Forging the wrapped eye axe - part 1
Forging a wrapped eye axe does not require working with the heavier material used when punching the axe eye. This makes a wrapped eye easier for the small shop without a power hammer. You dio need to be comfortable with forge welding however.
My name is John Switzer, thank you for watching. Black Bear Forge is a small one person shop located in the Southern Colorado Mountains
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My blacksmiths apron
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To find more information in blacksmithing in the US or to search for your local ABANA affiliate group visit.
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Blacksmithing tools and supplies
Self contained air hammers - www.saymakhammers.com/
General blacksmithing supplies - www.oleoacresfarriersupply.com/
General blacksmithing supplies - www.piehtoolco.com/
General blacksmithing supplies - www.centaurforge.com/
General blacksmithing supplies - www.blacksmithsdepot.com/
General blacksmithing supplies - www.blacksmithsupply.com/
Square head bolts and lags - www.blacksmithbolt.com/
New anvils - www.oldworldanvils.com/
New anvils - www.nimbaanvils.com/
New anvils -
Industrial supplier - www.mcmaster.com
Tong blanks and tools - kensironstore.com/
Fire brick and refractory - refwest.com
Blacksmithing and related activities can be hazardous. These videos are not a substitute for competent professional instruction. Your safety is your sole responsibility. Always use appropriate safety equipment including eye and ear protection when working in the shop. Follow manufactures safety guidelines for the use of all equipment. In the event something shown in one of these videos seems unsafe, it is up to you to make the appropriate changes to protect yourself.
I have been watching so many of your videos lately. They’re so good. I wish I could get into smithing but I am only 18 and don’t have the money or resources yet. I took metals last semester in school but that’s really just welding and I’m taking a woods class this semester. I love to work with my hands like that and plan on saving money to buy and make a shop of my own some day with wood working/carpentry capabilities, to welding, smithing, leather working, and so on. Your videos kind of inspired this so thanks I guess 😂
hey buddy have you had a chance to acquire a forge set up :)
Hey Bud, how's the dream going? Gotten to do any blacksmithing yet?
May be 2 years old, but bbn is probably the best how to on yt.
"I like pointy ears... Like a Vulcan." I knew I liked you! 🖖
9:54 "I like nice pointy ears, like a Vulcan." Ha! I knew I wasn't the only trekkie blacksmith! :D
What's a vulcan
@@joeball5937 like Spock from Star Trek TV series and Movie series. Some old some newer.
I love making folded axes and hatchets! I even finished a 3.5lb wrought iron and 5160 axe last night. I'll be keeping it to build a cabin and smithy! Good job John, yours are probably much nicer than mine. Lol
Excellent star trek reference! I love the time you took for set up. Thanks for the lesson on layout and the great project!!
I noticed that nearly every video has a couple of thumbs down and ask myself. - What is there here for them not to like?!! I just do not get it. These videos are so full of great techniques, so well presented. I'm hooked.
Thanks for lighting up Ol' Smokey. I like that you sketched out the plan for us on the white board before you started.
Agreed, the whiteboard was a nice touch for those of us learning.
Ears like a Vulcan, my favorite part
I wish there was a stronger button than a simple thumbs up for this video! Looking great so far and I can't wait to see the rest of this axe come to life, followed by my attempt to duplicate it. Love your work and your videos. Thank you so much for sharing, I always looking forward to watching your videos.
"Don't like the soft round ears, I like pointy ears like a Vulcan!" Let that geek flag fly John.
This channel has definitely become the Bible of blacksmithing. Thanks for another great video. - Josh
Thanks
That's quite the system for repeatability. Excellent video. I like the overnight normalizing.
Nice! Can't wait for part 2! 🐾🔥⚒🧛♂️
Love watching you make stuff, you talking through your thinking as you work is priceless, thanks John!
John, I’m really enjoying the cinematography lately. Your videos are looking more like instructional videos than just a video from a phone camera.
Thanks. I am glad the effort is showing.
So excited for this, I've been waiting for you to do this video for ages! I'm gonna order some stock this week so I can get started- you have the best informative blacksmith videos on the internet
I really enjoyed this one, John. Thank you.
