Manly-man skills: Remove a broken tap the hard way.
TL:DW skip to 7:00
This is my 200th vidja! Incredible how time flies, still having fun in the shop, still making lots of mistakes so you don't have to and still inspiring Trolls to lob spitballs from the know-it-all-do-nothing peanut gallery.
The matter at hand:
I bust a crappy tap and show how to get it out in the home workshop.
There are many more-or-less effective ways to remove a broken tap. This is the toughest situation, a broken tap in a blind hole. In a thru hole, you can go for the hammer and chisel brute force method.
Sometimes despite our best efforts to the contrary, things don't go according to plan, so we try something else. Surprisingly, that something else works better than the original plan.
Feeling the weight of all those two dollar coins in your pocket? Throw 'em into the hat and we'll make something out of 'em!
/ ave
Back in the early 80's, a friend of mine was a machinist and I had asked why he used Chinese taps. He said, have you ever tried to get a broken American tap out?
I don’t get it please help
@@kremit5084 American taps are usually high-quality, made out of tool steel typically, and hard as diamond. Getting one of those out using the methods in this video would be a nightmare.
LMAO!!!!
@@MFrawley I agree He does it wrong. And i have removed a lot of taps in my days, i would not use his technique, maybe as a last resort. First off always use a left hand flute drill when doing stuff like this and to be honest just tapp it out with a hammer and a chisel.
@@sopalen a left hand flute ( high speed steel) drill to drill out a high speed steel Chinese tap? You're having a laugh mate. Using a LH drill to drill out a broken bolt or stud yes but not something that's the same hardness as your drill lo
Thanks for the broken tap extraction tutorial. This has allowed me to not only remove a broken tap, but in rapid order allow me to break off a new one.
Just did that with a bolt extractor. Removing the second one has been an even larger chore.
When I break a tap at work usually use a ball endmill big enough to peck out the center. At home I just cuss at it for 12 hours till it's annoyed into vacating the hole.
I broke a tungsten carbide tap below the surface. I used cheap diamond-tipped Dremel bits to cut between the flutes of the tap and it came out easily. Just follow the precaution of cutting in 30 second intervals and allow for the bit to cool before going back in so the diamond tip doesn't overheat and separate from the shaft.
I had a German foreman who never gave a cheapo cutting tool to anyone. Bless that man.
Robert Clolery the price was high though, hope the counselling going well
Well I was mostly only given blunt tools.... yay beeing an apprentise. Me : This nitrideded steel ususally I work with ceramic on it. Boss : take this one Me: its blunt and the edges have broken of Boss: do it Makes one hole the secound one the tap goes bust. Me: I need something harder than the tap to drill it out. Can I have one of the tungsten carbide drills? BossNo take this HSS one Drill may as well be made from warm butter. Me: Can I please have now the proper tool to get this tap out, for example this spark erosion device everyone here is using when a tap is broken?. Boss: Try with this HSS+Co drill Me: sigh Drill goes bust. Me: Now? Boss. Sigh Me : Gets the devise plugs it in and within ten minutes the hole goes through again. Me: to Boss: Did you order some new taps as I have asked that has been the last one Boss: No And that how a ten minute job took a whole week.
@@vHindenburg If you were paid by the hour at least you got your monies worth.
@@fennyferrister668 Sadly that aint the case for an aprentice
all i asked from my employer was to give all 3 of us programmers the cheapest mechanical keyboard on the market... cost like $30... so that we don't ruin our wrists and so that we manage to type without the keys sticking on the 10+ year old "dell" low profile crap they gave us. 6 months later, i had left, still the same. Truth be told, each one of us had 2 decent 1080p monitors so ok. He never understood why a keyboard is important for programmers that bang away 8+ hours a day on them.
im chinese and I frankly find the comments hilarious and entertaining. screw the pc movement.
Since you’re Chinese, can you confirm or deny his story about dogs during winter season in China? 😂
@@choun2749 It's not.
@@choun2749 Only applies to people who likes to eat them. Not every Asian person like to eat dogs.
@@choun2749 he was talking about Taiwan. not China
@@OACustom SAME QUALITY IN ETHER COUNTRY !!!
AvE: " some of my viewers are upset about my racist comments" AvE seconds later: " there's many ways to skin a cat..... especially if your Chinese" lmao
Chinese is a race now?
