Review of the Fuji X100 VI next to the Leica Q3
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The DR 400 comparison is blowing my mind! Well done sir
News to me as well, testing on my X100F this week, I'm curious what shooting in the day time at 800 will look like!
Normally I wouldn't run DR 400 because min ISO gets raised but with the ND filter, this is now possible.
As someone who shoots the Q and M series, as well as Fujifilm, this is, hands-down, the most factual and nuanced discussion in which these two cameras are compared and contrasted. Thank you.
X100v then spend £5000 on travel
Yep, my new X100VI is off on a tour of China in a few weeks. I guess I could have bought a Q3 and took a tent to West Wales instead at least the Q3 could stand the rain….
XE1 then spend 6000 on travel😂
That meant something in 2019…these days, enjoy your 2 weeks in Cancun
@@kubowich I just spend 10weeks on holiday in Europe for less than 2000. Drove through Sweden, Germany, France and Spain and even rented sn apartment for 1 month.
@@stayuntilforeveryou can BS yourself but please, don’t try this on me. You’ll spend 2000 on a monthly car rental + gas alone. I am from Europe so I have pretty much an idea how much things cost around here. 100 USD per tank of gas, 20-30 USD per meal…you get the picture. And that monthly rent thing :D hilarious. Did you rent a spot under a bridge?
Had an X100v, sold it when I sold all my Fuji gear and switched to Sony for weddings , and picked up a Q2 for me. This was around 2 years ago. Sold the Q2 a month or so ago, and managed to snag an X100vi. Used it for a few days and although I loved the V, after using the Q2 it just wasn’t the same for me anymore. Sold the X100vi, bought a Q3 and over the last week, realised I’ve made the right choice. I wanna take it everywhere with me, and if I didnt have weddings, I’d sell everything and just have the Q3. Incredible camera
Needed to hear that. Thx
Selling my Fuji gear for a Q3 as well. Can I ask how you managed to score a Q3 so quickly? I ordered from my local shop around 3 weeks ago, and probably have a few months to wait.
@@DavidHalleenhey!! Not sure where you are located but try the Leica store in meatpacking NYC
@@DavidHalleenI’m in UK, I got it directly from Leica UK
I have both .. x100vi and q3 … I agree completely much more enjoy using the Q3.. what I’m starting to miss is my Q2M .. sold that once I had Q3 … won’t sell Q3 til Q3M comes out or keep both 😂 …. I’m still keeping the X100vi for now because of built in flash and being so compact … I got rid of everything (Sony & Fuji) when got I Q2M .. It’s so nice just having the all in one compact camera
great video. as clean as always. That DR400 just opened my eyes. will try it out on my XT1 and XT2
The fact that the Fuji is even in the dame conversation as the Q3 says a lot about the Fuji.
Word!
Any camera can be in the discussion, as long as somebody starts and shares that discussion. The point is, no matter how long you discuss, Leica will always be miles ahead of Fuji in every possible way. EVERY SINGLE WAY.
@@kubowich The Leica Q3 doesn’t have a built in ND filter while the X100VI does. So there’s at least one thing the Fuji does better. Furthermore many people would choose Fuji straight out of camera colors over Leicas any day. If anything this comparison shows that paying the Leica tax gets you diminishing returns. I own two Leicas, great cameras, but 100% overpriced compared to other offerings out there from different brands. Dollar for dollar the Fuji is by far the winner when you consider how much you pay for the results you get.
@@kubowich Except when it comes to ND filters. Leica is late to the party on that one.
@@Wazhadnin-wj5te Imagine seeing the 28 summilux which can do proper hard stop manual focus and Autofocus attached to a full frame sensor and thinking a ND filter is a dunk. Ignoring that you can simply put a ND filter on the Leica. Fuji fanboys are the best 🤣🤣
Dr400 is a must, have been using it since xt1 days, the extra dynamic range you got is impressive. I have never been impressed by smartphone dynamic range until iphone 15 pro, because the fuji is just as good as the iphone
Great video, just quick question do you use any filter on your Q3???
Thanks! Nicely done. I have the Fuji XT5, the Q2M, and the iPhone 14 right now and I’m very happy with my gear and my range! I’ll keep following you! Geoff
Pretty sure pal2tech has a DR400 explainer but i can give it a go: When you crank the ISO, the same amount of light is hitting the sensor - but the sensor basically amplifies the signal. When you shoot at DR400 at ISO 640, it exposes the image at 160 - 1/4 of what you specified - and then amplifies the signal 4x (400%) to 640. What it does is then combine those two signals. It can do this in RAW because it’s working with analog signals to achieve this - not the digital file. This is also *why* you have a high ISO requirement - it works at the base ISO and higher, which on the X trans 4 sensor in the X100V and my XT30 is 160 , and then multiplies it. If there’s interest I might make a video, this is a very common question
Just learned something new, and you DEFINITELY need to make a video on this lol.
