BIGGEST DIY Mistakes Joining Cables
2023 ж. 22 Қаз.
191 155 Рет қаралды
Common mistakes joining cables, and how to address these issues.
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The Wago's are an amazing invention, safe and simple for domestic electrics.
Absolutely! Thanks for watching!
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 Strangely enough it's pronounced Vah-Goh. Watched an efixx video interviewing some guys from Wago who said it's named after 2 guys who made the patent for it in the 50's.
@@djoakeydoakey1076correct, we were using Va-go products over 20 years ago on panels for industrial machines. Seems to have taken a long time for UK sparkies to accept them.
Also WAGO is a private company and has the patent on it, outlawing it so it becomes a monopoly and can change the prices whenever it wants its a terrible idea
@@MrFiver1111Ideal has recently made a competitor, so there is competition, so if the price is too high, they will lose marketshare.
I bought that exact same ferrule set last year - I've been guilty of using stranded wires in screw connectors in the past... I have changed my ways 😀
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching!
Stranded wires in screw terminals used to be pretty much standard for a long time - until peopl enoticed that wasn't very reliable. Same for tinning the end of stranded wires. And some folks just don't get why they should not continue as they used to.
It's "Horses for Courses" Stranded wires in screw terminals are great for prototyping. You just have to be aware of the application and the suitability of the hardware you are choosing.
@@markawbolton prototyping is fine, nothing can be perfect in the prototype stage. Things are different when we're talking about connections transfering enough power to cause a fire hazard. So I'm inbetween twisting wires, soldering, screw terminals but also wagos for terporary connections.
@@ralfbaechle Well at the prototyping stage everything must be manipulable. But that said the sorts of things that require screw connections rarely are in contention. To build a machine that goes into service requires a whole differnt mindset. I am sure we both understand this.
i was looking for this video the other day and now i've found it! Thanks for posting l! Going TS now to collect my wagos and casing! 😊
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
The twisting of solid core wire is not that bad as presented in this video, of course it have to be done correctly which it was not in this case. The right way is to strip about 10 cm of wire, twist the cores tightly together for 7-8 cm, cut the excess wire off, put a sleeve over the twisted part and bend it on the middle (this is to keep the sleeve from falling off and the wire from untwisting). When I first was introduce to this method outside my native country I was chocked "How can they use such a terrible method to connect wires ?", but it had been proven to me a few times that it, if executed correctly, gives a lower transition resistance than the resistance that actually is in the cable itself, second concern is long time stability, and I have seen decade old installment that are still showing no signs of bad connections. So far so good. So why do I almost always replace these connections to wago's when I see them ? Well first of all they take up a lot of space in a box, then it is a pain in time and work to do fault finding on a circuit that is made this way, and you may not have the needed wire length to redo the connection. There is different ways to evaluate "what is a good connection of wires ?", some think it is ease of use, other think time is money, others again think that low transition resistance is king, others look at the total cost, as long at you follow the local law/code/etc. any method is good enough if executed correctly. In this video there were a few methods (the once that the author do not like ?) that was executed very badly, that is not fair to the methods itself. I know that exaggeration promotes understanding, but in this case, where you, to a certain extent, compare different methods, then this exaggeration is not useful.
I agree. I've also seen decades old twisted joints that were still pristine. Problem is, the only good ones I've seen were done by a proper experienced spark. Every single one of DYI twists I've seen were horrible bodges. So, in that context, the video is absolutely correct.
A very well written comment, I agree with everything you’ve said. The twisting I did in the video was not good twisting, but the idea of the video was to illustrate the mistakes likely to be made. Thanks for watching!!
In the Philippines, "twist & tape" is the standard connection in almost all installations. They can be done well and they do last quite a long time, but I have seen many issues with them. Once the predominant 3M electrical tape was mostly replaced by no-name Chinese products, the tape could unravel within weeks in a hot attic. In the last rented house I found 40 year old twist & tape connections outside of junction boxes laying on highly flammable plywood ceilings. They had rewired the main panel about 10 years ago, but left much of the old wiring in place. Many outlets did not work, some had weird voltages. Lights suddenly stopped working. Then we found a 2000 Watt ground fault producing heat for weeks, but it did not trigger the circuit breaker. The owner had about one third of the house rewired to fix the fault, but left the existing dangerous connections outside of j-boxes in place. We installed a fire alarm and moved out as soon as possible. The electrician that did the partial rewire actually did a reasonably good job: the twist & tape connections looked solid and were protected by junction boxes, and the correctly sized wires were protected by solid PVC conduit.
Twist and into a choc block is the bare minimum
@@ChristianWagner888 if you just had wire nuts it would solve the tape issue and very easy to do and cheap probably less than the 3m tape.
I've never seen the ferrules before. The times I've needed these! Pretty much used everything else in this video. Thanks for the info.
Glad it was helpful!
Ferrules are a bless here at trade school, where things gets connected and disconnected hundreds of times, all the time :)
@@BPo75 I wish I knew about them years ago when doing electronics. It's always been the part where my projects went a bit crappy, finding ways of joining copper wire to circuits with Chinese rubbish terminal blocks. I don't like soldering the wire ends because that introduces problems of it's own
I’m a ferrule convert, even where they’re not required by code. They take a second to apply, but save soooo much time down the line, not having to deal with wayward strands.