@@fireemscraftsman2016 yes, a cat race
@@fireemscraftsman2016 Yes when I was growing up they were referred to as "The Yellow Man"~????
😆
he just didnt give a damn. lol
"that German that's only spoken by people with a throat disease... Dutch" As a Belgian, I can tell you this was hilarious!!
Hey, you remember no Russian from call of duty? How about a bunch of guys masked up riding in a mini van. It stops. They pick up weapons from the floor, rifles and machine guns. They exit the van, approaching a grocery store. Souvenez-vous, pas de flamande Call of Duty Cold War My American friends don’t get it but that would be funny right
When I was visiting Hawaii the hotel had a Dutch television station and I found that my English-speaking ears could understand most of what the newscasters were saying. I don't have the same thing with German even though the two languages have a lot in common.
That would rather fit with the Belgium language than Dutch.
As one of my old NCOs used to say, "I'm not prejudiced; I hate everyone."
Same
@@blackwaterrepair10 Yep - me too.
The term is... I am not prejudice, I hate everyone "EQUALLY"...
I've been told that too.
Now that is how KZhead videos should be. Good information, delivered in an easily watchable, irreverent and entertaining way. Well done sir, I just subscribed.
you gotta be kidding me.
you mean irrelevant? lol
As a tool and die machinist with 30 years experience, I have found it to be more practical when drilling out taps with carbide, to use a drill bit that is just under the size of the body of the tap. So that you drill a hole inside the body of the tap without breaking through the sidewalls. That way the tap remains one piece in shape and does not have much chance of breaking your drill bit. Then all it takes is a couple of taps with a punch and the pieces will fall out of the hole. I do love this channel and fine that this guy has a wealth of knowledge and a sense of humor to match.
This is the way
My old timer foreman once used a blow torch with the fine flame tip after warming it up to cherry glowing bright, he hit the oxygen lever at the exact perfect moment with the flame at a perfect angle and with accuracy and precision and blew away the broken tap from the hole with minimal collateral damage to the hole like magic.
Chinese taps are great man. How else would you tap plastic?
+Mechanical Engineer Was just thinking, but i've never had any trouble with my chinese taps......only tapped super soft aluminium duh
+Mechanical Engineer Was just thinking, but i've never had any trouble with my chinese taps......only tapped super soft aluminium duh
+Mechanical Engineer blow torch and screws?
+cerby86 Chinesium tap broke in an aluminium fork leg on my motorbike. Bore did it, actually. I tried drilling, but a hard tap in a soft material was a nightmare to drill out. Bore is the thing.
cerby86 try copper
A lot of this guy's appeal is a man talking to men about manly things in a manly way. Hell yeah.
Hey! There's women here doing manly things too! Have a beer!
Except for his foul mouth! Nothing "manly" about that!
Using foul language is not the mark of a man. It is the mark of a little boy trying to be a man, and failing badly! Anyone who thinks it is manly to curse and swear shows they are not men but children in need of discipline.
@@thorlo1278 Don't clutch your pearls so tight, you may break them.
Lots of great info , but if you don't like the language you don't have to watch . Lot of other KZhead to watch
When i break a tap into steel, i heat it until it’s red hot with the oxyacetylene torch, let it cool down slowly to unharden the steel and once it’s cold, i drill through with a normal drill bit.
Smart man, think with ur head when you don’t have infinite tools and $
The proper term for "unharden" is "anneal." You're welcome.
@@fubartotale3389 Ackchyually I would say this is normalising.
👍
Lmao, now that is a guy who's never tried it, trying to spread metallurgy knowledge as if it's a one size fits all solution. High speed steel can't be annealed in the same way as most tool steels. It's pretty much the defining feature of high speed steel that you can run it red hot and still not lose its temper, hence why it can cut mild steel like butter. Yes, it'll naturally dull faster when that hot, but it'll still be just as hard once cooled, unless you let it cool for literally days like how they anneal it professionally. Trust me, I've tried many times before...
“When you make a Dunder headed mistake and lose an arm, Atleast the safety guy can see you got safety glasses on” never related to a joke more in my life hahaha
Dunder Mifflin Paper Company has left the chat. ;-p
I hope you are the safety guy!!
