Save Your Rusty Table Saw!
In this video I show you can easily fix up a rusty table saw, even if you mess it up yourself by accident! I accidentally left a piece of Pink insulation foam on my tablesaw and it had some moisture on it... not a great move. WD-40 to the rescue!
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Another extra 2 steps taught to me in the ship yards. After cleaning or on a brand new machine with exposed metal surfaces. Step 1. Us a Map Gas torch to remove the natural water from inside the metal sub strait. ((A Preheat)) Step 2. Than apply the wax or rust preventive while the metal is still hot so it melts and soaks deep into the metals crystalline sub strait. Filling the voids.⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐Perfect step to use on machines using coolant. Mills, Laths, CNC's machines - etc. etc. etc. etc.
I know this is a year old, but I agree. I'm restoring a 1952 Sears 6" cast iron belt sander. Once de-rusted using vinagar, then cleaned with Brakleen, I heated it with my propane torch before actually applying the paint. When pre-heating with the torch, I immediately saw the moisture boiling out of the cast material. It doesn't need to be 200 degrees, just spend the time to warm it up. .......Now im painting, but before oiling or waxing, preheating the material makes sense.
One of the few real working shops on YT. The background isn’t staged.
To protect your MDF outfeed table from further damage, consider laying down a couple coats of shellac. Then put a coat of wax over that. The shellac dries pretty dark so it will cover a lot of the stains on there now. The wax will reduce friction when you rip long boards too.
Good advice. I’ve done this on my old Craftsman and it really helped.
Good tip on cleaning rust off a table saw. Thank you for sharing this video.
really well done video. very informative and to the point. not dragged out with boring bloat so many do. thank you.
Thanks for the video and advice. I'm on the hunt for a used belt driven table saw and most of them (all of them) have rusted cast iron. This will be my chosen method of cleaning my new-to-me table saw. Thank you again from a newbie! 🙂👍
Great process! Thanks for sharing!
Chris absolutely awesome and very helpful and very informational video this week. Thank you so much sir. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep Making. God Bless.
Thanks I needed that information. I have a vintage /anquie (1980's) B&D table saw that I use. Some day I need to restore it.
Nicely done thanks for sharing
Cast iron most of the time cleans up if it’s fresh- love your videos!!!
Nice job !!! Great video ,thanks !!
This was very informative! Thank you
I used fine beach sand and light motor oil to clean my saw tabletop. Lightly oil the top and spread oil evenly and sprinkle on the sand. I then took a piece of Low Carbon steel, about 6" square and scoured the saw table in a figure eight motion, rotating the piece of steel by 90 degrees each few strokes. Overlap the table edge with the lapping plate to keep table flat and not make i the tabletop concave. Works great. Just a thought. Try using the machined bottom of a Cast Iron or Aluminum Frying Pan.
Nice. Thank you for that. I will definitely follow suit!
Thumbs up, subbed and downloaded this video. Thanks.
Thank you.
I once discovered my cat had decided my cast iron table top was the perfect spot for him to lay in the sun during the winter. When I got around to using the saw again, any flat surface becomes a table to store things try not to let it happen, I discovered a perfect little cat shaped rust spot on my table. So, I had to do the same thing you did here. It takes some work but looks great afterwards.
Plastic floor runner upside down with the spikes up. He will learn to stay off it.
I cover my tablesaw with a canvas cover from an old futon whenever it isn't being used. It's about 4 layers thick and it keeps any moisture from getting to the cast iron top. The saw is 18 years old and the top still looks brand new.
I had a rusty bandsaw, put some penetrating oil on it (a very liberal amount), then I started hitting it with a wire brush. It took like 2 hours of not much happening before I gave up, then I put some plastic over it to cover it. I came back the next morning expecting it to need another couple hours, but nope I was able to just wipe all of the rest of the rust off with a shop towel. I recommend leaving the oil on for a longer time if you’re having difficulty getting the rust off
Thank you, this was very helpful. Would you ever use a wire wheel cup to remove heavier rust on a table saw top?
always inspiring.
