Easy Trick For Scribing Kitchen End Panels
2022 ж. 2 Шіл.
274 114 Рет қаралды
In this video I am sharing a very simple but really useful way to fit Kitchen End Panels. I have been taught a couple of different ways in the past, but I have found this one to be the best and wanted to share it with others. Please consider liking the video and subscribing.
Thank You For Watching!
Track: Inukshuk - The Long Road Home [NCS Release]
Music provided by NoCopyrightSounds.
Listen: • Inukshuk - The Long Ro...
Free Download / Stream: ncs.io/TLRHYO
Thank you to everyone watching! I have just uploaded a new video called ‘How to Make a Portable Workbench’ it would be great if you could check it out!😄👍🏼
If possible always cut the top edge off leaving a factory sealed bottom edge that doesn’t soak up water when the floor is mopped and then blow. If you are really forced to cut the bottom edge make sure it’s sealed properly. Good scribing method
Yeah i agree with what you have said for sure. I do always seal the bottom and also seal round it with silicone. I should have mentioned that in the vid!
I was looking for this comment before I said the same thing, that going to swell with water and ruin the kitchen, cut up edge
@@desertrose9919 If the floor is out of level, you will have to scribe and cut the bottom, just seal the cut edge!
If it's a remodel the floors aren't always perfect so you'll have no choice but cut the bottom edge. You can always edge band it with a similar color before installing or seal it with a liquid product or silicone.
I agree. Never cut a panel at the floor. Caulking isn't helping. Caulking and it's evil twin "quarter-round" has no place in a "job well done" execution...in my opinion 😊
Pro tip, I ALWAYS face those clamps in towards the cabinet whenever possible. Taking one to the eye is a terrible experience
That is a top tip! I have a close call daily but still forgot every time i use them to face them the other way😂 thanks for watching!
thats why you should always have safety specs on
I guess you didn’t see it coming?
@@naebadyerselI’m more worried about my Nutz.
Top tip, I've got a lovely scar on my head from one of those
❤ the tip about using the shelves to conceal the screws securing the panel to the cabinet.
Glad you liked it! Thank you for the comment😁👍🏼
Much easier and quiker than the way I've been doing it for years. You've just made my life that bit easier. Thanks
No worries, happy to help! Thank you
Nice work. I’ve been fitting for about 7 years now, I think you’ve just taught me my new method. Thanks 👍
Thank you for watching! If you give it a go you will have to let me know how you get on!👍🏼
... and this is the simple task, done by the more complicated way...
I personally find it easier this way and once you have the off cuts of timber saved you can keep re-using them for multiple end panels. But it’s just my opinion😄 thank you for watching
Difficult concept with a super simple method many thanks 👏🏾
Thank you for watching!
Simple but very effective, thanks for the tip!
Thank you! Happy to help!👍🏼
Great video, will hopefully save so much time the next time I do a kitchen install! Hope to see more videos from you :)
Thank you! I personally find it so much easier doing it this way but you will have to let me know how you get on with it! I have plenty of them planned soon. Thank’s for watching!👍🏼
Looks good You timed the drop of the beat with the final fitting. Noice.
Thanks a lot! Well noticed :)
I've never done it like that but I like it 👍
Excellent - thanks for sharing!
No worries, thanks👍🏼
Just been doing this in my kitchen. It's fantastic!! Thank you 👏
No worries! Appreciate the comment😄👍🏼
Genius! Thank you, this will be handy in a few days when my cabinets are in.
Glad it was helpful! I’m interested to know how you get on so please let me know! Thanks for commenting!😄
Never seen it done like this before, Thanks for sharing👍🏼
No problem, Thanks Jay
Tried this method and it worked a treat😁
Glad to hear it!😄
Awesome technique, I've just done two panels to perfection doing it this way. Thanks for sharing!
Glad it worked out well for you! Thank you for watching😄👍🏼
Really enjoyed this. I put an island together for the first time today. Got 2 end panels to do tomorrow. The techniques here look spot on for me. Thanks for sharing.
