Kitchen workbench socket mounting height? eFIXX electricians Q&A
What height should a 13A socket be mounted above a kitchen worktop? Joe Robinson delves into BS7671 and NICEIC snags and solutions to find a definite answer.
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#efixx #electriciansQ&A
I’d like to correct you on what a tiler would like.. Setting the socket one tile up actually causes cutting problems as it will often leave slivers of the remaining tile which will break. A tiler will prefer you to sit the horizontal centreline to match a grout line, so effectively one and a half tiles to the centre of the box. This will give the maximum remaining tile at both top and bottom. It’s more cutting but the job is then stronger and neater. This obviously assumes the smaller tiles. If a socket looks misaligned on to a tile backing the customer will always blame the tiler when it was the sparky who set the level.
Normally fit them 1150mm to the centre of the box from the floor, it gives a nice gap from the worktop and if there is a light switch it can be mounted the same height and looks neat.
sensible option 👍🏻
Exactly what I do.
Snap
I do the same looks bang on at that height
Fantastic video Joe as always 👍👍👍❤️⚡️
in the states, it is normal for the flex to come straight out from the plug, so we don't have the bending space concern. but we do have an official rule that a receptacle may not be face up in a kitchen countertop. my rule of thumb is four feet above rough floor, same as switches, but i've had them anywhere from in a chase on the countertop, to in a chase on the underside of the upper cabinet, as well as a few cases where the only way go get one in the area it had to accommodate was to put it in a tip out drawer face in front of the sink. there's one place where the small US style receptacles have an advantage. I can squeeze them into an inch of space in a pinch.
I go 1050 to the bottom. Think they look daft when they’re well higher than the worktop
That'll just about achieve the 100mm recommended value above the worktop. 👍
@@efixx in fairness, in the past it was always on the spec sheets of every job I done commercially, hotels, schools, new build apartments, student accommodation etc so I’ve just carried on from that
I check there is no granite upstands as this can stop plugs being able to be plugged into flat plate sockets
Good point. 👍
I usually have Quasimodo level them by eye. He can level the top and bottom sockets with his wonky eyes. When he has days off, I normally level the sockets with a laser level between 1150-1200 to top of outlet with the clients input. At least this way the customers happy and their are no regrets after 👍. It's good to see a kitchen plan to make sure any of the outlets don't fall behind larder unit. Unless they are for integrated appliances.
Worktops tend to be packed with appliances with the plugs permanently in sockets. Having the bottom of the sockets just above the height of toaster means the switch is accessible.
My kitchen, we fitted then 1 tile up. We do have a kitchen socket 2" off the floor ;)
I try to keep them the same height as any existing sockets or above the first tile so less cutting of tiles, I have also done 150mm centre if tiles are unknown
Top tip Tipton! 😊
@@efixx I like what you did there😅
😁
110cm from fixed floor puts in centre of wall between worktop and wall cabinets
Use worktop upstand as your standard distance.
1200mm to the top of socket… normal height of work top at 910mm allow 100mm for upstand…then tiles had no issues… but always confirm with customer …
Sounds like a plan! 👍
I'd like to know if , sparks like fitting sockets behind intergrated wash/machine ./dryers ...as when you push back.. the door alignment is not gonna be in sync ( kitchen fitters hate them there) they prefer in cupboard 🤔 if you understand that. Is there , a guide or code to this problem . Great channel Joe Gaz & Gordon.
Great question, we may do a full Q&A vid on this. Quick answer is I prefer in the cupboard not behind the appliance and an isolator above the worktop. 😊
@@efixx yeah. Me too Thanks 👍
@@efixx Correct answer! Take a sweetie and sit down 🤪😎 (kit fitting for 30 yrs 😬🥴)
@@efixx if your fitting a socket inside the cupboard why do you need a isolator above the work top when you can easily unplug the appliances to isolate?
Ah thanks! 😊
Hi, Can you please tellme what the yellow boxes are called which go around sockets to stop the plasterer from getting plaster in the socket?
Sockitz
Wherever the client wants them, they're paying! But i do guide them if I think they are too low/high. Ultimately it's their money, their call
Fair shout, as long as its not going to damage the flex when it's plugged in. 😊👍
Regulations seem to be trying to find an absolute answer for every question - and of course this is not possible. Use common sense and judgement...
Keep the tiler happy it doesn't keep me happy when he leaves a tile half over the socket fixing lug mind you it doesn't bother my when I have him called back to cut the tile or even when i chip the tile. Building trade you got to love it.
Some things never change do they? 😊
Common courtesy to look out for the guy coming behind you. But common things aren’t so common anymore. Alas. 😕 Kindness is a choice we all get to make.
Agreed. 💪
i always fit 1 tile above the work top for both 4in + 6in tiles
Good shout. 👍
Electricians Guide to Building Reg's states 150mm to the center of the face plate. Hope that helps.
Top tip, thanks!
Used to mount them 1100 to centre but now mount them 1200 to match light switches incase any are nearby
Seems reasonable!
I fit them at 1200mm to the top of the box from Finnish floor level same as the switch so all is dead level
Nice. 👍
I do the same if the client doesn't mind what height they go or if they don't know what tiles their having.
and what if they have a norwegian floor?
I always found out the hight of the tiles , then 1 tile high so to minimise tile cutting
Nice work! 👍
Vibrating devices should be plugged in at 150mm above the worktop for entertaining purposes ...
Yet 5.2.3 item F of The Electricians Guide to the building regulations says the center of the socket should be 150mm above the work bench.
If the splashback tiles are 100mm then this height is actually perfect.
1100 Centre for switches and kitchen sockets
Fair shout.
Been putting sockets at 1200 to top for 30+ yrs as std
In kitchens or lounges? 🤔😂
I cannot stand tilers, so I mount them at 45 degrees 1/2 tile up
1200 same as switch dummy
I love it when the code is so vague. that entry was of no help at all....
There is also the distance from a sink.. Common sense has to prevail doing that. I have seen idiots fit them directly behind gas hobs, open to grease, heat, being knocked by large pans, etc.
Wise words … common sense 👍
@@efixx unfortunately “common” sense is actually extremely uncommon, you can’t fix stupid however you can remove all warning labels and issue will sort itself just stock up on Darwin awards 😂
of course, you've probably also seen them placed perfectly according to the layout, and then everything's been moved around when the finish work is done.
Recommend 300mm or even 400 above worktop so accessible without getting 'lost' behind appliances. Also less likely to be splashed.
I fit them 1200mm to the bottom of the socket
Is that not a bit high? 🤔
Always mounted back boxes in kitchens on new builds 42 inches from the finished floor level to the bottom of the back box. This allows a 6 inch tile from the top of the work top to the bottom of the box.
@@efixx I keep it high to stay clear of any tiles or upstand
wouldn't you love to see what the people who write regs look like ?
The people or their own home electrics ⚡️?
Gary is certainly included in the 12 men and true, as a given expert in the readily available EICR directional book.
Would that be before or after the folks who have to _follow_ the regs had got to them?
they look like insurance underwriters.
I do love it when 'Office Dwellers' tell me how to do my job 😂