@@TopshelfJuniorhe is referencing a Pal2Tech video about DR400, it's on KZhead right now
So I think you're right about boosting the signal, which is why the required ISO goes up, but I don't think it it blending two exposures. Red, Canon and others have these features and the results look distinctly different from a high latitude image. If it were a dual gain sensor like the Alexa or C70, that would have a similar effect but that's not the case with this fuji sensor. Whatever it's doing, I love the results, but I would love even more to have a clear explanation from fuji.
Just rewatched the pal2tech video and seems like it’s actually using the min ISO (640 for 400% on my XT3 for example) or higher for the shadows and using a lower ISO for the highlights to avoid blowing them out.
@@stalman You can underexpose the camera yourself and then push it 1stop i think DR 400 is. Gives the same results. From when I've tested the 400% DR i noticed there was a colour shift in the pictures as well.
This is the exactly the video I have been waiting for
I have the X100V which I got just after launch and it’s been great. However, it’s one weakness is sun stars and I wondered if the Q3 produced great sun stars? Any info on this would be much appreciated. Absolutely great review on all fronts, especially the DR400, I will be experimenting with that.
Hey Tyler, do you have an X100V to compare? A lot of the focus/sharpness was fixed with the V lens. Great comparison!
8:09 dude… had no idea. Thank you for bringing this to light!
Have you played with the Ricoh GR iiix at all? Interested to hear opinions on that in comparison to these
I would love to spend time with it, but I’d love even more to see Ricoh update it
Great review, thanks! One question: What's the advantage using the ND filter versus higher shutter speeds? The electronic shutter could manage even a F2 in very bright situations? Where am I wrong? 🙂
The electronic shutter works fine you hold still but the rolling shutter is insane and brutally distorts photos if the camera moves while shooting
DR settings are also applied to RAW files. It shoots underexposed photo, thus having a lot of room for highlights, and then it pushes the exposure digitally to make it look normal.
Maybe, but can you point me to any official Fuji documentation about this or all we all just guessing?
@@stalman Watch Pal2Tech's Understanding Dynamic Range Settings video. Per usual, he covers this thoroughly with examples. Agreed that Fujifilm could do much better at communicating what is actually happening (ISO is raised to allow underexposing by 1 or 2 stops, therefore protecting highlights, and midtones-shadows are boosted during the A-to-D conversion) and that it applies to both JPG and RAW files. Edit: Even reading back my explanation would be confusing to the newcomer. Minimum ISO is raised. This gives the camera the room to drop the ISO during capture, thereby underexposing.
@@blankmelon There is also a color shift in the pictures when using the 400% Is better to leave the iso at 160 at push it raw. From what I can remember it does something to the RAW metadata in the file.
Nd filter you can activate with the evf/ovf selector if you hold on for 3 seconds. You can use the fn button for another use.
Hey Tyler - thanks for the great video. The DR400 under exposes by 2 stops and then brightens it back up in camera by those two stops and saves the highlights that way. The ISO shown is actually reflects the comparative ISO after it's been brought up by 2 stops. In order to compare the DR100 and DR400 you need to underexpose the DR100 by 2 stops and then raise it back up again in LR - I expect you will see the similar results when doing things that way. Shooting RAW at DR400 is the same as shooting DR100 with -2 exposure comp all except the way the image will be displayed afterwards on the back screen and the starting point with lightroom. The RAW data is still the same. The real advantage of this is when shooting Jpeg since it allows you some of the Dynamic range advantages of RAW while shooting JPEG.
That’s my guess too but can you find any official Fuji info about it? Seems weird that we all just need to figure it out And the advantage is there in raw too, because underexposing by 2 stops is a miserable way to shoot
Is it me or does that just expose the limitation of this sensor? Sony sensors for example get full dynamic range (several stops more than DR400) from the non extended range of ISO, why do we need to bump up the ISO to 800 on Fuji to get a measly 11 stops is it of dynamic range?
If i shoot in bright daylight the raw Dynamic Range at 160 or 120 iso is totally enough for me. When there is massive highlights that i want to recover, i shoot in HDR 800+ in Fuji and somehow it has the best Dynamic range I've seen because it affects the raw files as well
If that were the case why would it need to be shot at 2x base iso? From what I have been lead to believe it exposes highlights at 2 stops lower than it exposes the shadows and merges them somehow? I may be wrong but I don't understand if its only boosting an underexposed image why it would need to shoot at ISO 500 min.
@@tobiahtayo5149 it’s to do with how ISO works. The same amount of light hits the sensor regardless of ISO. It then amplifies the signal off the sensor to get to your target ISO. Assuming a base ISO of 160, for example, an exposure at ISO 640 is effectively a shot at 160, amplified 4x (2 stops) to land at 640. This is an analog process, as I understand it, so the base signal and amplified signal sit on top of each other and get saved in the digital file. If you ask it to shoot DR400, you’re asking it to amplify the signal 4x - but it can’t do that below 4x the base ISO, it doesn’t math.