I don't know if this helps stop tap breaking, but when I trained with the R.A.F. in the 60's they taught us to always use a good cutting lubricant, (I think we used tallow then). Also once you have the tap well started you should wind forwards one turn, back half turn and then forwards again. This breaks the cut metal swart into short strips so they don't block the hole so much. For aluminium alloys, back out the tap frequently or the swarf will accumulate, re-melt in the hole and fuse or jam the tap. Also, use a taper tap to start and then a plug to finish. A broken tap should be very rare in your workshop especially if you are drilling the correct size hole. Sorry if you already know all this stuff, but I see a lot of youngsters who don't.
This guy taps
Im not an expert. Thats why im here to learn. But in this situation, wouldn't it be easier and much faster to simply drill a series of little holes into the tap, and then unbolt it with a flat blade tool?
vacomments what do you mean "unbolt it"?
It's difficult to drill into the material that the tap is made of
Armen Lock not with a good carbide or cobolt. We did just watch a video of a tap being drilled. ;0)
I broke a tap in acid-proof stainless a couple of weeks ago, blind hole. I used a hammer, a sharpened center punch and some patience to extract it. Basically I just shattered the broken tap in the hole piece by piece with the punch
That's the way I do it. It's way quicker to punch it to shatter it and start over
I broke a tap in hardened steel,.. was not a cheap tap, best I had... Rushing using a drill to tap with, but hey, the 30 previous holes went great. Couldn't extract it so I melted the whole god damn thing with the welder and filled the f**king hole, ground it smooth and walked away. Decided I didn't need a threaded hole that badly.
Soft juicy bags of meat and guts 😂
@@justingrey6008 That's a reasonable solution. (sarcasm)
wait, if the stainless was acid-proof, couldn't have you used acid?
Stumbled upon this vid while searching for hardened steel drilling advice. I found this very informative and watched to the end. Great video and love your sense of humor.
"Just chill out, everything's gonna be ok". 👍👍 i love this guy. Too many sensitive ppl in the world these days. You do you buddy. Keep up the badass video's
I want to send a donation! Finally, someone with a sense of humor, unafraid of the PC police.
@@m4inline I think it's worse in Canada
Hell, Richard Pryor and Eddie Murphy were too.
As a mashinist, mostly working CNC mills, I like to keep some used up carbide endmills handy. You can use those on the drill press as demonstrated or write a quick little program (preferedly helical pocket, if your control allows for it, but drill pecking is ok too), to mill out the broken bit. If they breake it's no problem, since they weren't good for anything else anyway.
I use a ballnose carbide endmill and drill a hole through centre. Make hole big enough that it just fits inside of flutes that way there is no interrupted cut to break ballnose. Once you drill out middle a solid hit with a chisel or punch will cause tap to shatter. Blow out and retap. This also saves existing thread.
This has aged so nicely
Shouldn't Step 0.5 have been to use a left-handed twist drill, followed by an EZ-Out? (Which is then followed by the video on how to remove an EZ-Out that has snapped off while trying to remove a tap...)
Nothing ever easy with a EZ-OUT!
I only watch this channel because i need to learn more slurs
Theres a skill every man should practice really. You cant say you love someone unless you know their appropriate slur 😂
@@lemuelseale1640 amen
@@TheKnightDrag0n As a Floridian, I only watch it to keep up with Canadian slang. For instance, I had no idea _Chooch_ was a verb. And I'm originally from Michigan! Boy, how things change in 30 years. Then there's _skookum,_ which I especially like. Now I'm using these words just to throw people off (not hard to do around here).
i watch this channel because i enjoy knowing im not the only one.
@@TheVetusMores Skookum is a local native word here meaning big. Here on Vancouver island we go fishing on the Skookum Chuck, Big water.
Glad to see the carbide bur work out here. Had the same issue at work trying to tap out an 8mm hole for a Timesert and snapped off almost exactly as what you were working with. Tried almost all the same tricks and the carbide bur was what finally got it out.
Most interesting bit was how fast the brake works on your mill, it went from speed to dead stop in like 1 second. That is very damn impressive. Surprising how well the burr did against the tap aswell
Having personally lived and worked in China for 12 years, all of your comments are accurate and on point. Keep up the great work!
I lived there (Beijing) for 4.5 years and the only time I ever heard of people eating dog was one restaurant (I think on Gui Jie) which I think was ethnic Korean. Everyone I knew there would never consider it. Rather stick to talking about getting out broken taps. Or more often broken screw extractors...
@@spettro9 The story about the dog was in Thailand...
