How Not to Pour Babbitt Bearings - How Babbitt / Friction Bearings Work | Iron Wolf Industrial
2017 ж. 6 Там.
34 793 Рет қаралды
Learn about how Babbitt bearings work, and see various parts of the pouring process. Babbitt doesn't always turn out perfect, but that's the beautiful nature of these bearings - they are dirt simple, and require nothing but oil. This hammer is a Little Giant 25lb Power Hammer, see previous videos for the restoration process.
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My Father in Law poured many a Babbitted Bearing while working for Ingersoll-Rand. This is the first video I've seen describing what he actually did. Thank you.
Thank you for the clear explanation and great video. I had never even heard of Babbit bearings until today. I just found your channel, and I'm looking forward to seeing your other videos.
In addition to aluminum (for use as a setup shim), you can use a little chunk of Babbitt metal. The cool thing about this is you can "tune" it for proper clearance by tapping it flatter with a hammer.
Took me five videos and too many articles to finally learn what babbitt actually does. Thank you for your great, understandable, video.
I poured a many bearings with babbitt. Nice to see someone else work with this old craft. Keep up the great work !!
This man speaks in ALL CAPS
This guy's got a golden voice and he doesn't even know it.
Omg I love his voice :D
Thank you for the video. I have watch a lot of video's on how to do this and yours is the best.
Good stuff. Thanks.
Great explanation
Thank you. still looking for a little giant to restore but you videos will help in the future.
had a couple old timer friends explaining how they used to make and use these at power plants in years past
Thank you for the info! I always wondered why someone would use them.
I was wondering about the spacers, thought maybe a hard wearing timber like lignum vitae, never thought of aluminum.
Exactly what I needed, thanks!
thank you! Very informative! :)
Thank you so much for making this. I have a wisconsin 2 cylinder with a rod knock. I saw Shims under the rod caps. I'm going to remove those and see how itsounds.
Is the bearing just the layer of tin and antimony and copper or is it the whole thing, the steel outer peace as well?
Great info. Thank you.
Hi i had one doubt, does oil film thickness effect babbitt
Ages ago, I worked as an electrician for a milling company and their machinist, Vince, was pouring a babbitt bearing while I was there, and I got to watch the process while he explained what he was doing. Keep in mind that this has been 40+ years ago, so any mistakes in my recollection can be explained by my two-step memory (two steps and I've forgotten what I was doing). 1) The way that he did it was to remove the old bearing and clean up the shaft of any burrs. 2) He then dialed in the shaft so that it was perfectly aligned prior to the pour. 3) He packed the bearing using the same putty as you did, and heated up the bearing and shaft to prevent a steam explosion. Maybe heated it up first, I don't know. 4) Vince did his pour with the top bearing caps mounted (poured the entire bearing with one pour through the oiler hole). 5) Using a kerfing saw (I presume) he cut the babbitt where the top and bottom halves met. He may have disassembled the bearing to drill the oiler hole, or left it on and drilled it, I can't say for sure. I can see a few advantages to Vince's way of pouring a bearing: By aligning the shaft externally, he avoided the need for the aluminum block. By bolting the two halves together first, the bearing shell thickness was exactly the proper size for that bearing. That allowed him to tighten the bearing cap down fully without worrying about squeezing the shaft too tightly. Any shims that he planned on using (to take up wear) I suspect that he had installed before the pour. Edit: How I remember it being poured: kzhead.info/sun/qKuOe5GfpXptdYU/bejne.html
Very interesting. Thank you for the information! I've never done it in one step, but I'd be curious to give it a try.
Omg, thanks😃! You may have just saved my bacon, and my old Atlas 🤣. Noticed quite a bit of slop in my spindle (well, my lathe's spindle🤣) and wasn't sure if I could remove any of those shims or not. I was gonna try anyways but now I'm a little more confident about it. So thanks!
What model Atlas lathe do you have? I have a 9" that I'm rebuilding with babbitt bearings.
@@ahorsenamedoaks1377 I've got a 1936 Atlas 10-D (10x24). I never did remove any shims although my spindle nut needed a little tightening. Just finger tight mind you 😊.
What is your compound to plug the sides, Should I hand saw an aluminium sheet and use instead.
Great video, very informative! I’ve often looked at great older machines with babbitt bearings and wondered why. I still wonder a bit. Are there (generally) speed limits on rotation - do babbitt bearings match the speed of, say, roller bearings or are more for slower speed applications? What about loads such as vertical load (like heavy equipment), or higher torsional loads? Curious - one application where I see these bearings frequently is on older, large-scale woodworking equipment, often that has outlived one or more shops…..
Hello my friend, I would like to ask a question related to Babbitt. I have a broken Cylinder head of a 600cc Kawasaki single cylinder bike. It is broken in sense of a worn out camshaft column bearing. The Cam is running directly in the aluminium of the cylinder head. Now as the aluminium bearing is worn out i wonder if I should make an experiment out of it and fill up the scratches either with aluminium by tig welding it (needs to be bored and ground afterwards) or I could try to fill it with solder or babbitt or...whatever might work the best and scrape or grind off, whats too much on it. I guess i can slightly grind down the burr so ill come down to the original bearing surface and "just" need to fill up the deeper scratches. The original bearing surface is still intact in a few areas, so that could be my guide to grind down the filling material like the babbit for example. I didnt plan this to the end yet but instead of having it rebuilt by a machine shop I would be willing to give it a try on my own. The question is, whether i can apply very thin layers of babbitt or is it possible that the babbit will come loose by adding too little material? The babbit bearings i usually see here on youtube look quite thick as yours in the video. So im worried about a proper bond to the aluminium then because my spots of babbitt might be less than half a millimeter thick or less than 20 thou. In addition it will be just single spots or lines to fill up deep scratches. Do you have any ideas if that might work? Thanks in advance and greetings from Germany.
Nice video - thanks! How do you pour the top bearing?
That would be good
You should have used a babbitt shim, or pulled out the spacer.
Where did you find your Babborite?
Just for future reference, I did a search to find this, but the spelling got me nothing. Lateral thinking, tho: ask for what you’re looking for. This search term found lots of ideas: ‘Babbitt pouring compound’ found Kapp HotDam, Rotometals products, etc.
They last somewhere between 100 hours and 100 years.
if used right it runs on the oil and not the babbitt if your lucky
That is correct!