I have both cameras as well, and I use them for very different purposes. Like you said, Tyler, the X100 lives in the pocket of the jacket, or you wear it around your torso, to be there 100% of the time, ready to shoot amazingly rendered creative colors. The Q3 is on another level, meaning it does shoot for the most digitally accurate representation, regarding sharpness, contrast, and color, so it’s not for everyday shooting. It’s for that landscape/posed photo that you know you need all the data to work on it after the fact. But there’s one huge difference where the Fuji is king: software. So many times, my Q3 hung and failed because of software, not to mention the loss of photos because of that. That never happened to me on all the 4 X100s I owned. The recent Q3 update fixed a lot of issues, but then again, that update should have been the one released from day one, meaning they have issues with it. Finally, after contacting Leica and looking under the hood at the Leica app, the Q3 accepts .CUBE files to render on camera, like the Lumix cameras do, but just not officially. If that becomes a trend, the X100 series will have some tough competition. Great video as always!
Sorry, can you clarify the .CUBE file thing? Is there a tutorial for that?
@@bsmayerr the Leica Q3 has something called Looks, that you can upload from the app to the camera. Under the hood, it's .CUBE files, that are packaged with the app that the camera gets once you decide to upload it. I asked Leica if they would ever open that API part of the app to devs (like myself), and they said: "Not for now..."
@@schmitzoide If they ever do that, I can see a lot of people using it. I mean, the Looks they provided with the Q3 are kinda Meh in my opinion. But if they ever allow users to upload custom looks through the app, that would be huge!
Ive had a Q3 since beginning October 2023, I usually just shoot events so come back with easily 1k shots or more per event. I ‘ve take taken well over 10k photos with Q3, it never had any issues with it freezing or losing a file. I’ve always used Sandisk Extreme Pro 300mb UHS II 256gb and 128gb. Same card with my Q2M never an issue. I did have issues with X100vi freezing on me while shooting an event when I first got. Figured out reason was because I was shooting in bracket mode for film simulation, camera was not only making 3 different jpegs but also 3 raw files too, UHS I couldn’t handle that
@@casadelouie I have taken not even 3000, and lost about 10 of them, even ones that have a gray half bottom that sent to Leica where they promised a software update that would fix that (that eventually came out). I have 12k photos taken between the first edition of the X100, the 2nd, 5th and now 6th. No failures. Always used the recommended cards for both models. 🤷
hey i'm not sure if you're still responding to comments on here but i've never heard that it's better to lay the camera down because of the leaf shutter. do you have any resources or links with more information on this? i have never heard this and couldn't find anything when google searching. i just see people asking whether or not it's better to leave the shutter cocked. i also haven't heard anybody else mention it when talking about the x100 series.
They’re both great; inspiring and fun to use. (I’ve owned the earlier versions.) I took the original Q on a long motorcycle trip, which worked out fine, although the x100 would be better, in a way, both for its smaller size as well as the lower cost in case anything happens to it.
Hilarious that at 6:54 you just contradicted the entire strength of the Fuji system. You can do that all in camera, and once dialed in, not only have a full cohesive set of perfect JPEGs, but also save it into a profile. Throw the editing PC out the window and enjoy shooting! Fuji freed me from the headache of wasting time messing with RAW, and I shoot combined JPEG/RAW so the back up is there if I need it. The thing is, for the price of the Leica you can have the X100VI and an additional medium format GFX that simply is far beyond the Leica in regards to utility potential. Great review!
I know that works for some people, I love the idea of an SOOC lifestyle, but I’ve never dialed in a jpeg look that I’m satisfied with. Maybe someday!
If mine ever arrives, I'll test the DR 400 as well
Great vid 👍 I learnt a couple of new things.
Your observation about storing the camera is intriguing. I didn't come across any mention of it in the manual, but it's good to be aware of. Additionally, the camera was positioned this way in the box
I learned this the hard way
@@stalman Were you able to unstuck them or had to send for repair? How "old" was your camera when this happened? Thanks
@@juantasticothat doesn't happen with modern leaf shutters, it has been fixed since the 2000s. It was an issue for older MF leaf shutters since they were so big and the mechanisms less robust. Shouldn't be a problem for today's shutters so store away 😊
@@CallMeRabbitzUSVI Thanks also what I thought !
Your comparison is spot-on. A small comment though on your intuition about DR (7:33), while the DR400 setting does adjust exposure downward during capture and then compensates by boosting shadows and mid-tones, it's essential to note that reducing exposure in Lightroom doesn't directly alter the light hitting the sensor. This setup is ideal for JPG shooting but compromises image quality in raw files. DR400 effectively reduces dynamic range by almost 2 stops, visible mainly in shadow areas. While Fuji's processing enhances JPGs with noise reduction and shadow boost, it sacrifices raw file potential. You can easily replicate it by underexposing your pictures 1 or 2 stops at minimum iso and then boosting midtones and shadows, although, the precise curve fuji uses is quite elusive.
