How To: Foil Casting Small Items Emblems and Scripts
2023 ж. 19 Жел.
91 785 Рет қаралды
Foil Casting. It's easier than you think. Here we are doing some for my AMT 1972 Duster project and a few others for example. Follow along on this how to:
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it's very hard to innovate these days because so many talented people post videos. You my young friend have shown me something I've never seen before thank you
Thank you very much!
Great tutorial! That is really an interesting way to do it. I can see were that might be perfect for interior pieces also, like window winders. So often allot of the kits you can barely see the winders and handles. The tape idea to glue the emblem on the side is genius!
That's a great idea! Never tried it on interior parts!
Genius! I sanded the badges off an amt large scale Cobra. Been wracking my brain on how to replicate. Thank you my good sir.
Glad I could help!
An interesting concept! 👍 One tool I use for cutting/trimming decals is a pair of small manicure scizzors.
I’m not allowed near my wife’s makeup kit!
@@TheMuscleCarModelerSmall crochet scissors.
You just saved my project!! I got very lucky, and bought a Johan 1970 442. This kit is very expensive ( around 160) and because it's a older Johan,...it does have its faults. Not enough detail, molded in seats and suspension, as well as the hood from a Cutlass S and not a 442! I just bought the retooled Revel 71 442 kit for parts, but the front hood tooth between the grill had a 442 emblem on that panel and the 71 has an Oldsmobile emblem! The 71 does come with a decal that looks nice, but nowhere near as realistic as doing it your way!! Thank you so much,...you just earned a subscriber!
Thank you! I have a few other JoHan olds 442 that I built on this Channel. You may want to search for them.
Model car garage has a photo etch set for the Revell kit that also comes with the different grills, and all kinds of other goodies that you might want for the Johan kit. Plus the AMT 69 442 chassis with the posable front wheels, fits about perfectly underneath the Johan body. The new Revell kit has an excellent chassis too.
I almost didn't watch this because i knew the old way of doing this, using plastic melted with glue. First you had to cut up sprue pieces, melt them in glue to the perfect consistency, then pray that the foil didn't bend while trying to glob that into the foil. I think I'm gonna like this way a whole lot better!! Thank you Ralph!
Thank you. Yes the old way you described seems like a lot of work.
@@TheMuscleCarModeler it was a lot of work especially since it only worked about 25% of the time. Maybe part was me because I thought I was supposed to take it out of the foil? Last time I tried it was like 15 yrs ago. I will certainly try you method!
I leave it in the foil and glue it on as is. My success rate is much higher now, but I still make extras.
I already figured this out years ago. I'm glad to see that someone else did too. I only wish that I knew about the super glue and aluminum trick way back when I first started building models. Now I wish I could plate chrome parts. That would be the only part of my repertoire that I don't yet have for my skill set. I make my own models and parts but anyone can do that now especially with the advent of 3D printing machines. This makes silicone moulds and polyurethane resin almost obsolete! The aluminum trick also works if you want to plate parts - spray adhesive 3M brand works best on foil. I mould my trim first then spray it and apply it to the part. Or I spray the foil then mould it to the part and trim as you would with Chrome Foil brand but with better adhesion and a shinier more chrome like appearance. Thank you for sharing this for those who didn't or still don't know how to do this.
Thank you for your input!
Why moony, haven't you heard of the chrome sprays??? Been experimenting with them and many are so close that one can't tell the difference. Not quite as durable but if it's just a display model, not to be handled that is, they're great. Denny G, Sandwich, IL
incredible tip Raoul! I will definitely try this. Thank you for sharing this wonderful tip with the community.
Thanks!
Wholly cow! Batman, iv never gotten into this side of model kit building. But as im sitting here, i just realized that this sort of thing wil probably work great for making castings for Sci-fi model ship typ stuff. Especially when all of those old plastic army and crazy cheap toys are just sitting on the shelves at the second hand stores. Now im pretty sure that i could get into that. A big thanks.
You are welcome!
