How To Desolder With Hot Air Without Melting Nearby Components
I have a PCB from a TV with a broken HDMI connector. I need to change it but it is surrounded by plastic components. How do I do it?
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Thank you
Richard
I just want to say thank you. Your channel is a treasure trove for me. I love undertaking electronic repair however there are things I'm not that good at, hot air desoldering is one of them but this video sure does helps.
Once again I never stop learning. I needed to have seen this just 24hrs ago before I needed to replace a number of slider faders on a lighting desk because each slider had quite a heavy metal casing and each slider was in close proximity the is neighbour. I now realise I needed to continue pursuing the lead solder/desolder/solder/desolder routine. I replaced them ok but . . . .hmmmmm . . . . it wasnt pleasant. Great video yet again.
It really seems to me that you genuinely enjoy everything you do related to electronics. Thumbs up from me and ofc I indeed subbed long time ago.
Add some low melt solder to all pins and and then hotair from behind (no parts on bottom of the board) should do the work easily (lift HDMI with pliers, when solder melts). That's a way almost every technician I have seen do this type of a job. ;-)
I made a video about this - low melt solder (ie chip quick) vs 60:40 solder.From my experience It does not help in the case of connectors such as HDMI and USB. It is very good for unsoldering IC kzhead.info/sun/iNWYctZ_kGZ_oKc/bejne.html Check it aout and let me know your thoughts
Hi Ricgard,, good work. Without preheat it is more difficult to desoldier. Ive the same one 👍👍👍👍
Hi Rich, there is a guy on YT who has a neat way of desoldering stuff like this. I think his channel is 'MrSolderfix' or similar and he uses a thick copper wire to connect all pins together using fresh solder then uses that to heat all at the same time to extract the offending article. He then uses braid to clear the holes afterwards. It looks very neat, though I've not had an opportunity to try it myself. May be worth looking at if you've never tried this method, though big ground planes are still an issue, maybe. Hope it helps.
I use his technique regularly now at work on the more heavy duty stuff like traffos and coils. Works great. I used a paperclip bent to shape also works great
I saw that video also. Technique works great. Ingenious.
Is that any different in principle to bridging all the pins with leaded solder. I will admit I never tried it (yet)
@@LearnElectronicsRepairsame principle, better heat transfer i guess
I also recommend giving MrSolderfix a watch. I have been watching his videos for a while now and some of his techniques have really helped me a lot. A true soldiering artist. I really enjoy the LER videos as well!
There is nothing better than a vacuum desoldering gun for this. I have a Hakko FR301 and it's a real game changer. I still would preheat and use the leaded solder like you did because there's so much copper.
I have the Hakko too, and it works really well. I see all of these professionals on KZhead going through all kinds of trouble to remove things that would take seconds with a good quality desoldering tool. I don't understand why they don't use one. Northridge fix is using a hand powered solder sucker to clean up holes after removing the component instead of just doing it all in one step. Good tools pay for themselves.
@@mattbentley8958 I watch Northridge Fix too, and I always say the same thing. He loves his manual solder sucker, but you couldn't pay me to go back to that after getting the FR301.
@@mattbentley8958 I tried first with the SS-331H but it wasn't clearing the holes well. I think at 15 seconds of hot air plus the preheater it came off pretty well to be honest
I find that Chip Quik desoldering solder which is largely composed of bismuth works well without having to use excessive heat that can damage the PCB. Use it with solder wick and lots of liquid flux. Been using this for years and don't have to wait for the board to be heated up.
I made a video about this exact topic. Chip Quik is very good for some tasks but does not help (anymore than adding leaded solder does) for jobs like this. Check out the video here kzhead.info/sun/iNWYctZ_kGZ_oKc/bejne.html
I use a few pieces of copper tape to cover the surrounding components. Using foil like you do is pretty smart tho bc you can keep reusing the same piece. Would the customer be ok with you using the shorter hdmi connector and dremel out the plastic on the bezel large enough to fit an hdmi cable down into? Assuming the correct connector cannot be found.
Hi Richard, what is the part number of the PCB? I noticed that there are often fully working boards for cheap on ebay. (you know, screens get broken more often than the boards)
The part number sounds like a manufacturers pick number. So it would not show up on Google. Great video I will definitely use some of your techniques in the work shop. I usually get put off with smd stuff . Thanks for your time and work in the video, from not so sunny Spain.
I searched on AliExpress for HDMI socket and Vertical HDMI Socket but no joy. The weather isn't too bad at the moment, it is a bit cloudy but still 24C day and minimum 18C night It will get better towards the weekend, sunny 27C Saturday 😁 www.accuweather.com/en/es/maspalomas/303036/daily-weather-forecast/303036
I usually just use flush cutters to physically remove the outer shied, that piece of metal is a huge heatsink, especially because it's always connected to a ground plane. Remaining pins are real easy to remove, just heat it, pull it out with some tweezers, and it leaves clean hole in 90% of the cases. Then remove the inner piece by flooding the pins with leaded solder and blasting it with some hot air, and then clean everything up with some copper wire/copper braid and a lot of flux. Works like a charm.