@@tookitogo Since I bought a big box of mixed sizes from Amazon, I'm finding they are very useful. Used loads all ready. Much better than just soldering bare wire to a PCB or Buck/Boost converter. I now solder a terminal block and connect to that for a better connecting without fear of oxidization.
I enjoy your posts 👍 keep on doing them my friend
Thank you, very appreciated!
I’ve been using terminal connector blocks for years with absolutely no issues, using bootlace ferrules with these types of connectors makes a perfect match too. It’s nice to see other products available though and I’m sure they will have their use.
Thanks for watching!
same, if people know how to use them then they are fine. I think all the new sparks only know Wago and think that is the only thing to use.
Biggest issue is they’re not maintenance free, so have to be accessible when installed, where Wagos (when installed correctly) are, so don’t need to be accessible.
@@gainmaster1 Screws can work loose. Wagos do not work loose.
@@johnburns4017 maybe if you were tightening it, how did people survive without them before. Do screws become loose on MCB etc too? There is always a possibility that can happen, they work when you use them correctly as like any electrical connection
Very informative. I like the idea of putting those ends one stranded, and using them in a Wago.
Yeah the ferrules are great, thanks for watching!
Your explanation of the ratings on the WAGO connector are wrong. The ones on the left (next to the "UL" logo) that say "450V/32A" are from the IEC and apply for both *Europe and the US.* That's why the same side also lists the wire size in both mm² and AWG (American Wire Gauge). The rating on the right side is from the JET (Japanese Electrical Safety and Environment Technology Labs) for the Japanese market. (However, note that even though the _connector_ is rated to 32A, the maximum wire size (14 AWG) is only rated to 15 amps for building wiring in the US, so this connector can only be used on up to 15 amp building circuits according to US code (otherwise the wires would be too big). However, if you are using it for other applications (for example open-air chassis wiring inside an enclosure) you could potentially take advantage of the full 32A of the connector in some situations.)
Thank you for your detailed explanation, you’re absolutely right! Thanks for watching!
They also make a 6mm^2 (12awg) version of the Wagos with the same ratings.
Actually the standard Wagos allow AWG12 wire with 20A and the higher powered Wagos allow AWG10 wire with 30A. The inline Wago shown in the video shows AWG14, but the website of Wago shows AWG12 in the specs.
@@ChristianWagner888 Sorry you're correct, I managed to get the two standards mixed up even after reading the comment above explaining them.
@@ChristianWagner888 The other ones have always said 12 AWG, but I think the older inline connectors were only rated for 14 AWG originally (I have some that say the same thing), but it sounds like maybe newer ones will do up to 12...? Even if the website says 12, if the connector itself only says 14, I would not use it with larger than 14 AWG, personally. There's no guarantee the website isn't just a misprint or something.
Thank you, i have always used "choc box" connectors, but i have just ordered the Wago type you mentioned to give a try!
Hope you enjoy them!
Well that's a win for the undisclosed covert sponsor then right?
Thanks for the explanation man :) cheers!!
Thanks for watching!
You showed the wago boxes, which are great. But I now use the Quickfix Junction Boxes for Wago's, much better! neater and suit UK wiring better
I hadn’t seen those before, they look great, I’ll definitely get a few of those soon. Thanks for sharing!
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 They are great but make sure you have the right size wagos. I bought one from amazon and in the picture it had the wago connector. Order some of those separately but they were the wrong ones!
Last week I took a connector out of the circuit because it failed after 50 years. The screw had pressed on the copper and flattened the spot. The sparks caused a layer to form on the oxidation insulation. And this deposit had become conductive. This led to short circuits between two hot conductors. I now only use WAGO terminals. Installation is easy and the contact is secure. I change screw connectors for WAGOs.
Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching!
Wow......... I had a 30amp block connector hidden behind an old cupboard that I fitted 48 years ago taped over with electrical tape! Renovated the whole kitchen last year and extended the ring with extra sockets and spurs but the connector block was as good as new. Now discarded as new 2.5mm didn't need joined up......... but nothing wrong with them, just that Wagos are the new slimline kid on the block.
when joining flex type cables a, as in hedge cutter, which I have cut through I would always solder the cables together carefully so that there is no chance of coming apart. I shall seek some of those Wago boxes. Thanks for this information.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent, thank you !
Thanks for watching!
Wait a sec, you want to teach somebody about connections, showing in your thumbnail phot that Wagos (perfectly safe and strong) are bad, and then showing NOT EVEN CONNECTED terminal block as "worse".
A terminal block not connected is still worse than a wago haha. The wago in thumbnail shows exposed copper, that is why it isn’t okay.
Nice overview - thanks
Glad it was helpful!
is twisting and then soldering the cable a suitable way to make a connection? are you allowed to soldier inline wire connections infact?
I’m not sure, but i wouldn’t recommend doing either, there are much better and easier options available. Thanks for watching!
Soldering is no longer acceptable under the latest BS7671 regs. The solder is brittle and can deteriorate when applied to cables. Solder is fine on circuit boards etc as the joint is (mechanically) fixed. Ferrules is the new accepted approach.
30A juntion boxes are designed for ring final circuits. They were commonly used and still are to extend cables. Each leg of a ring is desinged to pull at max of 27 Amps at fault. So a 30 Amp jnc box in situe is perfectly acceptable as long as it's accessible for inspection. We tend to use wago and ideal connectors in Maintenance free boxes so we don't have to worry about inspecting them.