The DR settings are just baking in some tone curve manipulation, I tested the settings last year with my Xyla 21 to have a good handle on what it's doing. If you are ok with slightly noisier shadows, but gain a stop or two of highlight information, then it's totally worth it.
That would make sense and is probably the most likely explanation, but what variable is it changing to capture the lower exposure of the DR400 image? Obviously the shutter and aperture are what they are, so behind the scenes it’s using a lower ISO to save the highlights, but showing a higher ISO in the raw data? It could be, but I would love to get confirmation
@@stalman Yes, so it's just a metadata tag to the file and that tag tells the file what tone curve to attach to it. So the camera uses a low or base ISO and then the tone curve itself they use just mimics what the brightness of the shadows and midtowns would be if it were actually exposed at a higher ISO and since it's all their software architecture and they know how they are metering/calculating, etc. it's pretty accurate. The tone curve is pretty straightforward and easy to reproduce, so you could use it on other raw images or create a custom camera color profile with the same tone curve if you wanted to be able to have a similar experience with other camera brands.
got my q3 in all places in dubai on a 1 day layover was the last one in stock they just got it in stock an hour ago from deliveries and picked it up. was nervous about dropping 6k but man..... i love that camera its all i use now. Having sonys, nikons, and fujis. Just because of the build quality the size and the colors and quality of glass is just unmatched. have a order for a fuji x100vi but keep getting pushed back by months...
The elephant in the room is that the X100VI is far more portable than the Q3. Which is the main point of the X100VI- the best camera is the one you have on yourself at all times. Unfortunately, the Q3's massive fixed lens actually makes it less portable than most cameras. Coupled with that extreme price tag, you're far more likely to take out X100VI and get more use out of it.
Calling the Q3 lens massive is a stretch. It’s not a pancake lens like the Fuji, but for full frame fast lenses, it’s quite compact. But I see what you’re saying.
Yeah I both agree and don’t. It’s definitely not as compact, but in practical they fit in the same bags and very compact compared to most pro camera systems. But it’s still a W for the Fuji
@@ibradeybunch I disagree, It's larger than most fuji primes. But more importantly, you can't take the lens off which results in you having to carefully carry a weird triangle shape around all day. The magic of the X100 is its portability, what's the point of the Q3 when it's more inconvenient than than your go to Mirrorless or DSLR camera?
@@stalman Yea I see your point, but in a bag I'd be a bit worried about damaging the Q3 lens unless you had exactly the right space for that shape. I think as a concept it doesn't work, but people still love it because its autofocus digital Leica. Just not the best comparison between use cases for cameras.
@@sssf55 I carried a Q around several foreign countries like Finland, Mozambique, South Africa. It was not awkward or uncomfortable to carry around all day. The difference between carrying a Q and an X100 is slight in reality. The main difference for me is 35mm vs 28mm as a field of view.
You can definitely see the increased resolution and sharpness around the eyes. It is surely a significant boost.
Dont worry about laying your camera flat for the leaf shutter, that was a problem with the older Medium Format leaf shutters since they were so heavy and the mechanisms werent as robust as they are today. The modern leaf shutters are made with vertical storage in mind since the 2000s, so store it anyway you want. It wont damage 👍
I had my X100 blades lock up after a couple years in storage, that’s why I make the recommendation. But it goes for any lens that is being stored for a long time, aperture blades can lock up too
Great review Tyler but you forgot to mention a very very important feature on Fujifilm X100VI, which is Hybrid Viewfinder! I am using X100F and Hybrid Viewfinder is the main reason that I love this camera. It's a very unique technology and well implemented in this compact camera. If you switch off LCD screen and only use Hybrid Viewfinder, you can shoot all day with its little battery. Besides there is a lens hood for Fujifilm X100VI, which is little and neat.
Thanks for the review, I will go with Ricoh GR
Q3 far superior with NO question, but if you afraid to pick it up, carry it with you everywhere - what's the point?
You get to say that you have one and make videos to flex it haha
Oh! I didn't know about the DR400 setting. That's huge.
I tried out both. I went with the VI. The Q3 only had a slightly wider FOV and slightly lower pixel density but the images from both were remarkably similar. The in-body stabilization on the VI vs the optical stabilization on the Q3 was also a big plus for the VI. And the VI is a lot lighter. I think you mentioned the cost difference, too. That also helped.
If you use shutterspeed on A then how could other cameras possibly feel like work? Setting your exposure is then no different to the other cameras.
Every time I learn something new from your videos 🤯 by far the best comparison between the Q3 and X100VI. For me, someone that also used both, the Q3 is by far higher quality in every aspect, but also less fun. It felt more like work. FUJI: Vibe, Atmosphere, Street, experimental Leica: Ads, Social Media, clean images
Great video!! But Sorry gotta roll my eyes on the leaf shutter store facing up tip. With all the leaf shutters I’ve used in 40 years in various lenses I’ve never heard this suggested nor have I had an issue
what’s the risk of storing it a different way?
