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Purchase links (may be updated as new products / better deals come along):
Right angle ratchet driver (no bits) - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dnp...
Right angle ratchet driver set with bits - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Deh...
Precision hex driver set (Wiha, very good quality) - amzn.to/49TnwXv
Fujiya precision side cutters - amzn.to/46LILbj
Paint markers (chunky) - amzn.to/3uoqjHZ
Paint markers (small precision tip) - amzn.to/3ST0jij
Deburring tool - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCP...
"Universal" bolt removal wrench thing (closest I've found) - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEg...
Screw removal pliers - amzn.to/47SM8hv
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3D Printing Quick Start Guide - www.makersmuse.com/fdm-fff-3d...
3D Printer Buyers Guide - www.makersmuse.com/purchasing...
TIMESTAMPS:
0:00 Intro
0:50 Mini ratcheting 90deg screwdriver
1:50 Hex drivers
2:20 Precision side cutters (good ones!)
3:39 Paint markers
4:37 Deburring tool
5:34 Fastener removal tools (destructive)
That wrench: Usually called a self-adjusting or power-grip wrench. They're a specialization of a plumber's pipe wrench. They aren't meant to be destructive, but they can be.
Remind me of my oil filter removal wrench.
in Aus they are usualy called a basin wrench and often have a 90degree turn on the end.
@@T-MANONE Yep, I know it as a basin wrench as well.
I think he calls them destructive because they do leave bitemarks.
@@EXG21 Yeah. I use a rubber strap wrench for things like that (mostly for removing stuck photographic adapters on the telescope). There are also ones with chains, and then dedicated ones that look like this and have more segments.
Since we're on the topic, Knipex pliers wrench. Flat jawed and parallel like a crescent wrench but with a pivoted slip joint mechanism that make them much easier to use than a crescent wrench, and actually let you grip bolts, and other things, to maneuver them into places where you can't get your fingers.
My 6" Knipex pliers wrench is probably my most favorite tool.
Knipex cobra's are also the best water pump pliers too, the jaws are hardened very well and really bite into metals. I think basically anything knipex if it comes to pliers!
The tool with the pivoting jaw falls under the category of pipe wrench, and the deburring tool is definitely great for smoothing out the sharp edges of sheet metal or drilled holes plus 3d print edges😊
I've used an actial large pipe wrench for this exact purpose many times. Ha ha. Use what you have.
@@EXG21 Yeah... me too.
6:02 As a mechanic, those look like a pipe wrench version of "Parrot Nose Pliers". I would say the Parrot Nose is more referring to the geometry of the two flanges of the tool, and how their geometry interacts with the fastener. I used them all the time for alignments when adjusting old rusty linkage.
My rarely mentioned tool and most favourite is the tiny gas torch used by chefs / for cooking. I love that thing. Do you have whiskers on your print? Blast it, for 0.5 sec and gone. I keep finding ways to use it. I use it to pop bubbles on my resin after pouring it into the vat on the resin printer. I use it to heat up razors / knives to cut plastic. All kinds of uses. I even used it to heat up wire and merge functional 3D prints by sinking said wire into the 2 pieces. It is a really good tool for tinkerers :)
Invaluable for resin work, and leveling malleable material before it sets.
When removing 3D printed parts from the bed, sometimes you get that white haze (I find it happens often with matte PLA). Quick blast with a blowtorch and it's gone.
@@echoecho540 Like I said - it has many uses :D I love the damn thing. It is dirt cheap and soooooo useful!
One tool that I started using quite frequently now is a miniature plane, in particular, the Veritas Miniature Low Angle Block Plane 504079 05P82.20. Really handy for cleaning up the edges of a print that is a smidgeon too wide or simply to clean or true up an edge.
I love my deburring tool, I can't believe I never had one until relatively recently... having said that... you absolutely can take a finger out with one, I'm still healing up from a slip a week or so ago...
For the deburring tool don't push away from the body. Use it like a potato peeler in which you put your thumb on the printed part and pull towards. Power AND control. You won't overshoot and cut deep into your part, nor will you slice anything else!
that was something i noticed too
Try and do that with your left hand like he does and get back to me... They do make left handed blades though, but come at some extra expense.
