The Key To The City: A DIY Tactical Tool You Can't Be Without
In this video I’ll show you how to make a custom DIY pry bar that you can easily carry with you in Patrol, SWAT, or Detectives. I'll also show you some easy ways to carry it on your SWAT kit, external vest carriers, or soft body armor.
I stole this idea from a couple of guys from New York City’s Emergency Services Unit and I’ve used mine for years. For about $10.00 and a little tactical elbow grease you can have an effective breaching tool with you at all times.
#SWAT #Police #Patrol #PoliceGear #Tactical #DIY #PryBar
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Johnny Tactical exists to make law enforcement better from within and safer from without while helping you take your work seriously, but not yourself.
Live tactical. Be happy.
Materials:
- 12” pry bar
- Sandpaper
- Adhesive
- Paracord
Process:
Step 1: Remove factory handle
Step 2: Sand off factory coating on handle portion
Step 3: Apply a bead of adhesive to handle
Step 4: Wrap handle with paracord
Step 5: Cut and burn the paracord ends
Features:
- Easily fits in soft body armor panel pockets, MOLLE webbing, or in your Go Bag or backpack
- Light weight, around 5 oz.
- Inexpensive, about $10.00
- Small, strong, and versatile
- Able to pry doors open, force locks, or create space for larger prying tools
Genius idea Dooood!!!! Cutting the rubber grip off a harbor freight pry bar + arts & crafts time w/ glue and cord! Awesome tool creation, it's tacticool!
You know it, Girth!
Keep feathern it brother!!
@@johnny_tactical he making fun of you as he should
@@zzzetsulive LOL
@@lucuswhite8250 Mr Brooks really needs to give the families closure..... so sad he just can't follow proto. 🤔😉
"The older I get, the more I realize I should carry a big screwdriver, just in case someone's screw is loose." :)
Take a few minutes with a drill and put a hole through the top of the bar to have a lanyard hole. Things that are not attached always find a way to come loose or get lost riding in the car or truck or while getting in or out.
Yup, I see that. One of the ones I made I tied off a loop with the paracord to attach to a lanyard for that same reason. I probably should have addressed that issue in the video. Thanks for the feedback
Have fun drilling through hardened steel.
it's a harbor freight pry bar, it will drill lol
@@cliffeastwood4539 to your local machine shop, carbide drills will cut through hardened steel like butter
Sounds like you have some experience with this. Nice tip!
The 550 cord makes it tactical af and it’s super useful if your breaking into your roommates bedroom with the paper thin doors to scare the shit out of him while you LARP
Tactical AF. All paracord, all the time.
I made the exact same prybar over a year ago only I used a craftsman prybar. I didn't remove the finish under the wrap because in the event the wrap gets wet it still has some corrosion protection. The epoxy I used holds the wrap fine without having to sand.
I’ve carried one on my vest for the last 5 years and always recommend it to everyone. Only wish you would have came out with this video about 5 years sooner, it would have saved me some $$$. I bought mine already completed for around $30.
Thanks for watching! If I had a nickel for everything I wish I knew then that I know now....
Any door that this thing could open could be kicked in, and it'd be faster/more tactical for the element of surprise. So what is this thing useful for exactly???
where is it sold?
@@BrassBashers Are you saying this as a professional or as someone who has done breaching work before? Any door with more than one lock would be faster to breach with this than a kick. And any hollow interior doors would be likely to cave in with a kick instead of swing open. I've watched people put their fists and feet through doors like that and the lock didn't budge. But then you'd have to break through the whole door because the integrity is compromised in the material around the lock.
@@benkelsey891 I understand that as reinforced doors, I had honestly watched the Navy Seal video that recently came out of the guy who stopped an attack on a hotel that got taken over by t-rests.. He said he kicked over more than 50 hotel doors that day, including ones barred with the latch. I asked a simple question, he gave a simple answer, you had to go on your tangent. But thanks for the knowledge! Most doors aren't as reinforced as you mention.
I wrapped mine with paracord but left space as I wrapped, think stripes on a candy cane. Came back over that with heat shrink. Best of both worlds, grippy and space saving.
Nice, I like it!