Regarding the DRxxx settings: I thought for some reason, but can't find a reference right now, that Fuji had given the explanation of this being a bit of a dual ISO dealio. Not dual base ISO as like with video settings, but more like a bit of built-in exposure stacking like the C70 or GH6 have
THANK YOU for making this video! I was just opening KZhead to see the difference and you uploaded this at the same time. Thats GOOD timing right there hahaha! Cheers Tyler
Wow, a really excellent in-depth Compo vid of the Fuji 6 and the Q3. And the gem of info that Fuji photos are much near to their full potential than the Leica (Raw ?) images which need some grading to get to their best, is a very useful and pertinent piece of info. I’ll need to re-watch again - at least once more - to glean all the info you pumped out. Great, thks.
Glad you have not only X100VI but also a Q3! 😮
It's interesting what you say about the best position to store digital cameras with leaf shutter. I had never read that they should not be stored vertically, I imagine you mean if they are stored for very long periods of time.
Well if you plan to keep your camera for a long time, the more it spends on its front or back, the less chance it will jam And I say this because it’s happened to me
Great information about the DR400. Thank you!
Wanted to weigh in on the DR400 topic. It has been known that these modern hybrid sensors always work better when they are giving a base ISO that isn't too low because if you shoot at too low of a ISO you don't have much latitude to pull back, but if you are at a higher ISO you are given more information to dial back to. This just shows that these hybrid sensors are now are now better utilized at a ISO 400 or 800, same as you would if you were shooting video.
In DR400, the camera is taking the photo at an actual ISO of -2 EV. So when you shot at ISO 500 with DR400, it was actually captured with the sensor gain at ISO 125 and the camera boost the shadows and midtones in camera and baked into the RAW files. In contrast, when you shot at ISO 500 with DR100, it was shot with the sensor gain set at actual ISO 500. Other cameras can do this too BUT they don't bake it into the raw file. Instead, it's just metadata that your software may or may not acknowledge. For example, if I use a similar feature on my Nikon Z (Active D-Lighting), some tone sliders will be adjusted already when I import the RAW file in Lightroom. The beauty in Fujifilm's implementation is it makes the sliders on the editing app much more powerful in highlight recovery. The only downside is possible more noise and loss of detail in the shadows and mids but they hardly matter as the in-camera processing is very good and looks natural. I always have it on my GFX and on my X-Series cameras when I still had one.
Q3 macro is forced f/2.8, so the X100VI is at a bit of a disadvantage at macro distances at f/2 by comparison. Just stopping down the 100VI to f/2.2 makes a huge difference.
That’s a good point
How do VIEWFINDERS compare? and differentiate
Thank you for this truly excellent comparison. Though many out there claim its not a fair comparison due to the price range and So call different “Class” But you pick a very objective point to compare as both are “compact large sensor fixed prime lens”. I had placed preorder for x100vi but was taken aback as now the waiting time like uncertain.. Yet suddenly an opportunity opened to me to buy Leica Q3 which I did buy..So before “Buyer’s remorse or regrets” setting in me I’m trying to find some justifications !
Even if people aren’t choosing between the two, I think it’s interesting to see what the price difference offers
killin it in the purple carhartt hoodie brah
I’ve shot every generation of X100 since 2011 and have *never* heard of storing it lens up. Never had an issue with any of my cameras storing it ‘normal’ or sideways in a bag. Also never had an issue with my decades old hasselblad 501c and any of its leaf shutter lenses. Regarding DR, I have always shot Fujis at ISO400 with the increased dynamic range
I’ve had this happen exact issue, just google X100 jammed shutter
@@stalman I vaguely remember the sticky aperture blade problem from the original x100 and came across random posts of ‘stuck shutter buttons’, but nothing about how storing your camera affects either. What evidence do you have of that claim?
Appreciate the insight on the topic Tyler..thank you!....it's funny people have mentioned for that price point and "German engineering" you would think that they would have had the flip screen to be way more flush with the body, like the X100VI..Fuji is so seamless looking and feeling compared to the Q3..totally noticeable at the 4:29 mark..lol .its subtle obviously but the design could have been way better..maybe on the Q4..they will borrow some design cues from Fuji..haha
Learned something re the dr400 thing. Thanks.
Dear Tyler, here’s what I think is going on with the DR settings: Modern camera sensors are (mostly) ISO-less. This means that technically speaking the RAW data from the sensor should be able to have any selectable ISO setting applied afterwards. Unfortunately, all camera manufactuers are not transparent about this (see Tony Northrups video about it) When you set ISO 100 in camera, to achieve a ‘normal’ exposure on the meter, your exposure settings needed will deliver more light, leading to faster highlight blowout. If you raise the in camera ISO and compensate your SS/Iris, you will deliver the sensor less light overall. this should mean highlight detail is retained more. Where we get into speculation is what Fujifilm is doing in DR400 setting to achieve the same overall ‘exposure’ just with more highlight detail. But it makes sense why this should work, if the fujifilm sensors are overall more sensitive to highlight overexposure.