@@Segphalt Being outside the norm is commonly more expensive. Just get used to using your right hand. Most people use their non-dominant hand for all manner of tasks, this would not be a difficult exception.
@@SegphaltYou've got the solution in your own comment - the blades are so cheap to begin with that upgrading to the left handed version still shouldn't cost much in absolute terms
Wait you're supposed to move the potato, not the peeler?
Instead of the bolt removal tool, I would recommend the knipex Cobra. They also self tighten on bolts and shafts, but also work as normal pliers.
or a set of 1/4 inch sockets... it'll have a ratchet, driver and maybe even all your allen sizes..,
Yeah, Knipex is the good stuff, i recommend it.
one I've recently been using is cabinet scrapers (a flat piece of spring steel) after a recommendation by another 3d printing channel. Really useful for smoothing prints.
Hi! Just found your channel for the first time and would like to compliment you for the quality of your videos. You come across as a very nice guy. Friendly and no weird attitude like so many you tubers. Pleasant to watch with a smile and no vulgar language. Thank you for all that. Hope your channel flourishes. A new subscriber. Merry Christmas!
if you are using a knife to deburr your prints, it is not a matter of if you have a medical emergency, but when. a deburring tool is a must have.
100%! However I've seen some brutal damage done to between the 1st finger and thumb because the person thought his hands were stronger than a vice to hold the part as he was deburring several holes on a metal block. Poor guy almost lost his thumb but I never seen him holding a part after that 😮. Like any tool or piece of equipment, if you're not trained properly, an accident WILL happen!
Tip with the deburring tool. Rather pull towards you as you have more control with the muscles being used and will end up with a neater result.
I cant believe Angus is talking important tools and not once mention anything that keeps his hair at the level beyond any other KZheadr!
Thanks, that wrench seems like it'll be a life saver!
I call them a parrot jaw pipe wrench. There are parrot jaw pliers also
Especially Angus should have known that, given his 🦜experience..Knipex calls them Raptor Pliers, which I find also fitting.
Instead of hex drivers, I bought a small set of long hex bits and a quality stubby ratcheting screwdriver. Printed a small caddy for them. Saves space while having all the hex sizes quickly available. If they wear out, I only have to replace a small part of the tool.
I think it's so funny I ended up subscribed to this channel because of some birds & have seen & been recommended so many things I didn't know existed since
I prefer T-handle hex wrenches to hex drivers; I can put a little more torque into them, and when my carpal tunnel flares up I have trouble holding normal drivers. (Also, ball-head wrenches for the win!) I haven't been able to find any of my flush cutters since I moved! 😫 Oooh, I need some fastener-removing tools. 🤔
I love my t handle hex set as well! Definitely preferable for larger jobs but I find them a bit unwieldy for anything below M4.
you can get or print an add on T handle for a good set of allen keys. lets my wera hex keys do double duty.
With hex wrenches (as with most tools) it’s not really a case of one style replacing all the others. Different sizes and handle styles suit different jobs, or even just different moods. Long, short, ball, 100 degree, stubby, P handle, T handle, screwdriver handle, no handle, 1/4 hex bits, metric, imperial, etc., etc. I think I’ve over 20 sets now. 😮
I am a big fan of 3d printed sanding tools. Also a ceramic tile for flat sanding. Good to have a split rod for sanding and honing holes with small cordless drill
Thanks Angus! Some really good advice there! I have some of those. Now going to finally buy a de-burring tool!! I haven't watched in a while. Glad to see you looking happy and healthy!!~~ alive and still at it :)
I've had the Fujiya screw removal pliers for years. The knurling on the jaws is really sharp and has remained that way after a lot of use, they grip incredibly well.
For flush cuts get some made by Tsunoda. These are made and used in Japan by the model enthusiasts. I use model SNP-165F and PW-305 and they are SHARP and precise. I use them al the time to cut brims, mouse ears, supports, and 3d prints themselves because they actually cut the print instead of crushing it.
