevor sbg-40 universal bender and i was not impressed with the quality at all. It does work though. But that purchase really turned me off to vevor. Im curious to see how long this drill last. It is nice that its variable speed. They also make adapters so you can use anullar cutters in your mill and lathe also. Thread cutting oil works good as a lubricant for drilling holes. You might already know this. But just incase. There is also and minimum thickness for the magnet to stick to, most mag drills have a saftey feature and wont even turn on unless the magnet is engaged in atleast 1/4 steel or thicker depending on what mag drill you have. And they also come with straps to strap it vertically or upside down incase you losr power and the magnet shuts off. Vevor sent a rope lol.
The drill will last a long time - you will not be able to use it when it has broken your arm
Check out Evolution Tools one of the best mag drills I ever used. They have dozens of drill bits sizes and different depth cutter depthd.
A magnet might help with the plugs.... Thanks for the vid guys.
You make nice happy hole with pokey drill. Keep feet and teeth at distance and birds fly with much flavor.
The manual is great for a good laugh.
If you ever have to cut horizontally like that you can strap the machine to the work as a backup to the magnet.
Good luck with that unit. Be safe, it can get nasty, quick.
As slow as possible and a lot of feed pressure will keep the cutters working properly for a long time. Actually goes for any drill bit.
Good video. Have fun with the drill. One pointer I would like to give. Treat the camera as a person. Meaning look at it in its eyes aka the lens. Something i have learned working with a few network tv shows. Don't look at the screen, look at the lens of the camera. It will improve your videos.
Easy to fix the problem with the magnet being turned off while drilling is in progress. Single jumper wire will do it. Depending on the terminals used by Vevor. Maybe use electrical tap splices. Anyway connect from drill switch output/speed control to output of magnet switch. So whenever drill motor is ON, the magnet is energized. Problem solved!.
Gotta love the instruction manual, Chinesium Chinglish.
7/16 is the smallest hole cutter they make and the thicker steel is the better the mag works . Good price and good job
If cord yank out does pull, drill gravitate toward floor?🤔
When drilling out the holes in that frame and you had the mag coming loose problem I thought you would just mag to the table then drill into the piece? Or was it not able to make that distance?
I was thinking the same, you can drill from anywhere
I love it when user manuals are actually worth reading 😂
Every magnet drill I've encountered so far has the separate button on a separate circuit for the magnet. Some have a bit of "security" by adding some ridges around the button so you're less likely to accidently press it. It's a mistake you'll probably only make once ;)
Some also use regular old drill chucks. Scouts honor.
The one I bought about 2 years ago has a #3 taper and should accept a tapered tool or holder.
First time I found out about Mag Drills was recently in one of Colin Furze tunnel videos.
Have you been able to measure runout?
Lube 🔥
I want one!!!
Only use cutting/tapping oil for drilling, using standard motor oil will prevent efficient drilling!
Chrome sucks, copper-brass-bronze is the answer to a great finish product. Other than that the video was awesome. I ordered the J1C-40 two weeks ago and it arrived today. I really like it, and the oiler is sub-par, but it will work. Once again, GREAT VIDEO!
If you don't want the plug to shoot inside the box start drilling then before you're all the way through take the pin out.
I wish I had one when drilling 8 holes overhead into steel I beams! That sucked!
The "liner" is called a gib and those screws are for tightening to remove slop.
You have to remember that the drill in not attached to a very thick plate in the vise so that will add to some wobble. Why not leave the drill on the table? You can still reach the hole.
the geared industrial one at work can only do 32mm drill bits
Yes, we know we used the cliché "KZhead Thumbnail Face" 😅 Don't worry, we'll try not to do it again... (unless for some reason this video does really well)
There is a certain time for the Thumbnail Face. This was one of those times!
Ha! Didn't notice thumbnail. You had me at Magdrill 💚🌵☘
fain make quick release mag drills and cutters of vireos length .
A trick that helps if the situation allows... If the magnet isn't grabbing on thinner material take a heavier piece of 1/2" or 3/4" and put it under what you're cutting. The magnet will still grab it. For example if I was drilling holes on a stringer channel that was laid out on horses.... Sometimes the drill might not grab great in this case so you could put the heavy piece of extra plate underneath the channel and the drill will grip better. Just be careful when releasing the magnet!
Yessur even our hougen mag drill needs at least 3/8ths inch thick base plate but you can take a 1/4 inch plate and put it under if your cutting something smaller
9:45 - I got involved with a rotating part once.
Good reviuw
Made that hole airtight!!!
I got one of these(vevor) mad drills a few months back and it came to me damaged and it wasnt from delivery it was a manufacturer defect, the rack didnt want to slide down because the holes that were drilled in the gibs were drilled off center so the gib wouldnt sit right in the track so it wouldnt go down more than half way. Then an absolute nightmare dealing with the company.