Thanks John. Love all your videos
Thanks for sharing such a beautiful blacksmith skill
I've got a little forge and anvil at home that I've used to do some basic stuff. I think I might use this to try something a bit more ambitious!
I've been wanting to see how you make this style axe for sooooooo long!! YAY Looking farward to the next video 👍
I am looking forward to the next 2 videos.
Always like to come back to your vides as a reference before starting a new project. Good to refresh my memory on certain procedures and techniques
Thank you for this video. You do such an awesome job and inspire to keep learning
Great video, l can’t wait to try a wrapped eye axe .. thanks for the fantastic information
This was super helpful and very instructive thank you.
Sweet!!! Thanks John. ⚒ on!!
Very well explained and detailed instructional video. Thanks for sharing...
Awesome job sir
Thanks for sharing this is the part I have the most trouble with the marking up is a great idea
Definitely making this. I've been thinking about a small to medium axe, this is it.
Very instructional video, thank you
Its like you read my mind sometimes. I was just looking at one of these that my friends dad had made yesterday. Thanks again as always sir
Cant wait 4 part 2!
I found a broadax made that way in the mountains of North Alabama when I was a kid. Often wondered how they did that. Now I know. Got it in my forge. Thanks John great video
I made one about a month ago and wasn't very great! LOL Now that you are making videos on this I am sure the next will be much better. Thank you for your videos they are always outstanding!
Thanks , My try last week failed and ended very burned up. Glad you giving me guts to try again...
real good video, i like it , good explain and shown, easy to understand from germany greetings
I’m such a fan of your work John! October can’t come soon enough!
I agree with u on ears pointed look much better than round. Waiting for part2
I'm going master this,I need that forge weld mostly Thanks
Very nice and informative. Thx.
great job
very helpful video , thank you
Hay John you have been teaching me almost 8 months.I don't thinkI'll mark my blank as yours ,As mine will have a long hatchet handle my eye is the more rectagaul shape much like them on mason hammers.But you are teaching me to addapt your workings to fit my needs Thanks as so many times before.
Good stuff
Thank you, great instruction.
You are welcome
I like the depth of field.. looks very nice
Thanks. This was entirely done with manual lenses that have wider apertures.
I have managed to decryptify the hieroglyphics, the metal piece needed to make the axe, is approximately (228.6 * 38.1 * 13). The numbers are in millimeters. The markings on one side are (6.35mm) from the centre line. On the other side the markings are (88.9mm) from the centre line.
Your hammer blows sound so angry just plain beating the metal into submission I love it lol keep hitting
👍 for the Trekkie reference.
JOHN you definitely have the most instructional Blacksmith videos i have seen the way you explain the way to do what has to be done is as good as privet lessens so thunk you for sharing PS how your knee
Thanks. The knee is about 90% better
Make me one for bushcraft 👍
Great channel chief I just subscribed. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us I'm about to get into blacksmithing and I'm still in the research faze but your channel sure is giving me much more info than I could even ask for! Maybe I'll check back a year from now :) I'll be posting videos on my channel although they won't be anywhere near as good as yours.
They won't be instructional at all lol because I obviously won't know too much of what I'm doing but it might be fun for some to see a beginner trying to figure it out lol.
Welcome to the family
Love how the wedge went for a 3 pointer after striking Lol
I'm just loving this new craft question when using a Gass forge how do you know if your getting to much oxygen when welding the blades together
Excellent video John, I've forged a number of my axes this way...
Nice. I have been keen to watch this since seeing it on Insta.
John you are far from boring, but I have the hardest time staying awake through the forging. The hitting of the hammer seems to lull me right to sleep. Good thing it doesn't when I am doing the hitting...... :)
I know exactly how you feel
Opss after rewatching you did advise to fit measurements for my drift .. I will listen better before judgement. Sorry below and always Thanks Sir
I enjoyed this a lot. I have made a small axe head by this method, but only once, and seeing your take on the process is very helpful. Thanks!
Nice details in the explanation. Thanks. Could you use this method and make two halves then weld them together for a double-bit axe, with two bits of the 1075? Of course you wouldn't need the two sets of ears and the pols.
Yes, I have done a couple that way.
@@BlackBearForge thanks
Your videos are fantastic I really enjoy them so many useful tips. I was just wondering if you wouldn't mind saying what grade of steel you use for each project?