I found this video very useful. I enjoy nice useful tools that can help make my life easier in the shop.
I had half of the tools you recommended and knew how handy they are so i went for the other half. Its black friday week after all. Crossing my fingers in hope they do fill an unknown gap. The right tool can cut a job in half easily.
@Maker’s Muse Probably lost in the comments by now but your mystery tool, often called a plumbers wrench, crowfoot wrench or parrot nose wrench, is called “Adjusting tie rod wrench”. It’s a car tool, and not meant to be destructive, it’s just not built for nuts or bolts. Anyway, love ya!
Speaking from experience, not all Allen keys are created equal. I've thrown out cheap ones, but I swear by the quality ones. They're incredibly durable. I even broke a decent ratcheting wrench on a tough hex screw, but my Allen key? Extended with a pipe and it didn’t even slightly bend.
I bought a set of these unnamed wrences at a similar show-thing here in Sweden 20 years ago when i was like 14 years old. That was a lot pf money for me back then, but they still serve me well. They are not used often, but they can really save the day!
you proper Frankensteined that pumpkin up lol
Crescent has a similar wrench to the last one CPW12 "12" Self-Adjusting Dual Material Pipe Wrench"
Engineering Pliers are a great option because they're the company who makes the Vampliers tools. They are smaller sized pliers that are great for 3D and they also have a smaller version of the fastener removal pliers. Engineer is the actual name. Greatest find for me.
yes, Vamplier and Engineer makes a ton of great screw extraction pliers, and recently Knipex makes a similar extractor with their Twin Grips. These are becoming more common because they work great!
Honestly the wrenches you show look like a version of a pipe wrench. Maybe a bit more convenient but it works under the same principle as a pipe wrench.
Love your videos and your haircut looks great.
Gripper tool Looks like the "The Renovator: Better Grip 4 Piece Wrench Set, was at Costco for a while and a late night TV ad special..... Good to hear they work, never thought they were a good buy....
Vampliers also have that same profile for grabbing screw heads from above, they work pretty well for me and have a very comfortable grip.
This is amazing, thank you so much!
Sometimes you don't have bolts that are short enough for your project, so I've bought myself a small bolt cutter to deal with this issue. It's much faster and quieter to cut extra length off with it than use something like angle grinder or hacksaw. Besides, there is no small residue or dust. And it's much more comfortable to use it for this than pliers. It's not particularly beautiful, but can come in handy when you're prototyping and don't have necessary bolt right now. You can always buy it later.
not ratchetting wire crimpers have threaded bolt cutters for most machine screw sizes. No need to worry about rough threads at the tips and flared ends that you get from bolt cutters.
@@ryanokeefe12 That style however are fecal crimpers so I use them only for cutting screws. Good crimpers correct for sleeved and bare connectors make wiring much more pleasant.
@@Comm0ut I'm the same.. there are some well built ones but they still aren't ideal for crimping as they still rely on the leverage of the handle (no gear/ratchet). It's awesome to be able to thread the screw in to the perfect length and make the cut. I did some quick googling and it looks like stanley made a large sized imperial threaded cutter a while back, but no one recently. shame.
I have Lindstrom cutters that I was issues with when I worked for Telecom in 1976 and they are still as good as new.
That voron-head nail (bolt? rivet? screw?) is cool
Nice Ideas for Christmas gifts.
I love my debur tool, but I also use leather bevel tools as well. They work great on removing skirts.
My latest addition has been the CNC Kitchen heat sink insert tip for TS-100 style soldering irons.
Knipex TwinGrips for screw removal pliers. They have a slip joint aspect which keeps jaws parallel when grabbing larger fasteners.
