Homemade joystick
2016 ж. 10 Там.
74 496 Рет қаралды
This video shows some details of the joystick I made for flight simming. The grip is from an old Suncom F-15 stick.
Here are the hall effect sensors I use:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Here is the Leo Bodnar USB board:
www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.p...
Blows my mind that after all these years, no major manufacturer makes one of these! I can't even find any small companies building a ready to use full yoke stick! This is a great project and even from 6 years ago, this is one of the better setups on youtube! Congrats!
Incredible dude. I've been contemplating disassembling a Logitech F310 game pad and using the electronics to make some flight controls, but obviously greatly beefing up the mechanical switches and joysticks similar to what you've accomplished.
Great design, very clean!
Great use of Hall Effect, thanks for sharing.
Insprational!!! I found this video from seeing your A10A vid in the Rift, as I was interested in buying it to use in my Rift, given how great the F15C is. I have looked into building my own stick recently, based on that Suncom F15, or even better a real stick if I could get one and it's viable. A B8A or old Tornado stick perhaps. There are no great sticks out there for playing relaxing on the bed, the VKB MCG. I'd love to be able to weld, but not really had a call for it. Really awesome stuff. Heroic level home building!
damn, that is super well done. great work!
Looks great
Brilliant!
Randomly clicking on a timeline "My office in a dumpster"
pretty cool. i use and Logitech 3d pro set it in my lap and bring the keyboard to the edge of the desk. Need to see about replacing the sensors with Hall effect ones like u hav
Brilliant! Exactly what I need to build my simulator. Is that possible to get some drawings and references ?
Great job, I’m gonna do the same kind of thing for xbox using an old controller as interface, what is your degree of travel from the vertical and how do you null the hall effect sensors?
great job. freakin sweet
Nice work. Could you please make the same kind of presentation for your sim seat?
excellent and simply elegant. refreshing to see.
andy mclean thanks! The stick still gets a ton of use and hasn’t had a single issue!
@@seanrichardson742 im currently in the planning stage of building a cockpit and i am going to steel your design. i have an idea to add force feedback to it and would like to see what you think. can i send you some drawings to look at. im a blacksmith and this is my venture into this sort of engineering.
Dude, you are crazy for not making these to sell. I would buy one in a heartbeat.
I appreciate the comment! Trust me if I had the time, I would love to make these to sell. Day job, a house to build, and children to raise makes time for projects sparse these days.
I plan on doing something similar. a video on setting up the sensors would be good. ty
If you were to remake something like this How do you feel you would improve it?
Do you think you could give me plans for this, I have been working on a home pit (that's semi cheap). And I am already planning on making something out of a suncom joystick
I can weld, I can do those wiring too from existing sticks, but that bearing system still leaves some mystery. Oh and I would have fixed the arms to the springs by welding a X shape support pieces to each of them (so from the each leg connected to each other with small X) or just some beams. It as well should stop the bending, but your solution was different :) Very nice work. I have been thinking to replace the springs with a pneumatic stoppers/lockers, those you can get for windows so you can just open the window or close it and it stays in the position where you leave it (So not a springs that push against) as it would allow to get a non-centering force to move the stick but still keep it where you move it. That would at least be nice for KA-50 or helicopters trimming as you just move the stick and press trimmer to "lock" cyclic in place and no need to center it. If there just would be nice way to get a Force Feedback (FF) it would be nice, but such systems doesn't seem to exist that would be as easily plug'n'play like the joystick boards you showed (btw, those are just amazing to what they offer!).
For a long time I've been trying to think of an easy way to make this a force feedback setup, but to get the stick forces I want there just isn't any easy way. With the stick this long, you'd need motors with a lot of power. Some dampers like you are talking about would do wonders for stick feel. When I first built the stick I did have some nylon shaft couplers on each axis of the u-joint spider, to act as adjustable friction devices (tighten the bolt, you get more friction). The adjustment was too sensitive, it went from nearly no friction to basically a brake holding the stick in place, so I ditched them. I do still wish I had something to dampen the stick. If you're stuck on trying to make your own u-joint, you could always just buy your own u-joint, it's just a matter if figuring out how to fix some magnets and hall effect sensors on it. Next up for me on this stick is to replace the grip with the Thrustmaster F/A-18 stick grip whenever they release that, then I'll ditch the old suncom F-15 grip I use now.
Does the Leo Bodnar board use directx input or xinput?