It’s just mild steel unless otherwise specified.
@@BlackBearForge thank you very much.
I have already made many folded axes with the technique you presented in this video and had great success with it. Now I am thinking about making my first double bit axe but i am not able to make a drift holes in my shop. So i started thinking and thought about constructing it with two strait pieces like the ones you would make for a forge welded-axe and then welding the two faces together. Do you think that this is possible? I have my concerns about splinting the weld with the handle-wedge and the fatigue over time. I really would appreciate your, and everyone else thoughts about this :)
Splitting the weld is a risk. But if done well the risk would be minimal. Wedging at 90 degrees to the eye would reduce the risk a great deal.
once more sorry, which cameras are you using? some of the shots are gorgeous!
I was wondering if you've ever made a french-style throwing tomahawk I have one but it's a a cast made tomahawk I would like to learn how to hand forge them would love to watch a video of you making one then I'm sure I would be able to learn to make them
I doubt it, but I'm not sure what a French style is.
@@BlackBearForge A French style tomahawk the top is curved upward starting at the back of the handle eye. The blade then is about three fourths to one inch from the top down and the eye is about two inches long. The blade tapers to about four inches. I would send a picture but don t know how to. I thought you might enjoy making one because they are a little different
Hi. Thanks for all this. Could I use also a carbon steel from a file to weld in the axe or is it impossible to fireweld the two materials. What do I need to consider. Thanks.
When making an axe this way it is usually a mild steel body with a higher carbon edge welded in. A file would work well, but be careful to temper it back far enough not to be brittle. I find the 5160 makes a very durable edge for chopping
⚒👌
Who knew John was a Trekkie
Not very hard core
Could you make an adze this way if you forge weld without forging the axe bit, and then instead just forge out an adze bit?
You can, just weld the steel edge to one side
Now I know axes and adses are your bread and butter. Any idea how many axes you've forged?
Several hundred. But not as many as someone like Liam Hoffman.
John can i ask, in the interest of making things easier for the lay out in forging, is it easier to not shape the blade and just leave it as rectangle stock after you forge the cheeks so that when you fold and bring it all together you can weld it and its all nice and square and lines up nice then draw out the shape and do the cut and split method to insert the tool steel cutting face and weld that in? Just thinking in terms of keeping everything symmetrical up to the point of forge welding the 2 halves.
I have done it both ways. One problem with having a lever mass to forge down is that the mild steel moves faster under the hammer than the tool steel. This can lead to cold shut where it overlaps the edges or even weld shear in some cases. But the main reason I don’t is that I need a much thicker piece of tool steel when doing it that way. Otherwise by the time you thin the blade the tool steel is very thin and if the forging isn’t perfectly even it might not come out away from the sharpened edge.
Great question and answer. Thank you both.
@@BlackBearForge ahhh that makes perfect sense. Thanks heaps.
John ; Sir I seldom see (or think any fault to your teachings but) .. Should the layout be based on the handle ( as they are many size and style). Perhaps I am wrong but I wanted a long hammer handle mostly because I have a place near by to buy replacements if I need. So I am filling the need to change measurements . Also I have a drift that I already built by hammer and forge ,And want to get on with this build. Sir this is not a complaint. As always Thank you for your guidance Sir.
Starting with a handle and making your drift to match is a good way to go. Or if you are making your own handle make the drift the shape you want then the eye and then the handle
Rub chalk dust into stampings on pattern so we can see.
Hi John. Great video. Just wondering, if you're alone in the shop, no cameras, no talking, things going reasonably well, how long from layout to finished axe, does it take to make one like this??
For the forging, about an hour. Then theres the grinding and heat treating on another day.
That anvil looks enormous, how many lbs. is that beauty?
Its was.sold as 308 lb. but I haven’t bothered to weigh it myself.
Is this how all forged axes are made? Like, is it possible to make an axe head by just shaping a big block and driving an eye through?
There are lots of ways to make an axe.I have a few other videos showing the punched eye method.
What are the flakes that constantly fly off when you are pounding the metal? Does better metal produce less flakes? Is it carbon that lives inside the metal?
Its called scale and is an iron oxide that forms at high heat. Its just a normal part of the process.