I'd like to suggest using electricians heat shrink for underground cables . Chop off the amount required , gentle blowtorch to shrink and glue on , job done no muss no fuss never coming off plus it'll give a better palm swell for grip . Rope isnt a good idea , prone to failure
BuT pArAcOrD iS TaCtIcAl BrO
@@dxjuggalo 💀💀💀
Thanks for the video I modified it a little bit but appreciate your advice. Got the same pry bars took off the handles and did not remove the paint. Then I simply used some hockey tape for the handles. When I do this I pull a 12" length twist it tightly and pre wrap the handle as it gives it more grip. Then I continue to wrap regular about three times. Good solid grip and great tool. Thanks again
Glad to hear it! Ya, I agree, it's all about customizing to your own preferences. I'm glad this video got your wheels turning
Could peel the hockey tape off and use it as a torniquette or to repair something or tape your ankle. Hockey tape is good stuff.
@@misterbulger Please don't use hockey tape as a tourniquet. Its 2022 and there are many much better relatively inexpensive options. Be prepared, son.
@@scotttuttle2254 like a belt? Usually you dont carry a tourniquet in the off chance your leg gets severed since my pockets arent that deep
A drywall knife is also a great idea for bypassing interior door locks.
Just cut a hole in the wall? Good idea. Milwaukee makes a folding hand saw but it accepts sawzall blades. One of my most used tools for sure. You can put a drywall or wood or metal blade on it.
It works on exterior too
rly? i bend em all the time
😳🤔 wow never thought about using that... I got to try it now
Ah, I see youre a carpenter as well? Got tired of waiting for security to open up your job site door, too? lol We did it all the time. So many security or employees would be confused AND mad that we didnt wait for them to get started to work lol
Pour boiling water over it when you are done wrapping it. It makes it way tighter and won't loosen up.
I have never heard of this technique. I will definitely be giving this a try.
What about the glue. Do you apply the glue before or after the water.
@@Standalone062790 I would suspect before .. the boiling water shrinks the plastic so the glue would anchor the ends making it tighten up
I've never used glue on my wraps. Just hot water and I've never had a problem with them. Not saying it doesn't work?
Becoming a tactical stealth ninja sounds really dope
I couldn't have said it better myself
Great video!. I learned something new about attaching a long handled accessory to molle webbing. Fantastic idea!. Definitely has multiple uses. Thanks for sharing!. 👍🏻
Thanks for the kind words, I appreciate that!
That spring loaded thing you're talking about are called cord locks . You can get them for dirt cheap off of Amazon in all kinds of sizes and hole configurations.
Those thingies need a name!
Turning a pry bar into a pry bar! 🤯
Turn it into a prybar again, then I'll be impressed.
I think it would take more than that to impress you
Dude, it's a slight modification. And if it gets officers to carry a tool and make it more likely that they'll have it with them when they need it then its worth all the criticism
@@johnny_tactical don't be silly mate.
@@johnny_tactical But why, though?
These do make a great tool; I keep a similar one in my BOB and carry it when need is likely. I’d just suggest that time/effort in sanding off the finish etc would be better spent drilling: I put a hole in mine at the end of the “grip” area. That allowed me to do a tight & secure cord wrap grip without glue, plus add a lanyard.
That's awesome, thanks for the comment!
10/10 - I would recommend this 100% - pretty much the exact tool some junkie piece of shit used to burglarize my house a couple of years ago...
Burgle*
Hope you have hardened your home since so that this sort of tool is useless now...
@@ivideo3651 still works
@@raskal5988 I stand correctalized
Very nice tutorial and finished prybar. Thank you for posting this useful video. Subscribed.
You're welcome! So nice to hear from a polite person. It's refreshing.
@@johnny_tactical Regrettably, what is supposedly 'Social Media' tends to attract those whose usual residence is the underside of a rock or bridge, from where they seek attention by conducting themselves in what may only be termed a truly reprehensible manner! You have taken care and invested time and funds into producing a very well presented tutorial which benefits viewers and may encourage them to consider modifying tools to better suit their needs and to apply a paracord wrap properly. How anyone could find fault or wish to abuse you for this is beyond my understanding. Such types were probably found harassing animals and shouting at traffic before the Intetnet allowed them to be despicable to a wider audience!
Thank you for this great tip. Keep up the great work!
Thanks, will do!