You’re welcome, thanks for watching! You will have to let me know how you get on with it! Look forward to hopefully hearing back from you!😄
Spot on helped me out👍🏻
Happy to help!😁 Thanks a lot for watching!
Great tip , every day a school day thanks
Thank you! Glad you liked it! And that saying is very true👍🏼
Same block method i use for architraive scribes . Never thought about using it for end panels .. thanks . Every dsy is a school day
It definitely is! Thanks a lot😁👍🏼
Awesome video - THANK YOU for sharing 58 yr lady giving it a go .. tall panals are blinking heavy when working alone !! I can't blame anyone for the walls and floors being out - I did them ;)
Thank you! You will have to let me know how you get on! Hopefully the little trick works well for you! Haha yeah they will hopefully be spot on then!😆👍🏼
Awesome!
Thanks a lot! Appreciate the comment😁
Awesome, thanks for the great tip! You took a chance pre drilling the side panel holes and not popping out the other side, but I imagine a pro can “feel” the right depth 😊
Appreciate the comment! Thank you👍🏼 haha yeah i suppose it is a bit risky but on the plus side… I haven’t bust through one yet😆 Hopefully, i will still be able to say the same in the future🤞🏼😆 if you’re not that used to drilling holes a little bit of masking tape works well as a depth marker
I’m pretty sure he knows the lengths of the screws
Followed your video and finished my project nicely 🙏🏻
Thank you for watching! And taking the time to comment! Glad it helped😄👍🏼
Great vid, but I always cut the top as if you cut the bottoms it will get wet. Sometimes you may get a small gap but it’s not noticeable as it’s on the floor.
Thank you!👍🏼 I always seal across the floor anyway which I forgot to mention in the video but i get your point completely. I might try that on the next one i do, cut the top and then use this method to scribe the panel to the wall. Unless the floor is a mile out😁👍🏼
@@mwjoinery exactly. Nothing worse after 6 months and the panel is bubbled cause the customer has been mopping the floor. As said, some fantastic tips in this vid 👏🏻
Yeah, will definitely take that on board. Thanks again👍🏼
Excelente, Thanks!
Thanks for the comment👍🏼
Brilliant!
Thank you Bill!!
Nicely done!
Thank you!
We make stainless countertops and are sales guy can't get them right ever! He's been doing this for over 30years.
But I like your tips.
Good work , great video, and lovely plunge saw, thanks dude , be lucky out there
Thanks a lot mate! They are honestly brilliant, would recommend one to anyone!😁
Nice! Thx!
No problem! Thank you for watching and for the comment👍🏼
Very nice
Thank you!
Well done, nice video mate.👍🏻
Thank you Jason
Best method ive ever seen
Thank you, if you ever try it be sure to let me know how you get on😄👍🏼
Super video, just in time. I am building our house and will be installing IKEA cabinets, this will really help me. Cheers from Canada.
Glad it will help! Hope all goes to plan🤞🏼👍🏼 Thanks a lot for the comment!😁
A simple idea that works. Great to see you sharing your methods. I would like to see you install your plinths and if you have tried Plinth Lock this is a simple solution to keep plinth joints looking good.
Thank you for watching! I don’t fit many kitchens to be honest but if i get any come up soon i will have to try them. Just watched your vid on the plinth locks and they look like a great idea👍🏼
@@mwjoinery Thanks keep up the good work.
Will do! Thanks😄
Great video, i do the wall first using same method then just mark and cut the top, ill try your way mext time
Thank you! If the floor is level I would stick with doing it your way. That’s what I do. But if it’s in need of a scribe this method works well. Just make sure to seal the bottom. Thanks again👍🏼
amazing thanks bro
No problem, thank you for the comment!