@@BlackBearForge - Than you for explaining - I thought it was some type of impurity - I’ve been really enjoying your videos, you are a great teacher explaining every step - it’s really a class in forging and not just random videos - excellent 👍
Would someone be able to explain what the ears on an axe are for? Or are they more just a place to move excess material when making a wrapped eye axe?
They are as mention, a natural outcome of forging and moving the material. They also add more surface area for the handle to contact. But mostly they look good
@@BlackBearForge Ah, Thank you, I must have missed that part.
I have attempted making 3 axe heads, all with the same problems: At the Pole inside, several have cracked half way thru or form a folded divot. I used the dimensions that you laid out. After the ears are formed, that part of the axe is about 1/4" thick. The metal is heated and folded just like you show. Then the front of the eye is matched. The metal at the pole is still curved. Next, I pound on the sides of the eye and at the pole to straighten the sides of the eye. That is when I believe the cracks are formed. The cracks are probably "cold shuts". ??How do I close the eye and not form the cold shuts in the process??
Did you solve this issue? I’m trying this method on Saturday and curious how it has worked out for you since you commented
@@NK-ne9uf Follow the video exactly. Keep the steel orange to bright red. Keep all radiuses as large as possible when fullering. When folding the halves together, try to not make the bend at the head any sharper than 90 deg. The fold should not result in a sharp inside corner. Let me know how the axe turns out.
@@paulrohrbacher7795 thanks for the tips! And I will 😁
@@NK-ne9uf how did your axe head gorging go? I will be forging axe heads next week.
@@paulrohrbacher7795 we practiced forge welding yesterday with horse shoes. Made them into circles and made a chain for practice
Iv tried making these in the past but I just can't forge weld the tip any tips on how or what I might be doing wrong
Start the first forge welding pass at the back of the kerf so that all of the junk start squeezing out the front. Stop forging just before you loose welding heat and get it hot again, slowly working your way out to the edge
@@BlackBearForge I tried that but it just won't stick I think I'm not getting it up to welding heat or working it past welding heat
This is an old video and i don't see you comment but where did you get the thick stock? biggest i found is 1/4
Its all available from any good supplier. The mild steel stock I buy from a local steel warehouse, most larger cities should have something. The tool steel I generally buy online.
Sorry something came up what are the dimensions of the mild steel I think I missed it
This may have been mentioned in the video but I was wondering if anyone could please tell me what type of metal was used here?
The body is mild steel and the cutting edge is usually 5160 or 1075 for the axes I make
Thanks heaps for the reply! I’m such a big fan of your channel. All the best from Bannockburn, Australia!
How do you avoid cracks and cold shuts?
Careful attention to heat and how the metal is moving?
Proper set up and forging at high heat are the two main things.
From what I saw proper set up of fullering and attention to when you start doing half faced blows will reduce that problem. That is what I gathered from john’s instruction as well as what I have experienced from work at my anvil. John your channel is truly a teaching channel. I am glad that an older guy such as yourself has hurdled the tech barrier. Thank you for all you share.
Is the 1/2x1-1/2 piece just mild steel?
Yes. The only tool steel will be the 1075 cutting edge
@@BlackBearForge Is there any concern about the body distorting under normal use given the mild steel? (Very) Amateur blacksmith here ;)
If it is used as an axe, no. But if used as a hammer or as a splitting wedge and driven with a hammer, yes
What is a good website to buy tongs from
Blacksmith supply has a good selection www.blacksmithsupply.com/Tongs_c_11.html
Thank u sir
Whats the dimension on this start piece in cm? for us europeans. thanks
Sorry I forgot to do the conversion. That’s about 13mm X 40mm X 200mm. But axes like this have been made in many sizes and all over the world.
@@BlackBearForge Thank you.
Hey im finally first keep it up with axe toutorials
🏆
Is this the guy from mythbusters?
Sorry but...when I listen to you, it reminds me on Bob Ross a bit..😁
Can the loss of carbon from the job be controlled by the position in the fire?
To a small degree yes.
Lol you'll be making swords before you know it
I don’t know. I’ve been making axes 20 years and still not into swords.
@@BlackBearForge I love the axe. Been wanting to make one and this video will definetly help