You just made me look tactical with your idea and innovation , thanks man , keep the content up
Thanks for the kind words, I’m trying and learning as I go
I was impressed with this idea until I really thought about it. Loss of leverage, comfortable grip. When it gets wet the cordage will become soggy and will contaminate your hands every time you hold it. Contamination with dirt, muck, mold or waste fluids, human waste fluids. Can be used against you if taken away by a combatant while in a scrape. And Harbor Freight sells cats paws. Mini prybars longer than 6-8 inches in usable area above the paracord. I have a 16 inch Craftsman flathead screwdriver that I keep in my Jeep. Same clear handle, spray painted black to not reflect lights at night and has some gravity in it when holding the blade end and swinging the handle like a club. My work used to issue employees a brand new set of screwdrivers every year of employment. I have 5 full size rollaway toolboxes of nearly new tools. Why buy a $5 POS prybar at HF if possibly every pepper watching this video has tools on hand? Still a good idea though D⁹.
Typically these knife/tool videos are either underdone or over the top its clear "tacticool" was the main focus and when he said paracord i really wanted to stop watching he turned a tool into a bent shiv
Tacticool was not the focus. As you can see in the video description I got this idea from NYPD ESU breachers who use this exact same tool modified in this way. I adopted it based on their recommendation and it has proven itself many times over a many years. Thanks for watching
@@johnny_tactical no problem i was glad to watch and i wrote the comment before really understanding the concept i actually now agree this is a viable tool im leaving my initial thoughts up anyway just so people can see it sorry if it came off as a harsh but have you see the spring door breaching tool? I saw it on lockpicking lawyers channel i think they called it a pin destroyer that seems like it could also somewhat apply as both are not only for breaching but within the same length just want your opinion on it
@@judethenekogamer3651 I may not be very imperative to the specific conversation, but that is an item that I would have any day over even the biggest of pry bars. Why be physical when you can be meticulous. That's a very good tool and I'm buying it as soon as I acquire the funds.
Great video Pro tip : use a hair iron to make the paracord a little bit flat
That makes a ton of sense! I will definitely try that out!
Actually, gut the paracord. That's a freebie.
I have got to do this. And since I started tying knots a few years back, I'm going to make me a fancy handle, lol. I do love to modify stuff and this will fit nicely on my Maxpedition bag.
You should make a video out of it too. Messag me if you do so I can watch it
Sounds good! Thanks for watching!
Such a easy diy invaluable tool. Love the simplicity in this
I appreciate the kind words. I'm glad you found it useful.
That's why I got a snap on 3 foot hammer cap prybar and the 21/2 foot adjustable ladysfoot
As a firefighter I carried a Stanley 12" wonderbar. Worked great but what PIA in my pocket. This is a great idea. If the idea is just a more comfortable grip, how about some layer(s) of electrical heat shrink tubing?
Good question. For me reducing size was primary, not to improve the comfort of the grip. But like you said, there are other options and you might find one that reduces size and increases comfort. I have two others that I wrapped the paracord in friction tape just to keep everything together a little better
@@ts757arse That's good info, thank you!
Or just leave the factory handle on it....Having trouble figuring why he removed the perfectly good handle.
Self amalgamating tape gives a rubbery texture, no adhesive built in so notching the bar would be necessary to bind it in place.
@@anvilsbane2196 it's possible you watched with the sound off or skipped ahead... the main point is to reduce bulk so you can store it a bit more easily on your person or kit. But again, it's whatever works for you and your set up. It is not the be-all and end-all.
Great idea! I have an old mini pry bar that needs to be replaced and I think I’m going to have to do this to it, simple and easy!
Glad to hear it. Give it a whirl, post it on IG or FB, and tag me. I'd love to see how it comes out
The right of the people to be secure in their persons, houses, papers, and effects, against unreasonable searches and seizures, shall not be violated, and no Warrants shall issue, but upon probable cause, supported by Oath or affirmation, and particularly describing the place to be searched, and the persons or things to be seized.
The 4th Amendment -- Amen to that! So important!
Hasn't stopped any cop shown on KZhead yet...
try a series of half hitches. its FAR superior, looks way better, and gives you a better gripping surface. this is what any smart sailor uses. btw, did i say durable? you can cut a part of it and it unravels way harder than that method.
Good suggestion! I'll try that on the next one. Thanks for watching!
My maritime brain was going in the same direction. Glad I'm not the only one with this idea.