Great tutorial. Love all your old school methods for trouble shooting & problem solving. Thanks! Merry Christmas 🎄🎄
Thank you!
Very nice work! One thing that you could add is burnishing with graphite. I have seen other builders use it on chrome and was really impressed with the final product.
Thanks for the info! I have not tried that before.
That’s fantastic! I’ve done this before and also used black sealant as a mould and melted plastic into glue poured into it. But using sellotape as a handle and a means of placing emblems go attach them is a great idea. Thank you 👍👍👍
Cool. It’s funny but I didn’t think too much about the tape portion of this video but that has gotten just as much feedback as the actual foiling!
I'm not yet a subscriber so I don't know if you will see this but I had to write. This tip on casting side marker lights was awesome I stumbled on it the other night. I have a replica Camaro that was completely stalled because I sanded off the marker lights and didn't know what I was going to do.This tip is priceless Thank you Thank you so much for sharing
So glad that this will help you!
Brilliant! never imagined this could be done. Congratulations and thanks for sharing your tips and the video
My pleasure!
Very nice tip. Definitely something I can and will use. Merry Christmas to you and yours. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
This was some cool info. I can see this being very useful for various projects. Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
I always did wonder how this was accomplished. You do make it look easy, but now I'm not afraid of screwing up a vintage car trying it. Thank you! I'm now subscribed...
Thanks. Making the emblems is pretty easy and no harm is done to the body you are taking the foil molds from. Hard part is not damaging them when trimming or crushing them. But if you do, making extras is easy and the tape method of attaching them really helps. Using the tape the way I do really limits the damage and helps locate them before gluing.
Thank you for sharing this brilliant idea.I did a little test the other day and it works brilliantly,although mine was fumbled lol.Practice makes perfect.
Fantastic! Thanks!
You Are Awesomely Good!!!- No Annoying Background Music!!:):)...You Speak Very Very Clearly!!...Your Close Ups Are Much, Much Better Than Any Other Modelers On You Tube, Facebook!!..Etc, Etc, Etc!!...Your ONE AWESOMELY AMAZING CAR MODELLER!!..
Thanks! I’m figuring out the camera settings on my iPhone!
@@TheMuscleCarModeler Been There, Done That & Still There's Soooo Much More To Learn
Very good video informing us with the steps and problems, A real time saver. Thank you so much
Glad it was helpful!
WOW! What an absolute LEGEND tip! Thank thank THANK YOU 🙏🏻!!!
Many thanks!
Really great video! I wondered how the really good models have these accents done. (Not with a paint brush!) amazing. Thanks for posting!
You're very welcome!
Thanks for the great demonstration and congrats on the 10K!
Thank you very much!
That is such a great tip/trick! Thank you for showing us how to do that. I'd like to recommend to you, a lighted magnifying headband. It would really help with fine details.
I may get one!
I have been modeling for the greater part of 40 years. I came across this method at one time long ago and tried it. I FAILED miserably. THIS PROCESS is a GAME CHANGER. I am liking and saving this for later. Even earned a Subscribe. I will be using this in the near future and may try metal foil for some really intricate emblems. Who knows. Thank you very much for sharing this.
Glad I could help!
Great technique. Good details without boring us. Thanks.
Glad you liked it! Thank you!
What a wonderful tutorial! Thanks for sharing this technique. 😀👍🏻
You’re welcome!
Wow Ralph awesome tutorial.. Came and a good time too. I have a 66 Fairlane that needs script on the trunk,(ebay glue bomb) that has been sanded off mostly and I have a new in the kit body and this trick is just what I need! Thanks! 👍😁 Yes U have BMF the script before painting that is a cool trick too... Lol Here is a tip I seen somewhere. Take a pop bottle cap and fill the bottom full of candle wax, then put your super glue on that and it will last almost a 1/2 hour or so. When glue is dry, pop out the dries super glue re-flow the wax and your ready for the next time. Works great for long gluing sessions... LLAP 🖖
Thank you! Great timing!
Excellent tutorial. Thank you for sharing this. I will definitely be trying this. I will use the super glue method but I want to experiment with uv resin as well.
