SWA Cable Gland: Earthing Nut vs Conventional Banjo and Lock Nut for cable glands.
In this video, we look at the conventional SWA gland with a lock nut and earthing ring (banjo). Plus an Earthingnut in combination with SWA cable glands and steel wire armoured cable. We put them head to head to see which one is easier and fast to install.
Armoured cable is one of the most commonly used cables in UK electrical installations. Use of SWA cable is increasing in applications such as EV ChargePoint installation.
The steel armour needs to be connected to CPC (earth) connection at usually each end of the cable. A cable gland is a common method of doing this. The Earthing nut replaces the nut and banjo supplied with CW or BW cable glands. The earthing nut creates a neater looking armoured cable termination and a more reliable earth connection.
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Earthingnut complete with SWA cable gland
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Please see our other videos related to SWA cable and innovations.
For more electrical content please check out our
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How is an armoured cable made - from copper and plastic to finished cable.
kzhead.info/sun/Y7F_nK6ygZSVhKM/bejne.html
Innovations for installing and terminating armoured cable
kzhead.info/sun/Z7iLhb2noXqjqmw/bejne.html
Earthingnuts are manufactured under license by Specialised Wiring Accessories sometimes branded as Piranha nuts.
#eFIXX
***MORE*** - Find out how SWA Armoured cable is made in this factory visit. kzhead.info/sun/Y7F_nK6ygZSVhKM/bejne.html Reviewed: Innovations for armoured cable kzhead.info/sun/Z7iLhb2noXqjqmw/bejne.html
I feel your point about removing the paint from the enclosure is not necessary. The armour is connected electrically via the gland. The gland via the banjo. The banjo via the fly lead to the earth terminal. The earth terminal is normally connected by the manufacturer to the metal casing. I feel you are making a mountain out of a molehill.
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Worked on a petrochemical plant one time and the electrical engineer insisted on spanners for swa glands as he hated damaged brass , nice to see this included in your video for young learner's
Hi. Thanks for the positive feedback 👍
@ always use correct size of apostrophes...
I love the competitive element between Gaz and Joe 👍.... go Gaz go 👍
Joe's pretty good also! 😊 Thanks for the comment!
More videos like this please. Extremely helpful👍
Hi thanks for the positive feedback Gaz
I always use these on swa where necessary. Pricey though. Great for taking a swa cable from metal clad sfcu where space is limited. Great video guys. Love the new channel.
Hi. Thanks for the support on our new adventure eFIXX Gaz 👍😁
We have been using earthing nuts for a little while now. They save time and money and we feel they do a better job. Great content as usual 👍
Thanks 👍
Classic time vs materials cost compromise. Great video.
If you give the actual earth nut a turn when it's almost done up with the spanner you have a much better chance of it cutting through the paint and making better contact with the metal of the enclosure.
I've never done it this way. I keep the swa tag on the inside of the enclosure, bent up the tag a little and used a nut and bolt to clamp the earth ring crimp to the tag. Never had any issues with R2 readings this way.
That's exactly what I was thinking of doing bending the tag up , that's before I saw the earth nuts , I've never done this before and have just ordered the glands , and looking at the price of the nuts , I think I'll bend the tag up
Exactly what I do, keep it all inside, ive used these nuts too but on some small enclosures they are too chunky especially side by side on a switch.
That's a good idea. I hope it catches on.
We use earth nuts with plastic adaptable boxes/enclosures because of the creeping factor.
I like using both 👍
Thanks for the support on eFIXX Gaz 👍
Great idea. Expensive idea. 5 quid for 2 for an extra ~3 minutes. Time to do some calculations.
Could argue it's easier as well as quicker? 🤔
@@efixx Yup. Quicker. Easier. Expensiver.
Great job but would have liked to see it done with SWA cable attached. Cant understand how your suppose to hold the locking nut on the inside while rotating the fitting on the outside, if its a terminated cable. Thanks great help.
Got nothing to say about this guy’s 👍 Great video guy’s as always 👍👍👍👍❤️⚡️
I was always taught to use the adjustable spanner the "other way around" this was known as "the CORRECT away"
nice video gaz, would you agree by saying the fly lead earth should be 1/2 the size of the cable e.g 6mm swa 4mm fly lead as 2.5mm would be more than half the cables size?
Much better too for external use as the traditional nut is iron and rusts.
What determines the size of the earth fly lead between banjo and earth terminal?
why not attach the flylead before tightening the gland? It seems odd to put the screw in to stop the banjo spinning, then taking it out, then putting it in again with the fly lead.
What size cable should the fly lead be, assuming a 2.5mm2 SWA and an 63amp RCD?
Good product but looking on Screwfix website they cost nearly double what a gland pack (20mm cw) cost. Would soon add up.
It's a grind! My sparky arrives in his Ferrari!
Love that idea. Another great and clear video. If a current old SWA cable in an garage only has two cores ( Live and Neutral) and uses the armour as the earth would you need to install an additional earth rod incase the armour ever suffered corrosion or a s the armour deemed satisfactory?