Don't change anything just keep doing what you are doing !!! :) the sensitive ones can go cry in the corner :) P.S I totally agree with you on the China crappy producer front !! :)
I'm sure the Chinese Space program would not use any hardware from an American hardware store.
***** I am sure they would not either, having supplied the place. I hate to buy stuff there myself.
+AvE yes totally agree keep going the way you are your videos are very entertaining screw the people that don't like them as they don't have to watch. Good reply I'm am talking about a country not a race.
***** you shouldn't judge a country based on a few news headlines. Greece may have financial problems but it is still a developed country with a 250 billion euro GDP, 3 times the GDP per capita of China, and it's high technology industries export over 1 billion euro in high tech products every year.
Paolo Scarabelli Calling what Greece is going through as "financial problems" is like saying the issue with the Titanic was "The floor got a little wet".
I learned this manly skill decades ago...I do find your presentation hilarious. I enjoy your stories and comments!
I've never had a broken tap I couldn't remove by shattering the tap with a punch, hammer and magnet. And, every tap I've broken was preceded by a boneheaded move of either not keeping the flutes clear, side loading because of some awkward position (maybe not boneheaded, unavoidable) or drilling a fastener off center and leaving behind pieces to dislodge and jam up the tap.
One thing good about the Chinese taps is, if you look carefully you can see the metal beginning to deform or twist just prior to the tap breaking. This is your warning to stop, back out the tap, flush the hole and pray, as you start trying it again. Sometimes I have had to stop and back out the tap a little about a dozen times in one hole before I completed the tap. You call the Chinese taps cheap when they are really just sensitive. Speaking of calling the Chinese names. A Chinese couple, The Wongs, moved to the US about a year before the couple's daughter was born. Something strange happened when the baby was born though. The baby girl was very dark complected. So, what did the Chinese man name his daughter? Answer: Som Ting Wong.
funny
lol had a good laugh
LOL
The Sum Ting Wong joke never gets old. There was actually a case where a (presumably disgruntled) NTSB intern managed to mis-inform a local news station with a list of phony crew names on a crashed flight, including Capt. Sum Ting Wong ... Here for prosperity in all it's glory: kzhead.info/sun/e9Z9oJmqsIFrfYE/bejne.html
A broken tap in a large heat sink like that one...just use a low acetylene torch flame and heat 'just the broken tap' to 'cherry red'...next & quickly...turn the acetylene off and hit the cherry red broken tap with full force oxygen from the torch...oh yeah, don't stand in front of it because it will come out of the hole like a volcano. Old School methods still work. Clean up the partially tapped hole and do it right the next time.
Wow, does that really work!? Great tip, hopefully I remember it!
The machinists at the ship yard I did finish carpentry for did that.. seen it at least twice. Does work
That is a great idea. Just the thing for when you're working in an isolated area, like outback Australia,with no access to a spark eroder, but having oxy acetylene equipment.
Always keeping an eye out for diff tricks so thanks for that..
Yip!
My fiancé and I love your channel: she translated the "Gwuy Lo" and "Chow Hi" comment, we laughed our butts off.
left hand drill bit (Snap-on) has often worked for me while following the same procedure.
I work part time for a foreigner, we were talking about fixing something on a Sprinter van, and I said "there's more than one way to skin a cat", he said "what the F%@K does that's have to do with this,", ?? 😆😆
Needle nose pliers in opposing flutes and then vice grips on the jaws of the pliers and back up the tap. sometimes works.
There's no opposing flutes on a three flute tap.... and my needle noses are far too precious for that job!
Physics and vice grips have gotten me out of many a bind!!
Great vids fun and informative. One trick i use with those pesky broken taps is to grab a dull solid carbide end mill . run it at about 500 rpm. And just plunge thru the center of the tap. The end mill will melt the tap on its way thru past the tip of the tap. You may want to start off center on larger taps to brake thru one of the webs. Then just pick the rest of the tap pieces out. Just another way to skin that cat.
I have used the tap removal tools and had some success with them, but they are expensive and not easily available. I usually try needle nose pliers and try to see if I can get any movement out of the tap. If it moves I use air to blow out the little chips as I work the broken portion back and forth. This works pretty well. The few times both failed and I had to get schooled from a guy who had many more years experience working in much worse environments then myself. He taught me if the tap breaks off in a cast block you can heat it with a torch and the tap will melt before the block will. That is a last ditched effort for me but with his years of experience makes it look easy, he took the time to show me how to do it. It takes me much longer then it did him but its one of those things that you don't get a second chance with if you melt the block.