Thanks!
New to the hobby Ralph, rather back at it. 82 now and the last plastic model I built was way back about 1954 or 55. I'm picking up lots of new ideas and learning about new materials to work with, i.e. paints, glues, photo etched parts, etc. Have been disappointed in several models I've built this winter because of the molded in emblems, door handles, etc. After watching this video.....the this thought came to me---Oh yeah dumb ars.....now why didn't you think of that. Great tip, thanks, makes complete sense, I'm sure I'll be using it a lot in the future. Only thing I had doubts about is how well the CA plug is gonna stick to the aluminum foil. I'm envisioning it falling out about the time you lay it up in place or the foil coming with the tape when you pull the tape away after it sets. But....some experimenting will answer that question I'm sure. Thanks again for the tip. Denny G, Sandwich, IL
Welcome back! Enjoy your builds and have fun!
Awesome Tutorial Raul 🏆🏆🏆 Thanks For Sharing n Have a Blessed Humpday 🤗 Gary.
Thank you! You too!
Very interesting technique! love it. Thanks for sharing!
You are so welcome!
Wow that’s so cool. Now I need to find something to foil cast! Great tutorial!!!😊
Thanks so much! 😊
Excellent tip. Very cool idea. Thanks for sharing. I’m going to try it out sometime.
Have fun! Thanks!
DUDE!🤯🤯🤯. Thank you. Great tutorial, enjoyed so much. Awesome
Glad it helped!
A very well done tutorial. Great information. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice work! Excellent idea, I’m using it soon. 😊
Go for it!
This is great! Thank you for sharing.
My pleasure!
That is brilliant… will have to try that sometime. Thx 👍
No problem 👍
Incredibly cool 😎 Very well done,great video👍
Thank you 👍
Wow..!!! What a great tip..!!! Thank you so much. I will definitely pass this on to others..!!! :)
Thanks!
Great tutorial! I've done this before but used 5min epoxy (doesn't work well). This is the way to go. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. That’s part of it. You have to give the super glue plenty of time to fully harden.
Excellent tutorial! Thanks.
You're welcome!
Thats a great tip got to try that myself ! Thanks for sharing.
Any time!
That’s a great tip. Thanks for sharing. We all just got smarter!
Glad it was helpful!
I clearcoated an AMT 340 Duster this evening. Guess what I forgot to paint? Yeah, mirrors. 😂 Nice informative video. I will give this a try.
Nice work! Maybe I jinxed you!
Thanks Raoul. I've done this with 5 minute epoxy, but this might work better. Going to try this method on a '60 Edsel quarter panel lettering. BTW that Javelin is awesome!
Good luck! I restored a 60 Edsel also but before I got to that point. Another rebuilder with a better body came my way!
Thanks for sharing! That's good to know, since aluminium tape can be a pain in the ass to work with on something like that.
Thank you!
Very informative, thank you for sharing this.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for sharing this valuable tip!!! I will definitely have to try this Merry Christmas TCWags
Happy holidays! Thanks you!
That’s a really cool tip! Thanks for sharing
You bet!
Pretty cool I will try this myself... I use to use the RTV method to make molds of the scripts and use styrene sprue glue or two part epoxy to make the script.
Interesting. Never tried that one.
Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
You’re welcome 😊
Sir ... Ingenious Technique Idea to say the least !!! If i may , Tamiya have small cotton buds in a few varities with taper points that are somewhat wound tighter than the mainstay ' Q tip ' varient . One last comment is i can see where your technique could be applied in many applications out there for similar purposes other than the model building craft . Thanx a Mint !!!
Sounds great! Thanks!
Wow what a great job and great tip,thanks a lot,gonna give it a try
Have fun!
Love this technique! Thank you for sharing. Maybe do a short on this and see how many views you get!
Thanks!
Impressive job! 😎
Thanks!
Thank you for sharing this, Yes I also forget little part's too sometimes. But the tip's you shared might help thank's
Glad it was helpful! Thanks!
