Prusa Live Z Calibration and extra sheet setup (on newest firmwares)
2019 ж. 8 Жел.
45 024 Рет қаралды
Hope this is helpful if you accidentally run Cal XYZ or Wizard and now you can't get filament to adhere to the bed, and now you're stuck unable to print.
Didn’t know you can save settings for different steel sheets. Huge tip! Thanks Lee!
I guess it is kinda randomly asking but does anybody know a good place to stream newly released series online ?
@Salvatore Dash Flixportal =)
@Kristopher Saul thanks, signed up and it seems like a nice service :D Appreciate it!!
@Salvatore Dash no problem =)
Great Video Sir .. Calibration is done after help from the content. Have a nice day.
Thank you
How thick is the test print supposed to be? That is all I need to know. I have calipers so I can peel it up and measure it. All this how it looks stuff is arbitrary.
Nice tutorial, is there anyway to just print the last rectangular feature in the hardware setup to fine tune? Any chance you could include a image of what the last feature should look like with better resolution? How does one tell that they are in the sweet spot for Z adjustment besides the played layers blending together well without separations? Thanks
You can re-run first layer cal, it will do the zig zag and the square; you can refer to hi-res images in the prusa kb: help.prusa3d.com
@@LA3DPrinterRepair Hi-res Images 1) cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-800x318.jpg 2)i.redd.it/ms9o3lqcns881.png
That is, how things can be explained easily... not 100 minutes blah, just the things you need to know, thanks.
Thank you Frank, glad you found it helpful.
I purchase a Prusa Printer pre assembled, I have been using PLA and it has been flawless. I just switched to TPU onto a textured prusa sheet and my Z calibration is off due to the 0.300 change in height im guessing. Given I only do a single print with TPU, should I just adjust the Live Z during the print to compensate, what is best practice for something like this. Using Prusa MK3+
Yes or set up the adjustment for this material and sheet combination on a second sheet. You can save settlings for multiple sheers on the LCD
I didn't know about the multiple sheet setting either. Would this imply that you you may have a different calibration result by just flipping the same sheet? So maybe It should be Sheet 1, Side A, Sheet 1 Side B... etc
Probably not, both sheets of PEI would likely be from the same roll, and I'd bet the roll is consistent, and likely fairly consistent roll to roll.
Contrast is OK. You need to change view angle when you're filming LCD panels.
Hello guys, since 3 days ago I'm trying to print my first piece in my new MK3 unsuccessful. I don't have any gripe in the Prusa bed! I've tried many technics like glue, propanol alcohol, grass clean, etc... unsuccessful! Do you have any ideas?
Cleyton Silva did you perform pre-flight steps to adjust the PINDA before setting Live Z? Feel free to reach out via la3dpr.com and we’ll be happy to help.
Do you use a glue stick?? I feel like my Z live calibration is good.....but my prints aren't sticking. They stick at first, but by the time it puts down the 2nd layer, it's not sticking.
vio4jesus we only use glue stick in the front corner for the prime line when printing lots of PET; bed prep is about which bed you’re using (textured/smooth) and what material you’re printing: textured PEI should never be treated with acetone, smooth sheets should be kept clean with alcohol, and refreshed with pure acetone, if it gets oily from fingerprints and lots of streaks remain after acetone wipe down, you should rinse and dry in the sink with dawn dish detergent to cut the oils, then re-treat with acetone, and your PLA adhesion should be as good as new. When printing PET on textured or smooth it’s vital you use an interference agent like Windex, or you risk permanent bonding to the PEI; and when switch back and forth PLA/PET you must treat the bed appropriately for each material or risk lift (PLA) or permanent bond (PET).
@@LA3DPrinterRepair I'm confused - I'm troubleshooting my z layer but I'm using glue stick all over the plate - if permanent bonding is a risk, why only put glue stick in the front corner (prime line)? I've just done a soapy water clean, then ISO, then glue stick. The calibration test finished before I got the z correct (it's still too high). So should I now windex clean it to get all the glue off then go back to soap and water then ISO again? I think maybe I'm missing the WHY so that I know how to interpret WHAT to do. Thank you for your video, it's getting me closer. I also read something about not to do certain types of cleaning too often (soap? ISO? Acetone? windex?) but I'm confused about that too.
Tried again, z calibration looks great now, no curling at edges for my PETG but for my actual model print after the first big outlines, the 1cm circles for some holes in my model, it stops laying down plastic and it's all accumulating on the nozzle after which everything goes downhill. Not sure what causes that.
@@andrewblair7478 for PLA refresh the sheet with acetone, for PET, you want a separation layer, Windex works. The obstacles are: dust, fingerprints (oil), and proper z-calibration; refreshing occasionally with acetone will eliminate 1 and 2 as sources of trouble.
How do you calibrate the panda sensor height. Mine got loose so it is out of cal?
Follow “Preflight” steps in the assembly manual. 👍🏻
So by default it uses sheet 1 if you have'nt selected any sheet to start with?
Something like that.
I'm still having trouble after trying to do this step for days
Contact us to arrange a repair!
Well, hi!
So you're able to eyeball the line to see that it's .5 millimeter wide. My eyeballs aren't calibrated for that. It would be nice if you had some more straightforward way of knowing when it's the correct width.
It’s not a critical adjustment, as long as the line is “squished” and not “smashed” to the point of choking the extruder, it’s fine. The square is where you can determine if you’re “not in the neighborhood”, “close enough to print” or “too close for comfort”.
@@LA3DPrinterRepair Thank you so much for your reply. I've been running the First Layer Calibration over and over again, zeroing in on the proper layer. I have a digital caliper and finally got the First Layer lines just about right at .5 mm. The rectangle feels fairly nice and smooth, at least compared to Z height above and below the one I zeroed in on. That rectangle is about .25 mm thick. Is that what I should expect? I had been using my PRUSA for about 6 months, using PRUS's sliver PLAY and it went great for all that time with lots and lots of prints. I ran out of the sliver PLA and wanted to purchase more from PRUSA but it was out of stock, so I bought their "Gentlement's Grey" PLA instead, figuring a color change shouldn't be a problem. But it just doesn't work. It doesn't stick to the bed well, it globs up, it catches on a part of the print and rips it up from the bed. I've run the XYZ Calibration several times, I've run the First Layer Calibration a bunch of times. And now, even after really zeroing in the Z height, per your suggestions, it's still messing the prints. I'm thinking I might just have gotten a bad batch of the PLA from PRUSA. Do you have any suggestions?
Roger Garrett if you’re using the smooth PEI sheet then you need to refresh it periodically with pure acetone to keep it locked in, gets jammed up with pigment, oil, and particles of plastic.
@@LA3DPrinterRepair Acetone!? Really? Wow. I've never seen acetone suggested for cleaning. The PRUSA user manual only mentions isipropyl alcohol, and even includes some small pads of it with the kit. That isopropyl alcohol is what I've been using ever since I got the printer. And, yes, it's for the smooth bed. I've had suggestions for using really hot water and dish detergent, which I tried but had no success with. The closest I have on hand is nail polish remover which is mostly acetone but also has some other ingredients (fragrance and such). Would that be safe to use to clean the bed? Something as strong as acetone I'd be afraid would just strip off the surface of the bed!
Ah ha! I just did a search for "PRUSA refresh bed" and it has a bunch of info about refreshing the bed, including using acetone but cautioning AGAINST using nail polish remover. So, I guess I'm off to the hardware store for some acetone.