I know Carbide Burrs work extremly well. I had a broken easy out that no drill bits would touch. I got a carbide burr for my dremel and it chewed up that broken eazy out like it was nothing. It only took a few minutes and it was gone.
I would have just gone for the carbide burr in the first place, they always work for me. I always keep the burr flooded with coolant though.
what head type did you used? round or flat?
There is a special carbide spade drill made for drilling broken taps. The run at a real high speed. If you don't run them fast enough. They break apart. If it is going fast enough. It goes through like butter. It is best to run a full flood anytime you run carbide. But hard to have that in a home shop. I was a machinist for 37 years. I have had luck with the tap extract like you mentioned. But probably broke more of them then got them to work. We had one of the electro arc machine for removing taps in our shop. They buzz through a tap like you won't believe. One of the bosses in his infinite wisdom goes and surpluses it because it took up a 4 ft by ft space. I was like what the hell. He tells me no body ever uses that thing. I said the hell they don't. It gets used all the time. It is so fast guys are in and out of it in less then 10 minutes. They make sure they are so they don't have to answer to why they broke a tap off. We had EDM machines all in our shop across the street. He tells me if a tap gets broke we will send it and have them burn it out. If it was any sizable tap The Electro arc had a circuitry that just buzed through they thing. Faster then a drill could go though the hole to start with. It had flood coolant and a vibrating head also. The combination is what made it work so well. I was thinking you maybe should show how to tap the hole properly. Using the correct handle instead of a wrench. Backing the tap up to break the chip. Using a spring loaded center to keep the tap in proper alignment. Show some different style taps. Standard, gun, spiral, and form taps. If you have one show them how a tapping head works in a drill or milling machine. Or even show how to power tap on your milling machine.
When I was a college in uk they called it a spark eroder
We had one in the Navy we called it the disinigrater sounds like The same thing you used
I agree with Bobby Harpoon. There’s some good learnin’ we still need from ya!
I just removed/ destroyed a pipe tap buried in a hole. thankfully it was a through hole. I grabbed a carbide rotary file (burr) with a very sharp cone or point profile. used a die grinder. immediate results and ripped it to shreds. pulled out the chips with a magnet on the end of a scriber
yeah, that's the last place I would use four flute tap, I will go for the spiral, gun if you will, type tap. I believe it works best because it cuts one side of the "V" instead of both sides, like when you cut a male thread on a lathe.
I really enjoy your channel. Recently a neighbor came over with a broken easyout trying to remove a broken bolt from a casting. We wore out some drill bits, when I remembered I bought a Rodman 1/4” universal drill bit from a truck show. It cut like that carbide burr.
I've adopted two feral dingo dogs from Taiwan over the last 15 years. They're actually really cool animals. Notably different from traditional Western domestic dogs. My first one was part lab and it was a cool mix with the dingo. He was the best dog I've ever met in my life. When he passed I had hundreds of people reach out to say how much they'd loved him. Dozens of whom I'd never even met. This was pre Instagram too, these were people that had met him in person while a friend was watching him and friends of my partner who'd met him while I was at work or gone for the day. My current one is a full blown dingo and almost acts more like a cat than a dog most of the time. She's very independent and not as social, but very sweet with the people she knows and trusts.
Sometimes a needle nose that can be used as a spanner in the holes.
If you stick two drill bits in two opposing flute channels, you can usually walk those busted taps out with a crescent wrench on the two bits.
that's a novel idea sir
I'll be using that tip. Thanks brother
Tap extractor!!! Like most tools, you need practice using them and need the right size to get good results using them. I've successfully used them for retrieving a broken #6-32 up to a 1/2-13 taps. Start by blowing as many chips out of the hole as possible then add oil or cutting fluid. Make sure you can get the get the extractor rods down through the flutes. (spiral flute you're SOL) Next slide the collar down as close to the break as possible. GENTLY coax the broken tap back and forward until it willingly backs out with little effort. Most of the machinists I've helped out never saw a tap extractor before.
I just use a pencil/micro grinder with the carbide grinding end. Mainly for apex bits (hard as frig) stuck in titanium bolts/screws. It also works just as well on taps that people break off because they don't break the chip and go to hard to fast. Also, people don't know how to use a tap most of the time.