Aluminum foil trick works great, make a simple hear shield wire frame to hold it and viola no problems
Because it is so hard to find parts, this is why I salvage so many different connectors and even have boxes of old circuit boards just in case I need that odd part for a repair.
Does the length of the HDMI socket matter as long as it makes contact with the board and a cable makes contact with the socket?
i use a tinfoil with a poked hole for the component sometimes when desoldering chips. modified a lot of Mercedes ECU`s with this method
excelent
15:00 Its going to be a hard time finding an exact port, just get a short extension and hot glue it in place, meaning the hdmi female wire will be outside of the TV port, not a big deal since its behind the TV.
In my personal experience, it's never a good idea to hack or Jerryrig something for a customer. They'll rip it out, tearing pads off the board, and they'll blame you for it even though they agreed to you fixing it that way.
Back when I did TV repair, I had a bin full of scrap board and could always find stuff like that. You probably can find an HDMI connector with the correct height and footprint, just without the wings. I doubt it would make much difference.
Yeah this is a name brand LG tv, I do this on the side and I have 3 boards I could pull that exact connector off of. I insulated the roof in my garage, so i just take a short drywall screw and screw the boards to the ceiling so scan through them for parts quick and I dont waste time soldering stuff i may never use.
I'll try that?. THX.DAN
hi them ports are a right pain to deal with i used the old 3 rca ports my self not likley to rip the stockets
Отличный видос, все очень понятно и очень полезно 😮😃😃😃
I make covers for the parts I don't want to melt out of old soda or beer cans. Works very well. They just pop over a part like a tea cosy does with a teapot. You just have to be careful when cutting the cans into sheets that you can mould.
There are various ways to do this of course and there is no definitive right way or wrong way, just whatever works best for you 🙂 Thanks for the suggestion.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Spot on, Rich. All the different techniques are like having extra strings to your bow.
Hey there, that was fun thank you. But I was thinking is it possible to take the USB connectors apart themselves and switch out the internals and just put the good internal in the good proper frame.
FYI , I did not notice the KADA Rework Station 853B posted in your list of links. Is the max heat 350C ?
I have the same proskit desolder is a life saver.i recommend You to use 138 degrees solder past .i use it to remover HDMI frol consoles put it on the tip of Your soldering iron the apply it to the pins. With flux on it. Thats should be off in 1-2 min. Wow .15 seconds. I don't have a pre heater
A lot of the time you get a very similar issue with usb connectors, so I've resorted to buying a male to female extension for which ever connector make a small plate with hole an grommet in middle slide the end you want coming out the plate feed it through the existing plug hole blank it off with the plate and just hard wire the cut off end to the board to keep the functionality, for a practical work around to fix the job and not turn it into wasted landfill just for the sake of one female.... Socket. 👍
Desolder with low melt solder paste, very easy!
lead free solder is a nightmare for repair. you shuld stock up your supply;) And i would open the cover just wide enough to fit the plug t(h?)ru(e?) ;) It would be a bennift to the savety of the connector. Sorry for my poor english.
Those damn spare parts... had luck once by taking a close picture and using google lens... best of luck and thanks for sharing your experience! Oh btw, are you happy with your preheater? Any upgrade recommendation?
Yeah have used the KADA853B many times, often on this channel, and it works well. An IR preheater would probably work better on larger boards but I don't have one right now
Do you have a video explaining the component sizes? Such as a 201
I'd use some "Det cord" but would not expect much of the board to remain usable😂😅 Might have tried a small cutting disk and grind the connector away?
low melt solder is a good friend...
if you cant find a new one of those connectors why not try taking off that metal casing and putting it onto the one that you do have? it will take some work but if the broken one doesnt work why not just seperate it and put it on the other one? I have no idea how hard it will be though :D
Tipp for the hot air suction gun: flip the board and work with gravity, not against!
Hi Richard, Did I miss the PART 6 of "Graphics Card Step By Step Fault Finding Guide - How To Repair GPU Faulty / Not Found" or haven't you published it so far?
No I got distracted with a few things but it is coming soon
For desoldering pins, when the desoldering gun and the braid are not working well enough, I got a little toolbox of those tubes of different diameters made from a metal the solder doesn't stick to. Hold it over the soldered pin, heat up and push it down. In a lot of cases it will allow to detach the pin from the board when it cools down. Cheap too. Not a solution for those flat connector pins though
That sound quite useful. Do you know what they're called?
Yes what are they called I needed as well
I looked at all of JAE's hdmi connectors, there's nothing like that so my guess is that it is a special for LG, possibly made by someone else.
I did too. Same result. Next time I'll read comments first. :)
What if I have no "warming station"? My first attempt could be to make a constant pulling force from the connector's side while warming and pushing it's pins from the other side. The pulling force could be provided by two alligator clips plus some metal spring attached to the clips. Thus you could warm up pins locally and provide the constant lifting movement in the same time. Will this work, how do you think?
more likely to rip the pcb tracks off.
@@wibbley1 I was thinking about some light springs :) I've didn't mentioned it. Just to have some force so it will be moving in the proper direction while you're making solder joints liquid.