6:00 The wrench is called the renovator better grip. Up there with the transforma ladder. (I, too, watched a lot of infommercials on 7)
The main advantage I see for the 90 deg ratchet is the big increase in torque (same force with a longer lever = more torque, more rotational oomph), which means I either get that stubborn screw out or I strip the head. Usually the latter. 😅 My coworkers swear by T-handle hex drivers, and I don't blame them, they need to put a lot of torque either way on metric bolts. When I don't need the additional torque, my go-to is the iFixit Mako driver set. The handle has a bearing in its base, meaning I can spin out a long bolt way faster than a ratchet if I hold it just right. Tsunoda makes cutters designed for plastics, like nylon zip ties, and they are amazing for flush cutting zip ties, cutting 3D printer filament, and cutting fingernails. I figure, keratin is an organic polymer, right? But I've also used Hakko micro cutters with no problems at all. The cutters that came with the Markforged Onyx Ones we got last year? Dead after a year, and the jaw BROKE OFF. Because I might do a ton of crimped connectors as part of my job, I'm a huge fan of auto strippers. Same length of wire exposed every time, meaning I don't have to think about how many millimeters to hold the wires while getting the jaws of a manual stripper lined up. I bet paint marker markings, when dry, don't come off with isopropyl alcohol the way bone-dry Sharpie will. There was one point where I used acrylic paint from the art supply store to make quick markings on terminals. I need to get a deburring tool, I've used an X-acto clone to do my deburring, and it's a small miracle that I still have both my eyeballs and all my fingers. Other tools that save my bacon on a regular basis: Pinecil, hot air rework station (cheapie Chinese one), and ferrule crimper.
I really like your robot content, id love to see more from you!
908S 80W soldering iron. Only $10 or so, and does everything from delicate SMD work to heavy gauge wires, and even hot glue and other plastic melting. Much more precise than a glue gun. Cut little bits of glue stick, place where you want, and then melt with the iron. Use dedicated tips for each material, of course. Hot glue comes off with alcohol, for those unaware. I use it most often for making wire strain reliefs.
Thank you for starting with the Allen keys, because now I know our opinions of good tools vary widely. I don't get why anyone prefers hex drivers to hex keys, and I love having the versatility for long reach or compact spaces. Yes, most are cheap, but I found I used them enough to try some metric Wera Hex keys, and loved their durability so much over the last 8 years (still like new aside from my initials on the butt end) that I just got some Imperial Wera keys for work this year.
My favorite addition has been a small heat gun. Way more useful than big normal heat guns.
All the tool’s mentioned here are the thing I already have
Tools* things*
Everyone needs to know about woodworking scrapers for smoothing 3d printed stuff
Some more tips from another maker: 1. Get a good quality ratchet bit wrench. The lower quality one has very coarse articulation, and it’s easy to accidentally change the direction. 2. Ball joint hex drivers. 3. Get a proper set of German or Japanese “Philips” screw driver. #0, #1, #2. I like Vessel, Wera, and Wiha. 4. If you deal with IKEA furniture, make sure you’re using Pozidrive! They’re different than normal Philips screws.
The wrench is known by a number of names "hook jaw", " self-adjusting", and "parrot" wrench. I have also seen a 90 degree extension wrench called a "basin wrench" with the same mechanism. A good pair of vise grips will do similar duty.
One tool I wish I'd had sooner is a sanding belt. Not a belt sander, just the belt. Get the kind without velcro backing. It's like everlasting super coarse sandpaper. Also a little handheld cordless vacuum cleaner to clean the dust off of it every 10-20 strokes.
those look like basin wrenches, similar to how pipe wrenches work too which are also insanely useful to have...every time i come across one at a flea market i buy them, especially the small ones
I have the knipex side cutters. wonderful and worth the price.
I would recommend upgrading your removal pliers to the knipex twingrip, the slipjoint makes a big difference to comfort. Oh and your mystery tool I've heard refered to as a single sided footprint its a variation of the footprint wrench. a mini pipe wrench will grip the same way all be it without the spring.
My dad had a bike(?) chain version of the mini pipe wrench thingy for big round objects. Even used it once or twice where I think no other tool could’ve worked, like when he had to loosen some big canister-shaped things for a Citroen’s suspension system.