Nice
Thank you
Good tip that 😊
Thanks a lot! And thanks for watching👍🏼
Incredibly useful video, thanks very much! PVAing the bottom is quite common I see, I presume for chipboard or MDF.... What about solid wood end panels? Worth it anyway or a fool's errand??
Thanks! I haven’t actually fitted a solid wood one before. As long as it is sealed with a bead of silicone i don’t think it would cause many issues without the PVA but it may be worth doing anyway for a bit more reassurance. The chipboard/ mdf soaks up any moisture like a sponge so it is a lot more important. Appreciate your comment👍🏻
Great video!!! I lost my uscribe jigs, I'll definitely be trying this soon. Thank you!!!! Also for extra protection, you should add a bead of silicon on the cut edge or use a plinth sealing strip
Thanks a lot! Will have to let me know how you get on! Yeah, i did seal this after the video but completely forgot to mention it in the vid👍🏼
UScribe jigs are a must. Best invention and simple too
Well done, you should do more videos
Thank you! Got plenty planned for the near future so keep your eyes out!😀👍🏼
Nice to see holes pre drilled for a change. Seal the bottom with a mixture of tar and creosote
Waterproof wood glue. Or sit on a bed of silicone.
Good way of doing a scribe
Thank your for watching!
I always silicone the cut edge to the floor to avoid moisture ingress.
Thank’s for the feedback. I do normally silicone it but i wanted to get the small bit of skirting done to the left of it before. Also, I normally add a couple of layers of pva to the cut side for an extra barrier. Should have mentioned both of them in the video but completely forgot to be honest mate
Many times on higher end kitchen and bathroom your panels will 100% of the time be solid
Great little tip! Many thanks, new subscriber. The kitchens i fit have plastic trims that slide onto the bottom so the cut side can be on the floor, if not it could just be sealed with a little clear silicone.
Thanks a lot! The last one i did had a plastic seal and i tried putting it between the wood that hooks on and the cabinet. It raised it that little bit more and ended up working really well. Thank you for subscribing👍🏼👍🏼
This looks a great method. I've liked and subscribed. Does it work everytime, regardless of the size of the surplus material needed to cut away? Thanks
Hi, thank you for that! Everytime I have used this method it has worked so I believe so. As long as you offer the panel up to the unit first and make sure that the timber you use to clamp on and scribe with is bigger than how much the panel overlaps the unit. If that doesn’t make much sense, let me know and I will try and explain better. It’s hard to explain over a message😆 Thanks again!
Nooice!
Thanks Garviel!👍🏼
Great method. Would this still work for ladder units? Bigger piece of batton maybe?
Thank you! I’ll be honest, I have never tried it on a larder unit but as long as the wood you use is thicker than the overhang (as i showed at the start of the vid) and both the exact same thickness I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. Might just struggle if there isn’t much space between the top of the unit and the ceiling👍🏼
Subscribed for the scribe.
Thank you daz!
Try doing the same thing but instead of using a pencil to scribe your line use a razor to cut the tape. You can see your line much better that way and you get a crispy thin line to cut to.
Never thought of that but i like the suggestion! Will give that a try at some point! Thank you
Do those plunge saw rails move. Great tip.
Sorry for the slow reply, i must have missed this comment. They do on certain materials like i have found them to slip ever so slightly on laminate worktops. The majority of materials the track is very secure. If comes with clamps what are brilliant to use if needed
Do you always cut the bottom, then side or doesn’t it matter?
Great video, do you always fit your doors before end panel goes on then?
In all honesty I haven’t done that many kitchens yet but i have tried this method a few times and it has worked well every time. Every time i have done it, i put the doors on first. It’s just important to remember to adjust the door so that it is level before doing the scribe. If not the end panel won’t finish level and will follow the door. If you did it without the doors and did the scribe to the carcass, you would need to add the thickness of the door (plus a couple of mm for adjustment) the bit of timber you clamp on the end panel. Hope this makes some sense?😆 Thanks for watching!
I would put some sleeving on the bottom edge of the board. If floor ends up being mopped up that unprotected cut edge will absorb water like mad.