Now.. show me how to do it by hand under a car, and make it a crooked easyout stuffed into a 1/4-20 bolt that's in an aluminum block.
I did it with 3 broken studs from a 5.4 f150 that was up north, everything was rusted out down there, but i removed 3 studs without removing the engine or head, from the fender well by tig welding
+Kirby Weldon- i'm a professional auto mechanic. Ive had to deal with stupid crap like that before. get those cheap ass diamond engraving bits from harbor freight. a couple bucks for 50 of them. put them in your dremel at lower speed and just burn through whatever you need. you'll get a few things out before you run out of bits and you'll save a shit load of time if you act like the bits cost nothing. which they don't.
+zzdfhgdhd hahahahhahahahaha
ChrisHallett83 my method of choice
Kirby Weldon buy a new car.
I had a similar problem (wasn't a tap though, was an ez-out snapped off in a broken sparkplug stuck in my cars engine heads) I had no idea about the drillbits you used for this (and the ez-out was hard enough that cobalt ones did nothing), so I actually used a small 8mm diamond tipped holesaw (like you use for tile). Worked pretty good actually.
The only 1st, 2nd & 3rd TAPPING RULES I'VE EVER USED AND I HAVE NEVER BROKE A TAP.... #1 Always use a tapping fluid, of WD-40/Seafoam Deep Creep/PB Blast in a pinch. #2 If you're tapping any metals, always cut 1/4 to a 1/2 rotation of the tap and then GO IN REVERSE AND BACK OUT THE TAP 1 TO 1-1/2 TURNS. This "clears" the chips that can and will become jammed between the tap and the threads that you just cut, in the same hole. After backing the tap out, hen proceed cutting more of the threads, repeat the reversing step every 1/4 to 1 rotation, depending how much resistance you feel from the die and how difficult it is to turn. It's this resistance that eventually causes the tap to snap! #3 Always make sure your Tap and/or the die you are using IS SQUARE TO THE HOLE, or shaft you want to cut threads on. If it is not square, the deeper you go, the greater the chance you have of "locking up' the tap and snapping it's bitch-ass in half!!!
I have used the removal tool with the tines that fit between the flutes, I completely agree that they are junk. No luck with it at all. It's referenced here 13:30
I've had to use carbide burs on broken taps and bolts. When you work in the field, you have to find work-arounds.
Back in my fitting and machining days I would remove broken taps by getting a piece of thin flat bar - drilling a hole in the end smaller diameter that the tap and then mig weld the flat bar to the tap though the hole and use the flat bar as a spanner - it even helped if part of the tap was still protruding the hole
Thank you for making it clear to the foggy. I stand with you on your thoughts. I love fact-based off of real results.
Always a pleasure watching your videos. Keep up the good work.
I really like the audio in this format. The compression and delayed echo. I miss it in the new videos.
When I was an apprentice, I snapped a spiral tap deep down in a blind hole, and the way I ended up getting it out was heating it up for awhile with the oxy and pouring oil down it and then smashing it to bits with a punch (went through quite a lot of punches)
Just came across this. Damn awesomely hysterical! Very refreshing to watch/listen to someone actually out in the field! I'm hooked.
When drilling with carbide: not only does the lubricant reduce the heat by burning off - which will make the bit last longer - but the lubricant also helps the chip flow away from the cutting surfaces which will keep the bit from chipping it's cutting surfaces off when it otherwise is forced to bite chip plus material. It's a general rule in life: _"There's always time for lubricant."_ Holds just as true in machining.
Tap extractors do work, you have to get the extractor right up against the broken tap, and use lots of lube. Twist back and forth a bit, then slowly work the broken tap out.
I have had to remove more broken taps than I would have wanted to. I never found drilling worked very well, the break would almost always fracture the remaining tap and as you started drilling the fragments would break free, jam the drill and break that as well. Our solution to anything bigger than 16mm was a home made punch with a tough carbide insert (generally a trigon shape) brazed onto a rod and just bash the remaining section into crumbs. This used the taps brittleness against it. Then re-tap the hole and keep going.
This works. Just hammer them with a punch or so, hard metals like taps break easily. I have even managed to removed a 6mm tap in this way.
a sharp cone profile carbide rotary file in a die grinder seems to work best for me in extreme rescues. I cut through the flutes to release the tap and then chisel it out if possible. I pull the chips out with a scriber magnet. very effective method so far.