@Make Everything Try this next time.... 1. Dry scrape with a razor blade on a long handle, move with the grain of the surface grind. Change blades often, and avoid running over the table edges, miter slots or throat until the end because doing so will burr the edge of the blade. 2. Apply WD40 as a lubricant, specialist rust release if you have it, then use an orbital sander (better) or burnisher/polisher (best) and graduate from green to maroon to grey scotch brite pads or wheels. Move with the grind of the table. 3. Clean between passes with a rag and reapply WD40 as needed. 4. Remove tough stains (like the ever-present beer can ring) with Boeshield Rust and Stain Remover. 5. Wipe surface with mineral spirits. 6. Take one final pass dry, light pressure, with the grey scotch brite to give it a final shine. 7. Wipe surface with mineral spirits. Gently heat surface with a propane or map gas torch. 8. Apply crystalline paste wax from Rennaissance, Johnson's paste wax or Boeshield T9 spray to make the surface slick and provide some rust protection. Reapply depending on how often you use the table saw, jointer, planer, band saw, etc... For heavily used machines, I apply a light wax 1 time a month. The process, start-to-finish as described, takes under 30 minutes to remove surface rust in far worse condition than shown in your video. I restore several wood and metal working machines a year for the last 25 years. My process has only improved by adding a burnisher/polisher and scotch brite wheels and Boeshield rust and stain remover to my process. It's fast, and it works well for light maintenance or heavily rusted restoration projects on any cast iron surface, big or small.
Cover the entire table surface with cheap paper towels. Douse it in vinegar. That will remove most of the rust quickly. Vonagar also has some etching properties. From there on, its up to you. You cant over measure or over prep.
Good job. Problem is, it is only temporary. A better solution ls to use Evaporust not oil. Evaporust is nontoxic and no scrubbing. Then you get a Nickel plating kit and you can litterly rub (lightly) on the Nickel with a cloth and a 12v battery. Two to Three coats required. It will never rust again. Other options are to laminate the top with Formica or 30Ag stainless steel sheet.
Thank you for showing the right way of doing that I have used WD-40 on table Rush before but never thought about using the wax to keep it off thank you for telling me that or showing also curiosity question what do you use for a degreaser ?? thanks much this is John saying goodbye and thanks for your video
What did you use as a degreaser?
I use past wax on my stored saw blades when I put them up I use fine steep wool to apply it making Shure they are clean and wipe them with a paper towel works great
The voiceover killed me and scared the crap out of me lol awesome video though and very useful practice
What!? That was a perfect ADR! 😂
Rubbing alcohol vice degreaser will save your projects in the future. Thanks again!
WD-40 here in humid, salty West Coast if Florida is a no-no. It seems to make salty moisture condense on the surface of our cast iron tools.
Does the paste finishing wax actually work? Because if you already did this once before……..
Would the Minwax be good to use on my anvil, too? I have a primitive smithy and the roof occasionally drips onto my anvil resulting in a surface rust I clean off with WD-40.
Use a sander, or angle grinder with the scotch bright. Its soooo much easier, and faster. Personally id have dry sanded the surface rust off first, as it would allow me to pull the rust into a dust collector/shop vac.
While this might seem to be a great idea, but using oils and non-drying lubricants on the cast iron surface of your machines can cause you some future issues. These products can end up transferring to the wood of a project and screw up the finish of something you just put a dozens of hours working on and hundreds of dollars invested in. If you use them to clean the cast iron, be sure to completely clean it all off with alchohol or acetone. Where where it soaked in to the wood of the out-feed table can leach back up into a piece of wood you lay across it. You should use a drying product like Carbon Coat, EzzOx, or Boesheild, then follow it up with a good quality wax afterward. Make sure you fully clean off the excess wax residue. Follow up up with another coat of wax every 6 months or so.
Even better, pass current through the table {in isolation} and nickle plate it.
The degreaser was more than enough to get all the residue from the WD40 off of the table. You literally suggested exactly what he did. You would have to leave a piece of error sitting on top of the outfield table for any of that to soak into the woods. It's a non issue
@@littlejackalo5326 not a non-issue. many woodworkers need to use their table saw for larger project assembly. Many degreasers leave residue behind. And you'll never get it out of the outfield table wood, or out of the seam around the saw top edge without disassembly. Just avoid using petroleum or silicon products that will mess with a finish and then it will actually be a non-issue.
Just use Evaporust to remove the rust. No rubbing. Then get it copper plated then Nickel electroplated. It will never rust again.
I have one of these and recently the shop roof sprung a small leak. FYI there is NO direction to the casting and I use 0000 steel wool and a block of wood. Then random orbit with 320gr.
Plain old white vinegar. Lay out old rags or paper towels over your surface. Saturate them. Come back the next day, rubdown with scotch bright. Rinse withe baking soda and water mix. Top with Johnson’s.
Sawstop recommends that you use the gray scotch brite pads. I think they are less coarse so they will take some more work to remove so much rust but you get a better shine from them so you don't have to use fine grit sandpaper.
Yeah, gray is finer than green. Red is in between gray and green.
Do you do that to your saw blades to make them cut easier?
What do you use to clean the scotch brite pads so you can reuse them? How often should you apply wax?