As someone who actually spent a week getting the rust away from bolts on my truck (the ones in the bed so the fastener remover tools wouldn't have worked), I'm absolutely putting those on the list
A tool to add onto this list is an extractor bit (a tool meant to extract stripped screws). Especially with those grub screws on heatsinks an sch, this is a must. theyre pretty cheap too
Knipex Pliers Wrench are extremly useful having a parallel grip with a 7 times force multiplier is unique as grippers go.
carry 150mm pair with me everyday.
I've got a 5" pair to be TSA compliant.
If you want some good brand versions of the end-grip pliers, try Engineer pz-58 for a small pair, of Knipex twingrips for a larger pair.
Great video! Thanks
Just saw a short that featured a similar wrench, did a little looking and it's called a MASTERENCH. It was patented by the Heller Bros. in 1925.
I've found that a pipe wrench can work really well for removing stuck threaded shafts. I had to remove a tie-rod from my old Passat and it wouldn't budge and I ended up rounding off the flats with my wrench. I put a couple of big pipe wrenches on it and (after an hour of swearing) the tie-rod came right off. They're basically doing the same thing as those wrenches you showed in the video, except a pipe wrench is more adjustable, in my experience.
Ha, nice hair cut bud, looking good :) one tool I recommend is the Dewalt motion activated screwdriver, the clutch feature allows you to screw in aluminium M2 and M3 bolts without snapping them, best thing I have ever purchased for the makerspace, unfortunately the charger is US 120v only, but I modded mine to work here in Australia, and the LeBear long reach allen key set to use with the screw driver, these are colour coded so really easy to see what size is what at a fast glance.
I've thought about paint markers before but mainly for marking large prints which have to be cut down into smaller parts, i've seen someone on reddit say they use them on their 3d printer for marking the leveling wheels incase they lose their level while dusting/cleaning the printer, think of the line as like a torque marker on a wheel lug/stud, it makes sense. Deburring tool is a must have for sure. i think having multiple pliars is a good shout, i have fine needle nose pliars i use as well as some bent nose precision pliars, i have a vice grip i've used for holding my hotblock when doing a nozzle change. I went with a set of max power allan keys and torx keys that come with a handle, they are colour coded with a ball joint end, i'd rather have an electronic screwdriver for the hex capped bolts but its a cost i can live without and im happy with my colour coded allan keys.
Jonard seems to make some decent quality flush cutters as well. At least they haven't broken in the couple years I've been using them after my cheapo flush cutters shattered.
Posca pens work great to colour in prints also can be made very durable with a coat of clear nail polish have done it on severarprints of mine works a treat
ADDING hex drivers is always a good choice but as a mechanic, technician and (hobby) machinist and welder for decades I keep L-style keys, screwdriver style bits, T-handle bits and any variation that adds capability. A particularly useful feature of cheap L-style keys is they're handy for making custom tools for special situations. Makers often make to augment their main interests working on autos, bikes, machinery other than printers etc so more tools and greater variety pays off (literally if you repair your own car which alone saves more than the cost of a full printing outfit). If you're doing production deburring or just like your fingers cut-resistant gloves as use in kitchens and industry are worth owning. Shaviv and successors offer a wide variety of deburring blades cheap and with them in front of you their uses will be obvious. Great holiday gifts for auto and other mechanics too as most outside machining aren't aware of them. Holding an item to be deburred against your workbench top is often more precise than freehanding. Paint and other marker tip: Sharpie style markers are widely used by machinists as the most convenient layout die for small areas which are most common. If your paint or ink doesn't flake you can scribe lines precisely on that background, ideal for making or adjusting many things. Those little wrenches are obviously wonderful so I'll add some to my box. If you can find a similar sized version with a hinged head similar to a (image search this: "spring loaded basin wrench") I promise you want one because I do and have been wrenching since the 1970s. Spring-loaded toothed jaw wrenches have been around many years. Larger ones are terrific for plumbing because of their low bulk. Owning more than one (as with any tool of the type) lets you hold a fitting or fastener with one while turning with the other, and permits gripping the pair like scissor handles. Larger sizes are available as "spring loaded auto adjusting crows foot" wrenches you can turn with a ratchet.
lots of names for those, seems like the most common is self-adjusting pipe wrench
I keep white and black paint markers around to fill in debossed text on my 3D printed parts. I dab it over the text to fill in the lines, then wipe the paint off the surface with a paper towel dampened with rubbing alcohol.