I like the look of the finished project, though I feel like cutting down a beefier bar would have worked out a bit better. As it stands, this bar is already so small that you've only provided the tool with a less comfortable handle while not really taking that much length off. The paracord wrap should be something that happens to this little thing once the handle inevitably breaks, not as an out-of-the-box mod.
Comfort isn't the primary reason for the paracord, it's to cut down on size (circumference) while giving you something to hold on to.
You can find a breaker bar in the field pretty easily in an urban environment, to slide over the end to increase your leverage.
@@Valorius or shove it down the barrel of your Benelli entry gun. I think you mean cheater bar. A breaker bar is an actual tool.
@@brianwilson4861 Don't be a terminology Karen. The fact that you immediately knew what I was talking about illustrates that your comment was unnecessary. Even if you want to get technical, which apparently you do, once you put a cheater bar on another implement, it becomes a field expedient breaker bar.
@@Valorius Terminology Karen? A breaker bar and a cheater bar are two different tools. The tool you're calling a breaker bar is not a breaker bar. What you're describing is called a cheater bar. It's okay. My girlfriend calls every adjustable wrench a "monkey wrench". She calls Phillips screw drivers "cross head". I took her to the lake and she told me that it was a man made lake. Yes honey I know. "Well isn't it amazing that people dug this entire lake? So do I tell her that the lake used to be a river and they built a dam or do I let her live another 30 years thinking that people dug out 50 billion cubic miles of dirt? Maybe your girlfriend has been hoping someone would tell you that a breaker bar and a cheater bar are two different tools. Here's what OSHA has to say about cheater bars:. All respected international and governmental safety organizations and enforcement agencies such as OSHA, MSHA, CCOHS, EU-OSHA, etc. strictly prohibit or vehemently discourage the use of cheater bars due to the extreme risk of injury or death to users and bystanders I don't think that you even understand why using a cheater bar can kill you. I never thought that fixing your garage door could be dangerous. Until the spring threw the screwdriver threw the wall. I had a friend nearly killed when he struck the mushroomed head of a cold chisel with a hammer. A piece of the chisel head the size of a letter on your screen broke off and shot through his chest like a bullet. You don't put a cheater bar on a pry bar . You spend $10 and buy a bigger pry bar. I've seen a man killed when his cheater bar broke his pipe wrench
I made two of these. Easy modification makes it easier to stash in my kit thanks!
Hey Dave, thanks for letting me know! That’s awesome. I really appreciate you taking the time to comment
Thanks for the idea. I pyramided the flat butt end on my bench grinder into a glass breaker. Works great.
Nice! That’s a great idea. I need to get me a bench grinder. Thanks for the feedback 👍
I appreciate the idea, maybe on a next video, list the pros and cons of your approach. People believe that you only did it for the "tacticool" approach, when in reality, the objective was to make it smaller, more portable. The only issue I see with this is that you lose leverage and I'm pretty sure you can hurt your hand if you use a lot of force. But it's a good starting point if someone wants to customize from there.
Yup, I hear you. Thanks for the constructive criticism, I appreciate you.
A lite scuff sand with extra fine grit should be enough. Avoid sanding off the finish to prevent rusting.
Thanks Clayton
Great video with a great idea. I just found your channel and I’m subscribing. Being a retired lawman I have to support my brothers and sisters still in the fight. IGY6. Stay safe and I’ll see ya down the road.
Thanks for the support. It's a little rough out here
Cool idea. I'd leave the nitride finish on it. More corrosion resistance sure but for one I'm lazy and the second but main reason is that coating will generally hold up longer than your paracord will. If you want some extra bite for the epoxy grab a center punch and dimple it up a bit. Also ding up the corners with a grinder, file or punch/chisel.
I didn't think of that. Thanks Mike
could have also ground the "pommel" part into a point to make a glass breaker, just an idea.
Sounds like a recipe to cut yourself while using it to pry. Better just to carry a dedicated breaker
Don’t need a glass breaker when you have a metal pry bar. That is your glass breaker.
@@lukecurnutte2000 I mean for car windows/laminated glass.
@@The20thCenturyLimitedRickyB so do I. If you can’t easily get into a car window with this, then give up. Can be done with either end but the chisel end has corners that will blow right through a window.
Checo out Tactical Hyve - carrying a paint can opener.
Very useful tool
Nice, especially love that if you keep the cord much longer, in a pinch you can remove the "handle" and have a ready made noose, albeit; a small one.