In theory you could have a very long ring and sockets close to the CU maxed out, and probably exceeding 26A, or even 30A, on that short leg. Thanks for watching!
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759on a ring final circuit the sockets are fed from both sides so there won't be an issue with sockets being further away from the fuse box. Did you know that 2.5mm twin & earth cable is only rated for 26amps? A 30amp junction box will be more than adequate
How will the maximum fault current only be 27A when the circuit is protected by a 32A breaker? And this is only the working current not fault current rating which can be in the hundreds of amps momentarily.
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 to fully understand the UK ring final circuit you need to understand the application of diversity. This is usually beyond the understanding of your average DIY’er. If in doubt consult the qualified electrician.
Ring circuits will have two cables coming out the circuit breaker supplying the sockets so the 32 amps will be split between both cables that's how you are able to use 2.5 cable rated at 26amp as the electricity will take the path of least resistance meaning it will draw from the cable that's closest to that socket
Is it possible to just twist the stranded copper wire and insert them into a Wago connector. If not can you recommend what connector crimps to purchase.
I just bought some amazon ones, I’ve got a video on electrical tools that has the one i used linked. I wouldn’t recommend just putting the stranded in. Thanks for watching!
These Wago 221 connectors are indeed rated for solid, stranded and even fine stranded wire. So using a ferrule is not only pointless but also not recommended by Wago.
Main rule is to never twist! Always use a suitable connector, and put it in an enclosure.
I was looking at my training documents from the seventies where we had chock blocks, twist connectors and fabric insulating tape. It does mention twisting the earth and didn't require sleeving!! the term CPC hadn't been discovered then!!
Interesting to hear, thanks for sharing and thanks for watching!
I wonder if _CPC_ became the preferred term after a meme went around the Internet showing a Russian _„Widowmaker“_ type shower with the green wire running into a plastic cup full of soil, which had - Predictably - Been labelled (In Cyrillic)... ... *„Earth“* 🤣
how do you spell wehgo? do they need a ferrule or can you use bare stranded wire, for non wall current. 8:30 can i solder the tips instead of ferrule for non wall current?
You could solder, but more effort than it is worth. Thanks for watching!
Thanks COOP ...
Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much sir.
Most welcome!
All depends on the load. Wago for light circuits but I'm with screw down connecter strip. It's not what you got, its how you use it.. :)
Hahaha very true, thanks for watching!
No it doesn’t, Wagos can be used for any circuit up to 32a, so are perfectly acceptable for lighting, ring and radial.
@@Pugjamin Here ovens are on a 32A circuit. Would wagos be used ?
Never seen a maintenance free connector for 4mm2 conductors.
Do you ferrule all wires before wiring a plug?
Only stranded cores, solid don’t need it. Thanks for watching!
a plug? HAHA
The current rating of that screw terminal connector is going to be way higher than 5 or 6 amperes. I would say at least 15 amps. It is, after all, as larger as the screw terminals on a typical socket, which are rated for 32A. What is more, the conductive metal cross-sectional area is more than a Wago type. The danger is a poor connection, not the rating of the connector in that case unless you use it on something like a shower circuit. Cable ties in the Wago box are nothing to do with IP ratings, they are there to meet the requirement that it requires the use of tools to access the live conductive parts.
Interesting to know, thank you. Thanks for watching!
I replaced a bunch of screw terminal junction boxes in my own home with Wago boxes. They were all at least 12 years old. Some of the older boxes had loose screws and even evidence of arcing where connectors were loose. The problems are; the connectors are brass with brass screws and these are relatively well self-lubricating metal on metal contacts and the copper single core wire is fairly soft and deformable, especially compared to the brass. Often these boxes are in lofts or roofspaces where temperatures fluctuate considerably (+/-15-30oC), cold in winter/at night and warm in the summer/day. The fluctuating temperature cycles over a number of years expand and contract the wire trapped by the screw, loosening the screws grip on the wire by a combination of compressing the wire more and loosening the well lubricated screw. Eventually the wire is barely held by the screw. Wires under any tension can be pulled out of the terminal altogether. What makes things worse is when someone has put 3, 4 or even 5 wires under one screw! Wago levers are a sprung fixing, so there is some give and positive pressure capturing the wires, in theory they should last indefinitely, however plastics do deteriorate with heat cycles and UV exposure so worth making them inspectable and checking them periodically.
Good points, thanks for watching!
Good rule that screws should be tightened once a year, especially high loaded
Personally I have never had any issues using wago connectors with their designated boxes as they are really simple and safe to use on most applications. I just don’t favour the screw type connectors (I.e chockblocks and JBs) as it’s very easy for those kind of connections to work their way loose over time with current and heat, whereas wagos and push connectors tend to stay springed in place. Generally speaking, any screw termination has to be tightened up sufficiently but not overdone so it crushes the copper too much.
Yep agreed, wagos are best and the screw terminal types best avoided where possible. Thanks for watching!
Are screw terminals in 3 pin plugs safe? Can you buy wago pushfit type 3 pin plugs?