As a mechanic I used to use liguid paper pens instead of markers. They are basically paint pens but with a very fine point, which also will paint over any surface and don’t tend to dry out. Deburring tools are great and so much safer. The one you show is more specifically for inside pipe edges. The direction can make a difference. That universal pipe wrench set was sold at Bunnings for a very short time (isle hanger sales). Too short, because I didnt get to buy a set. I remember them being sold on infomercials long ago. Very handy tool.
White out pens are excellent for marking surfaces, I use them to mark suspension bolts to ensure they don't loosen
Liquid paper pens _can_ have a fine point and, thus, draw/write fine lines... _but_ they don't do so reliably over the life of the ink; they can lay down a line several to _many_ times wider than the tip itself. Seemingly at random. Disappointing, and wasteful. Paint pens are consistent in terms of line width, IME.
@@michaelthibault7930 That's true, and it can depend on the brand. I've had much better results getting fine marks with Pentel white out pens, they have more fine control and less runny fluid than Bic white out. One other disadvantage I've found is that they only work reliably when pointing down. Most of the time I can work around it, but not in all situations
A good apex set has the security bits in it.
I don't think there's one standard name for that wrench. I've seen so many names used over the years: auto wrench, magic wrench, quick wrench, self-adjusting wrench, self-locking wrench, snap wrench, speed wrench... take your pick! The problem is that there's a lot of cross-over in tool naming so a lot of tools carrying one of those names often look like something you'd call a monkey wrench or a pipe wrench.
It's a VERY old design dating to at least the late 1800s so no surprise there.
You need a pressure sensitive hammer drive with a apex set.
Thank you so much!
if you have to cut piano wire from time to time… fully recommend the Knipex diagonal cutter, I’m a piano tech and it’s the first off the store shelf dikes that will cut piano wire.
Id add pipe cutter to the list. The ones with a little pizza wheel inside that you roll around pipe to get a nice square cut.
these are cool tools
Those unnamed tools at the end are pretty similar to the "auto adjusting ratchet wrenches" I bought on Amazon. It came without a shaft, but they were like $30 for two
I recently bought a deburring tool and it's sooooo much better and safer than using a knife. I got the common ALFA branded one and it's the best inexpensive tool purchase I've made in years.
Here's another really useful one that every body has. The scraper that comes with your 3d printer can be used like a edger/deburring tool. If you notice, on the sides of the scraper, it has one side that will "catch" your fingers, and it's that side that you can use to remove material, especially on long straight edges.
The 3 tools I have to recommend for general purpose are An iSesamo pry tool. Get the actual isesamo not the knock off. With the isesamo though you need to sharpen it and then knock off the edge. The cheap ones dont sharpen and hold the dull edge and they permanently bend to easily. Seriously though this is my number one tool, you dont realize how much you needed this till you had it. Leatherman multitool like a wave or one of the classic models, believe an actual leatherman is far far better than cheap ones I just keep it on my desk at all times. The Last one I use all the time is a Nanch precision long shank screwdriver kit. They have a 22 in 1 kit that I have bought twice. One for work and one for home. Yes there are lots of precision screwdriver kits out there but the nanch kit can't be beat for the price and the fact its long shank. Plus the quality is insane for the price. Beats the hell out of my ifixit kit. Okay 2 more: The other tools I use constantly are a good pen light like a streamlight or the nebo inspector, good curved tweezers and good like human tweezer? I dont know what to call them but the ones you would use for like plucking hairs or splinters. It wasn't until I was in my mid 20s that I realized with tools 9/10 you just have to buy the name brand. Cheap multitools suck, cheap tweezers really suck, cheap pens lights suck, and the knock off isesamo is just garbage. The Nanch kit is like the only thing that isn't a common name brand in its field but its good. Dammit, one last thing. A good rotary tool, like a dremel or a flexshaft grinder. I forgot about my dremel because its not on my desk, its in my bathroom...