So clever, you little coyote you
I keep a 24" bar on my bag, right through the Molle loops. Pulls easily, plenty of leverage, doesn't get stuck on anything.
Good deal, Rory. You're ahead of most
Thanks cool tip but I'd like to see a stress test of different brands of pry bars
Thanks for watching and thanks for the feedback
MADE IN CHINA FROM CHINESEIUM...GUARANTEED TO SNAP IN HALF UNDER ANY STRESS.
@@raxxtango you'd be surprised, i dont care how much it costs or where it's made through experience you'll the perfect tools, my advice test to failure and once you find a really we'll made one buy another cuz now you know what it can do...
I would like to see you open a locked door with it metal and solid wood door
I think that he means he uses it to remove doors from their hinges by prying out the hinge pins. Of course the hinges are usually on the interior side of the door. I used to carry one in my tool pouch when I used to install hardwood floors. But it usually was never in my pouch because I'm the kind of person that when I finish a job I don't waste timr putting shit where it goes. I'd throw my shit in the truck and get the hell out of there I'd just use a damn hammer and nail if I couldn't find my prybar. There's no way in hell that anyone could pry open a quality locked exterior door with this prybar.
Great idea! Thanks for the video, brother.
Hey, thanks for watching and commenting, I appreciate it 👍
I Carry a lock pick set in my kit and have become pretty damn good at most all locks. Little lighter then a pry bar and much for quite and quick.
That's great skill to have
This is one of those things that looks very useless and time consuming compared to the normal tool, but actually is worth the time to make.
It's totally worth it!
As opposed to lockpikin
I thought you were going to build the tool not just remove the plastic handle and wrap it with paracord
Sorry to disappoint! I figured it would be easier for everyone to customize/modify an existing product than to forge it from raw steel. Maybe someday I will be able to make one from scratch. Thanks for checking out the video nonetheless!
How else were you expecting to show everyone how to make it?If you need a blacksmith's forge then it wouldn't really be DIY for most people. Creatively adapting an existing tool still counts as DIY.
@@kutter_ttl6786 uuhh buy metal scrap and use a grinder,i mean if your not man enough to buy scrap and own a grinder then you just look at videos for fun
Everyone has suggestions and Monday morning quarterbacking (like most outside of law enforcement) but I don’t see them making any videos! Great idea JT! Nice video and very easy to follow. Also, I like how you critique yourself and give better advice on what the viewer should do to fix it when they make it i.e. longer cord. Many KZheadrs don’t do this and just push out content. Keep up the great content.
I agree! Thanks for the kind words!
Monday morning quarterbacking (like most outside of law enforcement) - you mean suggestions for improvement from viewers? Are you implying LEOs aren't good at taking ideas or suggestions from the public?
Odd Savage, I am open to dialogue and constructive criticism so that I can get better and help others do the same. You have to admit that there are a lot of people that just throw hate for the purpose of throwing hate and don't actually contribute to the conversation. I appreciate you checking out my channel and being part of the conversation.
Solid content. Subbed. Thanks for this.
Much appreciated! Also, love the user name.
I been wrapping tools knives, c even pistol gripswith paracord, leather, nylon, manilla-- even copper but I've never glued anything like all these urban combat guys do-- plus removing the finish means more frequently having to UNwrap to brush the rust off that will ALWAYS collect underneath the cord and cause itcto rot.
The second he said sand paper… my mind was like, rust.
10 years with my three mini pry bars and rust has never been an issue. I take care of my gear, but if you don't, I could see that as a potential problem down the road
@@johnny_tactical I leave the finish on my tools/gear, that’s how I “take care of them.” When I was in the corps, I used to love watching how quickly guys could clean their rifles with metal brushes and harsh chemicals just to have the rust keep coming back faster and faster.
@@johnny_tactical personally I just leave any finish alone and either way, rust wouldn't actually be a problem for a couple years- it mainly eats the cord up and it's a problem for anything you use every day or every other day- I guess you might actually have to use a bar a couple times a year?? At any rate it prolly ain't a big deal
@@ericjohnson8001 you're probably right about that
Can you make a video on how you use it?
I plan on it! Just bare with me, Jovam, it takes me time to churn out videos. If you're not subscribed, make sure you do so you get notified when the next one comes out. Thanks for taking the time to watch it and to comment, I appreciate it.