LMAO what a thing to find in a dumpster. Those Suncom units are a great source for inexpensive replica hardware.
Hello, what is the sensor hall ? you can specify for me ? i have doubts in use potentiometer, you recommend ?
what springs did you use?
Wow!
Hey Sean, Make sure you get a patent on the joystick design. (very nice)
Hi great joystick. Did you use square or round magnets and did you have to limit the amount of travel on the joystick to get the calibration of the sensor and magnet to work ok
Thanks! The magnets are square. I wish I had some close up pictures showing how I milled out a slot in the end of each shaft to slide the magnet into. That was tough to machine. I didn’t have to limit the travel, it is calibrated with the generic USB game controller settings in windows. Works great.
Did you have much trouble with the hall effect positioning, and the air gapping between the magnet and sensor? That's the section I'm at now and I couldn't find much material online relating to low power electronics which gives advice on where best to position first the hall effect sensor but also the distance it should be away from the magnet.
No issues, I didn't put much thought into it. I have them fairly close, without touching. Maybe 0.5mm gap or so? The calibration has no issues and the signal is nice and clean. The Leo Bodnar board makes it very easy, it's basically plug and play.
I guess I'm late to this party, but I'll as anyway. What kind of magnets did you use? They look like cylindrical neodymium magnets, but what is the magnetization direction? Are those available in different variations when it comes to magnetization direction? I was able to find ones that are magnetized along the height of the cylinder and to my understanding of the hall effect and hall effect sensor it has no right to work with that kind of magnetization. What is the magnetization direction of the magnet used in your build?
Bravooooooooooooooo
That's awesome but I'm guessing it just gives you a generic feel with the springs. I'm a big FFB fan myself. I know it's not all that necessary for a modern jet sim but it you're flying an older jet like an L-39 or especially an older WWII warbird, then for me, FFB is essential for the realism. I use a Logitech G940 system which is a FFB stick and I have thought about seeing if the plastic stick part could be replaced with an aluminum tube (I think steel would be too heavy for the joystick axis) and remount the stick grip on top of it.
brettt777 I have thought a lot about how to make this back driven. I would love variable stick forces. The mechanics of it become very difficult though. With such a long stick, you would need VERY strong FFB motors and complicated linkages, to get the high forces that I want. A FFB yoke would be far easier to build, a stick brings lots of challenges. Your idea of extended an existing FFB stick is interesting, but I think with a long stick the forces will be far too light, unless you can oversize the motors. Fun fact, the real f-15 has a fixed stiffness on its stick, and I sized the springs on this stick to match the stiffness of the f-15
Hi Sean, thanks for the quick reply. Regarding the square mangnets what size did you use and did it matter about the North South poles when you placed sensor near the magnet I am using the bigger bodnar board for a cockpit I am builing cheers Rhys
I think they were 1/4” square, or maybe 3/8” square. I can’t remember. The north and south poles go out the faces of the magnet, not the sides. They are oriented so the poles are perpendicular to the end of the Hall effect sensor, not the side. Does that make sense? Easier explained with a sketch.
@@seanrichardson742 thanks Sean for the reply could you send me a sketch I think I understand but a pic would clear anything up I'm building a helicopter sim out of an old Hughes 300 cockpit Cheers Rhys
You are the only one i have found that makes full size joysticks. Would you make me one, and how much would you charge? i dont have the space tools or skills to make one.
Sadly I don't have time to do custom builds right now.
WoW!!!
Can you do a tutorial or link one on how to wire/use the hall effect sensors?
google "hall sensor arduino". the images will show the terminal connection, there is a lib example found online too
What are those springs you are using, I can't seem to find beefy ones like this online anywhere ?
I can’t remember the exact size of stiffness, but have you looked at McMaster-Carr? They have a huge selection of springs, I probably got them there
Hey Sean, have you built a collective or anti torque pedals? My friend and me are trying to build something like this and I'm digging this any suggestions?
Nope, but it would be very similar. You could probably simplify it and separate the lateral movement from the fore/aft movement, so you don't have to build a spider/u-joint. That was the trickiest part with this stick.
I fly fixed-wing only in real life, helicopters are too expensive.
I'm really curious about how those hall effect sensors work and how they're mounted. This has to be the best set up I've seen yet, not going to copy it but definitely would be similar. I'm a former C130 crew chief out of the Air Force and our controls don't move this good.