It's actually really weird (interesting) that there is a "ISO Bracketing" on Fuji cameras. It takes only ONE image, but it produces 3 RAW files with different ISO. You'd think it will take 3 images using different ISO say ISO 100, 200 and 400 but it doesn't. Camera only shoots once. How does it work? I don't know, but I think there's something similar going on here with DR400.
@@stinka17 that’s a very interesting clue!
Nice comparison video! 3 observations: 1)The Fuji is dope! Love their colors & 'recipes' customization feature! 2) That Leica Q3 is a little beast and dare I say even sweeter than the Fuji (Fuji's recipe's system notwithstanding) but at the penalizing cost of multiple times that of the Fuji possibly a 50/50 toss up. 3) Incorrect statement about 'no other camera brand doing anything interesting with color' comparable to Fuji. Panasonic Lumix Realtime LUT feature is probably the ULTIMATE color customization feature available in any current camera(?). Great video as always though. 🙂
just discovered first hand about DR400 yesterday with my X-T3! It's great.
I didn’t think a fixed camera would ever be for me.. but since I got my x100vi I’ve hardly touched my Nikon Z8.. the convenience is a huge selling point.. the flash and nd filter are game changing also.. went to Dubai and it’s all I took with me and it was fantastic. I hope to one day test a Leica to see what the fuss is but I don’t think with the price point i can be sold
got the x100v when it first came out and wasn't sold out with all the hype. had it for 2 months. sold and got a used Q. never looked back. now have a q3.
VOW! I thought that DR doesn't effect raw. Thanks for this info, I've now switched all my Fujis over.
For me the X100vi became a totally different camera after I started shooting JPEG with the film presets. I absolutely love it. The Leica's (M11 in my case) beats the Fuji hands down in RAW. Just wish the X100vi had 30 or so custom settings to have a bunch of classic films and then room for some experimental films.
My thoughts on Fuji DR settings. If you only shoot jpeg, the DR settings (DR200 or DR400) can be a useful way to preserve your highlights. But the DR settings definitely do affect the raw files, as the DR settings basically underexpose the image in camera. So if you only shoot raw, I’d suggest you turn off DR (ie set to DR100), turn on the blinkies and protect your highlights in camera (using manual control or the exposure compensation dial). If you shoot both jpeg and raw, I still think it’s preferable to turn off DR and control your exposure in camera rather than using the DR settings. Others may disagree.
Yeah I would much rather an accurate preview of my final raw image than always shooting 2 stops under and guessing what I might have captured
Some day I will have a Leica but the compact size, built-in flash, ND filter and color recipes just make the X100VI such a great choice for how I'd use it. I really wish other companies understood the appeal of these cameras and gave us an option that was somewhere between $1500 and $6000 (and also actually available for purchase).
Also I'm sure someone else mentioned this but if you hold the EVF/OVF switch for a second it activates the ND filter so you can assign the custom button to something else.
I will soon have both cameras and I believe each has it's own use. The Q3 can be used for professional work, sometimes all on it's own. I did events only with it and it worked wonders. The fuji I will use mostly for street and casual travel. But so the Leica. Depends of what I feel like using :))
Tip, if you hold the EVF/OVF switch to the right for few seconds it enables and disables the ND out of the box. Easier to reach and you can use the other button for something else.
Great tip, I hadn’t noticed
Thks for tip on how to store the Q3.. I have been doing it wrong
Finally u r making videos about Leica❤️ Can u plz make youtube videos about film photography, cuz film isn’t dead and i would love to see that content from u 🎞️🎞️
Thanks so much! I’ve got all these notes about a film video but I just haven’t got around to it
I use DR400 on my X-T3 all the time. It's the "secret sauce" to perfect analog-looking images for me and the reason I wouldn't change to another camera brand. It seems that what the camera does under the hood is underexpose the shot when shooting and then adjust the gamma to push up the shadows and mids while avoiding clipping the highlights. This gives a highlights roll-off you only find on analog film.
DR modes in Fuji cameras just mean that the camera is underexposing and then increasing brightness to compensate for the darker image. It‘s convenient because you see the correctly exposed image on camera and your raw converter but you can bring back the clipped highlights. It‘s however exactly the same effect as underexposing manually and increasing exposure in the raw converter. In both cases the backside is increased noise.
Still enjoying my X-E2s
When you process the raw images from Fuji, try converting them through DxO RAW3, and then bringing them into Lightroom. A huge difference in image quality and sharpness. I wonder how those files are compared to Leica afterwards. (Hello from Asturias - Northern Spain)
Or capture one
DR400 does indeed underexpose the image. You would notice it when you do the opposite and lift the shadows. The DR400 shot would be more noisy
In an old video of his Cam Mackey said to use iso 640 on Fuji to get the most out of the dynamic range on dynamic range 400
Each body is rated for a different ISO so it depends who can version you’re using. The newer ones keep lowering the DR400 iso requirement
Hey - this is lovely. Not sure what you're shooting with but this video looks really crisp and the sound on the dials is a nice touch. I adore these cameras but starting with the first x100 and it's comic work-arounds... always sell them. The issue is A) your real camera is better and your iPhone is almost as good ... espeically if it's the fuji and B) you only really need to see one twee person wearing a Q or X100 as a necklace to question what's really going on here.