In case you missed it, here's a video I made that should answer some of your questions: kzhead.info/sun/n7qPds-Sb4SqfJs/bejne.html
Good info, thanks for the video.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. I appreciate it!
I used hockey/grip tape on mine. Ran a loop of cord on the top under the tape to secure it.
Nice!
So this super tacticool tool is for police to use as a Breaking and entering assist.. isn't that illegal?
Not in a rescue situation
Warrantless searches are a thing and backed under case law. Of course stipulations apply.
I rather have a flat bar. It's far more versatile with 2 different prying ends.
This video earned you my subscription love this❤
Thanks for the kind words -- it's a little rough out here.
"Don't be an idiot." - 90% of the internet automatically disqualified.
Ha! That's a great estimate
Congratulations you just made the bar shorter , therefore less leverage .
Not much leverage needed, actually. I've used it for years and it is great otherwise I would not have recommended it
You can always use a pipe for more leverage
@@ExPhantomHD well that’s something else to carry 👎🤦♂️
@@benjaminc8789 you keep it in your truck if your planning on using it
You do understand that the work of a prybar is done by being a lever, right? The longer the lever the greater the force? You've also reduced the strength of the grip you can get on it. You've accomplished making a prybar less effective than it already was for its short length. The only way to make this more gear queer-y is to put a punisher skull on it.
Thanks for watching. It's a small tool for small jobs and to assist seating larger tools, that is all. It's possible I didn't explain that well enough. And for the record, I am anti-punisher skull.
When making entry adrenaline will make that extra 1/2” of missing prybar a non issue as well. I like to watch videos with the sound off too, but I didn’t with this video. Good idea! Thanks for the video
@@mastrsk8 Thanks, I appreciate the kind words
Nice idea. I think I would/will use 2 or 3 pieces of heat shrink tubing with adhesive instead of the paracord.
I like it. Someone else had the same idea. It’s good thinking. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
I watched this over a year ago, but just got around to making one yesterday. Some thoughts. None of these are meant to be negative; I appreciate the time and effort of putting together the video. I think it is a great idea, even for non-LEOs. To the discussion about hardness, I can tell you the handle is either unhardened or has been tempered way back from full hardness. I hit it with both a belt grinder (removing the paint) and a file (to rough it up) and it is not knife-hard. I’ve been happy with the steel in HF axes, but I have no idea about the steel in these pry bars. Point is, you can drill a hole in the handle tip if you want to. Would not recommend drilling a hole farther up the shaft. Also recommend you round off the but end of the pry bar. That is going to come up against the heel of your hand, potentially under a lot of pressure. You want that round and smooth even if you will always use gloves. I found the glue to be unnecessary; paracord-wrapped knife handles never use glue and they are subjected to a lot more twisting, pulling, pushing, and general use than this ever will be. I put the tool in a vise and used both hands to do the wrap. You don’t need to kill it, but I think wrapping it tighter than shown in the video is key to getting a paracord wrap that won’t stretch and wriggle its way undone. Know that the pull-through of the cinch at the top will be very difficult if you get a tight wrap. Again, this is a good thing. But you might have to wrap the tail around something to give you some leverage. Speaking of the tail, go ahead and leave six or eight inches hanging out of the butt end. You can tie a loop and make an attachment lanyard. It was probably gilding the lily, but after I got the wrap complete, I soaked the handle area in Flex Seal (liquid rubber). You could also use Plasti-dip or other such similar stuff. To prep for this, right before I started the wrap, I hit the shaft with some lacquer thinner (acetone) to degrease. I didn’t do this to waterproof the handle, but to effectively lock the paracord in place, and add a little grip to the surface. It remains to be seen how durable this is, but I don’t envision a lot of twisting motion, or really a ton of use of the tool at all. Time will tell.