Yeah if the floor is level I will cut the top just to prevent this. If I use this way to scribe it to the floor I would seal it with a few coats of pva but forgot to include that in the vid. Thank you for watching!😁
@@mwjoinery No worries, but regardgless good trick !
@@bucu Thanks again!😁
I'm new to this and while this looks easy, how did you determine the thickness of the piece of timber you wrote top on, or does it matter? Great video, for sure!!! Thx.
If you offer the full sized end panel up to the cabinet, the panel will be bigger than the cupboard. For example it may be 30mm bigger on the top. In this case, if you use something under 30mm and clamp it on. It wouldn’t lift the end panel up of the ground. If you used anything over 30mm, for example 40mm. That would allow you to clamp it to the panel and hook it on the cabinet as i do so in the vid. As long as you use a block on the floor what is the exact same size, you can run it along the floor and that will follow any contours. As long as that is done correctly, cut to the line and it should drop down and finish perfectly level with the top. Hope this helps, if not let me know and i will try and explain better. Thank you!😄
@@mwjoinery, thanks for the quick answer, now I understand.
No worries at all, thanks for watching
Looks great!. What grit of sandpaper did you use?
Not 100% sure but i think it will have been 120 grit👍🏼
@@mwjoinery I appreciate it!
Love that method mate. I’m going to be using a circular saw to do mine, but that cuts upwards obviously, I’m confused as to how to transfer the markings to the back of the decor panel, any suggestions, please?
Hi, sorry for the late reply. I normally get notifications for comments but have only just seen this one. Before getting my track saw i made a track for my circular out of a few bits of mdf and that worked pretty well. When i used that along with a sharp blade there was hardly any breakout so could just cut from the face side. I would definitely recommend knocking one of them up if you have any materials spare. If not maybe just transfer the marks round each end. Join them up with a straight edge and cut a few mm to the waste side. Can always flip it over and then sand to your line. Thank you for the comment and thanks for watching👍🏼
@@mwjoinery thanks for the reply and advice 👍
No worries at all, thanks again😄
Amazing video! Did you use the same block of wood to do the fronts?
Thanks a lot, really appreciate it! Yeah, i used the exact same off cuts and just made sure they was both facing the same way as each other.
Leaving the non protected(not edgebandet) side of the panel on the floor is a huge mistake, one spill of water and this needs a replacment.
It's sealed with a bead silicone for one and second of all if the edge banding is on, it hasn't been scribed has it so it'll be gap city if you have an uneven floor 🤦♂️
@@alisterkelly4052 You can scribe it without removing the factory edgebanding on bottom, but it needs a little more thinking. Silicon still works well for the first 3-4 years.
@@MrDabadas no you can't because if the edgebanding isn't removed then the board edge remains flat, it has therefore not been scribed and doesn't remotely match the floor shape
I just coat the cut edge with yacht varnish then run a final bead of silicone around the bottoms of of all plinths and decor panels when the kitchen is finished
Thanks for the feedback. I would normally add a couple of coats of pva on the cut side before sealing just for a bit more protection. I should have mentioned that in the video but completely forgot to be honest with you.👍🏼
Nice finish! but cut end should be at top to protect bottom from water?
If the floor is level i would put the cut side up but if the floor is noticeably out of level, i was taught to do it this way and add a couple of layers of waterproof pva then silicone it. How would you go about it if the floor is out of level? Thank you for the feedback!
@@mwjoinery OK ignore my comment that makes absolute sense! Thanks for sharing and great work!
You definitely made a good point, i should have explained that a bit more in the video. Thank you!👍🏼
Great tip! Got any more?
Thank you! Yeah, got plenty more ideas i want to turn into videos very soon😀👍🏼
Boom
Thanks.
No problem, thank you for watching👍🏼
@@mwjoinery Bro, just did an end panel on an 8 foot cabinet. Had to screw the block in at the top because the clamp interfered with the ceiling. But by golly I got the scribing absolutely perfect thanks to you.