@@KiR_3d Problem being, if all legs solder does not melt at the same time, the legs that are still soldered will take all the weight and the track could be pulled from the board.
@@wibbley1 Are you sure that tracks are so fragile? They're under a layer of lacquer plus copper itself is glued to a textolite. You need some noticeable force to rip it off AFAIK.
@@wibbley1 also you can connect two light springs on sides :) So if you're right about that assumption then it must help to redistribute a possible stressload.
Could you share what height the connector must be please?
Hi. The connector is 13mm to the top excluding the lugs that go into the pcb and 10mm to the 'bunny ears'
Hmm, for connectors, wouldn't it be better to just take right-angle snips and just cut off parts of the connector, and then go in with a soldering iron for the remainder?
Could have heated from the under the board, nothing there but solder joints, its how i remove all my connectors like this, if possible.
Throw a couple nylon washers under there extend the pins and throw that sucker in lol
Знакомые проблемы😀. Но большая часть дела сделана.
I can't tell but if the outer metal jacket is the only difference, I personally would consider swapping it with the shorter one. If it's a problem and that HDMI is more important (main input) I would consider swapping the good plug up and put the other one on the other position. Hopefully you already found a solution by now.
Could you not just fit the short connector, then use a short HDMI extension lead. Like the leads that come with apple firesticks. Or whatever there called 😄.
How much do you charge to fix a broken off fan port on a PS5 motherboard?
Where are you?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair GA.
@@leadingauctions8440 I'm in Gran Canaria so I expect the postage would be expensive
Are the bunny ears transferrable in some way? Also, what are the dimensions of the port? You could probably get the same dimensions but that bizarre shape is most likely Samsung proprietary BS
That was my thought. The metal part of the damaged HDMI connector seems intact. I wonder how hard it would be to remove it and transplant it onto the undamaged HDMI connector as the pins and body are part of the plastic section.
i think he would of been better to just to get another bourd of ebay as he still goto pay you for the repair and the hdmi part thanks for the video
Possibly, but not my decision. I've no idea how much a replacement board is, I never looked. I quoted €40 plus the cost of the connector. The client only brought the board, not the TV so I don't have to take time taking it apart and putting it back together again or testing it.
Although it sounds like a good plan initially, that route can be a nightmare. Manufacturers constantly change the LCD panels. For each type of panel you need a matching TCON board. And for each TCON board the main board needs the matching firmware. I've been down this route before and got nowhere. You could get a board and remove the HDMI connector from it!
@@chrishartley1210 if you already have two boards what stop you from flashing firmware from one to another? At least for now all of them use some type of 25qxxx which is easy to swap or just read and than flash on replacement board.
@@gorjy9610 That very much depends on the manufacturer. On Vestel boards it is held in a bootstrap area of the main storage. In such a case the only sensible solution is to scrap the TV and never buy a Vestel TV ever again.
good desoldering skills, Its all junk electronics today.
The problem with engineers is they like to design stuff rather than use off the shelf components.
In programming it's called "Roll your own". Pretty highly discouraged since you don't have the time to endlessly debug your own crap work enough. As you can see in so many brand new and improved web sites that don't work, it's good advice! But not as much fun, though.
Depends, as the price tag/availability matter. As for the programming, if we don't take some web stuff and other things involving toy languages, the true low-level code is clearly worth the effort of writing it on your own - saves ton of optimization time, along with the spaghetti callstacks so popular among the newschool copy-n-paste fans.
Пропаять сплавом Розе, и потом горячим феном выпаять.
Low-melt solder would be your friend here?
Actualy no. I made a video about this and it works no better than adding leaded solder if you are trying to desolder HDMI and USB connectors. It is very good for removing IC
Chipquik??
No good for connectors such as HDMI and USB - I made a whole video about this
Kapton tape. Saved you 15 mins.
FFS! Just heat from underneath! Patience, moderate heat and flow and just take it from behind!
You need to maintain your solder tips better than what I saw.
It seems like you're trying so hard not to say " yeah " every Sentence 😂 but anyway could u do a video on repairing ssd connection all the pins snapped on it and 2x pads came off the pcb on the data pin side of the connectors I have a new connector to solder on but I'm struggling to work out what to do with the missing pads I don't have a high tec lab just a normal cheap soldering station with temp control and a fluke multimeter all I need is for it to work for 10min to recover my data
Use a desoldering bulb or desoldering sucker. It’s the best method to removing components.
Chipmunk. It's a life saver. Then use low temp solder to put the connector back on.
It is easier to use a low temperature solder, for example 138 or 145 degrees Celsius.
noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
Heh yeah that's the problem with high-density connectors nowadays... they are custom made for a specific product and you can't get spares. This is "by design" and the manufacturers know that ;-)
dear oh dear what a pantomime .....................
As a professional repair man i recommend not to accept such jobs.As we all know,when working on electronics aspecially microsoldering,anything can gow wrong.So unless a tv main board has only one hdmi port and its is broken,its not worth the risk of ruin an otherwise perfeclty working tv.And as we all know,tv main boards can be expensive ,if you can find one available that is..
I remove it only using lighter !!! No hot air No solder sucker!
what type of lighter , one with a flame, or the noisy torch type?