The armour is deemed sufficient to be used as the CPC
Another interesting video fuelling the debate on which connection type is better. Most people like the new piranha nuts but they cost more. There has long been debate about fitting banjo tags. You fitted yours on the outside but many fit them inside to reduce corrosion and improve the cleanness outside. You can buy pre-terminated banjos with flyleads on to reduce the fitting time. If you fit them inside and the case has a cpc bar earthing the cabinet already as yours did then should you drill the case for the banjo or just connect it to the cpc bar as you would with a piranha nut? If you drill the case it takes time and corrosion follows. Same on a plastic case, is there a need to drill the small hole for the banjo as its not earthing the case? You views welcome on best practice.
Great points as always Neill. Gaz 👍
How about a complete install with swa in situ like ya would do to make a connection
If you use a tap to cut a thread into the metal enclosure and then use the bolt would you still need the fly lead
What is the make and model of the bush/locknut spanner you use in this video? My colleague has one but it’s open ended and has very thick metal rendering it almost useless for glands. Cheers
Did you ever find the spanner in this video please?
Learner here, what should be the size of or where can I look in the regs for the size of the fly lead please?
shouldnt the thread of the m4 and the nut be on the outside of the enclosure?
Seen alot of people using serated washers instead of banjo's. They bite into the consumer unit or panels which are earthed. Whats peoples thoughts on this? Should a flying lead always be used?
Thanks for the comment, always useful to hear different ideas!
@@efixx No problem, really enjoy watching the uploads and i also like your other channel GSH.
@efixx is that a bush spanner that’s been adapted to work with lock rings or is it bought like that?
Did you ever find the spanner in this video please?
@@trajo189 no you can’t get them anymore unfortunately
Where would I go about getting one of these lock but spanners? First time I’ve ever seen one
Best bet would be to call your local wholesaler, they should be able to sort you out with one. Thanks for asking!
What is a lock but spanner.??
Did you ever find the spanner in this video please?
Locknut King Don’t think they’re made anymore. I got one from eBay.
What if you was entering it from the top knockout how could it be earthed from inside without drilling a hole on top for the earthing?
Never seen anyone make such a hash of putting a banjo on. 😂
I am aware this was a demonstration of nut V Banjo, but I would still have thought the Banjo would be better INSIDE the box. I do a lot of caravan hook-ups and insist the Earthing tags/banjos are all on the inside of the IP44 box, to cut corrosion, They very quickly go Black if on the outside. And don't start me off regarding the use of steel nuts and bolts, I have replaced no end with Brass.
What do you use for the lugs? Are the tin-plated copper ones preferable over the red/blue/yellow stuff?
@@JohnSmith-ws7fq I will not use anything ferrous on the outside of the box, and am particular on what I use on the inside, due to corrosion. Many times I have had to grind through rusted nuts on the outside. And replace brass banjos fitted on the outside, as they go Black. Quite often, people have used the SWA shield for the Earth. Which is OK in principle, but if they use steel fixings, the resistance soon goes beyond the standard to protect life, should a fault occur. Am I wrong to look to the future.?
@@JohnSmith-ws7fq As for lugs, I only use tinned copper.
@@G1ZQCArtwork Thanks, good points.
I see no point in drilling a hole through a plastic IP66 rated enclosure due to the banjo being fitted on the outside of the box. Like others, I bend the banjo and fit it inside the box. Less holes in the box = less chance of water ingress!
Why are manufactures leads of the breakers got so much copper showing
Whats the name of that lock nut spanner or where do you get one?
I’ve never seen the nut spanner before? Is there any particular name for it so I can search for one?
Did you ever find the spanner in this video please?
Can these be used on SY glands also?
J.W. says not required on metal units but his video is from a few years ago. Is this a reg change?
Depends if you are using the armour as the CPC conductor
@@efixx Is using the armour as a CPC optional?
So if you’re running between two plastic enclosure consumer units,does that mean the earth rings/nuts are redundant?
No you still need to connect the metal armour to the CPC.
The armour is an exposed conductive part which could become live under fault conditions - so it should be earthed.
@@socialscene6361 I've spoken to about six electricians since and they all say the same thing: "It's a protection earth in case the cable is severed (usually in the ground), and should be earthed." I have my SWA running over a garage roof and cleated to the wall, so no fear of it being 'dug into'...but I will earth the shell regardless...
Pilot hole??
Hi guys I understand the idea of removing the paint for metal on metal connection and know you shouldn't make assumptions but I assume that the paint isnt there just for aesthetics and its purpose is to offer some kind of protection against corrosion and fire. That being said, will removing the paint, then make the ccu not comply with safety regulations? Good vid by the way.
If it was an IP rated board in an area subject with water or corrosive chemicals then you would need to consider paint removal as an issue. Remember when you push out a knock out or drill a hole you are exposing uncoated steel. Paint won't last long in a fire!
I am an adult learner who started level 2 (2365) this September. I find all your videos extremely helpful, and thought of the question during this video. Thank you for the reply and the information. Keep up the good work 👍
Not seeing an EEC path there, if you are like 90 and use Banjos you have to lug off onto the banjo, not the other end of some random bolt. If you have to use banjos earth the banjo and using a stuffing gland to pass the ECC into the enclosure.
Whaaaat there is a lock ring spanner well I never
Gaz, Gaz... what's with the trendy haircut attempt? 🤔
Hi. My haircut hasn’t changed in 15 years 😂. Thanks for the support Gaz
No good on wiska boxes
should omit the pilot hole and drill with the finished size drill bit straight in as you are case hardening the steel by use of the pilot