Awesome! Glad it worked out well😄
I wouldn't have cut the bottom, but i like that scribing technique
Especially after seeing what others have suggested I would only do this if the floor is in need of scribing. If it’s level I would just cut the top of the unit. If I did do it this way I would also seal it but forgot to mention that in the video. Thank you! It is a really handy technique and comes in useful quite often😁👍🏼
YOU SHOULD GIVE SOME THOUGHT TO SEALING THE OPEN GRAIN SANDED WOOD AS MOPING AND MOISTURE WILL SEEP IN AND EXPAND WARP OR DRY ROT THOSE PANELS
Can i ask a quick question as im trying to do an end panel and leave a 40mm over hang at the top to accomodate the pelmet, how would be able to do this with this method. Easted so kuch time trying to do measurments just want to get it done with. Great video great tip thank you
Hi, thank you for watching and commenting! This method only really works with base units to get them flush to the floor. Am I right in thinking you are doing an end panel on one of the wall units or have i misunderstood? If so it’s hard to explain over a message so i have a search on youtube and there is a video called ‘wren kitchens infinity: wall decor panel installation’ and that is pretty similar to how i wold do it
@@mwjoinery hi yeah exactly that its an end panel for larder unit. Ive seen that video i was thinking of doing it like that but then it means ive got to make two cuts. One at the bottom one at the top because unfortunately for me the floor is also uneven lol. Thank you for taking the time to reply though i appreciate it.
Ohhh right,If it is a larder unit and you have plenty of height in the kitchen… you can still use my method you just thicker off cuts. I will try explaining the best i can but just make sure you check all of your measurements before cutting because I don’t want to make you mess up your end panel if I don’t explain it very good but here goes😆 offer the end panel up to the larder like i did on the vid. Put an off cut of the 40mm pelmet on top of the end panel and measure from the top of the larder to the top of the end panel (including the pelmet off cut). You will need 2 off cuts the exact same thickness (like i did on the vid) but they have to be thicker than the overhang that you previously measured. Once you have them, take the pelmet away and clamp the off cut to the top of the panel. Then put the pelmet on the larder unit and hook the end panel on. Then use the other off cut to mark along the bottom and it will compensate for the pelmet and leave an extra 40 mm on the top. Hope this helps?
And as for the floor, that’s typical that it’s uneven… would be far too boring if it was nice and parallel…😳😆😆 Thanks again
@@mwjoinery you sir are an absolute legend. Totally understand that. Amazing, thank you ever so much for taking the time to reply to my comment . Ive subbed you too
so how long will that particle board last raw on a floor, shouldnt you have scribed the top instead or sealed the bottom?
I also pva the bottom and since filming the video I have sealed it with some clear silicone. I should have mentioned that but completely forgot if I’m honest. As for cutting the bottom, I would prefer to cut the top of the panel if the floor is perfectly level but if it needs scribing to the floor the bottom has to be cut to match up with the floor. Thank you for watching👍🏼
Do you cut the side decor panels flush with the door or 2mm passed the door.
I was taught to do them flush so I stick with that👍🏼
@@mwjoinery flit is then😁
When you finished,was there a small gap on bottom rear ?
There was a tiny gap at the bottom of the wall where the plaster finishes but that’s because the skirting board will cover it. As for the rest of the gaps they was pretty good, but it has been sealed now with a bit of silicone to finish it off
Any tips for doing a angled base unit? Please
I can’t say i have ever even fitted an angled base unit mate. Sorry, but wouldn’t want to try give any advice and end up causing any problems😆 thank you for watching👍🏼
這方法我個人認為做的太複雜，耗時又費工；我的做法是先將櫃體門片後調整好（櫃體水平也是）再把側收門片如視頻那樣緊貼在即將要鎖固的那面，再拿卷尺由下到上，由後至前（若地平和牆面有高低或深淺落差很多，建議用卷尺多量測至少三點以上的切割線（由下至上，由後至前）...他這樣的量側過程和裁切完成時間，約四分鐘就完成😊
Bro, you need to upload more vids!!!