You are more then welcome, Yeah it was a great help @@TheMuscleCarModeler
Cool tutorial. I thought about doing this with UV resin. Very cool, thx for sharing.
Go for it!
Appreciate the knowledge!
Any time!
Really good tutorial!
Thanks!
remarkable. Thanks for the tutorial.
You're welcome!
What a great idea wow!!..Thank you sir
You're welcome!
Nice Tutorial Thanks for sharing.
Thank you too
Thank you Raoul this is gonna be helpful for a 70 dart swinger I'm gonna be building with a hellcat engine
Sounds like a cool project! Have you seen these? icemancollections.com/products/set-of-chrome-hellcat-demon-scat-pack-supercharged-decals-badges
Fantastic tip mate 👍🇬🇧👌
Thanks !
Excellent idea! Thanks you.
You are welcome!
It's really an excellent trick !
Thanks!
An interesting idea. Something to experiment with. I will see how it goes using artist blending stumps, rather than a toothpick. Since I do drawings, I already have a variety of sizes, and point types.probably less likely to poke through the foil. Will also check out using the moldable kneadded rubber erasers for some of the detail molding.
Thanks. That sounds great.
That chrome film from testors was the the stuff back in the 90’s 00’s. My brother would use it wisely and cut what he needed so it could last longer
I had used some of that. But that is not what this video is about.
Very novel & innovative idea 👍✔️
Thanks a lot 😊
Just a tip that may help with this. I would recommend trying 3M "magic tape" instead of cellotape. Magic tape is frosted, sticks well but easy to peel away and it doesso super clean.
Thanks. I may give that a try.
Will definitely have to try it could possibly save a build that dont have great definition thanks
No problem 👍 Hope it works for you!
Great idea ... thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
I’m really impressed with the embossing method of copying the patterns. I’m just thinking if you wanted an identical copy of the pattern that you didn’t want in ‘chrome’, you could dissolve the aluminium foil away in caustic soda, leaving a perfect impression of your part in superglue.
Interesting.
That's pretty cool. I'm too impatient for this kind of work though. I usually just use a Molotow chrome pen for metal/chrome details. It works quite nicely.
Thanks. But this is for transferring emblems from one car body to another.
For the white glue, you can also use Roman Seam Repair, comes in a white tube, blue lettering, in the wallpaper department of Home Depot, Lowes, etc. It dries clear, tacks up quickly, has a slight flex, and sticks to plastics well. I use it for details on model railroad locomotives and other detailing. Also use it for windows on passenger cars, buildings. It won't fog clear styrene like plastic glue will do. Try it, you can get a very large tube for less cost per oz.
Interesting. Thanks!
Very cool, I’ll try this!!
Thanks.
Great tutorial!!!!!
Thank you!
Great tips on how to do this. I was wanting to put the camaro logo on the sides of the 1/12 camaro i'm doing, cause the wide body kit didn't have the camaro logos on the sides of the finders by the doors.
Go for it! Should work perfect for that!
Interesting way to do casting,i have used Bmf,superglue and 5minute epoxy to cast scripts it's much slower but it works pretty good.
Thank you!
thanks so much for the great video
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great tip thanks for sharing
No problem 👍
You can use the paper stick of a q tip if you cut off the cotton as a burnishing tool. It's harder than the cotton but softer than a toothpick and you have it on hand. Cut it at an angle to get in tighter places like lettering and/or soften it up.
Thanks! I may try that.
Use CA glue debonder with a microbrush to remove unwanted glue. It will clean up well and you won't have to deal with polishing out scratches from sanding.
I’ll have to try that. Thanks!
I remember used to doing this when I was a kid with tin foil. :)
I remember playing with foil on some hot wheels cars.
Very helpful way to detail models. Can you tell me with the script "Duster".....you can apply this to model slightly trimmed, but still with a bit of foil around the emblem.......Once it sets do you clean more of the overage foil away? Also when you do the final paint job , do you use solvent to clean the raised emblem?
Thanks. I try and get it as close to trimmed as possible. I try not to trim it after it is attached to the model.