I worked with an incredibly good but also incredibly alcoolic old machinist.Anyway once I broken a tap in a 2x2 inch by 3 ft long piece of mild steel.After looking at the thing,he proceeded to smack the thing around at various hard targets to eventually vibrate the little tap out of its hole.It worked.
Due to youthful indiscretion there is right now, somewhere in the world, a piece of heavy machinery in operation that has a painted-over broken tap embedded in it.
Salvatore Shiggerino thatd be funny to find
+Salvatore Shiggerino >I shiggy-diggy
Not just one buddy...
That burr bit works dam well nice. I had one broken off. In the back of a platen. On a plactic injection molding machine. That was the best thing I found. Took my 90* air grinder. Half a work day later. Cleaned out the threads. And, the 1 1/2 hour job was complete.
Just crash landed on this channel!! Comepletely refreshing listening and watching!! Keep up the wizardry and shanagians,Im pickin up whatya lay'n down! Good stuff!!
I'm tired of your discriminatory race/color assumptions, my tap box is black not blue.....
@ARMOND WILLINGHAM LMAO
So is mine! And both are crappy chineeseum tappy's as well
u can buy carbide drill rod and just sharpen the end like a spade drill and drill with that. i keep various sizes in my box plus broken carbide endmill will also work.
Whenever I break a tap, I immediately hook up the air chisel with a tapered punch and angrily beat the $h!t out of the remaining tap pieces. Haven't run into an hss tap I can't destroy. Stumbled across this video while looking for the punch attachment thinking there may be a better way - not in my case - obliterated another tap while watching this video thinking about all the time I drilled through hardened steel with a masonry bit when I could have used a carbide burr.
If the tap snapped off because of a side load (using an adjustable wrench instead of a double end tap wrench) a tap extractor will generally work but if the tap was stuck and twisted off, then probably not. A lot of people do not have access to the equipment (mill) or maybe not even a drill press which makes a normal carbide machinist drill difficult to use successfully. Using a carbide masonry bit (easier to get) with a guide (hole in a 2x4 clamped in place) would be a good option, especially if it is sharpened. Start with as small a diameter drill as you can get. Another (slow but accessible ) solution is to use a abrasive/grinding bit in a Dremel type tool. In aluminum, if you can get it really hot (high oven baking temp 450F) the aluminum may expand enough to get the tap loose. Aluminum melts a bit above 1000F
Another awesome vid man! Always enjoy watching you, and getting some good laughs in. Keep it up! Adam
Abom79 3
Or get two small steel nails, put them in the little slots on the side and use a clamp to grab both nails and back the thing out, like an angle grinder wrench.
My thought exactly!
Ariel Lezen I have tried that but I haven't had a lot of luck with it myself. Have you had it work very often? I could just be unlucky I s'pose...
Ariel Lezen I do the same, it works 60% of the time, the other 40% is a long hard rumble match with a drill of your happy choosing.. in which you learn to love after drilling for 2-3 hours because you're to cheap to go out and buy another drill bit.
Ariel Lezen Exactly. Just build your own mini "spanner" to use to back it out.
+Peter Jensen I was thinking the same thing about the mini spanner. I have seen him make one in another video, not a mini though. What about welding a little nut on there?
This is easy when you have a drill press and a vice. Air drill by hand into a caliper bracket wasnt too bad, but you definitely need to make sure you hit it completely perpendicular.
The use of round nose solid carbide grinding burs work much better. Put the bur in the spindle of a Bridgeport milling machine and use the fine adjustment on the spindle stop and advance the burr a few thousands at a time. It will remove the tap can also use on broken easy outs.
my god this guy has one hell of a man card, shit!
+motorcity Mayhem engineer card , a bit different fear no machine, master all your allowed this year is a water well machine that does 1000 feet in solid rock, with a air hammer wholly duck commander the air pack has 900cfm at 300 psi. all that while im learning buck transformers and building the cat motor for the deck and A ve astounds me, engineer cards, they just are not human
+motorcity Mayhem real men do not require cards
real men have spare cards
real men don't need ANY cards to figure out if their a man... depending on a card keeps you being a man.
spoken like a cardless woman
Don't let the PC crowd shut you up... We love your videos and commentary!!!!