Thank you! I do have plans to make some very soon just waiting on getting a better camera so i can make some better quality vids!😀 really appreciate your comment!
Hi, What type saw & blade should I try & hire to do mine ,
Hi, Thank you for watching! I used a mafell track saw and the mafell fine cut blade. If you are after a cheaper alternative i would probably recommend a jigsaw and a downwards cutting blade so it reduces the breakout on the important side of the panel. Would also make sure you use masking tape before cutting as that also helps reduce breakout👍🏼
Thanks for the tips, I can't hire the saw but I have a jigsaw electric plane & electric sander , so I think I have a chance of making a descent job , thanks .
What screw size do you use for joining the panels?
I used 28mm screws. They want to go through the carcass (18mm) and then just half way or so into the end panel. Thank’s for watching!
@@mwjoinery sound mate thanks for that 👌🏽 fitting my first kitchen soon so the video will definitely come in handy!
No problem at all, good luck with that! Hope everything goes as planned!🤞🏼😆
Do they ever over hang the door?
Can you do one for wall panels?
I do have a handy little jig for doing wall panels. The only problem is I never really get chance to fit kitchens anymore. If one comes up I will try and make a video on it. Thanks for watching!
Are those full overlay hinges?
They are yes
I done this 5 min be there all week fitting kitchen lol
can you make the cuts with a jigsaw? i dont have a circular saw. thanks. geoff.
Yes mate, all i would say is use downward cutting blades and maybe leave it a bit further away from the line and sad up to it. You just want to avoid breaking the panel out as much as possible👍🏼
@@mwjoinery great tip. thank you.
No probs, thank you for watching and also commenting!
just subscribed. keep em coming. cheers.
Thanks! Have plenty planned so should be with you soon😄
Easier way, flip the end panel upside down an opposite to the way u want it finished, transfer ur line across the top of base unit onto the end panel & cut, now fit it correct way up an round.. ot will fit perfect an the nasty cut side will be on the inside facing under the unit leaving the outside view with a beautiful cut line an not chipmarks.. 😇
I agree that is the easiest way but unless the wall and floor is perfectly flat, you can be left with small gaps. Still a good way of doing it though so thanks for the comment👍🏼
Hi, how many teeth has your saw? I mean, what is the ideal circular saw teeth number
Thanks for watching! I believe that one is 48 tooth and I like to use that for most things. Then i tend to just swap it for something a bit less fine when cutting sheet material👍🏼
So what about of the flooring hasn’t been fitted yet but you need to instal the worktop and sink? Real world problems, so this doesn’t help much in my situation.
Yeah, it might not work in every situation but if it’s a complete new kitchen you would fit the worktops after the end panels. I also fitted the flooring before doing the end panel in this situation
turn your panel upside down and mark across the top of the unit. level panel and no messing around :)
That wouldn't be accurate if the floor runs uneven
@Stu Hill uneven doesn't matter as long as its flat. Only ever fitted one kitchen where they had a cobbled floor. 👍
@Stu Hill turn your panel face in to the unit. Mark across the top of the unit then cut from underneath. Just saved you hours of messing around. 😁😁😁
It's not going to work unless your floor has exactly zero fluctuations. By scribing the bottom first and then sanding the bottom to match the floor profile, it will be fine until you scribe the back and then cut that to profile and then set it 10-20 mm back from where it was scribed perfectly to the floor. It's a great way to do it, but this is always going to be something to be conscientious about.