The original one to my understanding is the Aston Super Wrench, which I got a set of 4 about 22ish years ago off of a shopping channel commercial lol
Paint markers can also be used to make it easier to separate 3d models from big support structures. Set the spacing between support and the model to 0.1 mm or even lower and add a Gcode pause when the printer would start printing over the support. Paint all the top layer of the support with the marker and resume the print. You will get a very smooth finish of your supported layer and it will still hold it just enough to stick to it during the rest of the printjob! Just remember to choose a color for your paint marker that comes as close as possible to your model, you will get some of it in your first layer 🙃
Don't need paint markers for that technique. I even set it to 0 spacing, solid top layer, paint over it with sharpie. Then afterwards, it comes off with nearly no force, remove any transferred ink with isopropyl.
Instead of that first ratcheting driver I use a small ratcheting spanner with a bit in it. Much smaller head and much finer ratchet.
The deburring tool, yez!
As far as flush cuts for electronics work. Find a good set of electronics pliers. It's a common variety with short needle nose pliers, a smooth jaw pliers, and a flush cutter. The smooth jaw pliers are really nice for bending metal wire.
The Renovater Better Grip is very similar to the destructive wrench.
I have a giant one of those wrenches, it’s labeled a Master Wrench
"off to the emergency department." 🤣 I have an Amazon subscription for band-aids and for deeper wounds I have this tape that you wrap around the Kleenex that you wrap around your finger to suck up the blood. I am NOT joking.
I didn't even know my big headed plier is for removing fasteners. It grabs onto things so well I use it to put on tight IKEA sofa covers.
Klein tools wire strippers are kino 👌
I have to say Allen keys still have their purspose. Try tightening the bolts on some monitor arms for example with a straight on driver, you just don't have the leverage to tighten the bolts sufficiently which results in a saggy monitor.
Those "fastener removal tools" are called parrot nose wrenches. U can get them as pliers too. Ive never seen the kind u have but i have a set of the standard pliers version.
Harbor freight has a new pliers that look similar to the one you mentioned for removing screws. The also have a parrot head plyer which is similar to the one you mentioned.
There’s nothing wrong with Allen keys with good technique. Get a nice set of long ones with a ball end. You have a lot of leverage to break free tight bolts. When the bolts loose you can use the ball end, wrap your hand around the long bit and put your thumb in the end of the short end then spin it with your thumb. Way faster than twisting a driver
I have a tool very simlar to the "unknown name" device of your's. The main difference with the one that I have is that rather than having ridges like yours, they are flat edges, and the tool is designed to remove nuts of either metric or imperial sizes and not have to have two sets of wrenches. I keep it in my car's tool box as it provided a way to remove nuts & bolts that you don't have the space to get a socket onto, and not have to keep a large set of wrenches in your car all the time. Although I got mine at Canadian Tire, Canada's largest store for tools & camping & sports & hardware & automotive parts (yes, they sell tires too!), it seems that they were probably manufactured by Stanley, and I saw the exact same thing but branded Stanley, and it's full name and model is: Stanley Dynagrip Ratcheting Adjustable Wrench 17-24mm, STA487990.
I've had a set of 'cheap' (I don't recommend that variety) box end style wrenches with that cam head th clamp a bolt head in place. I would imagine a good set of made with a better alloy would replace a double set of box end wrenches for a lot of people. Won't help with open end wrenches though, although what you describe likely would cover that set too. The problems with the set I had were both that the material was too maliable for a good wrench, and the pivot pin for the cam extended past the surface of the box end. You're already losing depth to attach the cam to the moving jaw, having the pivot pin add an extra 2-4 mm can make the tool useless for some jobs. But hey, I have yet to find someone who hasn't bought cheep tools for that one job, that when used, made the decision to never use those tools again, and if it became an option, melt it down for slag rather than let some other poor sob go through that experience with them.
I've seen those wrenches marketed with the brand "SuperWrench"