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 The modern wago connection system is definitely very neat. But, just to consider the statistical probabilities that screw type connections are in some way bad - I'd guess that 99.99% of connections in UK domestic installations were made using screw connections. And I don't believe there are masses of dangerous problems arising in those millions of properties with hundreds of connections! Yes, of course, there will be examples of problems (possibly disastrous) that arose through mis-use of screw connections. But, as I said, there's a much larger population size for those problems to be encountered from.. Plus, the problem cause being mis-use rather than inherent deficiency in design concept. It would be interesting to know if there are any real-world stats available counting prevalence of issues arising in the two types of installation i.e. wago-type v. screw-type, and the number of installation sites, to make a scientific verdict possible.
Can these be used to extend wires to reposition a consumer unit ?
Yes you could use wagos to relocate a consumer unit, but typically electricians use DIN rail connectors in special enclosures. Consumer unit relocation isn’t a DIY job though, you need a qualified professional. Thanks for watching!
Not that tape a replacement for an enclosure or ever considered a permanent solution but if you use the correct tape for the job, it won't deteriorate as the correct tape if self-amalgamating adhesive tape, that is tape that is not held together by glue but the layers of tape will weld together and form a single solid. You won't be able to remove such a tape by pulling or just "unrolling" it, the only way to get rid of that tape is to cut it off. It's also perfectly waterproof and heat resistent and these are permanent properties. Such a tape even works under water and it's the only kind of tape you should ever use for temporary fixes that guarantees long lasting properties until a better fix is possible. It's also pressure resistent and an even fix water leaks on pressure pipes and that while there is pressure on the pipe and the water is currently leaking. And there are situations where you need a fix right now and a better fix isn't possible until two years later as it requires huge amounts of renovations which cannot be done over night.
Thanks for watching!
Great video for basic DIYERs , but if you do a follow up, please note that if using a chocbox then the cables entries should be secured using the providing cable clamp to make sure the cable is secured from undue tugging to stress and the cables do not pull out of the connector block which also hooks onto one of the pegs in the lid to ensure that the connector block is secure inside the enclosure
Very kind of you to say so, and good points! Thanks for watching!
Can one use the WAGOs for 4/6mm solar cable? Tx
I think it is max 4mm for the standard wagos, they do a larger size though. I don’t know how much current solar panels output, so you’ll need to make sure any connections are appropriately rated. Thanks for watching!
Haha. Apparently it's a miracle no house I've ever lived in has burnt down.
Thanks for watching!
@TheDiligentDIYer......... My mum's house still has the round brown and white junction boxes under the floorboards with no sign of breakage, overheating or anything untoward Should I get an electrician to have them all replaced due to the inability to deal with higher amps?
here we just use wire nuts which act to hold the wires together against each other tightly twisted so would have the rating of the wire that is being joined since the current goes from wire to wire.
Yeah I’ve seen wire nuts before, not a big fan personally, but I know popular in the US. Thanks for watching!
In the closeup at 4:03 some kind of rating marking is clearly visible on the screw connector.
Yes, they are PA9 type 450v 2.5 connector blocks rated for 24A current. Most of the video is practically wago commercial (not that i don't like wagos), with rather little actual knowledge on the subject, starting on what the markings mean and what's the difference between both electrical systems and regulations in eu, uk, us etc.
Thanks for watching!
WAGO in my opinion is the route to take. Very capable and a safer design. Good for 32A too.
Yep agreed! Thanks for watching!
It's really interesting to see how different places do residential wiring. Here in the US, as you probably know, most household branch circuits for the past 50+ years are 15 or 20A, 120V, with 14 or 12 gauge solid wire, or about 1.6 or 2.0mm. All splices have to be done in a UL listed enclosure, with a UL listed device, and be accessible. On solid wire, installed properly, UL listed wire nuts are fine, and probably 95% percent of US homes are wired that way. But I agree wagos are a bit better. The push in types are frowned upon here, because some products were on the market..and still are...that have proven to be not reliable and have some hazards. So many electricians avoid them as shoddy. It takes a long time to shake a bad reputation.
Thanks for watching!
I have bene using screw blocks [choc blocks] for 30 years and have not had ONE single issue, except one day a wire broeke off as the wire was too thin. - I use everywhere - from 240V AC to 12 V DC, and for all types of Signal wires. It works well and if done properly, will last a long time. The ratings on those choc blocks are high and I have yet to see and appliance that will melt them.
Thanks for watching!
So I was going to comment earlier - choc blocks, from where I come from, I think used to come from the fact they were chocolate-brown.
Agree. With screw blocks [choc blocks] you see and control what you are doing. With all these new inventions you see nothing and God knows what's inside. Plug and pray...and hope you will be able to sue the manufacturer if something goes wrong 🤠
It's ok to prevent people from doing dumb things that can actually hurt them when they attempt to work with potentially dangerous items/devices/installations. Anyhow, household electricity doesn't present that much of a danger IF some precautions are taken beforehand. For example, PLEASE, if you are going to work with electricity, WEAR SHOES, make sure the floor is DRY and SWITCH OFF THE BREAKERS so you don't get shocked. I'll have to say that in the Americas (maybe with the exception of Argentina and a few other countries), we commonly have 110V/60Hz, so a shock is not that dangerous unless many other things go wrong, but if in your country you have 220V electricity, be very careful as a shock is really bad and can actually kill you even if every other precaution is taken, so SWITCH OFF THE BREAKERS before doing anything. That being said, electricians have been twisting cables for decades with outstanding success, so calling it a dangerous, potentially fire-hazard way of connecting cable is a huge exaggeration. And that is because, even if the twisted cables get loose or uncovered, you would need another live cable, a ground or a neutral to provoke a short, and even then, if the breakers are correctly installed, the protection (short or temperature) will jump and all you will have is a part of your house without electricity until you fix the problem. This types of junctions are made for safety so electricians don't get shocked, for ease of use so you don't have to use pliers to twist cables, and for saving space as a very small junction box is much smaller than any other alternative. But other methods are still valid if you need to use them, and direct contact of twisted cables is much more efficient for transferring electricity from one cable to the other and all you need to worry about is the actual amperage the cable itself can handle. That's why nowadays electricians still twist cables but then also weld or solder them together.