Yeah, that is a very good point to be fair. It’s worked out very well on all of the ones i have done in the past but understand it would affect it if the floor was massively out. Thank you for watching and for the feedback!👍🏼
So what’s the solution ? Because if you did the side first the problem will occur when the bottom drops after
@@1spiders1 There isn’t much of a solution (or at least I haven’t found one yet). I always do the floor first as it only has to slide back 10-20mm or so. If it ends up ever so slightly out on the floor, it’s not too bad as it will be sealed anyway. In all the times i have tried it, it’s only had very small gaps which will seal easily. As for the wall cut, i always do that second just because i want that to be perfect to the wall because it won’t be getting sealed. Thank you for the comment!
Could you not do both scribes simultaneously? Four bits of wood, four clamps, one scribe line that traverses the wall and floor in one go?
@@1spiders1there isnt really one. Template it if you want to make it perfect. Otherwise scribing with smaller stock would already improve results a lot if the floor/wall is out by a lot. The smaller the stock, the smaller the offset from the actual position you are scribing to.
And people always wonder "why does X cost so much?" I've bought a few home DIYer in the past and no, that newly installed bathroom isn't going to push me to asking price.
Good job, but re - tape edges or seal before fitting because chipboard is like a sponge 🧽
Yes mate, that’s a fair point. I should have mentioned this in the video👍🏼 thank you for watching though and commenting😄
does that work on walls that are like the snake pass
It does yeah, if they are very bad it may be worth using a smaller block that runs along the wall so that it follows the contours a little better
Anyone use the Uscribe Jigs? Gane changer since i got a pack.
I can’t say I’ve ever used them. Keep meaning to get some ordered because they do look pretty good
Bet that track saw weren’t cheap
Cost about £600 so not cheap at all but worth its weight in gold! One of my favourite tools for sure!
What a load of agro
And all of this can be done without extra wood, just by flipping- easier and faster.
got a link?
But then you end up with an unprotected side on the floor...any moisture will blow the end panel
If the floor was level and didn’t need scribing, I would keep a machined edge to the floor. When i do cut the bottom I always protect the cut edge then seal around it. Should have probably mentioned that in the vid👍🏼
@MWJoinery what sealant do you use?
I’m not sure which brand i used but it was just some general purpose clear silicone
Very nice…. But it doesn’t help when builders can’t do flat walls and floors….. 80% of the times I scribe panels, plastering is crap. Why do you sand edges after cutting!? And it’s a must to seal at least bottom edge. Water proof wood glue is the best
Thank for the comment! Doing it like this does actually scribe it to the floor. That’s why I sanded it. I cut it to the nearest points possible to my line then sanded any curves. I do also do that and then seal with clear silicone when the rest of them are done but completely forgot this part in the video😆 Thanks again👍🏼
There's no way that particle board is going to withstand a mopping or any water on the floor for that matter.
Yeah I forgot to mention in the video to seal the bottom edge but I had already put it out when I realised. I would normally keep an uncut side down if the floor is level but if it’s out I use this way to scribe it
maybe make the 2x2 a bit shorter to follow the wall
It seemed to work ok for this one in particular because the wall and floor wasn’t too far out. I get what you are saying though and i would definitely agree with you! I’ll probably use a smaller bit in future. Thank you for watching!
u should always have your cut at the top to prevent material absorbing water and moist from cleaning floor and spilage etc
He was lucky that the wall was straight
The wall wasn’t straight. Doing this technique scribes the panel to the wall
I can see what he is doing, I have no idea why.
If a floor/ wall is not perfectly straight then when you offer up the panel to it there will be unsightly gaps visible. The idea is to cut the panel so that its profile matches the 'waviness' of the floor/ wall. For example for the wall, if you move the panel say 5cm forward, then run a pencil along the wall on a 5cm piece of wood then you should have a line on the panel that matches the undulations of the wall. Cut the panel along that line (this is the hard part!) and when you move it 5cm back to the wall it should fit to the wall precisely without any gaps. Note that the the length of the block of wood you run along the wall will determine how sensitive the pencil line is to undulations in the wall. Or to avoid all this you could bodge it and just use a bead of silicone to cover up the gaps 🤪