I don’t clean the scotch pads I just rotate them using basically 1/4 of the pad at a time. Then I throw them out. You can usually feel when the wax has worn out and then reapply. Every couple months usually depending on use
Nice!! How do you know the "direction of the grain" on a metal surface??... I didn't even know a cast iron top had a "grain" direction....
You can tell when you look at it. It’s not a grain as in the sense of wood but the way the surface is milled during manufacturing. On a saw or jointer or planer it will normally be in the direction the material will travel. Sometimes on something like a spindle sander or drill press it won’t be a linear pattern but more of a swirl or spiral.
you need bounty the thicker picker upper
Me looking at my king industrial contractor tablesaw rusted to kingdom come: Your time is coming little buddy
Sick add
sick ad spelling.
What degreaser? Dawn?
I don't even leave wood on cast iron, especially if it's freshly milled. Any residual moisture will leave a nice tattoo on the surface. Don't ask me how I know. :)
I’ve slowly realized over time that o was leaving just sawdust on the top which would then pull moisture from the air and hold it on the surface and you could see the rust right where the pile of sawdust was.
What kind of degreaser is used in this video?
👍
Can I use regular kerosene instead of WD40?
Keep
One of my favourite jobs in the shop is clean and wax my tool. sorry,Table saw
WD 40 is NOT a lubricant. It is Water Displacent 40th attempt. It is also NOT a penetrating fluid but it sort of does all these things probably more by luck than anything.
Use Zep 45 instead of wd.
Furniture wax
You WILL regret using that sandpaper. Let the stains remain. They're badges of honor.
I’ve been doing it for 20 years ajd never regretted it
@@trumpking4874 I'm sure glad you don't work in my shop.
@@timhofstetter5654me too cuz I don’t use rusty ass stained up garbage and with your 8 subscribers I can’t imagine u could afford me anyway. Using high grit sand paper won’t hurt a damn thing ever. My table saw is 7 years old and looks like the day I bought it still. 🤷♂️🖕
@@trumpking4874 I have subscribers? Really? Why, do you suppose, that might happen? I have no posted "content". Me? Afford you? Sorry, I'm gonna' go silent for a while. I'll be too busy laughing to type. That' was a violation, BTW. Your mom's gonna' be pissed when she sees what you did to her KZhead connection. Oh, while you're at it, tell her "Hi" from me. She'll remember me.
You telling me you can see the direction of the grain in cast iron? bs.
I came to the comments specifically to see if anyone said anything about the “grain” in cast iron
I realize you're sponsored by WD40, but Evaporust followed by Boeshield T9 would have made your life so much easier and prevented any future incidents like this...
Trying to use evaporust on that large flat surface would have been a nightmare. Soaking rags and letting them sit on the surface would waste a ton of really expensive evaporust, and would have taken a long time, and would have needed to be babysat to keep from drying out. The gel evaporust would have been a pain to clean up. Wrapping it in cellophane, and then trying to clean it. No thanks.
That WD40 is junk for that purpose. What you want is distilled white vinegar (acetic acid), which converts the rust to iron acetate. Just don't let the vinegar dry on the table top. You MUST towel it dry after you've done your work, and then you MUST cover the iron with pastewax afterwards... although I'm ready to experiment with BoeShield this time. I have to do this twice every year because I live in Vermont and my shop isn't heated. Don't feel ashamed to use steel wool. You'll never hurt that iron with it - the cast iron is harder than the steel is because it has a higher ferric carbide content. WD40 just transfers to your valuable hardwood workpieces and makes finishing impossible.
Lol am I the only one who thought it was weird that he kept calling it "original WD40 product" instead of just WD40?
Advertising bullshit won't sell itself.
I definitely do NOT want a slippery saw table. No wax for me.
Why not?
@@MakeEverything'Cause then he has to use clamps.
Be VERY CAREFUL with your selection of waxes. Use only ONLY only 100% carnauba. Silicone, which is commonly added, is your worst enemy in a workshop.
Nice recovery. Would you consider ceramic coating on this piece? Happy Holidays! 🗽🇺🇸
This is a HOW NOT TO Video. Cast Iron is porous and wood absorbs oil. Its a good way to stain your woodwork.
I use a spray on Teflon coating instead of paste.
WD-40 makes things rust faster, it's a great cleaner though. Just make you sure you put a sealer on it.
Oh really tell that to my Bridgeport Milling machines is set in an unheated garage that no longer rust because they've been sprayed down with WD-40
WD40 is a moisture barrier, hence the actual name "Water Displacement Formula 40". It does prevent corrosion as long as its maintained on the surface of the metal.