Thanks for watching!
Twist connection is best of all. But You need to use pliers. Length of twist -2 cm. After all - Solder it, and then wrap with insulation. It will last 100 years :) Screw connection - will always loose after time - I think due to temperature differences. Wago springing connector (first shown) - I don't believe it - as there is very little area of connection. Could be good LED lamp circus and others with small current, but I'll not advice it for others. Written description - what current and voltage is allowed to connector other than Wago is not important. Insulation in home electricity should be 1000 V resistant, and current should flow mostly between wires (wires should be put one on another) - not via connector.
Thanks for watching!
Can anyone tell me if 'Wire Nuts' are still allowed in the UK?
I’ve not seen one used before, but not sure on the legality. Thanks for watching!
My grandpa was a DIY-er and the wired up a shed with flexcore wires twisted together 😳 After his passing, I re-wired the whole shed. God bless his soul, but I was terrified of the things I saw.
Well i guess at least it didn’t burn down first! Thanks for watching!
Sorry for your loss, but I bet ya grandpa didn’t get electrocuted in his shed. You need to worry on what killed him. Bit like saying your scared of heights when in fact it’s the ground that kills you. 🤪🤣😂✌🏻
STRANDED WIRE? You showed crimping stranded wires with terminators before inerting into Wago, but Wago say that they "safely connect solid, stranded and fine-stranded conductors". Would you say that is safe?
Wago are wrong haha. Thanks for watching John!
Am definitely guilty (As a DIYer) of having wrapped the connector block in electrical tape in the past. Have also found examples of cables being twisted together and taped - mainly in older properties 😱 Yeah for speaker wire / bell wire, maybe... But can't believe anyone though that was a good idea for mains voltage!
Yes I think it is a common one haha. You would hope no one would twist mains cores, but I’m sure it happens! Thanks for watching!
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759nothing has ever happened from doing that ,you just overreacting just to make people buy the wagos ,surely you get paid by them
I wish I got paid by Wago, and electrical fires do happen
See my comment ( a few comments above ) , twisted wires CAN be used if you then SOFT SOLDER them and cover with adhesive lined heatshrink tubing ( from a professional wireperson ) ..... DAVE™🛑
Twisting is fine for mains if you do it properly, unlike the caricature shown in the video
6 - twisted flex: common in Saudi, and for quite hefty loads too, seen in public spaces such as for shop front signage. Last one, flex into a block, is essentially how a wires in a plug are connected (but with flex sheath grip too).
The flex should have ferrules over the cores in the screw terminals though
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 there's no space in a regulated 13 amp plus.
There are LOTS of things that are common in Saudi, that are very much not ok.
Electrician here, please keep doing what you guys do. It keeps guys like me employed!
Thanks for watching
Well said, retired colleague here, still shaking head.
@@AFLOVEable So, what are your issues with the info he presented?
e.g. that all these different clamps are for different uses, therefor can't be compared - that e.g the wago are in use for almost 50 years and well tested. Also regarding the sizes, they can't be overloaded by high Ampere fuses. They are restricted to a certain size of wire (1.5, 2,5 square-mm) and cables with these wires are already restricted in fuse size, normally 10-20A. If you ever dare to put a 32A-fuse into your light and outlet-circuits you gotta bigger problems than the clamps if you draw 32A.@@Showing_the_car_
@@Showing_the_car_usual crap, great with words but never add anything of substance or value
The plastic bit on the end of my laces broke of and i used a crimp to make a new one after 3 months its still holding
Thanks for watching!
For people who are nervous about the lack of connection area with Wagos you can find videos of them being tested under load - to destruction - and they actually take much higher loads than their ratings, so you can be confident that the contact area is fine. And unlike screw connectors the pressure is constant and can't slacken unless they're overloaded and heated to ignition point. Additionally - unlike twisting connections and screw connectors - Wagos don't bend or damage the copper in any way.
Great point, thank you! Thanks for watching!
Think you've got them the wrong way round. The clamping power of the standard connecting block is way over that of the Wago , you have no control over it unlike the connector block. Just as long as they are used inside an enclosure, they are perfectly fine, which goes for all connection methods
Thanks for watching!
I agree - the Wago is a spring clamp, with a relatively poor connection. A screw-down block has a much better connection across many more strands.
@@SimonWad I just like to add that the spring's main function is to press the wires against the bussbar inside the Wago-connector.
The difference is that the springs being made of spring steel maintain a constant clamping pressure indefinitely. With a screw clamp the pressure reduces as the ductile copper wire relaxes over time. It's also impossible to overtighten a Wago.