Love the feedback, I appreciate it 👍 I get the quality of the metal issue, and my original mini pry bar was a Craftsman, which was much better quality. I had a hard time finding that particular shape / style of pry bar which I personally prefer. I like the flex seal idea a lot. I might do another one and use that. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@johnny_tactical Yes, sir. The only reason I brought up the metallurgy was because elsewhere in the comments here there was some… er… discussion about heat treat and quality of steel. From what I can tell, none of that discussion was based on actual knowledge of these tools. I have no idea what steel was used, what parts of it were heat treated, how they were heat treated, and whether they will bend, or break, or bounce back. I only know that the handle shaft seems relatively soft. That is not necessarily a bad thing. My take: these pry bars are perfectly fine for your intended application. I couldn’t break them; I couldn’t bend them. I’m sure if you wrapped a chain around them, and bolted them to your truck bumper, you could bend them. That’s not how you use them, so who cares? As cheap as they are, you could do a destructive test if you really wanted. I’d personally be interested to know if the tips snap easily, but again, I would argue that if you can’t do this by yanking the handle with your hand, anything else is purely academic. Heat treating of tools, to include edged tools like knives and chisels, is a balancing act. Take a cold chisel for example. If you quench that tool steel perfectly, and get it as hard as you can, you will have excellent edge retention (it won’t easily dull). However, the first time you strike it with a hammer, it will shatter like it’s made of ceramic, and quite possibly injure you. If you temper it way back, or don’t heat treat it at all from annealed steel, it will be too soft; it won’t hold an edge, and the striking surface will mushroom over. Unusable in either case. So the tool maker has to treat it to the perfect hardness to get both toughness, and hardness. Can we expect that HF had all this diligence with their $5 pry bar? Maybe.
Too much work for me. I don’t see the factory handle as a problem.🤷♂️
That's okay, it's all about what works for you
I'd love to try and see you open an actual secure door with that. 🤣
Been there, done that, and in real life, too. I wouldn't put it out there if I didn't use it personally. Thanks for watching, I appreciate you!
In my course of instruction I tell everybody to carry one of these I have the Broco Jimmy so important in a go bag or on your person.
Nice! And thanks for what you do. We need good instructors out there
I like the idea of thinning down the handle a bit, but think there are better solutions than paracord. Like taking the existing handle to a belt sander and shaping it. Then adding a lanyard hole is never a bad idea. Those of us with 3D printers can also whip something up that glues on as a replacement.
I like the suggestions and I like your username 👍
So you took a perfectly good handle and replaced it with a crappy handle 👌
It's a modification for a specific purpose -- to reduce size and bulk. Plus it's like handicrafts for operators. What's better than that?
@@johnny_tactical your tacticool "key to the city" is a joke. You went looking for a solution to a non-existent problem. The result ended being an inferior tool.
@@richardcontinijr9661 it actually works really well. I've carried one for over 10 years. I believe in it otherwise I would not have recommended it
@@johnny_tactical ok ok I understand withdrawal is a terrible thing to go through. Copium is a powerful drug.
I call this the key to the city.😎 Its literally a prybar with a paracord wrap 🤡
Yes, but that name doesn't have much of a ring to it
@W K I appreciate you!
Thank you thank you so much i Was going to spend 70 dollars on one from a military store in Europe...i got a Normal One from 15 dollars from a store 30 inches One but i needed One alot smaller to Carry on my backpack and chest Rig...and Also plate Carrier specially since the Old One hás alot of more wheight
Good to hear! Glad you found it helpful
Hey there Johnny "what's a half-hitch" tacticool - The whole point of adding Paracord to anything is so you can wind some off when needed.
Not always. I think the bracelets when they got popular started to make us all think that way. I carry a length of paracord ready to go in my kit.
So, cops can go anywhere they want without a warrant and yeah seems like a criminal video to me.... Makes me angry. Thanks for the security update.
Its nearly to the American VS the tyrant, AKA Road Pirate, AKA blue line terrorist group just to stay safe. They chose their side already, becoming more obvious just how many by the day.
Brandy, no, police can't go anywhere without a warrant. Firefighters have all kinds of tools for entering vehicles and buildings -- they have them to save lives and so do we.
@@johnny_tactical Except for when you are killing innocents when you arrive at the wrong address or kill someone in a swatting incident or any of the other thousands of things cops are doing now because they are above the law.
I try to always cooperate with police because they are so dangerous and, my career depends on cooperation. That being said, I've had all kinds of bad shit happen that egotistical officer's have done. Way over the line, unprofessional, dangerous to themselves, an the public. (.label me a criminal, I don't care.) I'm on on alert when dealing with police. Many Agencies out of control. The court and legal system is 80% total failure. Police in general have a bad reputation...ti bad because they serve a vital function in civilization. The few bad ones totally fuck it up for the majority of good ones.