Our X100 spent many months in the door and I only started carrying it everywhere when it became my family photos camera
If only the Q3 came with a 50mm lens option. The 28mm is wide for what I like to shoot.
I would love to carry a wide and medium Q3 at all times
Tyler, I love the discussions you have with other professionals and your views on equipment. But we are all over-thinking this Fuji vs Leica thing. My “monkey mind” wants the latest & greatest gear available, And my creative side is just thankful for having any cool picture taking device with me all the time. For commercial work, I grab my bag of Sony gear. I know the bodies & lenses so well, I can use them blindfolded. For taking fun photos of friends, family & street scenes I keep experimenting, looking for the easiest to use and sharpest results. Recently, I found my “grail camera”. It's super-simple to use, fantastically sharp, and I didn’t have to sell a kidney to afford it. Bought a used Leica Q-P for under $2k and loving every minute that it’s in my hands. I don’t take it out in the rain, but I’ve never been this happy with a purchase. Ever… For my personal shots, I don’t need a Q3 with 60 megapixels, improved auto focus, tilt screen and a $6k+ price. I just want fun sharp photos. Bottom line - this camera makes me smile, and that makes me happy!
The Fuji is an ok camera with an average Pancake lens that can't resolve that resolution and you can't replace. The Leica Q is a 3 thousand dollar camera that you buy for 6 thousand dollars. And you can't change the lens.
Some people would say that the Q is a Leica M+28mm Summilux for half the price :)
Great review , but you didn’t mention the waxy skin tone on Fuji sensor.
one thing often gets lost in translation when reviewing Leica (Hasselblad, etc.) camera gear vs. traditional consumer/prosumer gear. i spend a lot of time in the audiophile community as well, and an important thing to learn quickly is: you are only the customer of a product when you can purchase it and not notice the difference in your bank account - regardless of if it costs $100, $1,000, or $10,000. The same is absolutely true here. If $6K for a fixed-lens camera sounds like anger-inducing absurdity, remember: you are not the customer. thanks for the comparison and sharing your thoughts! both of these cameras are beautiful. appreciate your insights.
That’s a good way to put it, I think that’s the source of anger towards a lot of expensive products. I know the price of a Neumann would be lost on me, but I’m still happy they exist
How is the autofocus between the two?
Similar, but a a hair more reliable on the Q3. But both are behind a Sony/Canon/Nikon
I only shoot DR 400% as well. Also with video I do the same. For example choosing a flat colour profile like eterna in video with DR 400% will give you the same DR as shooting in Flog. Don’t know the actual science behind it, it feels like the camera is under exposing as you mentioned but at the same time I don’t see any trade off in performance. Just I have to shoot at a higher ISO which I am totally chill with
Yeah this is why I’d like some clarification from Fuji, DR400 seems like the obvious superior way to shoot but it’s treated like there’s a trade off in quality, but I don’t see it
@@stalman The trade off is that you have to shoot at a higher iso - obviously the noise difference between 125 and 500 isn't huge but it is still there
Came to learn about cameras I don’t need, left changing all my default settings DR400
I have a Q2 and was shocked how solid/high quality the X100VI feels. It’s no Leica …. But I borrowed a X100V and it felt like a toy. No idea why.
DR400 Answered. As I understand it DR 200 and DR 400 Basically Take multiple photos. The reason the ISO needs up is because it is taking the shadows from those exposures and highlights from a lower ISO. You do lose a little bit of detail at DR 400. However most never see it. Doing it all in the background in real time makes it hard to wrap my head around. Now if they could just make clarity work with out having to wait for the black out.
That clarity loading is the worst part of Fuji cameras. I'll never use clarity adjustment because of that fking loading lol
@@f.iph7291 Right Might as well shoot raw and use a preset. LOL
@@fuelediowa god forbid a customer to see that loading and thinks your gear is antique and slow lol
You should look at the kingston canvas react sd cards! Great cards for a great price!
I'm not a big JPEG fan either, but with the X100VI you can now shoot HEIF. I'd be interested in what you think about using that format. The Leica looks amazing but, yeah, price (a "bargain" in Leica terms though). At least you can get it delivered next day for list price, unlike the X100 (V or VI) 😃
I don’t know, it took months track down a Q3 until my wife magically found one in a random Leica Store. If you want either, get on the waiting list now 😅
Don’t do that mistake it will raise the contrast and you will loose so much details in the photo. I used to shoot only in HEIF when I first recieved the VI and was windering what’s happening to my images, they were so different from the LCD.
Why a V60 card for Fuji when it's UHS-I ?
Hoping we get that answer, because I had the same question and am looking to gram some cards for my VI.