Ah, good point - I hadn't considered this. @@petehiggins33
I know almost nothing about electric stuff. I know how to install an outlet and switches but I prefer to let an electrician do it cause I don't feel comfortable doing that. I have never made an error cause I'm very careful, though. If I had to choose a connector I would choose the Wago. The rating and lenght of the "strip" (bare copper) is printed on the connector and it's easy to use.
Thanks for watching!
@2:40 Insert both cables into the chocolate stick from one side. Strip enough insulation to allow the copper be gripped by both screws, but don't have copper beyond the terminal. This way, the connector isn't carrying all the circuit current to make the connection. I've recently fitted downlights and replaced the 'wagos' which came with them, because just the slightest tug on the cable caused it to pull out of the terminal....also, wago types carry all the current on the connecting metal....might not be a great idea. I was taught to twist solid copper conductors together, before putting them in a teminal....that's now frowned upon, as it stresses the copper which will produce a weak or broken connection.
Thanks for watching!
I use screw connectors more out of habit, but always in the connection the two wires overlap, they are pressed by both screws.
Thanks for watching!
@ lenaisx .. I do the same. Both screws make the connection and therefore give twice the clamping area for mechanical strength and twice the clamped surface area for electrical conductivity.
Very good instruction video ! ...... Flex breakages may result in a ( very expensive ) appliance being thrown away .... these CAN be reconnected , but , ( CARE ! ) the wires need to be twisted together and then SOFT SOLDERED ! , with adhesive lined heatshrink tube used to isolate the conductors .. then .. an overlay of tough adhesive lined heatshrink tube used to surround the whole assembly ... this provides a ( safe ) but a tad ugly fix ... but ... it is VERY safe if done CORRECTLY ... DO NOT just twist and cover with PVC tape ( OMG ! ! ) ..... ( tried - n - Tested , many times ! ) ...... DAVE™🛑
Thank you, thanks for watching!
I don’t agree with your fascination with wago connections. In my opinion as an electrician of 35 years the screw terminal is fat superior. The wago relies on a spring and springs weaken in time causing a weak connection which hears up further weakening the spring resulting in a burnt out connection. Use a screw connector block.
Thanks for sharing your opinion
Interesting thoughts but I don't agree.
Can you explain why is twisting dangerous? My house has twisted wires and they still last 30 years later
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I remember when I was young, and my dad didn't have a spare 3-pin plug anywhere to plug in an appliance, so he connected the live and the neutral cables straight into the plug socket...
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How do you connect cables together then?
Using an appropriate connector. Thanks for watching Grant!
We know traditional junction boxes last for many decades. What's the evidence for longevity of the clamp type connectors?
Fair point, but they are German, so I’ll take some assurance from that. Thanks for watching!
While i do enjoy the WAGO connectors, in terms of quality of the connection, the screw ones are the best, but are also used wrong by everybody. Come with the wires so that both screws catch each wire, 2 points of mechanical connection is the safest way to do it. Might not look as pretty as WAGO but for sure they are more secure, remember that a wire will get hot at the weakest connection point, 2 screws on each wire is better than any other clamping method.
More secure until the screw backs out. How often are you going back to check the screws on previous installations?
@@Pugjamin derivation clamps inside electrical panels have screws... 2 of them. The job of an electrician is to tighten these and then after a week to do another inspection and check again the screws. It is the same drill for the circuit breakers. Nothing is fool proof, somebody has to do his job right!
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2 03 Then how come modern socket outlets are rated 30 amp and not 32 amp ? As most commonly on a 32 amp ring circuit.
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I don't think any of the ones shown are legal for permanent installations in houses in Denmark. Especially if the fire insurance is to cover a possible fire.
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I have been using wagos for over 50 years Never had a single issue with them.
I didn’t know they’d been around so long, good to hear! Thanks for watching!
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 eh. Oh ..Errmm.. Yeah .. I actually invented them.. Or something.
a 30 amp junction is ok on a ring - 2.5mm T&E is rated to max 27amps clipped. Think about it.
I’ve got another video on socket mistakes covering rings and cable ratings. Thanks for watching!
I like soldering wires, of course this is not always practical, but the connection is really tight.
Good point, thanks for watching!
I once stayed in a flat where they charged a premium price for a property that was basically one huge fire hazard. One day the landlord accidentally let it slip that he just got his cousin to do all the wiring instead of an actual electrician, and it showed - one day my shower switch caught fire. When I opened it up, the copper was so bare that you couldn't even call it sleeving, it was more like a t-shirt for wires.
That’s terrible! Thanks for watching!
Dude to be honest... My grandfather made our house in the time of the war and he did all electricals on his own in our house. I doubt he (a butcher) knew that there were ratings on these at all. He used what he could get his hands on. Until the day he died he didn't allow anyone to dust off places where he made connections just to prove that he did a good job on those. And he did, 30 years and knock on the wood, the electrical is fantastic in our house..
Thank you for sharing that anecdote
It's interesting how locale influences what we consider safe. In North America, almost all connections are done by twisting wires together (and covering with wire nuts.) When I heard about British ring mains, my first thought was, "why aren't there more fires there?" Of course, your plug has a fuse, to compensate. When licensed electricians make twisted connections here (Canada) the resistance of the connections are lower than for Wago connectors (not that I would hesitate to use Wagos.)