@@jsauerii I'm sorry you feel that way
An 11 minute video to show you how to put Paracord on a 12" pry bar... Wow now this is good content
Glad you liked it!
Like this idea. The only add I will do is grinding the top into a round pointed window breaker. Have a 1/4 inch out of the top of the 550 cord. I carry and old style military issue wire cutters. Great for cyclone fencing. This tool would be a great addition.
Good idea. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@johnny_tactical glad I found you channel.
@@Catspurrlounge Wow, thank you, that means a lot
Thanks for sharing
Cool video and some useful information. Weird the way this one video on your channel really blew up in views.
I wish I knew what happened so I can do it again!
@@johnny_tactical every once in awhile the algorithm just grabs a video and boom...it's off you go.
What I love about KZhead. 99.9.% of the time you can go back to what you forgot to make. Made 4 for the team. Thanks.
That’s awesome, Eddie, glad to hear it. If you have time take some pictures and tag me on FB or IG, I’d love to see your handiwork
Short length of appropriate sized rubber hose and construction adhesive neatly applied; ✅
Do what works for you, that's the whole idea -- to get the wheels turning
Don't know if you've tried it but bank line works even better. As a bonus...it won't soak up water/sweat and its slightly tacky so more grippy. Stay safe out there Brother!
Thanks Mike, I haven’t heard of bank line but I’m about to Google it
@@johnny_tactical it’s smaller diameter than paracord but does come in different sizes. I usually get #24. About 1/8” thick. Also great for tying a chicken leg to and catching crabs on the bank ;)
Heat shrink instead of paracord would be a grippy handle that would probably hold up better
Taking a prybar and making a prybar...brilliant...
Modified...hello!
God man you are a frikin funkin genius, wow, holy macarel. Thankyou for that
No, thank YOU
Seems like you could double loop it to leave a small loop at the top. It could be clipped on to something or hung in a locker for storage etc.
Yup, great point. I did that with one and could have mentioned it in the video. Thanks for leaving a comment that is actually helpful
I really like it!
Could be a good idea to grind the end into a bit of a point/pommel for breaking windows
That's a good idea. I appreciate constructive criticism
Nice video brother, got a new subscriber here 👍🏻
Thanks Alex, I appreciate the kind words. It can be rough out here
Thanks for the vid… question on the one you are showing how you carry it, is that a different one? If so what did you do different at the end of the handle? Thanks again
Yes, that's the one I use at work every day, not the one I made in the video. What's different with that one is that when I wrapped the handle I made a small loop at the end so I could attach a tether to it. I used a tether when it was on my SWAT vest so I wouldn't lose it in case I dropped it. You can make it the same way, just instead of pulling out all the slack at the end tie a loop and trim the excess.
@@johnny_tactical awesome I understand what u did now with the extra. Thanks for the rapid response and your service
@@Athreehourtour It's my pleasure
Good stuff! subbed
Thank you! Love the username
I think i have the tools to make this laying around. Great idea!
Give a whirl and let me know how it goes, and if you can, post it and tag me so I can see it. Thanks for watching!
Awesome! More of this please! Wow, $5?! I can't find one under $15 anywhere!
Thanks for watching, I appreciate you!
This is so cool
As a glazier I don't need any swat tools to make entry to buildings, all I need is a glazing bar. Pop the stops, move the glass, I'm in. 2 mins tops, no broken glass, door jambs or locks. 😉
Maybe I'll call you sometime....
Good storage ideas.
Thanks Lee
Nice tips !!!!!
Thank you and God bless Texas!
I see you decided to place a giant snag right where a rifle sling should go. Sounds legit.
Show me a tac vest with nothing that could possibly snag a sling and I will show you a shirtless operator with no vest. You've got to arrange your kit to work for you -- lefty vs. righty, what you carry, where you carry it, etc. But thanks for watching and commenting.
“Tactical Muscle”. Love it!!!
Thanks Jesse...I work out.
Pretty Sweet!
Thanks!
Good tip.
Thanks Jimmy!
great idea - thx
Thank you for checking it out, I appreciate you
That retention clip on the shock cord is called a barrel lock.
Finally, thank you!
Aka cord lock.
Also plasty dip might be a good option too
If we don’t cut and burn the ends does that make it not super tactical?
You should made the video title something like “trash to treasure” since it’s not a DIY but a really useful improvement! That worked well for a similar video I did.
Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate you watching and commenting 👍