Thank you!!!!! great tip
You are so welcome!
Great tip. I guess you could use clear resin and a UV lite to cure the imprint.
Possibly.
Instead of a q -tip, use a soft eraser to press the foil down. You'll get a much smoother print and it'll get all the detail. Then take a small piece of balsa and super glue or epoxy it over the foil.
That last part makes no scents as the foil is becoming the new emblem.
#TheMuscleCarModeler .Excellent tip for a guy like me, who is just starting out. Thanks for sharing... new follower from Brazil @Hotz
Welcome aboard!
Nice tutorial, thanks. Have you ever tried Bamboo toothpicks from Japan? They have super fine tips and strong.
Thanks! No I have not.
Blinkers i want make from resin in nice red or orange color, but this emblemat is amazing idea i want to make it like you! i need it for my GTX plymmouth
You can do it!
@@TheMuscleCarModeler hey man i just tried it. Its going well. Its so detailed but my glue get out but it was revell... today im geting super glue
This is a great tip, thank you. And the tape/super glue trick is next level! BTW, your camera didn't go out of focus at all while you were moving the model in and out. What camera are you using?
My phone! Apple iPhone 14 Pro. But learning the setting. Found a way to set to macro and lock while filming so it never leaves but you can’t be to far away as the background will get blurry. Some videos of mine do blur but that was before I learned how to do that or forgot to lock the setting.
That is awesome! I wish I had came across this before I did my Chevelle SS. I had SO much trouble with getting my paint to do right that I actually wore down the Super Sport and crossed flags that I had to buy decals to do em, which really didn’t come out good at all. Thanks for the schooling for future reference. I hope you don’t mind my asking, as I have recently retired and am trying to get back in to modeling. Cragar mags are my favorites, and I have found them on line, however I can’t find any chromed. Did you order those or were they from another kit. And if you know where to find them, would you please be so kind as to enlighten me? Thank you in advance.
Thank you. The Crager wheels I used came out of my parts stash. I don’t remember what kit they came from. I’m sure it’s an older issue of something I had many years ago.
Thanks, interesting
Thank you!
Nice method. Looking at this, I'm thinking it probably wouldn't hurt to dry brush the foil emblems with chrome silver enamel (on the high spots of the lettering to create contrast and a more "readable" end product). I haven't tried it yet so I might be talking out my arse.
Thanks. That would work also one you have them on the model that you are moving them to.
This is immensely interesting! Thanks! For that matter, your foil casting technique would be applicable a wide assortment of surface features, as well. In building AMT’s 1:25th-scale plastic model kit of the Ford 900 Cabover Stake-bed Truck, I wanted to age it to some extent-rusting, staining, fading, weathering, missing pieces, etc.-without making it a wreck. As part of this effort, I also removed the raised letter “R” in the manufacturer’s name from the very front, above the grille, and I used a tiny drill bit to represent the two resultant holes. I had wanted to have the fallen piece of metal perhaps just to have slipped out of place (I also would have had to apply a chrome finish), though I then had no idea how to replicate it. Your process gives us that. At round 25:00 or 26:00, in watching your technique in progress, I wonder about something: are you using gel cyanoacrylate (gap-filling super glue)? Would the regular cyanoacrylate work, too? It would set faster, so it likely would cure faster. I ask because you actually are using the method, so you would know. Also, if I understand correctly, cyanoacrylate when dry and cured is transparent or translucent, which might lend itself to creating lights (e.g., turn signals, markers) that one in theory could illuminate with tiny LEDs (the wiring would look like that on the actual vehicle).
Thanks. I just use regular super glue liquid so it levels better. It does dry clear and may work as a Lense, but you may have to do it in thin layers. If it is too thick, it tends to bubble a bit and fog/frost.
Will this also work with doing side molding, to add to another kit?
Possibly but long moldings may take some extra care not to damage them. I have not tried anything past an inch long.
Hey Ralph, couldn't you use Elmer's glue in casting the parts and let it dry good before painting it? Lmk
I don’t think Elmer’s glue will work on this but have not tried it.