Good points, thanks for watching!
Terminal strips has their uses, but a) I would never use one to connect AC in j-box, and b) if you do have to use one, it is best to go with beefiest, most expensive ones. I've had cheap ones break (one has to wonder what kind of crappy brass those were made of!). Spring connectors are excellent. The only problem is that while genuine WAGO are fine, most every other are not, unless you collect Chinese 222-series counterfeits.
Good point, thanks for watching!
Got to love it titled " for joining cables" and not a single cable in the picture lol😂😂😂
Hahaha very good point, thanks for watching!
I've seen "professional" electricians just twist live wires together, let alone earths. The rubbish you find above the pendant fittings in new houses is astonishing.
Thanks for watching Roger!
What's with using cable ties to make the wago box maintenance free? Once clicked down, they aren't going to open.
I agree it is strange, but it is written in the instructions. Can’t say I’ve ever bothered with it though. Thanks for watching!
It’s a quirk of the regs: once cable tied you then need a tool to access it (eg scissors). the need for a tool adds an extra step/layer of (access) protection.
Funny thing all the companies that crapped on wages are now changing their own fixtures to include basically a wage type retention system. I saw new Leviton plugs and switches that have them.
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The 30 A junction boxes _can_ be used on a 32A final ring circuit, but not a 32A radial. In fact a 20A junction can be used on a ring. A ring slits the current.
Rings don’t split the current evenly, you could in theory have a large ring with a socket close to the CU, pulling a large current, exceeding the 20a. Thanks for watching
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 2.5mm cable takes approx' 26A max. One socket near the CU drawing max current draws 13A. Two is 26A, the max current rating of the cable. That is 81% of the protection device which is 32A. So, not all that 26A will be drawn from one leg, L1, of the ring. For example, about 20% will be drawn from L2 which means just under 21 amps is drawn from L1. So the 26A max limit of the cable is not reached. It would need three sockets very near the CU to exceed the 26A max draw of the cable. The warmer the L1 leg of the cable the resistance rises, so more current will be drawn via the L2 leg automatically. Also if the first and second sockets are drawing 26A L1 will create resistance from the current draw of those two sockets, meaning current will come via L2 to the third socket. By the time there is any danger the 32A breaker would have tripped. An imbalance, can happen in a ring but it is a *very rare* event to the point it will cause a fire. But if maximum current drawing appliances are bunched near the CU creating concern, just fit the ring with sockets round robin, first socket on L1, second on L2, third on L1, etc. Or from the CU have 4mm cable to the first few heavy current drawing sockets, with 2.5mm for the rest. Take note of the professionals.
Wago is very nice. However, for the DIY'r, I still prefer the old fashioned wire nut. They are not idiot proof like the wago, but they are cheap and you don't need to have a case with 12 different styles on hand.
Thanks for watching!
Twisting. oof. I mean, I do join cables with a twist.... Then I SOLDER them, and usually heatshrink. but what cables do I join like that? honestly, probably the worst was an EBike's controller. The replacement controller wasn't for the same bike, and a connector on it was wired wrong, so I cut the wires and joined them to wire it the right way, and as said, twisted braided wires together and soldered with heatshrink.
Thanks for watching!
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 You're welcome. When it comes to wiring, I'm probably more old-school in that I usually use the screw terminals, or maybe a crimp. I also try to avoid joining if possible.
Wagos have revolutionised domestic electrical work
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02:48 you said "that is a connector not rated for a socket circuit"....it's a "PA 29" connector (it's written on the side of it), which means it can handle from 0.5 to 4 mm cable, and 24Amp 450V.... So I don't know what YOU need for a socket circuit, but for me this connector is twice above what's necessary for a socket circuit....HTH
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Damn didn't have any idea that these have ratings. But the point could be that i'm in the Netherlands. Voltage is always 220 to 230, and ampage is limited. Bit i used Wagos(non lever) in my shed where i renewed all electronics myself. It could handle my dad's 3500 watt angle grinder with ease. So maybe these are more consistent and stable in europe?
Also i believe those extension boxes are illegal here. At least, most opt to replace the entire cable before going to those, or put a box in the middle Also i believe that connecting ANY cables without a bigger box is illegal as well. So all boxes for connecting cables have multiple ports, have very specific certrificates and are a bit larger.
Interesting to know, thanks for watching!
Wow how did we ever connect anything safely before Wagos? Junction boxes when correctly installed are perfectly safe period. Check your electricity meter main tail connections when you get chance and tell me what you see? Shock horror screw terminals carefully designed to safely carry 100A plus!
I clearly say in the video the issue is people using screw terminals when not rated appropriately. Obviously terminals rated for 100a on a domestic incomer are not a problem. Thank you for watching.
Fair point, but as others have said on here, it has been common UK wiring practice to use the 30A junction box to break into a ring final circuit to feed a single spur for example. The alternative is to spur off the back of a socket on the ring. The junction box you show at 2 mins in has adequately sized terminals for the job. Other than that I agree with your remarks completely and will no doubt use Wago connectors at some stage in the near future 👍.