Talking with your hands! Priceless
Many years ago, I broke a tap off in an engine head just trying to clean the threads in the hole. Took the head to an EDM shop and they extracted the tap (burned it out) leafing the threads in the head clean as a whistle. Best $20 I ever spent!!!
I TIG weld them out. Never been defeated. Gonna make a necklace.
ProfessorBraincramp same i tig weld an Allen key to them
I think he means he just burns through them with the electrode
I'm surprised you didn't use a left handed drill bit!?..and a center drill. Fellow journeyman machinist here!
Welder: just gouge it out and fill it in then lets go for lunch in 10 minutes.
It's all good as long as they don't perform ultrasonic inspection.
I braze a nut to it using silicone-bronze & tig. Do it all the time. Great for broken bolts too. Just build up a stack of tacks to the broken offender, then choose a nut that'll fit over the stack, then weld the center of the nut full. Cool down, back it out. Done it with mig also. Just not with taps. Broken tap, everdoo.
There once was a vid on the confuser made by Ave the KZheadr He found in the midst a tap he could twist and broke it right off in some armor
4 tanged tap removers: I've tried them many times, mostly because we had every size known to mankind in the tool crib at work, and all new, too! I never got them to work on any broken tap, that I couldn't have otherwise simply removed with needle nose pliers. Great tutorial!
I wonder if you can get one designed to go in a (manual) impact driver, that'd probably do it
I had a real problem where you manufactured yours. I was using a quality tap that fractured and would not come out with a tap remover, so I used a hardened punch and shattered the broken tap, surprisingly it saved me time and money. Sometimes brute force works best.
That was pretty awesome, doesn't happen often but when it does it's great to have some alternate plans
I LOVE your "racist" comments. People are just too sensitive these days. I've had people literally shouting at me because it was too offensive to say the word cripple... about MYSELF (legit crip with a limp and everything). The skin a cat comment, it was amazing. Please never change.
I also prefer the term cripple. I was crippled in a car accident so it seems to fit,
You are one cute cripple :*
@B.Dandy well she's comfortable about being called a cripple and she's also cute.. So how am I a creep?
@B.Dandy dude get a life, stop telling people what they should or should not say..this is the internet for God's sake! yeah I think it is a compliment because IT is a compliment, for her not for you so deal with it
Olivia Lambert he is talking about garbage stuff not race
cheap taps are only good for cleaning already tapped holes, i use them as an auto technician
Agree,,, the lube on cutting/drill bit tool i always saw as a cooling mechanism more than anything.
Stuffed 4 welding rods between the flutes and grabbed the whole shebang with vice-gripes. Actually worked AND, I ended up with art work ta-boot!
I like to use a left handed drill for stuff like that.
+3000gtwelder EXACTLY
Left handed carbide drills are kind of hard to come by. I've been doing this for 35 years and most of these comments and recommendations work for bolts but taps are a different situation. This video method is about the easiest way without damaging hole.
That broken drill can be ground down and resharpened .
There is an old gunsmiths' trick to broken taps, two of them, actually. The first is to get carbon steel ones, but good ones. There is one American company still making them, you can get them through Brownel's. The carbon steel taps are much more brittle than HSS, so you put a punch on the tap and give it a good wack and the tap will shatter into a million pieces, allowing you to fish them all out. The second is to grind a notch on the shank so that it breaks on the shank rather than in the teeth, giving you something to grab. Bonus: just buy a new tap for every project. I am aware of one gunsmith shop that charges the customer for a new tap if one is needed for that service. They are cheap compared to wasting your time getting a broken one out.
I have a selection of left hand drills which sometimes catch and back them right out. EDM machines are the best if you have access.
I genuinely appreciate that you volume adjusted for the drilling during your editing. Was watching while I was at work, so I was worried that it would be too loud to watch without disrupting my office mates.
Something i did when i broke a drill bit in a hole was heat the area around the hole and a pair of pliers was enough to get it out.
I want to hang out and drink beer with this guy just go hear his stories and his funny little sayings haha. But also this video was actually helpful! Thanks!
Most job shops keep a supply of reground carbide ball end mills around, much better than using a drill bit on broken taps. Coolant does help but your air is better, as you peck use the air and give the hole a shot now and then to keep the small bits and pieces out of the hole.
im german and not having a thoat disease :P loving your videos :) keep up the good work!
I'm nearly german. The one With the throat disease. _Goedemorgen! en Groetjes uit Jipsingboetange!_