@@jacquesgude the only benefit is the downloading of the images to a computer is much faster if you have a compatible reader.
coming to visit this month. we can meet up and shoot some pics
I thought @pal2tech explains the behavior fir DR 100,200,400 in his video „Fujifilm Dynamic Range Settings“ quite well.
Thanks for mentioning him, I have watched them before and might need to go back. No other camera brands work this way
Yes, he's very good with Fuji. He has a separate video on the dynamic range priority setting as well.
even the leica q and q2 you can buy a few ricohs and fujis. i wish leica would offer a more entry level priced camera for those who want to experience their system but can't easily shell out 6k to 8k just to get into it. Heck where I live its hard to even find an option to rent for a day to even test it out. I get it their a higher end but it be nice if I could experience the glass.
On the X100VI you just need to use the top wheels one time to put it in T mode, then put the iso on the small front wheel dial and shutter speed on the back wheel dial.
Still good to share the Fuji xt-30 or a Fuji x-pro 2 or 3 with a fuji pancake lens 18 ot 27mm (nice) or even better a voigtlander 23 nokton manual 1.2 (epic) gets you a very solid combo as well
Very true, I’m always thinking about getting a used X-Pro
An excellent review. I have both cameras and can't disagree with the comments. The x100vi is definitely sharper than the x100v and ive been very impressed with the outputs by comparison. The ND filter and the portability are massive positives in favour of the Fuji. Given the expense of the Q3 it also means that there are occasions where the x100vi feels the safer option and offers a more discrete shooting experience. For example, as a holiday / travel camera in particular it has advantages and it's easier to take on the work commute. The Q3 is by far the better camera and the build quality is much better - whilst the Fuji fits into the pocket it also feels a lot more flimsy and plastic compared to the Q3. The two cameras have personality and both are fun to use. I shoot with the Fuji in much the same way as a Leica range finder with reliance on manual / zone focusing and hence whilst i can't comment on the autofocus capabilities of the x100vi i certainly can't fault the manual focusing. All in all the x100vi is good value and a distinct upgrade on the x100v. I am privileged to own both the Q3 and the x100vi. The former is the 'better' camera but the x100vi certainly has its advantages.
Having used both to photograph a gig last night the Q3 wins hands down in low light. Ultimately you pay for the better lens.
The X100V has the same lens as the X100VI. It’s also been demonstrated that the lens isn’t capable of taking full advantage of the 40mp sensor.
Yeah a deal breaker for me
DR 200 and 400 is the camera underexposing the file, and then bumping the exposure back up to the exposure you chose. This is how Fuji themselves have explained it: "To access these 200% and 400% settings, you’ll need to be using an ISO sensitivity at least one stop or two stops higher than the base ISO, respectively (eg if your camera’s lowest ISO is ISO 160, you’ll need to set ISO 640 to use a dynamic range of 400%). You’ll notice there is also an AUTO setting - this chooses either 100% or 200% depending on the conditions. On FUJIFILM cameras, Dynamic Range works by first deliberately underexposing the image to protect highlight detail, then boosting shadow brightness when the sensor data is converted in a JPEG file by the image processor. Dynamic Range is also one of the bracketing options available in the SHOOTING SETTING > DRIVE SETTING menu. If you’re not sure how much to apply, this is a great way of covering all the bases. Also available on selected X Series cameras is D Range Priority. This uses the Dynamic Range settings described above in conjunction with the camera’s Highlights and Shadows settings to really pull back detail in problem areas."
Cool! Where is that Fuji info from? I would love a deeper dive
Tried linking it but I think my comment is getting squished since it has a link. Google: "fuji Boost Dynamic Range in Your Images" and it's the first result. @@stalman Do you use this option as well on GFX? Been curious if it works the same way and has the same boost to GFX jpegs.
I've tried to reply with the link but it won't let me for some reason. If you search for FUJI DYNAMIC RANGE BOOST on google, should be the first result. I pasted all they had to say on it. Does your GFX gear have this same DR400 setting, and if so, do you use it? Always been curious about that.
As someone who jumped from a x100v (not vi) to a Q3, I can say with confidence that the Fuji x100v line and the Leica Q line are perfect examples of the Pareto principle. You can achieve 80% with the Fuji, but for the remaining 20% you have to go into the (expensive) Leica rabbit hole. One additional point, which is often missed in such comparisons: there is nearly no 3rd Party aftermarket for Leica. You want a 2nd battery? Grab an official one for 170 €…
We all know Leica is quite clearly always going to be superior. Leica users know it. Fuji users just say fuji is better purely to wind up the leica users. I also didn't use the word 'Better' as that's not always the case. But Leica is certainly superior and looking at the stats and most importantly the images there really isn't much room for debate although I am happy to hear some counter ideas. Also... I have Fuji and Leica and Love them both and use them both equally. Plus.... Fuji are changing the game right now and Leica being a bit too cool for school about it all! Great Video Tyler!
I had a Leica CL with 4 senses and a X100V. I sold them and bought a Leica Q2.
Thank you, I keep the Q3