I guess you’re right, using a junction rated for 30a on a 32a mcb isn’t likely to be a big issue. Thanks, the wagos are great!
the 6 biggest mistakes are not using Wago connectors hand-orange-covering-eyesHe forgot to tell us about the sponsor 🤨who could it have been ☝👆
I wish i was sponsored hahaha
keep at it they will come@@TheDiligentDIYer1759
All electrical connectors have evolved for speed of install. I wouldn’t say they have improved mechanically or electrically. I still don’t fully trust wago style connectors, I guess time will tell. Certified nylon screw connectors will have the voltage and current rating moulded into the nylon with the data usually displayed at the end of the connector adjacent to the terminal screw. The voltage and current rating will be stamped onto alternate terminals respectively.
Interesting, Thanks for watching!
Where I live, probably every house has twisted connections and it's been like this from WWII. Nowadays I see these fancy connectors being used, and some old electricians still prefer twisting wires - they say it has more contact than wago. And these are professional electricians near retirement, so with lots of experience. In 40+ years I never heard that some house burned because of bad connections. With that said all this "don't twist wire" sound like a propaganda to me. My house is almost 100 years old and it has twisted connections for 60+ years (that I know of). Never had a problem.
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Electricity and DIY should never be in the same sentence. Don’t risk it ! If you have no choice TURN THE POWER OFF at the mains .
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the US are lower rated on the wago becasue they put the electric cables direclty in to the wall including clamps connectors and branchpoints and whatnot and the walls are in best case wood with insulation between worstcase literal paper....so absoluitly no heat allowed...while in europe they MUST be put into a dedicated box by regulation....
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In the US, junction boxes are required almost everywhere. No junctions without a junction box, and all junction boxes must be exposed.
the twist variant is really OMG & just 1 step away from squeezing a piece of metal into a live (substation) fuse holder under load using simple pliers (see the 43 minutes video from 2009 "Afganistan Elektriker" from the German state television )
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I would add that all connectors should be inside an enclosure. All connectors have there uses. I use them all, Wagos, terminal blocks etc. Depends on the situation. Using the terminal box connectors means that the cable is securely terminated as there is nowhere for the copper wire to escape to. As for taping over connectors...yuk. One way to set the place on fire. Self amalgamating tape is much better. Once applied, it never comes off - you need to use a tool, no matter how warm the place gets.
Good points, thanks for watching!
Luckily I live in a country where there are official rules for electrical installations. In other countries your not even allowed to change anything on the el.system unless you have a licence as an electrician. The only thing a person may do is connect a lamp.
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here's a tip for you, you're supposed to twist the copper wire in a hook, clockwise, before you insert it into a terminal block.
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Can you put a wagon in a wall
Do you mean a junction box? Best avoided if at all possible. If you do have to put one in a wall, it must be one that is specified as maintenance free. Thanks for watching!
soldering the joint the best way
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Junction boxes are always better than electrical tape... *But* if only I could put aside my strong mistrust of anything which bears a _UKCA_ mark... 🔌🔥😇
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We’re did sqish come from , squashed together was the term in my day
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Personally I prefer to use " connectors" only at the termination. ( no matter what method you use to spice or join a cable, The weak spot will always be this JOIN ) ! For a HIGH Current Loads it's better to use cable of the correct length than to attempt to extend it. ( All joins introduce resistance, or deteriorate over time, resistance= HEAT. ) Most " High Current" circuits ( in domestic situations ) will likely be such appliances as Water Heaters or Cookers, you certainly would be best advised not to attempt to join ( or spice into ) feed lines to these ...
Yep agreed, best to avoid joints other than in sockets or light switches/fittings for domestic. Thanks for watching!
Strip connectors... or chocolate blocks as they were nicknamed years ago, yeauch! I have admittedly used many but on low voltage signal wires and the number of them where the screws have failed is mind boggling. They are hardly mechanically sound in my experience, and therefor not electrically sound.
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5:27 cable needs to be further in on the right hand side.
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States Wago connectors are bad in thumbnail then proceeds to say use wago connectors...
It is subtle, but the cores are actually exposed coming out of the wago in the thumbnail, and outside of enclosure, so not okay. I do appreciate it could be considered click bait though. Thanks for watching!
Twisting is the best way to make a connection in my opinion, but only if they are done properly. What you showed on the video was one of the worst examples of a twisting I have ever seen, something like that would most likely catch fire. The reason for twisting being the best is becuase you have no intermediate piece of metal with different properties (eg.: thermal expansion, conductivity, etc.), and no spring contacts or screws that can loosen up overtime, and can bite into the cross sectional are of the wire (depending on the design of the terminal, if the screw is not serving part of conducting the electricity, it results in the loss of the wire's cross section). I've had bad experiences with Wago terminals, they can blow open if a short occurs, or if there is a large inrush, which is not a daily thing, but it can happen. (And no they weren't overloaded. This happened on a socket circuit in the hallway that had 16A breaker, and a vacuum cleaner plugged into it, and both live and neutral Wagos blew when I switched it on. The vacuum wasn't faulty, it just had about 22-25A of inrush.) Edit: It's even better, if a well twisted connection has a wire nut on it. That can stand anything.
This was a video about how not to do stuff, so i was going to show bad examples haha. I agree twisting done well is a good quality connection, but unnecessary with high quality connectors like wagos. Thanks for watching!
The caption says " bad worse danger ". Hmm.....so what are we left with?
No joints outside of accessible fittings is the ideal scenario really. Thanks for watching!
2:00 know what wouldn't be appropriate is using something like that for a shower circuit! Forget about outlets.
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