That's high praise, thanks man! The hall effect sensors are great. Very cheap, and have very clean and smooth output. At ~2:53 in the video you can see how each sensor is mounted. There is basically a small bracket that sticks out from the main stick structure, then the sensor is clamped down with a tiny piece of metal and two bolts. I did tighten that too much when I first built it and crushed a sensor, so when I got a replacement I wrapped it in two layers of heat shrink and didn't go quite as tight. One end of each shaft of the spider has a slot milled out and a small neodymium magnet glued in. Milling out those slots was pretty tricky in my mill, I'm sure there would be easier ways to do that. You basically just want the hall effect sensor aligned axially with the center of the magnet, as close as you can get to the magnet without actually touching it. Then the output of the hall affect sensor varies as the relative angle between the two changes.
Would love to build something similar to yours... would you consider sharing your blueprints for the build, and if so just make sure you copyright your drawing. Thank for the awesome vid, it was really informational.
Glad you found it interesting. You really don't need plans from my stick, there's not much to it. What you build depends on your capabilities as a machinist/welder, and I'm sure there are improvements that could be made over what I built. That said, it's been over two years now since I made the stick and it's still working great with zero issues.
Oh man. I so want that joystick. Can you build me one? It would be very usefull for me in flight simulator. Especially when we are doing demonstrations.
Nope, don't have the time to build and sell these right now. Maybe in a ~year, but it wouldn't be cheap.
Thanks for your answer. Do you know about some mechanical joysticks that are already on sale and they are not that expensive? or do you know about any extension for Thrustmaster HOTAS T-flight? It would definitely help.
I don't - the few good ones I found were all very expensive. That's why I made my own. You could always hack something together to extend an existing joystick, but the springs won't be nearly stiff enough. For the money to buy a good one, you could buy yourself some materials and a welder and make your own!
hi , it would be great if one could have access the arduino sketch that works with those hall sensors.
David Aristizabal it's not arduino, I use a board from Leo Bodnar. Link is in the description. It is plug and play.
Sean Richardson thanks for the answer. Another question do you know if that board can generate ppm in order to connect to a trainer port in a rc transmitter?
David Aristizabal you'd have to ask Leo Bodnar, I'm not sure. He has a few different boards though, might have something with the output you are looking for. I use it purely as a plug and play input device.
Instead deal with Arduino Sketches can use MMJoy2 firmware (developed by megaMOZG, the guy that develop VPC(VirPil) electronics), topics in DCS forum, SimHQ. This firmware support analog HALL sensor* - like the ones used by OP, KMZ-41 based sensors and TLE5010/5011 sensors, this in digital mode. *Analog HALL sensor (e.g. Honeweel SS495A1, Allegro A1324EUAT...) are wired in joystick controller boards like ordinary potentiometer, with +5V, Gnd and signal wires, just follow HALL sensor datasheet for correct identify pins.
Hi can you send a pic of the magnet and sensor orientation cheers Rhys
wish I could buy something like this for my birthday but they aren't sold online like this.
Buy yourself a welder and some steel and start building!
Sean Richardson thanks but I can almost guarantee it will turn out as a complete mess.
Good job i need this version not analog and small version for amiga 500 emulator :) 1 looks and i know this is solid Joy for players not like shity parts new build from mad catz or other shit. Thanks :)
So how about if you show it actually working?
m.kzhead.info/sun/ga-zhMqQnoyBf4E/bejne.html
Hey man can you give me mail on you I would like to build something similar for project at high school
Could you... Do one for me? :)
A few bucks a piece? You got ripped off, buddy!
re hi , ok i see your mod !!!! you can make one and selling me ? i really love this mod ! i have mod my talon on a base grip to warthog with electronic to cougar ^^ !
Sorry, I don't have time to make these and sell them, it's a lot of work. I would have to charge a LOT of money to make it worth my time.
Salut ,yes i understant !!!! Just really nice work !
Thanks for the comments! I take a lot of pride in the stuff I build.
I have mod m'y suncom on warthog and long grip ! And what is tje model on tour cocpkit ? Please . Thank's in advance .
thats why you outsource the building and selling to ppl lower on the ladder than you. might be a licensing issue with the original stick handle but otherwise great thinking
That board is $35 on their site! Ouch.
Small price to pay for an easy plug and play solution.
Does the Leo Bodnar board use directx input or xinput?